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View Full Version : Need Help! which to choose or not to choose in 3d printer a gentle prod for direction needed



curiosity22
07-29-2017, 09:34 PM
Hey G'day people,

Ok I am not new to CnC I have built my own after having purchased a kit and finding out the things I didn't want and the things I did want. Once I found out what I wanted my build was relatively easy.

But but but,,,,, I wanted to make a particular stirling hot air engine and just fell over by chance on an article.. as per link for a 3d printed hot air engine... yup I'd never seen one before so I purchased the plans ahead of a 3d printer as I can always use the same plans for my CnC anyways.

Reprap-Windturbine: Stirling (http://www.reprap-windturbine.com/index.php?id=16&L=1)

So I have no idea if spending $300 gets you nothing or $1000 is the same as spending $300..
I asked the seller of the stirling plans what type of 3d printer he used and he said a 3d prusa.. means absolutely nothing to me atm.. so Dr Google to the rescue points to eBay and we have the following..

2017 3D DIY Upgraded Full Quality High Precision Reprap Prusa i3 DIY 3d Printer | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2017-3D-DIY-Upgraded-Full-Quality-High-Precision-Reprap-Prusa-i3-DIY-3d-Printer/192187557461)

and another similar (to me they look the same)

Print 6 materials Geeetech Reprap Prusa I3 Pro X 3D Printer MK8 shipped from AU (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Print-6-materials-Geeetech-Reprap-Prusa-I3-Pro-X-3D-Printer-MK8-shipped-from-AU-/331854774985?epid=1592558506&hash=item4d441602c9:g:dDQAAOSwqrtWofgz)

the above is used by some to print R/C planes..

Before I go building one myself from scratch or purchasing one for bigger $$$ are those two printers good enough to do the job of printing that Stirling Engine.

The thing that killed me when I bought my first CnC kit was it was terribly slow, a job which now takes me 3/4 hours to carve was 12 hours.... so my question is how Fast or Slow are these 3d printers..

If printing that Stirling Engine is a 20 hour job Im already not interested and would want to invest in something quicker. If the resolution of the above printers is the print looks like a 150 year old wrinkled skin Im also not interested.
I understand and have seen High Resolution printers in the many thousands... I'm not after perfect more to the point looking for something Reasonable and not aww gawwwd that looks orible for the first comment :)..

I nearly dipped in for a liquid resin 3d printer which was selling for 1/3 its retail price... I went cold when I spoke to the guy selling ... Printing was High Res .. tick... Printing was abysmally slow XXX ... It used proprietary cartridges for the resin with a chip of somesort cost of cartridges was XXXX so that went of the shelf quickly.

In Short is there any reason why I wouldn't/shouldn't buy one of those printers considering the cost is pretty minimal and would they do the job..

Once I have one I guess the rest will come..

Cheers and avagreatday from the colonies downunder..

Steve

magicniner
08-19-2017, 05:07 PM
Make sure whatever you buy you can easily obtain spares for, if the main board is some trick, slick bespoke number from some Shenzhen outfit you'll struggle to replace it when it dies,

- Nick

underthetire
08-19-2017, 11:20 PM
Try to find something you can enclose. Makes a big difference on large abs parts.

Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk

A_Camera
10-13-2017, 03:51 AM
I have no idea if this printer can print with high enough accuracy for that sort of work, but I bought this one:

Duty free Geeetech Acrylic Reprap Prusa I3 Pro B 3D imprimante MK8 LCD2004 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Duty-free-Geeetech-Acrylic-Reprap-Prusa-I3-Pro-B-3D-imprimante-MK8-LCD2004/231911254318?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)

Just received and don't have enough time right now, so I build it slowly. So far I am surprised by how well made it seems to be for that price. Everything arrived well packed, parts in individual small plastic zip-bags and all that, a complete parts list with pictures to identify each part but ZERO building instructions, so if you buy a kit similar to this, make sure you have the skills to build it or get good support. However, even if it seems much better than some YouTube video bloggers claim, I will make some improvements as I am building because it may be necessary to get good printing results.

One thing is sure, whatever printer you buy, you must expect VERY long hours if you want to print something similar to that toy turbine. If 20 hours printing jobs scare you away then spend money on some other hobbies, because large parts require long time, regardless of printer. Also, whatever you buy, make sure you run it in a well ventilated area. I'd also recommend some sort of encapsulation, even though many people don't care about that.

curiosity22
10-13-2017, 07:39 AM
I ended up buying a Tevo Tarantula which is pretty much a prusha i3, I added the second stepper.. put in a E3D V6 the original hot head is rubbish, also got a volcano head to try and print quicker with some larger 1.2 nozzles, will be fun trying. Plenty of spare nozzles.. Also upgraded the Y added a linear rail - thinking about adding linear rail for the X as well. Soon as I added linear rail for the Y... the prints were at least 40% better...
Got some various filaments ABS as well as PLA wood clear and some other colours.

So far so good... ABS seems to be a lot easier to work with, PLA is not my favorite, may try some Pet G as well..

Finished the parts needed to build a sterling engine now I just need to put it together, all up some 20 odd hours of printing.

Although its fun I think I will put it aside for an SLA printer, I've had the chance now to see what it is that I like and dislike, and I definitely want the higher resolution prints. Having said that I have calibrated my printer and it is giving me some amazing finishes...

magicniner
10-15-2017, 04:42 PM
Before I go building one myself from scratch or purchasing one for bigger $$$ are those two printers good enough to do the job of printing that Stirling Engine.

The thing that killed me when I bought my first CnC kit was it was terribly slow, a job which now takes me 3/4 hours to carve was 12 hours.... so my question is how Fast or Slow are these 3d printers..


Printing speed is usually limited by the material being printed, faster machines can make non-printing moves faster but most printers can move too fast for most materials whilst printing,

- Nick

curiosity22
10-15-2017, 09:54 PM
Printing speed is usually limited by the material being printed, faster machines can make non-printing moves faster but most printers can move too fast for most materials whilst printing,

- Nick

I've notice, I have bought myself some wood filament to try out. Working with wood I have a decent idea of what wood looks like and the wood filament leaves a lot to be desired... it also requires slow printing.

The best material I have found which you can work with at a decent speed is ABS... I haven't tried any of the PetG product but I will soon enough. Having said that working with ABS not all hairspray is good hairspray... ABS of course having an issue with corners warping my hot bed will only do 100deg C. I use CEDEL hairspray... that seems to stick the best and is most glue in it.

I have made a batch of ABS glue using acetone I will try that next..

But I digress... my Stirling engine cost me over 26 hours of printing over several days which I guess isn't so bad...

I have seen that TEVO have introduced a new DLP printer selling for under $500 US the print area is small but for the price I may give one of those a shot as well.,

Cheers and thanks for the reply

Steve

A_Camera
10-16-2017, 05:07 AM
I ended up buying a Tevo Tarantula which is pretty much a prusha i3, I added the second stepper.. put in a E3D V6 the original hot head is rubbish, also got a volcano head to try and print quicker with some larger 1.2 nozzles, will be fun trying. Plenty of spare nozzles.. Also upgraded the Y added a linear rail - thinking about adding linear rail for the X as well. Soon as I added linear rail for the Y... the prints were at least 40% better...
Got some various filaments ABS as well as PLA wood clear and some other colours.

So far so good... ABS seems to be a lot easier to work with, PLA is not my favorite, may try some Pet G as well..

Finished the parts needed to build a sterling engine now I just need to put it together, all up some 20 odd hours of printing.

Although its fun I think I will put it aside for an SLA printer, I've had the chance now to see what it is that I like and dislike, and I definitely want the higher resolution prints. Having said that I have calibrated my printer and it is giving me some amazing finishes...

I looked at the Tevo Tarantula and must say it's a strange design. Looks like the print bed is sliding in the middle only, which can cause unbalance in some cases, especially when asymmetrical parts are printed. I also disliked that it only had one Z screw. Anyway, those, plus the fact that the acrylic parts seemed a bit weak and the price a bit high made me decide for a more traditional design.

My "plastic fantastic" printer is now almost ready, and I must say I am pretty impressed with the quality so far. I think they have upgraded this several times, since even the instruction video shows a different version which is not as good design as the one delivered to me. For example, in several clips of the instruction video they are mention that "if the hole is too small, you have to use the file to trim it" and they use the file because some parts don't fit. I have received the file also, but not needed to use it on any of parts, and I have assembled everything except the hotend and two plastic parts. Anyway, in a few days time I'll do my first test print and will see how it will turn out.

BTW, while installing the heat bed, I decided to upgrade mine to one I had already, which is a much better, aluminum bed. It is totally flat, as opposed to the one delivered, which was a bit warped. Contacted the seller and he will send me a new one, together with everything which is not in good condition. At least he made a promise, but to be honest, I think I believe he will send me the parts.

curiosity22
10-16-2017, 07:34 AM
Knowing what I know now I agree with what your saying. Though adding the extra Z screw wasnt an issue they actually have an upgrade kit for it.. Buying a linear rail for the Y resolved a ton of issues and its a very cheap upgrade..
CNC Part MR12 12mm Linear Rail Guide MGN12 Length 500mm With Mini MGN12H Block | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CNC-Part-MR12-12mm-Linear-Rail-Guide-MGN12-Length-500mm-With-Mini-MGN12H-Block-/191981940757)

cheers,
Steve