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View Full Version : My first CNC mill on the way : )))))



kayakman
03-10-2004, 04:32 AM
Hi all.
)I have just sent my dwg file to the watterjetcuting firm to to cutted. It is a clone of the Zoltar but much larger and with real high quality linear bearings from INA. I have settled for bearings with carriage wheels as they is supposed to be very resistant for dust and particles.

I will upload a pic of the parts to be cut but I cant upload the picture on the site. Any suggestions? I have attached it thou.

I have three steppermotors at home which I think could be used and they are of the bipolar type. Anyone have any suggestions for which controller I should use. I wan´t one with endswitches and homeswitches and preferably an emergancy cutof switch.

I was thinking of using Master5 NC program. I thiunk it works with step dir method.

Best regards / Anders Molin

kayakman
03-10-2004, 04:37 AM
Here is a pic on the linear bearings I will use

pack rat
03-10-2004, 07:57 AM
More information on the motor is needed. In my book there are only two controllers for small steppers Xylotex, and large motors with Gecko drives.

Mr.Chips
03-10-2004, 08:20 AM
Anders,
What's the manuf of the linear bearings?

Nice going, keep the photos comming.
Hager

kayakman
03-10-2004, 10:18 AM
The manufacturer of the linear bearings is INA-Schaeffler KG.

http://www.ina.de/

This type of linear bearings are suposed to be more resistant to dust and particles than ordianry linear bearings.

BTW they are not "to" expensive.


Best regards / Anders Molin

Ps! I will keep the photos coming!:rainfro:

mwalach
03-10-2004, 07:42 PM
I am using master 5 with my machine. I like it so far. Very easy to use.

Here is my site with pics and plans for my machine.

http://members.cox.net/walachcnc

Mike

High Seas
03-11-2004, 07:47 AM
kayakman -- Anders, an Oversize Zoltar - sounds neat - what will be the working space?

mwalach - Mike, Nice web page - and how very kind of you to hang all that good info on it too! Plans and details that others charge for - Thanks Heaps!
Is your scheme to write some software and "small charge" for that? The simple and clean interface you have on the site looks interesting!
:cheers: Jim

mwalach
03-11-2004, 05:22 PM
Everything on my site is free. I am a teacher, and started studing stepper motors and programming on my own a few years back. I always thought it would be cool to have a computer control for a dremel tool. I knew a little about CNC, but not much. The school I teach at bought a CNC router system for the wood shop. It does very cool things and I was instantly impressed. However...It cost $15,000!! But I was convinced I could build one...cheaper. I started to study programming the parallel port and surfed theb for info on cnc and discovered this "underground world" of CNC hobbiest. Lots of people had pics of there machines but no one was "giving away" anything. So I built my own machine, with much frustration and fumbling around in the dark. Once I finally figured things out and got it to work (Just as well as our $15,000 machine at the school) I figured I would share my lessons. After all it is what I am trained to do. Learn something and pass on the knowledge to others. I have a lot of teacher friends who like me, work in schools with very little money. So why not give away as much info as possible to help them out? As for the software, my initial thought was to sell it for a small price. (Justify all the time I spend ignoring my Fianse' (SP) to work on my machine) But I have realised just how difficult it is to drive steppers in the windows enviroment. I am still working to develop the software, and will initially release it as a free, fully working version to iron out the bugs. Maybe once it is tightened up I will sell it...maybe not. Anyway, thats my story and I'm sticking to it. Thanks for looking. Feel free to ask any questions. Have you built/bought/are building/ a machine?


Mike

High Seas
03-11-2004, 09:01 PM
mwalach - Mike, I've built a machine - its in the photo gallery (System2) under High Seas. Currently using MACH2 and its a very nice program with some neat features. But I'm always looking for improvements and refinements in the software/integration - liked your interface - simple and clean. Very nice for quick fast use.
As a former instructor/teacher/trainer I appreciate your perspective - give something back - so cool. Also like the idea/model of release and beta test and small pricing too! Keeps the big guys on their toes and improves the whole system. I think a lot of the DIYers here are into the less than 10K system too! Any value added is certainly scarfed up! Best of luck and,
:cheers: Jim

kayakman
03-12-2004, 02:30 AM
Hi

@High Seas

The working space will be about 120 x 90 cm. One of the mayne purposes for the mill will be to mill out depron parts for model airplanes. But I will also mill MDF, balsa, plywood and aluminum.

I will keep the photos coming along the assembly. I will pick up the watercutted parts next week. :D

kayakman
03-12-2004, 06:56 AM
I have been looking at the Xylotec controller which looks good. What size stepper do I need to use? Would it work with 034 size. Single, double och trippel stack and BTW what is the difference???? : )

Does anyone have any other suggestions on controller, NC program and steppers?

How mutch would it cost to go servo style?

Best regards / Anders Molin

pack rat
03-12-2004, 12:02 PM
034 I think you refer to Nema 34 size. Xylotex uses max of 35V DC and 2.5A. I have size 34 frame motors and one set of the motors would not work with the board. Another set of motors will work with it if the amps are below 2.5. As for servo controller Gecko's or Rutex. For servo motors you could use these http://www.automec-direct.netfirms.com/html/clifton_dc_motor.html You must add the encoder. Jeff from homeCNC reserched and added encoders to them. He use to sell them complete with encoders really cheap. If he is using them then they are good.

kfong
03-12-2004, 01:12 PM
Hi Mike,

Instead of reinventing the wheel, you can run EMC which is free. Very powerful and used by many industries. The only drawback is it runs on Linux. But there is a new install, called the brain dead EMC CD I believe. You will need to dedicate an old pc for this, but generally that's what you will need to do anyways. I have links on my webpage. Also, if you are looking for a stepper motor design you can build. I have one posted as well as open source code. It is a micro stepper board. Much better than a full step or half step design. Very smooth, you think it was a servo motor at first. It can handle 3amps and up to 55volts. If your are able to get a hold of the latest double or triple stacked stepper motors. It can spin them at very high rates.

Kin Fong

http://www.embeddedtronics.com/


Originally posted by mwalach
Everything on my site is free. I am a teacher, and started studing stepper motors and programming on my own a few years back. I always thought it would be cool to have a computer control for a dremel tool. I knew a little about CNC, but not much. The school I teach at bought a CNC router system for the wood shop. It does very cool things and I was instantly impressed. However...It cost $15,000!! But I was convinced I could build one...cheaper. I started to study programming the parallel port and surfed theb for info on cnc and discovered this "underground world" of CNC hobbiest. Lots of people had pics of there machines but no one was "giving away" anything. So I built my own machine, with much frustration and fumbling around in the dark. Once I finally figured things out and got it to work (Just as well as our $15,000 machine at the school) I figured I would share my lessons. After all it is what I am trained to do. Learn something and pass on the knowledge to others. I have a lot of teacher friends who like me, work in schools with very little money. So why not give away as much info as possible to help them out? As for the software, my initial thought was to sell it for a small price. (Justify all the time I spend ignoring my Fianse' (SP) to work on my machine) But I have realised just how difficult it is to drive steppers in the windows enviroment. I am still working to develop the software, and will initially release it as a free, fully working version to iron out the bugs. Maybe once it is tightened up I will sell it...maybe not. Anyway, thats my story and I'm sticking to it. Thanks for looking. Feel free to ask any questions. Have you built/bought/are building/ a machine?


Mike

Jan
03-12-2004, 08:31 PM
EMC and Xylotex
Caution:
If you use emc and xylotex there are some hardware changes reqiured.
Namely, you must swap wires from parallel port, a search of google will reveal more.
Emc is in developement and not all hardware/software is supported,again google is your friend.
jerry

mwalach
03-12-2004, 10:06 PM
I am using Master 5 with my machine. Very easy to use, runs well in windows. Works well with my Xylotex board. Xylotex board was easy to set up and Jeff from Xylotex was very helpful in getting it up and running.

I have been having a blast routing stuff out. Only problem has been my steppers. I bought them off ebay from a guy by the name "Deepgroove1" or something. Motors were not a matched set, all different current ratings. I didn't realize this at first and I almost overdrove 1 of them. Also one of them runs a little flakey, giving me some random errors. Just a few words of advise to any newbees looking to buy motors.

kfong
03-13-2004, 10:19 AM
Hi Jan,

The only hardware change is usually the pinouts in the parallel port since there really isn't any industry standard. I wouldn't say EMC is still in it's development stage. It is far more a complete gcode interpreter than most of the low cost CNC packages. It really belongs in the high end arena. It is used by industry and is has tons more features such as tool path compensation and software backlash control and many others that you only find in the more costly packages. It was originally a government funded project. Even Sherline is offering it in there new CNC packages.

Kin Fong

http://www.embeddedtronics.com/


Originally posted by Jan
EMC and Xylotex
Caution:
If you use emc and xylotex there are some hardware changes reqiured.
Namely, you must swap wires from parallel port, a search of google will reveal more.
Emc is in developement and not all hardware/software is supported,again google is your friend.
jerry

kayakman
03-14-2004, 10:26 AM
@mwalach
What size do you have on your steppers and what are you routing. TChosing the best stpper and controller configuration seem like a hard task. I have been looking at Xylotec controller but I want to get good routing speed. What steppersize should I choose?



Originally posted by mwalach
I am using Master 5 with my machine. Very easy to use, runs well in windows. Works well with my Xylotex board. Xylotex board was easy to set up and Jeff from Xylotex was very helpful in getting it up and running.

I have been having a blast routing stuff out. Only problem has been my steppers. I bought them off ebay from a guy by the name "Deepgroove1" or something. Motors were not a matched set, all different current ratings. I didn't realize this at first and I almost overdrove 1 of them. Also one of them runs a little flakey, giving me some random errors. Just a few words of advise to any newbees looking to buy motors.

mwalach
03-15-2004, 08:53 PM
My steppers are powermax II steppers NEMA 23 SIZE 116 oz/inch. I bought them from ebay. There is a guy with the screenname deepgroove that sells them there all the time. The motors say they can do 1500 RPM but I am only getting them up to about 7 or 8 inches per minute. I am not sure if it is the board or the motors. I am using 1/4-20 threaded rod as a lead screw which means I need 20 rotations to move 1 inch.

I am routing wood. So far I have routed Pine, Mahogany, Plywood and MDF. The Mahogany routes the best but as $6.50 a board foot compared to $0.90 a board foot for pine, I have been using mostly pine. Machine seems to cut pretty well. I think I need better Linear bearings. I made mine from Delrin plastic, and I drilled them so they fit very loose. I only have a drill press and drill bits to machine them, so they didn't come out all that great.

The xylotex board has been great. Easy to use, and set up. Jeff from Xylotex is a great help. He has a group on yahoo for support which has helped me tons! I liked the xylotex board because he gives you the connector to mate to you parallel port cable. No need to build a breakout cable. Saved me a lot of time, and it looks much neater. I have been updating my site with pictures of my sample routes. Here is the web address. http://members.cox.net/walachcnc

ger21
03-15-2004, 09:13 PM
The motors say they can do 1500 RPM but I am only getting them up to about 7 or 8 inches per minute. I am not sure if it is the board or the motors. I am using 1/4-20 threaded rod as a lead screw which means I need 20 rotations to move 1 inch.

That 1500 rpm is MAX. I havent heard of anyone running steppers anywhere near that speed. You might want to switch to 1/2-10 acme leadscrews. I've seen a lot of machines here that get 30-40 ipm with similar setups.

Gerry

yumaorbust
03-15-2004, 10:26 PM
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The motors say they can do 1500 RPM but I am only getting them up to about 7 or 8 inches per minute. I am not sure if it is the board or the motors. I am using 1/4-20 threaded rod as a lead screw which means I need 20 rotations to move 1 inch.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If you havn't changed the configuration of your xylotex controller it is set up for 8 step micro-stepping in which case it requires 32000 steps to move one inch. If you are capable of reaching the max of 8000 hz as indicated in master 5 docs, then the max inches per minute you can achieve will be fifteen ipm.

mwalach
03-16-2004, 01:45 PM
I switched the stepping from 1/8 step to full step. I have tried clocking the motors faster but they just scream and don't move.

As for the Acme threaded rod, where can I find it? Is it cheap? I do not have any machine tools to turn down the ends for coupling or for bearings. Is it possible to make it work with limited tools?


Mike

Gus_452000
03-17-2004, 02:07 PM
Kayakman,
hows the router table coming on?
Need more pictures and plans would be very nice, keep up the good work.
Gus

kayakman
03-17-2004, 04:41 PM
Today I picked up the parts that have been watercutted. I must say that the stainless steel parts looks very nice. When the water jet cuts through the steel plate the jet contracts and get thinner. This results in the cutted edge not beeing perpendicular to the steel plate surface. The parts will not fit together without some grinding of the edges.

This week end I will start assembling the router table. This is what the parts looks like.

I love it. It's like cristmas eve and I get all the presents!!:D

Hobbiest
03-17-2004, 08:52 PM
The same thing happens when using a plasma cutter. I believe that they call it a swathe. The thicker the material, the worse it is.

Gus_452000
03-19-2004, 08:49 AM
Kayakman,
any chance you could send me the outlay drawing in a cad format?
Keep up the excellent work
Gus

kayakman
03-19-2004, 09:53 AM
Hi you all CNC hobbyists

I got the question if I could post the plans for the CNC router I´m building. I feel a little hesitate to post them before I realy know if they work.

@Gus
Send me an e-mail at kajakmannen@hotmail.com and I we'll see what we can do about the plans.

Does anyone know if it's possible to get reasonably high moving speed with regular threaded rods or is it more suitable to use acme rods or "trappets gänga" as they are called in sweden?
Ballscrews will cost to mutch but I will probably upgrade to ballscrews in the future.

I have decided to use the Xylotex controller card but have not decided on which stepper motorsizes. Any suggestions?


Best regards / Anders Molin :rainfro:

svenakela
03-19-2004, 10:06 AM
Anders, use "trapetsgänga".
You can order it from the Swedish company http://www.wiberger.se, they have very nice prices.

Regards,
Another Swede, but not the one called Swede at the forum... ;)

mwalach
03-19-2004, 03:58 PM
Hello all. I have revised my CNC plans and have them available to purchase. You can order them from my site at
http://members.cox.net/walachcnc
Only $25 us. I had some freebie plans up there before, but these are cleaned up with step by step directions, parts list suppliers, that sort of thing. I will ship world wide. I accept PayPal. If you want to see my machine or sample cuts check out my site. http://members.cox.net/walachcnc

Thanks alot and Happy CNC'ing.

PS
Nice looking machine Kayakman! Was the watercutting exspensive?

yukonho
03-19-2004, 04:48 PM
A couple of things that will speed up your rapids with the Xylotex board and those nema23 steppers...
Use 24V or up to 30V, and use MAch2. I run the same setup as above, 1/4-20 threaded rod with the powermaxII steppers and 24V power supply and I get 46"/min rapids.
I am going to go with coaarser pitch threads on my next project to try to get the rapids faster. 5/8-13 should get me well over 60"/min.
I would love to use some 1/2-10, but it is very difficult to find in Canada without having to pay through the nose for border fees.
co

Gus_452000
03-20-2004, 03:57 AM
Kayakman,
many thanks for that.
Will let you know how i get on
Gus

kayakman
03-21-2004, 11:20 AM
Hi all.

@ mwalach

The watercutting costed about 3660 swedish krones which is about 440 us$. Not to expensive.

The work is making progress.

I have decided to TIG weld the parts together. I will only weld shorts "dots" to not get to mutch heating deffection.

I have grinded down the parts that were a litttle bit to big to fit in the slots. Here is a picture of the x table as it looks today. It is quiet rigid but can twist due to the fact that the 2 MDF boards that will create the vaccume table is not mounted yet.

kayakman
03-21-2004, 11:21 AM
The z-axis before welding

arvidb
03-21-2004, 01:01 PM
Originally posted by svenakela
Anders, use "trapetsgänga".
You can order it from the Swedish company http://www.wiberger.se, they have very nice prices.

Regards,
Another Swede, but not the one called Swede at the forum... ;)

svenakela,

thanks for the link! Also check out Drivkraft in Spånga (www.drivkraft.se), they sell the "Ball Screws & Actuators" lead screws, with Anti-Backlash nuts. I don't know how their prices compare with others, but they've been really nice and helpful to me!

// Arvid

kayakman
03-23-2004, 02:39 AM
Hello all cncsmurfs : )

I have been looking at acme rods and wonder what size I should use for the CNC router that this thread is about. When I talk to the seller at a link that someone posted in this thread he thought that I should think over how large the straints would be on my design. Hmmmm I was hoping that he would help me with this. The router is 140x100 cm in size and the dimension on the leadscrews will be desided by the rpm and the length of the scres. Does anyone have a suggestion of which size to use?

Please specify in metric size : ))


Best regards / kayakman

kayakman
03-24-2004, 12:51 PM
Today I pick up the linear bearings for the x axis!

I cant believe that it can be christmas to days the same month : ))))))

Now the assembly realy can begin.

Here is a pic of the bearings.

kayakman
06-18-2004, 10:30 AM
The tablöe is welded toghetter. Some one on the forum told me to not weld but to glue but the welders have done a greate job and have only dot welded the parts togheter. Therefore less heat on the table. It realyy looks great. Cant wait until I can start to assemble the whole machine

kayakman
06-18-2004, 10:31 AM
pic #2

kayakman
06-18-2004, 10:32 AM
pic #3

balsaman
06-18-2004, 12:19 PM
Originally posted by kayakman
Hello all cncsmurfs : )

I have been looking at acme rods and wonder what size I should use for the CNC router that this thread is about. When I talk to the seller at a link that someone posted in this thread he thought that I should think over how large the straints would be on my design. Hmmmm I was hoping that he would help me with this. The router is 140x100 cm in size and the dimension on the leadscrews will be desided by the rpm and the length of the scres. Does anyone have a suggestion of which size to use?

Please specify in metric size : ))


Best regards / kayakman

12mm acme rod would be best. Bigger has too much inertia for those steppers.

Eric

signIT
06-21-2004, 02:21 AM
Hi Kayakman,

I have a Zoltar metal kit and it was glued together it works very well, what I meant was that you could make adjustments if you glue and your metal kit is a clone of the Zoltar product so...

I have asked a company that makes a skate grinding machine how to mount the rails, he told me that it is not so hard, he mounts one THK rail on an ordinary square steel tube that is painted, the rail is mounted without any special treatment of the mounting surface but he use a measure clock.

Another point of view is that ordinary industrial linear rails may oscillate due to the construction, it is no damping, the Zoltar kit has nylon guides and they will not vibrate but they are a bit sticky so a compromise would be best maybe it is possible to make a anti vibrate device to mount on the THK rails.

Regards

GLHA

signIT
10-07-2004, 02:53 PM
Hi,

Can you tell us where to buy those INA products, can you give us an example product and price?

Leffe

kayakman
10-21-2004, 06:37 AM
Hi
Long time no seen. I will try to make some progress with the CNC mill that I'm building and are now looking for suitable controler and steppers. I'm thinking of using the Xylotex controller but doesn't know what size/brand steppers to use to get maximum performance from the controler. i also don't know what size on the ballscrews to use. Are thinking of 1/2-10 size to geta little more speed, I only hope that the tourq wont be to low with this configuration. Can anyone give me some advice and does anyone know what the next level is if I want more Speed/Tourqe? Is it servos then and if so, to what cost? Are there any larger stepper controlers or is it as expensive as servos or ....??????

Anyone knws??

Best regards / Anders Molin


Sweden

svenakela
10-21-2004, 04:50 PM
Hi Anders,

As you said yourself, talk to the company drivkraft about screws. They have a product line similar to acme's but with a better profile of the thread and therefore much less friction.
Otherwise, http://www.solectro.se have Isel ballscrews with very very nice prices, right now they also have some sell off parts (check their site).

Cheers,
Sven

mwalach
10-22-2004, 11:38 AM
You should e-mail the guy at Xylotex, he is a great help. He got me going on my machine. I have been running his controler with Power max II steppers 116oz/inch and my machine run great. http://members.cox.net/walachcnc. I know your machine is a lot heavier than mine though, so I am not sure. I thought about 1/2 -10 screws as well, but I think you will have bigger problems with backlash. My 1/4-20 screws have no anitbacklash nuts or anything and it is not a problem. Just a few thoughts.

Mike

JavaDog
10-22-2004, 02:23 PM
You should e-mail the guy at Xylotex, he is a great help. He got me going on my machine. I have been running his controler with Power max II steppers 116oz/inch and my machine run great. http://members.cox.net/walachcnc. I know your machine is a lot heavier than mine though, so I am not sure. I thought about 1/2 -10 screws as well, but I think you will have bigger problems with backlash. My 1/4-20 screws have no anitbacklash nuts or anything and it is not a problem. Just a few thoughts.

Mike

Not to hijack the thread, but what kind of accuracy are you getting on that plastic cnc machine? Looks pretty nice. :)

mwalach
10-23-2004, 04:26 PM
As for accuracy I am not really sure. I can say this however....I have made some engravings, then reset and ran the same code a second time and it cut pretty damn close to the original cut. So close I would say perfect, but, I router cutting in wood is tough to make a guess from. So...unscientificly...really, really well.

I have learned that most my problems where fairly easy fixes. It all comes down to "What are you trying to make?" If you are only going to engrave wood, then you don't need an accuracy of .0001", it just doesn't make any sence. How accurate is the best crafts man? You machine should still be able to out do him..I would think. A lot of people don't like the fact that high thread count = a slow machine. In the production worls I can see that, but if this is a hobby machine, who cares. I set up a job, then walk away and watch tv, work in my shop on something else or whatever. That is the great thing about cnc. I think you can build a nice machine very cheap if you just think things out. A lot of people worry about things that are not even problems. My best advise is, build a single axis first. Get it to move 100%. figure out all your problems there, then build the rest of your machine. I made my first machine out of wood for about $300. Then when I knew what I was doing, I built the plastic machine in about a month. Total cost $500, may be a little less. There is a lot to be said for planning and experimenting.
Anyway....sorry about all the babble, I know you only asked about accuracy.... :)

Mike

kayakman
11-02-2004, 07:52 AM
I have now decided to go with Servos and the Rutex R990H controler.
I will also use 600 oz servomotors and when coupled 1:1 to a .200” lead ballscrew will give a resolution of .00005” per step. I'm aming at a speed of 240 IPM which will be very very nice.

I will cost but it will also taste very very nice!!!!! :cheers: :banana: :p

I have also ordered some energy chains from IGUS (http://www.igus.de) for the electrical wiring. Now I just have to order the linear bearings for the x-axis and it will start looking like a router : )

I will post some pics. when the stuff arrives.

Any one have any suggestions on what carving tool (spindel) to use for this size machine?

Best regards / Anders Molin

svenakela
11-02-2004, 02:40 PM
I have a setup with Rutex controllers too, you'll be satisfied! :-)

--Sven

kayakman
11-05-2004, 08:33 AM
I have been building up the router in 3D so that I can show how it is suppose to look in the end :))

This is how far I have come yet.

cncadmin
11-05-2004, 08:37 AM
Nice, looking good.....

kayakman
11-10-2004, 03:35 AM
:stickpoke Hi
I´m currently looking at what type of leadsrews to use for this project.
As I have read here on the forum there are alot of things to consider befor chosing the leadscrews.

My servo motors will spin at around 1000 rpm and I´m thinking of going with direct drive. The screws will be fixed (two bearings with a disteance between) in one side and simple (one bearing) in the other side. I would like to go with a speed of around 200 IPM which yilds a needed lead of 0.200". Then comes the question!

Does my servo motors have the needed torque and what diameter on the screws do I need???

The servo motors have a peak torque of 600 oz-in but that is with 50 V in and I will only use them at around 34 V in. (I guessed that the RPM will be around 1000 RPM at 34 V when they have around 1200 RPM at 50 V)

What do I need to calculate to get the answere on my questions??

Critical speed (How to calculate) Torque on the screwss?? ANy one that can help me.

Thanks in advance / Anders Molin

kayakman
11-11-2004, 04:40 PM
Today the Energy chains arrived.
Here is a picture of the chains. It looks a little bit more professional with the cables drawn through energy chains :)

I couldn´t ressist to mount the chains with some clamps to see how it would look

ger21
11-11-2004, 09:44 PM
:stickpoke Hi
I´m currently looking at what type of leadsrews to use for this project.
As I have read here on the forum there are alot of things to consider befor chosing the leadscrews.

My servo motors will spin at around 1000 rpm and I´m thinking of going with direct drive. The screws will be fixed (two bearings with a disteance between) in one side and simple (one bearing) in the other side. I would like to go with a speed of around 200 IPM which yilds a needed lead of 0.200". Then comes the question!

Does my servo motors have the needed torque and what diameter on the screws do I need???

The servo motors have a peak torque of 600 oz-in but that is with 50 V in and I will only use them at around 34 V in. (I guessed that the RPM will be around 1000 RPM at 34 V when they have around 1200 RPM at 50 V)

What do I need to calculate to get the answere on my questions??

Critical speed (How to calculate) Torque on the screwss?? ANy one that can help me.

Thanks in advance / Anders Molin

I don't think you want to spin the screws at 1000 rpm. Why not gear down 2:1, and get a .5 lead screw. This will give you about the same speed and torque, but only spinning the screw 1/2 as fast.

kayakman
11-12-2004, 02:34 AM
I don't think you want to spin the screws at 1000 rpm. Why not gear down 2:1, and get a .5 lead screw. This will give you about the same speed and torque, but only spinning the screw 1/2 as fast.

Hi Ger21.

I checked with the guy from whom I will buy the Servomotor and he said that with my powersupply the motors will have a RPM of around 850. Do you still think its to fast and that it would be good to gear down?

I´m also thinking of going with two leadscrews on the x axis. This to get a more rigid performance. If I only have one leadscrew in the middle I´m afraid that the the gauntry will flex when cutting far from the x axis centreline.
I f I go with two leadscrews on the x axis I need pulleys and a beltdrive and then its no problem to gear down.


Best regards / Anders Molin :cheers:

kayakman
01-20-2006, 03:24 AM
The project has been on hold but I´m kickstarting it no and are expecting a custombuilt PS any day now and are also about to testspinn the motors as fast as I have figured out how to connect the encoders to the Rutex cards.

Any one out there who have a lot of experiance of Renco encoders.

The ones that I have are covered by a plastic cap and are suppose to be 1000 CPR encoders (possible 2000 CPR, investigating it now).

In the Rutex manual they speak of differential encoders or single ended encoders (TTL). Any suggestions what the Renco 1000 CPR encoders could be?? :wee:

There are 8 cabels out of the encoder I think. White, Red and then some different colours.

Any help is welcome.

Best regards / Anders Molin

acondit
01-20-2006, 01:25 PM
Today the Energy chains arrived.
Here is a picture of the chains. It looks a little bit more professional with the cables drawn through energy chains :)

I couldn´t ressist to mount the chains with some clamps to see how it would look

Kayakman,

I like the "Energy chains". Most of the ones I have found have been huge.
Who are they made by?
What is their part number?
Where can one buy them? And if you don't mind what did they cost?

Thanks,
Alan

kayakman
01-22-2006, 05:51 AM
I don´t have the name of the brand of the energychains but I know that there are smaller than these to buy if you want. I will look it up as fast as possible.

Recieved some more parts for the router this friday. Half of the ballscrew came. They were expensive though.


Now the next stage of the builld can start. :rainfro:

ynneb
01-22-2006, 05:19 PM
Anders, since you have bought the same servos for the same dealer as me, and the encoders are Renco just like mine, This is what worked for me........


This is what Vlad sent me some time ago.
It works for my open end encoders.
This is how to wire up your Renco encoders.
Just leave out the Non inverse wires.

The limitation of open ended encoders is that you are limited in the distance of the cable you can run to them.

I note that Rutex also sells adapters that make your open end encoders to differential encoders. They sell them for $19.00

Pin#
Signal Name
Description
Renco - *CA18 encoder

1
+ 5V
Positive supply for encoder
RED

2
Ch – A (non inv.)
Encoder input channel A
WHITE

3
Ch – A (inv.)
Encored input channel A
YELLOW

4
Ch – B (non inv.)
Encoder input channel B
GREEN

5
Ch – B (inv.)
Encoder input channel B
BLUE

6
Shield
Cable screen
SHIELD

9
0V / signal ground
Supply for encoder
BLACK

kayakman
01-25-2006, 03:57 AM
Kayakman,

I like the "Energy chains". Most of the ones I have found have been huge.
Who are they made by?
What is their part number?
Where can one buy them? And if you don't mind what did they cost?

Thanks,
Alan

The energy chains are igus brand. www.igus.com (http://www.igus.com)

I don´t know the partnumber now but can probably check it out later this week. I bought them through a local retailer but check on there site if the have any retailer near you.

The cost was not to bloody but I don´t remember the exact cost.

Best regards / Anders Molin

kayakman
02-16-2006, 04:04 PM
Did some work on the router today. This is how far we came. The box to the left is the PS. It gives 60 V 20 A unloaded.

The cable is drawn through the energychains. I looks realy nice if you ask me. :)

Next week we are going to solder some encoder connections.

srstol
02-28-2006, 11:46 AM
Look good to me too. What's the current status?

I am building a Zoltar machine and really like some of the improvements you've made to the concept.

Rob.

kayakman
02-28-2006, 03:44 PM
Thanks Rob

I have roughly tuned the cards but will do some more fine tuning this week. I have also recieved all the pulleys and the bearings.

I have caded up some mounting plates so that the bearings can be mounted.

WIll start the finale assembly in the coming 2 weeks. Then there will be alot of adjusting to get everything to run smoodly.

I will keep you posted in this thread when something happens.

Best regards / Anders Molin

kayakman
03-20-2006, 06:38 AM
plates for fastening the bearings and motors are being lasercut now and I have recieved all the ballscrews. The are beeing adjusted in the ends now and will be delivered to me tomorrow. I have also runned all the motors. Two works fine but one does not hold the position. it spinns at full speed all the time. :( maybe the encoder is damaged or something like that. I have contacted the seller and we are working it out right now.


I will post some pics tomorrow when al the stuff for making th efinal assembly has arrived.

Best regards / Anders Molin

kayakman
03-21-2006, 02:15 PM
Now the leadscrews have arrived from the guy who have work the ends of them and I testfitted them today to see how they will be mounted.

Here are some pics and also a link to a movie of me moving the gauntlet

Video of some movement (by hand though) (http://flyg.bkdata.nu/kajakmannen/100_0015.AVI)

Still waiting for the plates that the bearings and the motors will be mounted on.

Maybe next week. :)

Best regards / ANders Molin

kayakman
04-12-2006, 02:07 PM
Hi Here are some new pics of the progress. We have temporary welded the bearing mounts in place to be able to see how it fits.

One other thing. Is there no interest in this build from anyone. Where are all the questions from you how look at the pics? :)

Shorly there must be questions that you wonder? Post and I will answere.

No for the goddies :cheers:

Out of quota so there are links to the place where the pics is stored

jmytyk
04-13-2006, 12:15 AM
I have no questions on how this thing goes together :) your log is super clean, and the pics are great- keep up the good work... "i like the pretty pictures"

srstol
04-13-2006, 12:24 AM
I like it. The pictures speak for themselves. It looks to me like you are going to have an amazing machine when it is complete. Keep the thread going.

Rob

kayakman
04-19-2006, 03:28 AM
Here comes some new pics.

Both motors in place. Soon we will be able to spinn the Y and X axis. hehe Finaly some progress!!!