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cdsgraphic
01-04-2007, 09:42 PM
Just got my plans this week so I have started collecting some parts. I would have to agree what others have said, the plans are well written and easy to follow.

I have many modifications already thought out during the build, such as, 1/2" x 10 tpi acme lead screws, my own design anti-backlash nuts, polished tube steel rails instead of EMT, Lovejoy style couplers and many others that I will document here along with lots of pictures.

I expect my build time to take at least a couple of months due to my business schedule and trying to spread out the costs.

As of today I have about $100 dollars in the parts obtained, not including the cost of the plans, parts are as follows...

8mm id x 22mm od bearings (40pcs) - found a heck of deal on ebay
1/2" id x 3/4" od bearings (30 pcs) - another great deal found on ebay
1" od x .120 wall x 96" round steel tubing (for x, y axis - 2 pcs. - had these)
3/4" x 36" x 16 ga. round steel tubing (for z axis)
1" x 1" x 1/8" x 36" Aluminum angle
3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8" x 36" Aluminum angle
1/2" x 96" Aluminum channel (2 pcs.)
1/4" x 36" allthread rod (1 pcs.)
1" x 1/8" x ?" flat steel bar (something i had)
5/16 x 1" and 1.5" bolts, nuts and washers

I have estimated my total cost of this build should be around $1600, including software.

Heres some pictures of the raw materials (excluding bearings), to get my thread going. The 1" steel tube has some light rust but will polish up nicely.

Watch for more to come :wave:

DougO
01-05-2007, 10:20 AM
Good luck on your build. If you just follow the manual step by step you shouldn't have any problems. One of the best manuals I have seen. It's a nice little machine also. Your final figure is higher than mine turned out including me buying Vcarve Pro and Mach3. Hopefully yours will turn out cheaper also. Looking forward to seeing a lot of pictures.

cdsgraphic
01-07-2007, 09:55 PM
Had some time this weekend to work on some parts for my router...

Pic #1: Cutting angle, channel and tubing:

Pic #2: After cutting, I wanted to be sure the ends are square and clean.

Pic #3: Marking the pieces for the bearing trucks and filing the recesses for the machine screws.

Pic #4: Set up the drill press for all the holes.

Pic #5: Change the drill press a bit to drill and tap the holes in the x,y and z rails.

Pic#6: Still have some polising to do on the rails, but at least i got something done. In this pic you can see the second deviation from the plans (first was using regular steel tubing insted of EMT), I used four bolts instead of three in the x rails.

Pic #7: Also stopped at radio shack yesterday and picked up some micro switches for limit switches. they only had four left in the drawer, will get the rest another time.

next thing I'll probably do is build the cabinet the whole thing will set on, so that will take a while before I can actually get back to the actual router.

thanks for looking! :)
trevor

thkoutsidthebox
01-09-2007, 06:52 AM
cds,

great start. :) Im doing a log of my build aswell and only started recently, Im looking forward to seeing how our two machines turn out at the end , and any differances, since we're kinda building parallel to each other.

Enjoy.
L8rs.

cdsgraphic
01-09-2007, 06:09 PM
Well, I've been doing a lot of reading the past couple of evenings about steppers, controllers and powers supplies and I think I have reached a conclusion.

Even though the the xylotex kit is nice because it is basically plug and play, it seems to be very limited in the amount of power one can put to the board which in turn limits the steppers. So I think their kit is out.

I have decided on a hobbyCNC board and will put together my own power supply, something around 24-30 volts and 10 amps.

The let down with hobbyCNC is the limited stepper selection. But I found a place that has a 280 oz./in. for $40 each.

So that's my log report for today. :wave:

Trevor

jllewel812
01-09-2007, 08:35 PM
looking good!

I have been working on my solsylva since end october. Just about done.

I just wanted to comment on you band saw. I have the exact same one. It was nice for cutting aluminum angle, emt, and threaded rod. Also, I am using hobby cnc kit which so far in testing has worked out good. Looking foward to more pics. I will post some when I do my first cut!!!

Woodie1
01-09-2007, 09:08 PM
But I found a place that has a 280 oz./in. for $40 each.

Trevor[/QUOTE]

May I ask where you got your steppers?
Thanks

cdsgraphic
01-09-2007, 10:22 PM
May I ask where you got your steppers?
Thanks

I found this place located in chicago. I think they also have some listings on ebay.

http://www.kelinginc.net/index.html
Click on "Stepper motors in stock" and scroll down to "KL23H276-30-8B"

The name also sounded familiar in that I may have seen it mentioned here, but I can't be certain of that.

Trevor

cdsgraphic
01-09-2007, 10:29 PM
looking good!

I just wanted to comment on you band saw. I have the exact same one.

Thanks,

I know a lot of people don't like HF and some of the stuff they sell is truly garbage, but I have quite a few tools from them and most of them have served me well.

That little bandsaw has cut a lot of steel for me.

Trevor

thkoutsidthebox
01-10-2007, 02:40 AM
You seem to know what your talking about so I hope Im not teaching 'a duck to suck eggs', :D

.....but I just dont want you to buy something inappropriate like I did at first, so make sure that the HCNC board and the power supply you choose have enough amps for your steppers. I believe the HCNC boards max is 3A per stepper, so if for example your 280oz/in steppers are 4A, then HCNC will only run them at 75% capacity. Also, on the power supply, having a bit extra in the amps wont do any harm, the steppers will only draw down what they need. My transformer with HCNC 200oz/in steppers is 24Amp, and 24V. After rectification I get approx 33.6V @ 24A.

Keep up the good work! :)

dan dimock
01-10-2007, 05:33 AM
where is a doog place to look for a power supply?
I was told that the old copy machine will have one whereby you can run several motors and they will have 24 volts or more. If you know of a bargin please pass it on.
Dan

thkoutsidthebox
01-10-2007, 07:35 AM
Maybe trevor will be generous enough to post a thread of his transformer build, or perhaps post it in this thread? (Hint hint! :D)

Madclicker
01-10-2007, 10:07 AM
I found this place located in chicago. I think they also have some listings on ebay.

http://www.kelinginc.net/index.html
Click on "Stepper motors in stock" and scroll down to "KL23H276-30-8B"

The name also sounded familiar in that I may have seen it mentioned here, but I can't be certain of that.

Trevor

You'll get about 200 oz/in out of those motors with the Hobbycnc drives.

joecnc2006
01-10-2007, 10:13 AM
If you get the 425oz. you will get around 305oz. running uni-polar, i have run them on the HobbyCNC Board.

Joe

cdsgraphic
01-10-2007, 11:59 AM
Thanks Joe and Steve, I'm a real newbie at this stuff so any info is very appreciated! :wave:

Trevor

cdsgraphic
01-10-2007, 12:46 PM
You seem to know what your talking about so I hope Im not teaching 'a duck to suck eggs', :D


HAHA! now thats funny... "I know what i'm talking about". I wish I did, but I just keep piecing together all the information on the zone as it comes in. On the other hand the more I read, the more confused I seem to get :confused: .


Thanks,
Trevor

cdsgraphic
01-10-2007, 10:43 PM
Not much to report today, no real work done on the router except that I picked the color scheme, drum role please...

Grabber Orange (it's a 2007 Ford Mustang color)
and Semi-Flat black for accent color on small parts.

That should look cool, right? :cool:

Trevor

cdsgraphic
01-23-2007, 03:47 PM
Got all my lumber yesterday for this build - hard rock (sugar) maple. Got my 1/2" bearings in the mail last week while I was away. And just placed an order with enco for some 1/2" x 10 tpi acme threaded rod, acme nuts and some other misc. items.

Hopefully I should have some updated pics of the progress in a few days!

Trevor

bp092
01-23-2007, 05:23 PM
looking forward to pics

thkoutsidthebox
01-23-2007, 07:48 PM
Finished today! Woohoo....:D (Using the term 'finished' loosely. Still have to tidy her all u then completely re-build her from a nicer wood.) Im enjoying following your progress cds, please post lots of pics if you can. :)

Rance
01-27-2007, 09:49 AM
Trevor,

Congrats on getting started. And keep up the pics. :) You mentioned a great find on ebay for bearings? How much and what seller if you don't mind? Thanks.

Rance

cdsgraphic
05-03-2007, 09:31 AM
Just thought I'd bring my old log alive again... it's been a while. I see some of the other builds have been finished and are even moving on to other machines. I had too many other projects this winter to really make any progress with mine, but hopefully, I'll be making some headway real soon.

Trevor

nandomax
05-22-2007, 11:26 AM
...I bought my plans a year ago and only last week started building. One of the reasons I lost my way was I wanted to re-design this into an aluminum frame (80/20 or the like) to get a slightly larger machine. Being my first machine, I should have stuck to Mr. Steele's suggestion and build this one first, as a learning ecxperience, and then worry about re-inventing the wheel.
I'm back on track, making decent progress.

rcbamm
05-22-2007, 01:46 PM
Got all my lumber yesterday for this build - hard rock (sugar) maple. Got my 1/2" bearings in the mail last week while I was away. And just placed an order with enco for some 1/2" x 10 tpi acme threaded rod, acme nuts and some other misc. items.

Hopefully I should have some updated pics of the progress in a few days!

Trevor


hi Trevor. I was wondering if the threaded rod will be good enough? I am building a CNC table router and I'm starting to collect my parts aswell. I was going to go to Home Depot and buy some threaded rod there but was wondering if it might be good enough? I had an idea of using some soft plastic threaded for the rod to take away backlash that the nut might have. this be a good idea?

-Dan

milhead
05-22-2007, 02:15 PM
I bought a acme tap when I built my machine and was making my own nuts out of HDPE for a while. I kinda had to view them as a consumable and finally broke down and bought delrin nuts.

I now have a combination of the Delrin nuts and the HDPE nuts for my backlash reduction.. The HDPE still wears a bit but I can make things last longer by just tightening the backlash screws....

thkoutsidthebox
05-24-2007, 07:38 AM
Hi, I used the threaded rod in my solsylva machine, and when you say 'is it good enough', well the answer is that it works! If your not going to step up to acme though, I'd definately use a larger diameter threaded rod than the 8mm, and turn down the ends for the bearings. This will reduce whip (Which I had a lot of at even medium speeds) and help increase your speeds.
I used the solsylva as a learning tool also. I've since built a new baby...well actually its cutting, but still a work in progress. :D
M2c.

CharCad
06-11-2007, 11:45 AM
Hi,


Hi, I used the threaded rod in my solsylva machine, and when you say 'is it good enough', well the answer is that it works! If your not going to step up to acme though, I'd definately use a larger diameter threaded rod than the 8mm, and turn down the ends for the bearings. M2c.

I'm just starting my Solyslva build. Upgrading the 5/16-18 NC screws to 1/2 - 10 Acme came up for me, too. It's sure the most cost effective upgrade for improved accuracy, speed and torque for no change$ to your steppers/drivers/ps package.

1. The cost is fairly minor. The extra cost of the 1/2-10 Acme rods is another $9.00 at Enco. On sale until July for $6.99 each per 6'. Whereas I paid $4.13 each for 5/16-18 rods at Lowes. Or you can buy .009" accurate per 12" elsewhere.

2. 1/2" 1616ZZ ball bearings are on eBay for 84 cents each in lots of ten. These displace some of the 608Z bearings used for the leadscrew ends so that's a wash, for those who can't turn down screw ends because of no lathe.

3. Stock Drive Products has an all metal 1/2" bore version of the .313" bore timing belt pulleys used on the twin x-axis screws. It's part # A 6C 3-15DF03716. Or you can rebore the aluminum hub on the polycarbonate pulleys.

The leadnut is another issue, exhaustively discussed in other threads. The one thing I WOULD NOT do is buy a 1/2" -10 Acme tap. The chances are -0- for hand tapping such a large diameter of Acme thread anywhere near concentric. The money spent on an Acme tap can buy Acme anti-backlash nuts from Dumpstercnc or others. If you have a lathe and know how to use it, set up, bore and internally thread some Delrin yourself. Or turn down a piece of Acme rod, flute it and use your lathe to start the thread.

If cost is an issue, then buy Acme hex nuts.

Regards,

Mark

CharCad
06-11-2007, 11:46 AM
Hi,


Hi, I used the threaded rod in my solsylva machine, and when you say 'is it good enough', well the answer is that it works! If your not going to step up to acme though, I'd definately use a larger diameter threaded rod than the 8mm, and turn down the ends for the bearings. M2c.

I'm just starting my Solyslva build. Upgrading the 5/16-18 NC screws to 1/2 - 10 Acme came up for me, too. It's sure the most cost effective upgrade for improved accuracy, speed and torque for no change$ to your steppers/drivers/ps package.

1. The cost is fairly minor. The extra cost of the 1/2-10 Acme rods is another $9.00 at Enco. On sale until July for $6.99 each per 6'. Whereas I paid $4.13 each for 5/16-18 rods at Lowes. Or you can buy .009" accurate per 12" elsewhere.

2. 1/2" 1616ZZ ball bearings are on eBay for 84 cents each in lots of ten. These displace some of the 608Z bearings used for the leadscrew ends so that's a wash, for those who can't turn down screw ends because of no lathe.

3. Stock Drive Products has an all metal 1/2" bore version of the .313" bore timing belt pulleys used on the twin x-axis screws. It's part # A 6C 3-15DF03716. Or you can rebore the aluminum hub on the polycarbonate pulleys.

The leadnut is another issue, exhaustively discussed in other threads. The one thing I WOULD NOT do is buy a 1/2" -10 Acme tap. The chances are -0- for hand tapping such a large diameter of Acme thread anywhere near concentric. The money spent on an Acme tap can buy Acme anti-backlash nuts from Dumpstercnc or others. If you have a lathe and know how to use it, set up, bore and internally thread some Delrin yourself. Or turn down a piece of Acme rod, flute it and use your lathe to start the thread.

If cost is an issue, then buy Acme hex nuts.

Regards,

Mark