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Greolt
12-15-2006, 10:35 PM
I have enjoyed reading the build logs on the forum so I thought I had better make my contribution.

My aim is to have a router for Vee carving wood and cutting other materials maybe up to aluminium.

This build is based around two channels as the main structure of the base. Envelope 900 x 700 x 180

I had to machine the top and bottom surfaces to create a true reference on which attach the X rails and angle iron for the bed.

In the first pic I am using the tapping facility on my X3 to tap the forty holes for the rails. Worked great.

Second pic the paint job.

And last setting up the rails with the gantry. Lots of time spent here with straight edge, and feeler guage.
Got it pretty well spot on. Gantry runs down the rails really nice.

Gantry is based around a piece of "ITEM" (another brand like 80-20)

X is to be spring loaded gear rack drive on each side. 4 to 1 belt reduction.

I will do that next as I need to prove to myself that gear racks will be as good as people say they are.

If that turns out really well the Y will be rack as well.

epineh
12-16-2006, 03:13 AM
That is one sweet looking machine so far, can't wait to see the finished product. How much time have you spent on it so far?

Russell.

Greolt
12-16-2006, 05:32 AM
Hey Russell, I have followed your build with interest. Great to see those first cuts happening.
You were one of the ones that inspired me to log my build.

I will be pleased to see it done too but it will probably take a while. So far I have not spent long
but lots of time before that thinking about and deciding on a design.

I envy those people who have the cad skills to do the fancy drawings and nut out designs that way.
For me it all takes place in my head, mostly lying in bed in the wee hours.:D

epineh
12-16-2006, 05:55 AM
Glad to be of help, I know what you mean about the people with CAD skills, I made mine up as I went along, probably shows, but I am happy with the results. Gotta learn CAD now the thing is running.

As far as the rack and pinion goes, I am thinking of using them in my next build, the ones I have seen use a spring to hold the pinion against the rack to eliminate backlash (fairly heavy spring) and they work fine.

Keep up the good work.

Russell.

Jason Marsha
12-16-2006, 08:58 AM
Great looking Greolt.

Having the mill do the tapping must have been a great relief.


Jason

Greolt
12-26-2006, 08:25 PM
Just to show I have been making some progress in between the work rush before christmas and
all the other things a family man must do :)

Here is a pic of the machining of a motor mount bracket for my X axis. Great thing this CNC'd X3

Netjams
12-26-2006, 10:35 PM
First class!

Keep the pics coming :)

Calculus
12-27-2006, 02:36 AM
Great Job there. Where did you get those linear rails from?

higgrobot
12-27-2006, 04:14 AM
Greolt, i'm liking what ive seen so far, it's definately encouraged me to continue to gather parts for my own project(s). I can only hope to match the level of craftmanship that im seeing from you and others on cnczone, keep up the good stuff.

Calculus, you can get linear bearings, rails and ball screws from http://www.linearbearings.com.au/

Greolt
12-27-2006, 04:25 AM
Calculus, I got them from "Linear Bearings" in Melbourne.

They are Abbatech brand from Taiwan. One quarter the price of THK. Four rows of balls in each block.

I know some people manage to get bargains from ebay but I didn't have any luck.
When you add the cost to freight them here from the USA or Siingapore they are suddenly
no cheaper than buying brand new. And they have been replaced because they are worn.
Plus I got exactly the length and size I wanted.

Can you tell I am justifying it all to myself. :D :D

PS: Don't tell "Her Indoors"

Calculus
12-27-2006, 05:04 AM
How much were they(If you don't mind me asking)? I'm in Vic and got a quote for some ballscrews from linearbearings..could not afford them!

Greolt
12-27-2006, 06:12 AM
Calculus, the blocks were about $65 each and the rail $125 per metre.

They are no good for the type of rolled ballscrew that is popular. Too exy.
Better to go to "Homeshop CNC"

The X axis motor brackets are coming together. Trouble is Her Indoors wants to go away for a few days so it will have to wait now :)

Greolt
01-03-2007, 11:26 PM
Got the X axis motor brackets done and mounted. One on each side of course.
The reduction is 4 to 1 via toothed belt.

The spring load system is a bit temp as yet.
Will tidy that up a bit when I am satisfied this R&P drive system is all I hope it will be.

They are only 270 oz steppers which may or may not be enough to keep me happy.
I figure that is 540 oz combined so we will see.:)

One weakness I see on other R&P drives is that the pivot point is usually just a bolt through a drilled hole.
Now whenever I drill a hole and put an ordinary bolt through it usually ends up with about 3 to 5 thou clearance.
In this application that amount of clearance goes straight to backlash.
Then as the axis vigorously works changing direction all day that clearance will increase with the resultant wear.

On the pivot point I used bearings (overkill I know) and the fit on the pivot shaft and in the housing is firm.
So the resultant backlash at this point should be minimal.

Now I want to do a temporary driver electronics hookup and do some real world testing.
Rapids and acceleration. Backlash and repeatability.
I will need to put a dummy load on the gantry to match whats missing as well as cutting loads.

Greolt
01-04-2007, 02:20 AM
Someone asked me by PM about the pivot pin. So here's a couple of pics.

Turned it up out of 1045

epineh
01-04-2007, 03:14 AM
Nearly there!!! make sure to put video on when you get it moving, looks sweet , I like the R&P tensioning, simple and easy to adjust...I agree with putting a bearing on, just seems right.

I wish I had a CNC mill to make parts for my router, my machine has that "made with nothing but a drill press and a smile" kinda look about it, no matter. My friend has just purchased a brand new HM-52 and is in the process of retrofitting servo's etc to it... since I am starting my next build, he is my new best friend :)

Russell.

epineh
01-04-2007, 03:17 AM
Have you picked out what drivers you are going to use ?

Greolt
01-04-2007, 04:04 AM
Nearly there!!! :)
No a long way to go Russell. Lots to do. No Y or Z axis yet. :drowning:

Just want to test the R&P drives before pushing ahead.

If they are as satisfactory as I hope, I will use it on the Y axis as well.

I am using Geckos. ncPod for pulsing engine. Providing Art gets the plugin for Mach going.

epineh
01-04-2007, 04:24 AM
Lots to do. No Y or Z axis yet. :
But apart from no Y or Z its nearly finished :D
Russell.

Greolt
01-05-2007, 07:12 AM
I have just come in from the shed. It's late at night here.:D

Hooked up my X axis steppers through Geckos. Mach3 and LPT via CNC4PC BoB.
My benchtop power supply pressed into service at 30v

I want to run this when it's finnished with my ncPod but the beta plugin that I got from Art is only running three axis so far.

I need to slave A axis wth X as I'm driving both sides so can't do it yet.

8000mm per min I could get it to stall. Settled on 7000mm per min and leaning on the gantry as hard as I could it would not stall.

So far I am pretty happy with that. I don't really know how fast a router should be able to go.

Lot faster than the X3 mill. :)

I've always suspected that acceleration is more important than rapid speed anyway on this sort of machine.

Got that at about 0.1 of a second.

Anyway I'm off for a weeks hang gliding in what we Aussies refer to as mountains
tomorrow (europeans would laugh) so further testing will happen when I return.

joecnc2006
01-05-2007, 12:21 PM
I have just come in from the shed. It's late at night here.:D

Hooked up my X axis steppers through Geckos. Mach3 and LPT via CNC4PC BoB.
My benchtop power supply pressed into service at 30v

I want to run this when it's finnished with my ncPod but the beta plugin that I got from Art is only running three axis so far.

I need to slave A axis wth X as I'm driving both sides so can't do it yet.

8000mm per min I could get it to stall. Settled on 7000mm per min and leaning on the gantry as hard as I could it would not stall.

So far I am pretty happy with that. I don't really know how fast a router should be able to go.

Lot faster than the X3 mill. :)

I've always suspected that acceleration is more important than rapid speed anyway on this sort of machine.

Got that at about 0.1 of a second.

Anyway I'm off for a weeks hang gliding in what we Aussies refer to as mountains
tomorrow (europeans would laugh) so further testing will happen when I return.

If you want to test it i have jumpered the step and direction from the bob board X axis to two drivers. and seemed to work just fine since both drivers have their own motor supply.

Maybe someone else has a different opinion? but it worked for me.

Joe

Greolt
01-05-2007, 04:19 PM
If you want to test it i have jumpered the step and direction from the bob board X axis to two drivers. and seemed to work just fine since both drivers have their own motor supply.

Maybe someone else has a different opinion? but it worked for me.

Joe
I did wonder about doing that Joe. As this is just testing that would be fine.

However as a going machine I would lose the ability to use Mach's homing strategy where it homes each side independently (squares the gantry)

Anyone else have an opinion on the two drives sharing a step and dir. signal. Any gotchas :withstupi

joecnc2006
01-05-2007, 04:38 PM
I did wonder about doing that Joe. As this is just testing that would be fine.

However as a going machine I would lose the ability to use Mach's homing strategy where it homes each side independently (squares the gantry)

Anyone else have an opinion on the two drives sharing a step and dir. signal. Any gotchas :withstupi

with two seperate leadscrews, I would sync them using a belt or chain from leadscrew to leadscrew at the end, or if you have dual shaft motors, use the outer shaft with a sprocket to do the same. That way if one motor strugles and tries to loose steps the other motor can help it along with both moving in tandum. and that would make it so you do not need two homing switches. I am curently doing that now on a build.

Greolt
01-05-2007, 04:55 PM
Not possible or desirable on my design Joe. Spring loaded R&P with belt reduction.

Homing switches are really easy to do and if done well provide a great repeatable reference. IMO of course :)

Greolt
01-05-2007, 07:58 PM
Had the dial indicator on each side of the gantry.

Set zero, jog away and do random back and forwards jogs, return to zero and it comes within a thou. Happy with that. :)

When doing a long rapid movement I can hear occasional step glitch. Then it does not return to exactly zero.

This is the shortcoming with the laptop. Not a compleatly clean pulse stream. This is why I am keen on the ncPod. (wrong)

And no, don't bother telling me I should'nt be using a laptop. :boxing: I'm not listening. :withstupi

Lean with a lot of weight, backwards and forwards on the stationary gantry and can get 5 thou movement.
Not as happy with that. Belt could be tighter. It is slippage on the small pulley. It takes a lot of weight.:rolleyes:

No measurable movement between the pinion and rack. Happy about that. :)

All in all I am fairly happy. If I can just eliminate the belt slippage I will be very happy.

The boss is getting cranky. (chair) I am supposed to be helping to pack for our vacation. Better go. See ya.

epineh
01-05-2007, 08:03 PM
You shouldn't be using a laptop...hehe sorry couldn't resist :)

I think one of the biggest probs is that the parallel port of a Lappie doesn't sit at 5V like a normal PC, somewhere around the 3V mark, or at least in my mind that is the case...not that it is going to be an issue 4 u.

Russell.

Greolt
01-05-2007, 08:24 PM
G'day Queenslander. Raining up there? :)

That's not an issue with a BOB that buffers the signals. I can't imagine very many people are not using a BOB.

A lot of desktops are not 5v either. Most people don't relise that.

However I am not going to start one of those Laptop vs Desktop debates :) I don't really care. :D:D:D

ger21
01-05-2007, 08:37 PM
When doing a long rapid movement I can hear occasional step glitch. Then it does not return to exactly zero.

This is the shortcoming with the laptop. Not a compleatly clean pulse stream.

Have you tried slowing them down a bit?

Looks good, btw. :)

epineh
01-05-2007, 08:38 PM
We are growing webbed feet at the moment, the rain never stops, I wouldn't mind so much but it makes things difficult when you are building a house (more importantly a shed for the CNC machine!!!!)

I am going a similiar path to you with my machine, I'm getting DeskCNC and controller, can't wait till it gets here. Yeah I don't care much for the PC Vs Laptop debate either, if that was the biggest thing I had to worry about...

Aren't you supposed to be packing ? Are you heading up this way ? If you are going as far as Cairns, bring a raincoat !!!

Russell.

Greolt
01-05-2007, 08:55 PM
Have you tried slowing them down a bit?

Looks good, btw. :)
Thanks Gerry.

You are an experienced bloke with cnc wood routers. Should I be satisfied with 6000 mm per min? He He. I realise this is a wanky question.:D

How does this compare with lower end comercial machines? Just wondering as a comparison thing. I'm sure the big serious machines are in another league.:)

Greolt
01-05-2007, 08:56 PM
Aren't you supposed to be packing ?
Yeah, don't tell the boss. (nuts)

ger21
01-05-2007, 09:34 PM
I was just saying that perhaps it will run smoother if you slow down the rapids.

On our 8 year old machine at work, I can cut up to about 10M/min. A ShopBot PRT Alpha can cut at 15000mm/min, with 45000mm/min rapids. I'm not realy familiar with low end machines, but would guess most would fall in to the 7000-10000mm/min range.

Keep in mind that you'll probably need to take light (shallow) cuts at high speeds to prevent the spindle from bogging down. Unless you plan on throwing a 5HP spindle on there. ;)

Greolt
01-05-2007, 10:10 PM
OK so nothing to get too exited about :)

For the size (900 x 750) it should be good.

I also have this theory that acceleration is more important when doing the sort of thing I have in mind. Vee carving and such things.

Not going to be spending much time rapiding from one end to the other. After all it is not 6 metres long. :)

Greolt
01-05-2007, 10:22 PM
I was just saying that perhaps it will run smoother if you slow down the rapids.
Yeah I heard you on that one. The glitch I was refering to is a result of the less than perfect pulse stream from a laptop.

When using it on my X3 it has no discernable effect on the cut. However the resoluton is very small. About 1000 steps per mm

On this setup it will be about 100 steps per mm so will be an issue.

However I am not at all concerned about that at the present.

That will be addressed when the machine is completed.:)

ncPod to the rescue. :wee: I hope. :)

ger21
01-05-2007, 11:00 PM
By chance have you run the driver test?

Greolt
01-05-2007, 11:45 PM
Yes I have Gerry and yes it is borderline.

As I said this is not a priority right now and by the time it is ncPod should be a goer. :)

Apples
01-05-2007, 11:56 PM
Whats a ncPod!

Any links or info on it?

Peter
Australia

Greolt
01-06-2007, 12:44 AM
Peter info is a bit light on the ground as yet. Look at these links.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28307

http://ncpod.oemtech.com/

FPV_GTp
01-11-2007, 03:37 AM
hi

Greolt , once again i must say nice work

cheers

Greolt
01-19-2007, 05:31 PM
Haven't done much since I got home from holidays. Thought if I posted it might get me going. :)

Been playing around with the ncPod and haven't succeeded in getting the slaving working yet.

However I need to stop playing with that and get on with my Z axis design.

Still not sure whether to go with R&P on the Y or put a ballscrew on it.

So today I need to get the whip out and get some motivation happening. (nuts)

Just a pic of my mucking about. :)

Rodm1954
01-21-2007, 08:37 AM
Nice work Greg
Yes I have been waiting to see some more progress. :)

Greolt
01-29-2007, 08:42 PM
OK I got off my proverbial and did some work on the Z axis.

Thought some more pics would be good. :p I always like looking at peoples build pics.

Z axis is pretty much done. Solid as a rock. :boxing:

The rails I had from an ebay purchase. These two were the best of a lot of four. The other two had detectable wear.

Next time I will just buy new Abba brand rails as I did for the X and Y

Get what lenghth and size you want with no wear for about the same cost as ebay. At least that is my experience.

Anyway I was going to cut these shorter then decided I would leave them long. Hence the extension for the motor mount bracket.

Can always shorten them later if I want. Hate to do it and then wish I hadn't. :devious:

On the lookout for a spindle for it. Really like something like a 2 kw 18,000 rpm Fimec

If this thing is going to do any real work then noise is going to be a problem, so not keen on a router.

Now onto the drive for the Y axis. When that's done I will be on the down hill run. :banana:

FPV_GTp
01-29-2007, 09:19 PM
hi

very nice work greolt ;) the X3 cnc mill is coming in handy now ;)

out of curiousity , what is a 2 kw 18,000 rpm Fimec high speed spindle motor worth ??

thought of making your own spindle with high speed bearings and using a 3000 rpm motor and gearing it



cheers

Greolt
01-30-2007, 01:08 AM
Yeah the X3 is good but actually not used at all on this part.

I have a larger chinese manual mill and this type of stuff is quicker on that.

Next is a motor reduction / drive unit for the Y axis and then the X3 will be pressed into service. :)

Not keen on building a spindle. Would settle for a variable speed router before that.

When you get up to 18,000 rpm it gets pretty technical to make it work.

I know how hot the bearings on the X3 get because I doubled the standard speed. And that's only 3600 rpm :eek:

Rodm1954
01-30-2007, 03:36 AM
Greg
I like the rail setup on Y with them at 90 dregrees to each other. This should help with the radial load when cutting. Have you decided on R&P for Y?
I agree with you on spindles and hopefully you get lucky there.
Great work and keep those photos coming. :cheers:

ynneb
01-30-2007, 05:47 AM
Greg, I have just discovered your thread here. Its looking good. Maybe the next BBQ will have to be at your house?

epineh
01-30-2007, 06:01 AM
Very nice build Greg, I can feel some video's coming along soon!!!!

Keep up the updates on the NC Pod, I am interested in seeing it in action.

Russell.

Greolt
01-30-2007, 07:00 AM
Thanks Russell.

I haven't been playing with the ncPod lately but when I get this last axis drive done I'll have another go.

I see there is a new version of the plugin ready for download. Also a new firmware.

So maybe next time I try it the slaving will work for me. :cheers:


Rod, yes I am going with R&P on the Y.

Benny, if this thing is done maybe I'll bring it along. :wee:

Greolt
02-01-2007, 02:14 AM
Made my Y axis drive. I think it came up pretty well. Same principal as the X drives.



.......... I have been waiting to see some more progress. :)


So here is some pics so Rod can see that I am doing something!!!! :D :D :D


This is looking from the back of the Z axis.

.

Rodm1954
02-01-2007, 10:08 AM
And about time too :D
Seriously that is one very neat and well designed build. Keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing this cut some dust.

Me2
02-02-2007, 04:30 AM
G'Day Greolt,
Where abouts in Geelong are you. I'm in Highton, completed my CNC around 6 months ago and have been cutting ever since. Currently designing a spindle head. Burnt out my 3rd router, they don't like 12 hours of continuous running.

Cam
http://home.iprimus.com.au/cmckeown/foundry.htm

Greolt
02-02-2007, 05:42 AM
Cam I'm in Grovedale. We met last May at Nigel's BBQ.

Yeah I will probably put the router I already have on just to get it started but I really want a proper spindle :cool:

I'd love to drop in one day and see your machine. :cheers:

Me2
02-02-2007, 05:14 PM
G'Day Greolt,
Sent you a message offline.

Cam

crocky
02-04-2007, 09:41 PM
Hi Greolt,

Machine looks terrific!

I wonder if you could give me the part numbers of the bearing blocks and the tracks. I have got the motion technologies catalogue but there is so many to pick from :)

Do they cut to size, I am going to use about 4 x 800mm for two axis and about 100mm for the depth axis.

I have got onto a guy in Sydney who sells and cuts the 80/20 so that is what I will do (saves any hassels with the mates given my disability), just got to design it now and I have to sort out some screws too.

Cheers,
Bob

Greolt
02-04-2007, 10:04 PM
G'day Bob

Go to the Abbatech site and look at the BR series.

http://www.abbatech.com.tw/index_e.html

I used 20mm and 15mm rail.

Unless your machine is going to be pretty beefy I reckon the 15mm ones would be fine.

In fact these bearing are way stronger than we require on these machines so it is more a point of what
size you can get the cheapest rather than how big you need.

Also what size will attach easily to the 80-20 extrusion you choose is something to think about.

I could not have gone smaller on my Y axis and still mounted them direct to the extrusion I used.

Linear Bearings in Rowville is where I got them from and yes they cut the rail to your required length.

Greg

crocky
02-05-2007, 12:16 AM
Hi Greg,

Thanks for that....

From that I would say I need 10 x BRH15B (4 on bottom, 3 accross and 3 down) is that right? Is that the cheapest?

and the rails are 2 x 800, 2 x 700 and two x 300

All parts from Linear Bearings and should cost me about $1000 dollars :)

Now I will just have a look at some ballscrews!

Regards,
Bob

Greolt
02-05-2007, 12:52 AM
Yeah I think the BRH15B are the narrow blocks and the BRH15A are the wide ones.

Talk to Linear Bearings about prices. I don't know if these are the cheapest size.

Make sure you get your design well and truly sorted out before buying rails.

Three blocks on both the Y and Z could work OK. I have four.

If you did that would probably mean the rail with one block could also be shorter.

Remember as a principal, the further apart you can space the two blocks on the
same rail (within reason), the more rigidity you are designing in.

Greolt
02-10-2007, 07:37 AM
This afternoon I made an opto coupler board to interface between the homing, limits and estop and the ncPod.

This is so I can run my limit switches and estop off 12v and isolate that from the 5v logic on the Pod.

A bit of a learning exersise for me. Came up well though.

Almost got all the power supply, drivers and controller fitted up to an enclosure.

I will post some pics soon.

Trying to figure the best way to run the wiring to each axis. Thinking about suspending it from above.

Greolt
02-11-2007, 03:10 AM
Bolted on a surface for the table. Just a bit of MDF material I had laying around.

Sealed the edges and bolt holes. Should be fairly stable. If not just replace it. :)

Ran the dial indicator over it and shimed it underneath where needed to get it flat.

A sacrificial layer of MDF will go on top which will make 40mm thick.

You can see in the pic I made a quick and dirty mount for a cheap router I had.

Hoping that won't stay there too long. :)

ger21
02-11-2007, 11:33 AM
Very nice job.

Greolt
02-18-2007, 01:58 AM
I thought I better post something before Rod has a go at me again about lack of progress. :D

Work has been keeping me a bit busy lately. Well something has to pay for this obsession. :)

A couple of pics.

Tidied up what was temporary spring tensioners for the R&P drives.

Got some nice, proper limit switches from ebay. Dust sealed. Cheap. :cool:

One on each side of the X and one on the Y. They will be limits but more importantly homing.

Don't want one on the Z. Unless you have set length tooling, it seems redundant to me.

I want to make a Z setting switch. Dunno what the right name is.

The sort you jog down till the tool hits and automaticaly sets Z zero on the job.


I have actually been doing a lot on the control electronics and enclosure but won't post pics till it's done.

I have honest.... ;)

.

Apples
02-18-2007, 02:04 AM
You mean a floating head.

We use them on the plasma tables.

Peter
Australia

Greolt
02-18-2007, 03:42 AM
G'day Peter. No that's not it.

Look at this thread for an idea of what I meant.

http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php?topic=2136.0

Rodm1954
02-18-2007, 05:43 AM
Excuses, excuses that's all I'm hearing. :D :D

Good to see some more progress happening. The tidying up and fine tuning takes as long as making the components but the end result is worth it.

I agree with what you say about Z axis limit switches on a gantry router with a sacrificial top. On a mill it makes mores sense to have limits because errant Gcode can cause a lot of damge to a milling table. If you set up the Z axis zeroing device you may be able to program this less the height of the gauge as a soft limit in Mach3.

Look forward to seeing the enclosure and maybe some video soon.

epineh
02-18-2007, 07:29 AM
I'm with Rod, still waiting for video...

Russell.

Greolt
02-20-2007, 04:47 AM
I've been wondering for weeks. How am I going to manage the wiring?

The disatvantage of doing the X axis drives like I did is that everything moves. Not one motor that does not.

Will I suspend it from above? From the ceiling? That would be a pain if the machine needed to be moved.

Make a support frame? That will get in the way unless it only has a support on one corner. Then it will shake as the axis's (whats the plural?) change direction.

Just drag it on the ground? Use spring type things? Figure they will shake themselves to bits too.

Wouldn't it be good if that cable chain stuff was not so expensive!

Any how I thought I would find out how dear it is.

Yippee!!!! It's cheaper than I thought. :banana: I'll have me some of that!!:wee:

Now I just have to make up some brackets and cables will be taken care of. :)

It really is getting close now. I can feel some videos coming on. :cheers:

epineh
02-20-2007, 07:41 AM
OK spill, how much and where from???

I started making the stuff but it got very messy very fast, plastic is no fun to machine if you aren't setup properly.

Russell.

Rodm1954
02-20-2007, 11:11 AM
Then it will shake as the axis's (whats the plural?)

I wondered about that for ages myself - it is axes.

E-chain is very practical for your design and it looks the part as well.

Greolt
02-20-2007, 07:48 PM
Russell

I got it from Conductix. They have a branch in Melbourne.

Starts about $30 for a metre inc end brackets. That's pretty small.

The one I bought is bigger and was about $44 for a metre. You are unlikely to need one that big.

The reason mine is fairly big is that I will most likely end up with a water cooled spindle.

So I need room for 4 motor cables, two water tubes, one spindle power cable and a couple of small cables for limits and estop.

Also grabbed some small plastic things which clip in and hold the cables in order and keep separation between signal and power. 30c each.

Greolt
02-23-2007, 09:00 PM
Getting close now.

Just when the weekend would have seen it making dust the boss want to go away for the couple of days. :mad:

crocky
02-23-2007, 10:50 PM
Looking good now :) The machine will be making dust soon :wave:

I ordered the bearing blocks and slides from linear on friday, they should be here about monday with a little luck. Ended up getting the 12 bearings.

I note that they have the Item there too so I am now looking at that as well :) I know what size I am building, just have to draw it and order it :) now.

Do you know if their ballscrews are as cheap as the homeshopcnc ones?

Regards
Bob

Jason Marsha
02-24-2007, 05:42 AM
Getting close now.

Just when the weekend would have seen it making dust the boss want to go away for the couple of days. :mad:


Why are you surprised??:) :)
You are being told in a very subtle way that use of the machine depends permission from them. :D :D

Do not forget a video of your first dust making trial.

Jason

Greolt
02-24-2007, 05:17 PM
Bob I found them expensive on screws. Maybe I asked the wrong questions. It was a while ago.

I would ask then specificaly about the Thompson or Nook 5/8 screws and nuts that Homeshop sell. They might be OK on that.

eloid
03-03-2007, 02:17 PM
Calculus, the blocks were about $65 each and the rail $125 per metre.

They are no good for the type of rolled ballscrew that is popular. Too exy.
Better to go to "Homeshop CNC"

The X axis motor brackets are coming together. Trouble is Her Indoors wants to go away for a few days so it will have to wait now :)

whats the gear ration on this motor? in post #12

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=234528#post234528

Netjams
03-03-2007, 02:48 PM
WOW!

That is a nice machine :banana:

Greolt
03-03-2007, 04:22 PM
Eloid

It is 4 to 1 ratio, driving a 24 tooth "module 1" pinion

Thanks for the compliment Netjams. :)
.

Dirtbos
03-04-2007, 04:36 PM
We build long travel sand rails. V-8 powered, 400 to 650hp. www.eaglefab.net . I have been trying to design a plasma system that fits our needs. Low production volume, custom fit tabs and brackets. It does not need to be very big. Maybe 2 ft by 3ft cut area (haven't decided yet). Your design fits the bill perfectly. It is very well thought out. It must give you a great deal of personal satisfaction to see it come together. I am looking forward to your online video clips. :cheers:

eloid
03-04-2007, 11:18 PM
Eloid

It is 4 to 1 ratio, driving a 24 tooth "module 1" pinion

Thanks for the compliment Netjams. :)
.

did you make that grear box, or did you farm it out to a machine shop

Greolt
03-05-2007, 12:21 AM
I made it Eloid.

There is no reason it must be that fancy.

My desire was to have the drive shaft supported well with two bearings.

Also I decided to use bearings on the pivot point to minimise backlash.

Most designs simply have a pin or bolt through a hole.

mikie
03-05-2007, 04:19 AM
Hey Greg,

Finally looked at your thread. Great job and nice of you not to bag our machines in the process. Makes me look forward to seeing it on the next BBQ.

Your the quiet achiever in the group, plodding along, making lots of progress.
Can you PM me the name of the rails from LM that you bought.

Keep up the great work

/Michael

Greolt
03-05-2007, 05:12 AM
G'day Mike

Thanks again for hosting the BBQ on Sunday. Pretty successfull day I reckon.

Hopefully it will have the effect of giving people fresh enthusiasm for building.

I was very impressed with Derek and Jay's efforts bringing along their machine.

The rails were Abbatech brand from Linear Bearings in Rowville.

BRH15B and BRH20B were the sizes I got.

Planning on taking some video of my machine tomorrow, at last. :)

Had a few requests.:stickpoke

.

crocky
03-05-2007, 07:33 PM
Hi Greg and Mikie,

Sorry I could not have been at the BBQ, had some medical things happening and it should end soon I hope.

I got linear bearing blocks that are self lubricating (L=66mm) part number BRS15B-N-Z0 $57.50 each + GST

Linear Rails that were BR15R-N for $125.50 a metre + GST from linear bearings.

All from Greolts advice :) hope you don't mind! I have got the ballscrews ordered too now and they are coming from the states. The ITEM is looking good too, depends on the price of coarse. Just trying to get it drawn up and then I will get some quotes.

Cheers,
Bob

Greolt
03-06-2007, 04:31 AM
At last I have a video.

This is for Rod, Jason, Russell, Dirtbos and any one else who has been prodding me for video :stickpoke

http://web.aanet.com.au/greolt/cnc.wmv

epineh
03-06-2007, 06:55 AM
That is a machine to be proud of, nice work!!!
Gives me a lot of inspiration to get more serious on my various CNC projects, and an excuse to have a beer :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Russell.

Rodm1954
03-06-2007, 07:19 AM
:cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Have a couple of well earnt beers on me as well.
Fantastic Greg and well worth the wait.

crocky
03-06-2007, 03:52 PM
Ripper Greg :cheers:

Very nice looking video and the subject matter was excellent too :)

crocky
03-06-2007, 05:39 PM
Greg,

When you installed the linear rails to the gantry, did you put a screw in every hole with a nut or did you put them in every second or third hole. I am about to order the stuff and I need to know :) It would be nice to know what screw and nut part numbers to order if you know. Is there a cheaper way to do it?

How high are the rails that go up and down, I have only got them about 300mm. Should be okay though.

Thanks,
Bob

Dirtbos
03-09-2007, 12:21 AM
I absolutely love it. The "proding" was well worth it. (Sorry for the sharp stick.)

I've got to build a plasma version of this one. It's perfect.

Have a couple of "Red Neck" beers on me. Have you tried Budwieser? :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

Greolt
03-09-2007, 12:33 AM
I always thought that if I built a plasma machine it would be a design requirement that the X rails
were below the level of the material support slats.

Imagine loading the table with large (read heavy) steel sheets. Access would be very desirable. :)

Not at all keen on a high sided design for that reason.

One idea I would love to explore is a small portable unit that you place on the sheet, cut your part
then move it along and cut the next part.

However no room left in my shed for any of those ideas. :(

Dirtbos
03-09-2007, 12:54 AM
What I have in mind is a smaller table, similar in size to this one. It would be used to make low volume runs on tabs, brackets, suspension mount plates, etc. Smaller sheets of 1/8" to 3/16 thick 1018 that would be used would not be all that heavy.

The high sides might be a bit detrimental for loading, but the structural stability of the overall design (linear motion rails, gantry rails) more than offsets that concern. It has to be an extremely accurate machine.

Got to have one!!! :banana:

Dirtbos
03-09-2007, 01:26 AM
With a support cross member at each end of the two main channels (and none between) and the slats setting on top of those cross members, running parallel to the channels, none of the support cross members would be in the "cutting field". The slats, of coarse, are expendable. The material would slide in place from either end with ease. Also, it would be easy to "index" a larger sheet for additional cutting of that sheet by sliding it through.

The plasma torch would set higher on the “Z” plate (it does not need as much room as a router below), allowing room for the slats between the top and bottom of the main channels.

Greolt
03-09-2007, 04:05 AM
Sounds like your design ideas are coming together.

When your ready to make a start, do a build log in a new thread and keep us all up to date with it. :)

NC_jimbo
03-16-2007, 12:40 AM
Sweet machine.

1) Can you tell me how linear X rails level to each other. It sounds like you started off with milled beams, but what was your methodology after that. Please mention where you welded if any.

2) Pointers to your geared rail and gears?

Greolt
03-16-2007, 07:28 PM
G'day Jimbo

The channel iron as we call it here was machined both top and bottom.

What I did was bolt them back to back.

Machine one side of them and turn it over and machine the other side.

Then flip them again and remachine taking light cuts.

This resulted in the top and bottom surface being parrallel.

The legs, bracing and table support angle iron combine together to make a rigid frame.

Look at the pics in the first post in this thread.

Finally, with a straight edge accross the tops of the channel, I shimmed between the legs
and the channel till it was perfectly level accross the top.

I avoided any welding so as to not distort the channels at all. (apart from the bracing to legs)

Greg

Dirtbos
03-16-2007, 10:46 PM
G'day Jimbo

The channel iron as we call it here was machined both top and bottom.

What I did was bolt them back to back.

Machine one side of them and turn it over and machine the other side.

Then flip them again and remachine taking light cuts.

This resulted in the top and bottom surface being parrallel.

The legs, bracing and table support angle iron combine together to make a rigid frame.

Look at the pics in the first post in this thread.

Finally, with a straight edge accross the tops of the channel, I shimmed between the legs
and the channel till it was perfectly level accross the top.

I avoided any welding so as to not distort the channels at all. (apart from the bracing to legs)

Greg

Did you find it necessary to machine the surface inside of the channel iron where the gear track rests? It would seem that that surface would need to be parallel also.

I like the way you attached the gantry “track” to the 80/20. It appears to be attached to a piece of aluminum flat stock that is then bolted to the 80/20 with t-nuts. Is that correct?

As I said before, I love your design. It is well thought out. :D

NC_jimbo
03-16-2007, 11:00 PM
Also,

Any treatment to the channel inside face where you attached the verticle posts?

Picture on page 6 @ 02-23-2007, 09:00 PM at side view of angle iron
for bed looks like the angle iron is some wierd looking "V" shape. Is it regular
"L" shaped or what?

What size width/height and thickness is the channel?

Looked thru pages again for reference to source/mfg of gear track and could not find it. Got a name?

Any projections about accuracy/ressolution of X and Y?

Greolt
03-17-2007, 12:17 AM
The inside of the channel is not machined. This type of channel does not have tapered webs.

If they were tapered then yes machining a small section inside would be the easiest way.

It is 150 x 70. I could have gone larger or smaller but that gave me the height on the sides I wanted.

The rack on the gantry is attached as you said Dirtbos.

Didn't want it facing upwards to collect dust. Seemed the easiest way.

The angle iron underneath is standard. Optical ilusion. :) Downward facing web is cut back at a 45 degree angle.

You will have lots more places to get gear rack in the US. This is an Italian brand. Got it local though.

Greg

harryn
05-12-2007, 01:06 AM
Neat project. Do you have a method to keep the dirt out of the teeth ?

Greolt
05-12-2007, 08:34 AM
Thanks Harryn

As you can see in the pics the R&Ps are well out of the way and either face down or are vertical.

In the case of the X (first pic) they are on the outside of the side channel, away from the cutting area.

Dirt or dust is just not an issue.

Greg

Greolt
08-09-2007, 07:06 AM
Just an update on the router.

I finally got around to making a monitor stand and somewhere to put the computer.

Was taking up too much precious shed space sitting on it's own table.

On the stand I have a 12" touch screen running Mach with my "bright buttons" screen set.

Silicon keyboard. These are great. $12 and impervious to dust and moisture.

The computer cover is made of some acrylic I had in the "can't throw it away" pile. Cut it on the table saw and glued it together.

Made it plenty big so that it has plenty of air space for cooling. Added a small momentary switch to turn it on.

Greg

.

bigz1
08-14-2007, 05:04 PM
Only just found this thread. Machine looks great. Will have to add a vacumm clamp to mine.

ClaudioG
09-17-2007, 04:55 AM
Hi Greg,

Just wondering what you are using as a spindle? Looks like a Milwaukee.

What do you think of it?

Cheers,

Claudio

Greolt
09-17-2007, 05:48 AM
G'day Claudio

Yeah it is a Milwalkee die grinder. Happy with it so far.

Much better than a Bunnings Ozito. Although others have had more success than me with those too.

A few of the blokes in WA have been using these Milwalkees for a while and report positive things also.

They are a bit quieter and runout is OK

Seems you can get them for about $220 if you look around. Mine was $225.

I still hope to move to a proper HF spindle one day but till then this will do fine.

Greg

ynneb
09-17-2007, 08:20 AM
Hey Greg, check out this video and you will understand why Nigel and myself were amused at your computer housing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NoHkaFDTiD8
From memory this was a late 70s early 80s SciFi

Greolt
09-17-2007, 05:15 PM
Hey Benny,

The blokes in WA all give their machines a name.

I just thought of a name for mine.:idea:


......ORAC...... :D:D:D

pieresolanie
10-09-2007, 10:28 PM
Hi,

I need reduction gear 4:1 like the one in the picture, I like it looks well done and decent, I need one for Nema34 motor, could you please let me know where I can get it and what the price.

Thanks

Piere

Greolt
10-10-2007, 03:25 AM
Piere

I just made those myself.

Don't know if you're going to find one off the shelf.

And if you did it would no doubt be very expensive.

I suppose you could design one and get it made but that is going to be pricey too.

Sorry if you can't make them yourself, I don't have any better sugestions.

What about motors with geared reductions built in? I know you can get those.

Greg

eloid
03-01-2008, 06:23 PM
any videos of your machine

Greolt
03-01-2008, 07:40 PM
Sorry I don't have any video. Greg

ynneb
03-02-2008, 03:35 AM
Sorry I don't have any video. Greg
Yes you do...
<object height="355" width="425">

<embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/26-F4JGMQO4" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" height="355" width="425"></object>

Apples
03-02-2008, 04:29 AM
That looks like a nice tight machine.

How did you align both of the liner rails to each other so that they are parrallel?

Did you mill the top of the C channel bean flat before you mounted the linear rails?

Peter

Greolt
03-02-2008, 05:38 AM
Thanks Peter. All that is in the very first post of this thread.

Benny, all that video and it's not doing anything. Looks like a pretender. :)

ynneb
03-02-2008, 06:02 AM
Well if you cut some black stuff we could have seen it working, but the light stuff doesn't pick up well on the camera. Besides I had to almost beg you to give us a talk through of your screen and machine and you got a severe case of stage fright. :)

Im working on the full video right now.

sailfl
03-02-2008, 07:09 AM
Gerald,

I want to know if having the "Grease every Month" sign upside down helps remember to actually grease the thing!

Nice work on the machine, add ons and the screens. Where did you buy your 12" touch screen?

Nils

Greolt
03-02-2008, 04:26 PM
Nils

It was an ebay purchase. Ex supermarket POS screen.

12" and only 800 x 600. So that's why I need a custom screen layout.

Greg

bp092
03-02-2008, 06:30 PM
Still pretty sweet IMO, small but effective. I like your screen too.

Greolt
05-07-2010, 11:26 PM
This is now an old thread but I thought I might bring it up to date.

Can't believe I started this project over four years ago. This machine has done a lot of work and has proved to be very successful.

I have had a lot of fun with it. And learned heaps.

The 800 x 600 touch screen did not last and was replaced with a 17" to which I fitted an after market touch screen. You can see the home page of my personal Mach3 screenset.

The control computer is a Foxconn Micro ITX motherboard with on board dual core Atom processor. Laptop hard drive. XP. All mounted in a home made case, half of which is just cable tidy space. This all sits behind the monitor on the control swing arm. All very tidy and out of harms way.

If the SmoothStepper ever gets the firmware finished, then the one I have sitting on the shelf will go in there as well. Up till now the LPT has been used. This little MoBo handles Mach3 via LPT no worries.

The best thing I ever did was get a proper high frequency spindle.

This one is 1.5kw. Uses ER11 collets. 6000 - 24000 RPM. Running from a Hitachi VFD. All controlled by Mach3

Greg

.

Rodm1954
05-08-2010, 12:58 AM
Hi Greg,
Thanks for the update. There are quite a few of us in a parallel journey from that era and it is good to hear how in the longer term the machines are travelling. It seems that once the fever bites we keep upgrading as our knowledge increases and the cost reduces. A spindle was around $2k when we first built and ballscrews and linear rails were three times the current cost.

I like the idea of ITX board and will look into that.

Smoothstepper had an upgrade that has made it much less prone to problems but I am not sure the homing has been sorted. I just ram the gantry into the end of my machine to square it - gently of course. :)

I hope you keep plugging away breaking new ground as your posts are inspirational. Your Z axis touchplate, laser crosshair and rotary axis work are just a few projects that come to mind.

You only have laser, plasma and a five axis machine to complete your portfolio and then you can have a break for Xmas. :)

epineh
05-08-2010, 04:42 AM
You only have laser, plasma and a five axis machine to complete your portfolio and then you can have a break for Xmas. :)

Don't forget the 3D laser scanner :D

Russell.

Khalid
05-08-2010, 08:20 AM
hmmm..Russell
You can find in my portfolio
www.my-woodcarving.blogspot.com
;)

epineh
05-08-2010, 06:14 PM
Hi Khalid, wow, I knew you were busy but I didn't realise just how busy you have been !

Good work :D

I don't think I can really add to Greg's list of things to do as my second router is still in pieces in the shed with no sign of progress for a while due to being so busy at work...

Cheers.

Russell.