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edwardpic
10-23-2006, 11:19 AM
Hey all,
Lets use this thread to exchange ideas, tips, tricks and keep in touch about our Dynatorch machines.

Ed
whome124@aol.com

Dynatorch_Greg
10-23-2006, 04:06 PM
Hello All,
My name is Greg and I am the Production Manager here at Dynatorch. I was told about this forum by Edwardpic. I would like to thank him for the info. My purpose for being here is to offer a little tech support to the Dynatorch customers and also tell of new software updates and get feedback from all of you about our product so I can go back to the partners that run this company with customer generated ideas on how to make our product better. I look very forward to working with all of you.


Thanks,
Greg

edwardpic
10-23-2006, 04:29 PM
Welcome Greg!!!
There are a few of us now in here, good we can keep intouch and throw ideas around.
Let me know when the plates will ship, sorry I was busy when you called. Also I need the 4 hard stop brackets as well, if you have them I can install them and shim the plate like you said to get up and running.
Back to wiring, we are running dedicated circuits for the computer-plasma.

Edward Pic

magma-joe
10-23-2006, 10:34 PM
Welcome Dynatorch Greg,
Great to have you on the forum. How is the new shop you guys moved into? I'm looking forward to sharing info with all the Dynatorchers. Also there is nothing like a little imput from the factory. I like the fact that Dynatorch is always trying to improve their system. Are any of you guys going to the Fabtech show in Atlanta next week? http://www.fmafabtech.com/

Dynatorch_Greg
10-24-2006, 09:25 AM
Hello Magma Joe,
Its good to be here thank you for the welcome. The new shop is coming along very well. We are still in the process of putting things away and getting set up , but we can already see how much we are going to benefit from all of the extra space. Walt and Leon will be at Fabtech for sure. I do have a ticket myself , but it is still up in the air as to whether or not I will be able to go. I would like to because Ive never been to one before. Anyway, Has anyone among the Dynatorch users had a chance to play with the windows xp style version of the software yet? Before our software had a windows 2000 look to it. This new version looks alot sleeker. It has all the same features of previous versions, just looks alot better. Also Another new version of our software is now available. Version 320212 contains a new conversion algorithm for converting existing g-codes, (such as those from Burny files) for conversion to code compatible with our machine. For instance, we use G23 and G25 to raise and lower the torch, others use M3/M4 or M70/M71 or M66/M67 and even M9/M10. We also use absolute coordinates for X and Y and incremental dimensions for I and J, others use combinations of the two. We use decimal points in our coordinates, others assume 4 decimal places, but do not use the period. We can now convert most these files over in our Modify G-Code section of the Converter. We also fixed a small bug in the Library for the OxyFuel cutting. It seems some values were not being assigned when the selection was made. And a bug in the DXF converter with Ellipses was found and cured (Thanks Sam). So I guess thats all thats going on here.
Greg

bossfrog
10-24-2006, 10:28 AM
Hey Greg, nice to have you here. My Dynatorch is finally coming online after a steep learning curve with both the EnRoute nesting software and just learning to run a plasma. I am running 14ga with the Hypertherm finecut tips, and will start some production parts on 7ga soon. Need to tweak in the 40A tips with 10ga after that, but it is going pretty well now.

Let me know if any of you guys ever get up to the great white north (Wisconsin) where the weather has been frightful lately.

edwardpic
10-24-2006, 11:48 AM
Hey guys,
Got my gantry spaced out 3/8 of an inch with an aluminum plate i sheared and milled out. Now the gantry moves freely up and down the X axis. Also sheared up 3 sheats of 3/16 mild steel for the slats, good thing I have a 6ft 3/16 cap hydraulic shear here. All wiring is done re: 20ft ground rod, dedicated 110 and 220 circuits for the system and plasma, just still waiting on the PM 1000 to arrive. controller is wired up to the computer and motors, waiting to button up the plastic wire guide when the PM comes and can run the torch lead. I cant wait to at least run this machine!!!!

Ed

magma-joe
10-24-2006, 10:19 PM
I'm curious what style machines do you guys have? Are they single or dual x axis driven, standard or drop side? Edwardpic, Scorpion, what Cadcam software are you guys using? I have a standard gantry, with Onecnc for Cadcam software.

edwardpic
10-25-2006, 09:28 AM
Magma,
I have a drop side single X drive gantry/table. I also use Autocad 2005, and sheetcam for nesting/arrays. Havent figured out how to use Dynas' software to array multuple parts, and the fact I have to click each item to make a cut path takes alot of time. Most of my drawings have lots of holes/slots/rounded corners. Plus when i convert a drawing to G code for some reason the construction lines or old dimension lines are visible, but when opened in cad they arent there. Guess tweaking is the key.

Ed

bossfrog
10-25-2006, 11:06 AM
Mag:
I have a drop-side, single drive too. I built my table to their plans, and bought their air handling table. I use Solidworks for my CAD software. The Dynatorch software is not really meant for production nesting of parts, and I could only get it to nest one part at a time. I quickly decided that I needed a more comprehensive nesting and vector software, so I bought EnRoute per Dynatorch's recommendation. The software is a little clunky to learn, but does a nice job of converting and manipulating bitmaps to vectors, doing the offsets, and nesting lots of parts is a breeze. They are now offering WE-CIM software, which I don't know anything about.

edwardpic
10-25-2006, 10:09 PM
Well heres an update:
PM 1000 came today, finished the controller connections and power connection for the PM. Everything went great. Went to do the set-up on the machine, moved gantry to the center and powered the contoller on and started the software. Red lights are on on the motors, but NO movement either X or Y, went right by the manual and nothing.
Needless to say I am not a happy camper right now. Lets hope that Dyna can tell me whats wrong and the thing will come to life. What I have noticed is the manual no where near matches the software settings wise. The help files that give you the settings are much different then the manual. Also there is an extra pin on the controller but one wire short in the plug. I spent 2 hours checking wiring and re-checking wiring. Finally gave up and went home with the machine sitting silent.
Ill post what the problem was tomorrow, if we can get it worked out. Almost seems like the software is still in symulation mode even though its registered and should work.
Wish me luck!!!
Ed

magma-joe
10-25-2006, 11:54 PM
Edwardpic, I was wondering about the manual. It seems they frequently update their software with new features, but how often does Dynatorch update the manual to reflect the changes? Does the manual you can download from their website cover the latest additions? Thats a good question for Dynatorch Greg. Maybe Greg can pipe in on this one. Thanks..

edwardpic
10-26-2006, 09:03 AM
Magma,
The manual I have has alot of revision lines, as in replace this, put picture here, changed must update. Also the legend does not match the pages. When you open the help file and scroll to machine settings, they are very different, and the software I have has more options then the manual under machine setup has. If I could get the machine running re: gantry move during the setup, I would be a little happier. I am still waiting on the hard stops that didnt come with the machine to arrive. I dont think the gantry was run before shipping, it definately would not have slid along the X on this table, I had to shim the drop side plate for it to move more then 6".
Today is a new day, and I am sure Dyna will give me the info needed to start to use the machine. Lets see what today brings.

Ed

bossfrog
10-26-2006, 09:52 AM
Ed:
Greg had told me to call Leon when ready to start the machine for the first time - Leon walked me through all the proper setups (yes they are different than the manual) and it fired up no problem. I have his number if you need it. Just a crazy thought, do you have your controller box powered up and on? I think that their software guru Leon gets so buried in questions that the manual documentation lags behind.

Dynatorch_Greg
10-26-2006, 02:10 PM
Hello all,
To answer Magma Joes question about the software helpfiles: No the hardcopy of the manual is NOT up to date. Our software developer , Mike is always adding updates and new features to the software. To keep the manual up to date we would need a full time writer. What we are talking about doing is keeping an up to date downloadable manual on our website. It will be available very soon. Anybody who has version 3202xp or any of the versions after that has the updated help files. The thing is most of our updates and all of our new features are because of customer generated ideas. If there is a little something you would like to have in the software , some type of feature , tell me. We can discuss it here and I will pass the word on to Mike and he will see what he can do. Share your ideas with me people,I want to make our product as customer friendly as possible and I think this is a great forum to do so.Thanks Guys
Greg

edwardpic
10-26-2006, 04:22 PM
Greg,
Thank you very much for getting the machine working with me this morning. I had a few problems with collition, but changed the SP and it seemed to help, also had the wrong tip in the torch. I need to order some 40 amp tips, all I have here is 60.
steel cuts good, but had problems with losing the arc on aluminum, I was trying to cut 3/16 aluminum and lost the arc, but the gantry still moved. Guess settings for 3/16 and 1/4 aluminum are precise, if you have a solutuion please send, or post them in here like we talked about earlier.
Thanks again for the help!!!!!!
Ed

edwardpic
10-26-2006, 09:42 PM
UPDATE:
Cut alot of parts out of 3/16 mild steel. Then cut a small sign out of 3/16 aluminum, only had a couple problems with diving on the aluminum, but messed with it and got a real nice cut and barely any dross.
Needless to say I was at the shop late cutting parts, damn how time flys when having fun. After a rocky start I am definately happy with the machine and especially want to send a Big Thanks to Greg and Walt for all their help.
Tomorrow starts the parts cutting for my company, probably be doing the 16-14 and 12 gauge stuff. My order of 5x10 steel sheets arrived about 5.
Question: What size are you guys using for your material slats? Remember I dont have the air table, I used 3/16 and I think that was a little too thick really seemed to effect the cuts/dross when passing over them.
Thanks all,
Ed

PlasmaGuy
10-26-2006, 11:33 PM
Edward,

10 ga. x 3" I buy a 5x10 sheet and shear them up. My table is set on 3" centers and this works OK.

Sounds like your system is moving along great!

Tom

edwardpic
10-27-2006, 08:32 AM
Tom,
Thats what I did and sheared mine at 4". Just thought they might be too thick because thats where the larger "clumps" of dross are.

Ed

PlasmaGuy
10-27-2006, 09:14 AM
The dross chunks are a part of the headache. I keep a chipping hammer on the table and clean before the start of the project.

magma-joe
10-27-2006, 09:22 AM
Edwardpic, I have heard others complain of dross build up on the slats as well as the change in the quality of the cut as it passes over the slat. I have cut 1" high points in my slats spaced 6" apart and staggered. My friend with the plasma cam had worked around anouther cnc plasma before getting his plasmacam which comes with pointed slats. He said the points made a big difference and to be sure to try them on my table that I built. The plasmacam software even shows the table points in the Cad part of the software. When his points ware off he he has some 1" by 3" pieces he cut with a slot in the middle and a point on the end that drops in place on the slat with the worn point . Seems to work good for him. Once my table is up and running I can give some more feedback. Keep us updated on your progress. Same for Bossfrog, and where is scorpion?

edwardpic
10-27-2006, 09:35 AM
Magma,
Havent heard much from Scorpion. I just ordered some 1/4 steel and have a small peice of 3/8 id like to try. Have any settings for that thickness? Do you ever use the 60 amp tip with the PM 1000? I am going to the welding supply and get some 40 amp tips in about an hour. That should work better for the 3/16 i cut last night.

Ed

bossfrog
10-27-2006, 10:01 AM
I have some 40A tips that I bought for 10 ga, but haven't used them yet. Hypertherm recommends the 60A tip for 3/16". The 3/16" (7ga) I have cut so far worked pretty well with the 60A tips at about 142-145THC, .056 offset, and around 90-100ipm. Lots of slag on curvy parts, hardly any on straight cuts, but a twisted wire wheel takes it right off.

I have not used the Dynatorch as much as would have liked so far - remember I eat consumables very quickly. Will probably order the Eaton refrigerated air dryer that kcir recommended, and hopefully will increase my consumable life. I am ready to start making my own production parts, as purchased plasma parts supply is getting low now. Also plan to make some artsy patterns out of 14ga with the fine cuts, if I can make them last more than 10 minutes.

I think the idea of having points on the slats is good - I have some problems when a straight line falls right on a slat. I made a scraper about a foot wide with a long handle, and knock off slag before starting a new sheet. On small parts, I could see the points as being a problem.

edwardpic
10-27-2006, 10:23 AM
Yea, having it there and burning up tips can get frustrating. I only wasted one tip so far thats because of a crash on the first run. Since then Ive cut probably 20 parts out of 14G and the tip is holding up. I do use a tip cleaner from my Oxy torch to keep the hole round, and also used some tip spray like I do on my welder, the thicker dip in clogs the holes, but the spray keeps the splatter from sticking to the nozzle.
I ended up using the ref dryer on my main line for the whole shop, and used a Devilbiss clean air system for my plasma. Granted it does more the the ref system, and cost me $522 from my paint supply house. Nice thing is that every morning when I turn the air on it automatically drains the water out. This is good because I am lazy about that stuff.

Ed

magma-joe
10-27-2006, 03:04 PM
You guys might also check out this forum on plasma cutting over at Yahoo. Jim Colt who works for Hypertherm is one of the moderaters. He has some great posts on cnc plasma and Hypertherm products. Lots of great information. http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/plasmacutting/messages

tyler774
10-28-2006, 11:42 AM
A quick question for any of you running dual X drive motors on your Dynatorch table. When you first hooked everything up did all the motors function and if so did the motor movement match up with the jog buttons on the screen? Only 2 motors turned and not the ones I expected.

It's going to be another week before I'm able to install everthing on the table so was just doing a check to see if all my motors / cables are functional.
I am just curiuos if this is normal.

Tyler

magma-joe
10-28-2006, 02:30 PM
Tyler, Welcome to the group. I don't have the dual drive set up so I can't help you on that one. Hopefully someone else on the forum does and can chime in. Keep us updated on your Dynatorch system as you get it up and running. I have a few more weeks before mine will be ready to cut. Seems there are several of us here with new Dynatorches.

scorpion
10-29-2006, 01:28 AM
Magma,
Havent heard much from Scorpion. I just ordered some 1/4 steel and have a small peice of 3/8 id like to try. Have any settings for that thickness? Do you ever use the 60 amp tip with the PM 1000? I am going to the welding supply and get some 40 amp tips in about an hour. That should work better for the 3/16 i cut last night.

Ed

Sorry guys...been busy and we don't have internet at my shop. I should but I don't because I can't get it. Long story and way off subject...

I'm currently using 3" x 1/8" slats in my Dynatorch table. I've bent them slightly so they don't run square to the table and it works well. Dross buildup is a completely normal thing. They become a freakin' mess over time because of how the torch runs at different speeds during different operations. If you do a lot of smaller holes you'll have much more buildup due to the 30% decrease in speed the system cuts small holes at (it's configurable though). Also, if you're unlucky enough to cut down the length of one of your slats you'll pretty much destroy it.

Regarding cutting 3/16": I typically cut it with 60A consumables because the IPM is faster. Recently I ran out of them and had no choice but to run the 40 amp ones. To my suprise I was able to cut at 60IPM with the 40A ones and the dross came of fairly easy. I can tell you that the cut quality wasn't quite the same though that may be because 60IPM was probably on the fast side. As far as I can tell, as long as the amps are right to pierce the material and you can tolerate the slower cutting speeds, you could probably cut 3/16" with less amps than 40 - though I've not tried.

Regarding Air Dryers: I run a similar system to the guys at Dynatorch. I have a complete air drying system shortly after the air compressor and a roll wrap style filter at the plasma unit. After running the system wide open for a week I can take out the roll wrap filter and it's still dry. Prior to using the air dryer system I had to replace the roll wrap daily because it would be completely water logged. The better your drying system, the longer you'll cut with your consumables. At more than $10 per electrode/nozzle pair, how long would it really take you to pay for the dryer? I think I doubled or trippled consumable life if I had to guess.

Aluminum Cutting: How many of you have cut aluminum? Can you post up pics of the cut quality? I don't really have a need but I'm curious how the finished cut actually looks.

scorpion
10-29-2006, 01:39 AM
A quick question for any of you running dual X drive motors on your Dynatorch table. When you first hooked everything up did all the motors function and if so did the motor movement match up with the jog buttons on the screen? Only 2 motors turned and not the ones I expected.

It's going to be another week before I'm able to install everthing on the table so was just doing a check to see if all my motors / cables are functional.
I am just curiuos if this is normal.

Tyler

Tyler,

You can reverse the direction of the motor if yous is backwards. I don't think you can call it normal but it's not a problem. Which settings you need to change is another story. Since my manual & machine is at the shop I can't play with it to help you out but can check Monday. If you can't figure it out then you may want to ask Greg or call Leon (tech support). Either of them could probably tell you off the cuff.

edwardpic
10-29-2006, 12:32 PM
Scorpion,
I tried some 3/16 aluminum at the shop right after it was up and running. I made a quick circle in circle drawing and fired it up. Totally guessed on the settings and it cut pretty darn well. I have the appox settings jotted down at the computer station, or should I say written on the side with a marker. I'll try and snap a photo and post here, keep in mind It was the first cut, but looked pretty good. Hopefully next week I'll get the settings right in Sheetcam for the nesting. I am trying to work with Mike at Dyna to get sheetcam as a viable option for nesting-kerf compensation-multiple part nesting-etc. My thought is that if we as consumers or possible consumers of Dynatorch a option for a nesting program for $159 VS 2K or 3K dollars would spur sales. Like I say just my thinking as a business man.

Ed

scorpion
10-29-2006, 03:28 PM
Scorpion,
I tried some 3/16 aluminum at the shop right after it was up and running. I made a quick circle in circle drawing and fired it up. Totally guessed on the settings and it cut pretty darn well. I have the appox settings jotted down at the computer station, or should I say written on the side with a marker. I'll try and snap a photo and post here, keep in mind It was the first cut, but looked pretty good. Hopefully next week I'll get the settings right in Sheetcam for the nesting. I am trying to work with Mike at Dyna to get sheetcam as a viable option for nesting-kerf compensation-multiple part nesting-etc. My thought is that if we as consumers or possible consumers of Dynatorch a option for a nesting program for $159 VS 2K or 3K dollars would spur sales. Like I say just my thinking as a business man.

Ed

That's great news. From time to time there are parts that we'd prefer to make with Aluminum but since I really haven't tried, we just didn't. Probably the main reason is we don't have any laying around and since we don't cut it...circular isn't it? I'll go get a sheet next week and see what I can do with it.

EDIT: So I went to www.sheetcam.com. It appears that it has a few features such as ramped peircing and other gadgets that might be useful. What it really doesn't talk about is nesting and if it has a definable nesting order. I understand that it's smart enough to cut interior shapes prior to cuting the exterior one. What I'm wondering is if it will optimize the cut order of parts so you can optimize rapid traversal times.

If you can get a picture of the part you cut and post your initial run settings that would be awesome.

As for sheetcam...I have seen that many people have talked about it on this forum. What are the pro's of using it? Cost only? I use what comes with a torchmate system combined with AutoCAD. The torchmate software is fairly easy to create cut paths, lead-ins, and so on. Easy is good but if sheetcam is better for some obvious reason then I might be interested in switching over.

edwardpic
10-29-2006, 04:10 PM
Scorpion,
I will definately post what I have so far on Aluminum, at least the 3/16 I tried so far. Since I have a Dynatorch machine and not a Torchmate, I dont think I can use the Torchmate software to auto nest and creat lead ins/outs then import the DXF into Dyna's software to cut. You can try sheetcam free for 30 days and then buy after that, Les will give you a license that is good for 30 days.
The pro's of sheetcam are user defineable cut height-IPM-kerf compensation and nesting. The nesting is nice because it allows you to set the peice of steel you are using re: size relative to the table. This allows you to optimize the amount of peices for that size say you have a 24" x 45" piece of 14 gauge, you can rotate, move, and get the most out of that peice.
I have a few learning curves to use it with the Dynatorch software, but Les will help me with that next week. The peices I nested and tried to cut had an order problem, it may be my Cad drawing, so I import the part, create the cut path, then can email that to Les and he can decifer if it is a code problem or drawing problem. To me thats service. He had a post proccessor for my Dynatorch within 24 hours. That alone tells me that sheetcam is reliable and very helpfull.
Will post more next week.

Ed

scorpion
10-29-2006, 10:40 PM
Ed,

I do have a Dynatorch but I used to have a Torchmate. There's a feature in Dynatorch that allows a user to import/convert a pre-nested file and that's what you have to use if you are using torchmate's (or other) software to create lead-in's, lead-out's, cut paths, and nesting outside of Dynatorch. So far it's all I have used in the Dynatorch converter...honestly I don't even know how the rest of it works. I figured I'd play with it when I get some time. As it stands now I have nearly 1,200 existing components that I cut during our production cycles so I really didn't want to have to do messy conversions or remappings of signed off designs.

We did, on the other hand, experience some interesting problems cutting our old files. Apparently with the new height control system being so fast I can run the torch exactly where it needs to be and the cut width is actually smaller than it was on my old system. Some of our parts no longer fit together in the jig because the tolerances changed. No biggie but it did catch me off guard a little.

I'll have to check out that sheetcam...

edwardpic
10-30-2006, 02:24 PM
Ok here are a couple pics of the Aluminum I cut as a test. Its 3/16 and the settings were:
60 amp tip
SP-147
Feedrate-65
Machine on-40
Cut height-3/16


Ed

edwardpic
10-30-2006, 05:49 PM
Update:
For those of you who want to try sheetcam with your Dynatorch system it's all good. Import-Nest all the parts you want just DO NOT click the ramp lead-in button during set-up. That was my problem all along, it was causing the torch to fire then stop. After Mike (Dynatorch) and Les (sheetcam) worked together all it was was a simple button pushed on my part. All is good now, and I just used sheetcam to cut over 35 parts for my business.
I did find that the Fine cut tips DO NOT last very long. I am switching to 40 amp tips for up to 12 gauge and 60 amp for the thicker metals re: 1/4 and 3/8's. I am intimidated about cutting anything larger then 1/4, but this too shall pass.
So I was the ginny pig for sheetcam, all you guys can thank me now...lol.. And for $159 you cant beat it.


Ed

LeonD
10-30-2006, 06:23 PM
A helpful idea for you folks. If you want thinner slats or more stability in your slats, cut an extra slat holder. You have the machine we use to make these. Cut it in two pieces and weld together at the center. Then stitch on a piece of 1" wide flat bar to the bottom for stability. Extend the flat bar past the ends 2" and drill a hole. Bolt this in the center of your table (the long way) so that the end with the hole rests on top of the cross bar at each end. Now you can bend the slats so that the are not straight across the table. Instead they form an arc. This allows you to use thinner stock also. It stiffens the whole slat set.

We make the slots wide enough for 3/16 material as we do not know if you are going to put 22 ga or 2" material on the table and need to allow for thick slats to support heavy plates. I hope that helps.

Always improving the breed. I will post again later about how to save all system settings in a file in case you loose the PC someday.

Leon

scorpion
10-31-2006, 09:07 AM
Ok here are a couple pics of the Aluminum I cut as a test. Its 3/16 and the settings were:
60 amp tip
SP-147
Feedrate-65
Machine on-40
Cut height-3/16


Ed

Cool. Your results prove my single test cut of 1/8" about a year ago had the same results. What I see in your pictures is a some-what grainy finish to the aluminum...almost as if the torch "tears" the material instead of cutting it. It should work well for me to use the system to cut blanks that then get machined. It will save a lot of time and expense.

scorpion
10-31-2006, 09:10 AM
I am intimidated about cutting anything larger then 1/4, but this too shall pass.

Ed

The first time you cut 1/2" plate and see the finish you'll think differently about cutting thicker materials. We've actually cut many heavy duty parts since I figured out I could do that. Heck, I cut a 2.125" wrench I needed two weeks ago. Cutting the thick stuff works slick. Give it a shot. Set your movement delay in the torch settings to 1 second and increase your pierce height to 4/16". IPM in the 30 to 35 range and you'll be cutting 1/2".

Matt

edwardpic
10-31-2006, 09:43 AM
Matt,
yea a little grainy, but that cut was done before i really set the machine up, and was able to use sheetcam. I basically cut it out said cool and jotted down the settings.
I do have some 1/4 and 3/8 to cut. I havent even attempted thos thicknesses yet, was hoping somebody that has can give me what they have found: SP-Feedrate-Tip-Machine Voltage-Cutting height. Would help alot and save me alot of time messing up steel. Like I said the thicker stuff is intimidating right now.

Ed

bossfrog
10-31-2006, 09:45 AM
Scorpion - cool ! I don't have a need for anything 1/2" (yet), but nice to know it can be done. Do you remember what your offset and THC were set at?

scorpion
10-31-2006, 08:37 PM
Matt,
yea a little grainy, but that cut was done before i really set the machine up, and was able to use sheetcam. I basically cut it out said cool and jotted down the settings.

Ed

I'll get more data on Aluminum in the next month or so.



Scorpion - cool ! I don't have a need for anything 1/2" (yet), but nice to know it can be done. Do you remember what your offset and THC were set at?



By offset do you mean pierce height? I posed most of my settings on another thread but this is a good place to put them since they apply to the dynatorch system. Maybe we can get LeonD to post up his settings since he's the one that
Designed the system
Likely has more cutting hours logged on one of these tables than all of us put together * 100


Voltage Height: For the most part I try to leave it alone at the factory set 132/133 range. The closer to the material, the better the cut. All of these heights are using this voltage except 1/2" and 3/8". For those thicknesses I tend to bump it up to 138.

Keep in mind when reading that when I dial in a cut speed it's to have the dross removal as easy as possible and as minimal as possible. I have a Hypertherm Powermax 1000, use a high-end air drying system just off the compressor and use a small paper roll dryer at the plasma cutter.

For 1/8":
IPM Range - 100 to 145
Optimal IPM - 120
Consumables - 60amp
Amps - 60
Pierce Height - 3/16 to 4/16
Pierce Delay - 0 seconds

For 3/16" (60AMP Consumables):
IPM Range - 70 to 95
Optimal IPM - 80
Consumables - 60amp
Amps - 60
Pierce Height - 3/16
Pierce Delay - .25 seconds

For 3/16" (40AMP Consumables):
IPM Range - 55 to 65
Optimal IPM - 60
Consumables - 40amp
Amps - 40
Pierce Height - 3/16
Pierce Delay - .25 seconds

For 1/4":
IPM Range: 60 - 85
Optimal IPM - 70
Consumables - 60amp
Amps - 60
Pierce Height - 3/16
Pierce Delay - .25 seconds

For 3/8":
Tested IPM Range - ~45 - 50
Optimal - Not enough data to determine
Consumables - 60amp
Amps - 60
Pierce Height - 3/16 to 4/16
Pierce Delay - .85 seconds

For 1/2":
IPM Range - 30 to 35
Optimal - No difference in IPM Range, dross sucks to get off
Consumables - 60amp
Amps - 60
Pierce Height - 3/16 to 4/16
Pierce Delay - 1 second

A little more info for you -

I use .125" overlap on my cut path. Helps eliminate the ramping in marks on the part
I do use a lead in and lead out.
I added a middle support to my 5x10 table like LeonD eluded to a few threads up. Doing so I was able to stagger the slats to make them arc'd instead of straight.
I'm running the collision detection unit. I was skeptical as to how well it would work initially but as it turns out, it's extremely effective. I managed to crash at rapid travel once and nothing was damaged. I did have to restart my heart though as I couldn't get to the e-stop in time and I could see it coming.
I have the 5x10 drop side gantry/table
I painted it safety yellow (stands out!)
I'm running the 5x10 vacume table plummed through the roof
I run an easy lock magnet ground clap (sweet!)


I'll post pictures of the table in the next couple of weeks (shortly after I remember to take the camera to work).

edwardpic
10-31-2006, 08:51 PM
Scorpion,
You are the man THANKS!!! I emailed Leon and asked if he could help on the settings, like you stated and very true, he had tons more time on these machines then us. I also use a magnetic ground clamp, I do on all 4 of my mig and tig welders. Had mine powdercoated bright red (cost me 100 bucks) Believe it or not I use Skirted sides, and a drum fan and thats it. I have virtually no smoke at all in the shop. I also have my son do the dirty job of blowing the machine off, and sweep up every night before we close (kids are good for the grunt work)
I found that tip spray like I use on my welders works great for slag not sticking to the tips. I will try and post pics of my setup as well, but dont crack on my computer station, quickly built out of 3/4 sanded plywood.
I'll wait for Leon to get back with me about the settings from DT.
once again you are the man and thanks!!!

Ed

edwardpic
10-31-2006, 08:59 PM
Scorpion,
One more thing. Do you ever find the need for using the fine cut tips? I used them so far on the 14 and 16 gauge I use for my handicapped vehicles. I guess im starting with the small gauge stuff first. Then move on to the thicker more intimidating metal.

Ed

LeonD
10-31-2006, 09:48 PM
Scorpions numbers are pretty good. There are a lot of variables that contribute to a "good" setup. If cutting artwork, you will generally run slower and accept more dross than when cutting machine parts. This is in order to get better detail. We already incorporate automatic proportional slowdown (APS) in our newer software versions (see advanced settings page). This slows the cut in small holes proportional to the hole size. It also locks out the THC during these cuts to avoid crash from slower feedrates. This helps reduce bevel on bolt holes and slots but adds dross. Sorry, it's one or the other.

That being said, you can see that one setup might be OK for you and not someone else. Further, tip quality and consumable set selection is a factor. I will offer some general information.

I always try to use the smallest nozzle for the given material thickness. If the charts show it can be cut with no less than 60 amps (40 will not make it) then I use the 60 amp. If 40 works, then I will use "Fine line" consumable set (applies to Hypertherm only). That's good up to and including 1/8" material. When possible, I also use extended consumables up to 1/4" plate. Then I switch to standard sheilded set for over 1/4" plate to reduce tip damage at pierce. After selecting the amperage tip, I set the amperage. You can reduce amps a bit to help life. Never reduce amps by more than 15 on a 60 amp or larger. On a 40 amp, you can go to 20 but that's as low as the plasma will allow in most cases and is only used on thin (<24 ga) material. If you want 60, do not use an 80 amp tip, use a 60. By the way, that knob is not a precision calibrated device.

Set air pressure as recommended for that set of consumables.
Pierce height generally runs 3/16. I increase to 4/16 at 3/8 plate and maybe 5/16 for over 3/8 plate. It is just to avoid splash. If your system cannot jump more than 4/16 to start, that will be your limit. Some will not.

Arc voltage. Getting a bit more complex. For all sheilded consumables I generally run at 135V unless cutting thick material or running extra reduced speeds. Then add some voltage. 140 for 3/8 plate and 145 for thicker. For unsheilded or fine-line, I run 90-100V. Less if the cut deems it. I change on the fly to get it down close but no less than 1/16". Generally I use the book values or add 5 to avoid crashes. It's always safer to start high rather than low.

For feedrates we really have some fun. The book is always high as they want to sell plasmas and beat out the competition. I subtract 20% from the "recommended" (not maximum) values and never exceed 200 IPM. On anything thicker than 22ga I run under 150 IPM. If the detail is required slow a bit more.

Now for some additional info. The later versions have the "library" button that will save the present values as any name and build a reference library you can select at will. This is a quick way to get back that best setting. You can save as many as you like and call then what you like.

In addition, there are some lesser known codes in G-code available.
G24 Z-2.25 will send the torch rapid to the -2.25 Z axis position. Coordinates from 0 to -4 are acceptable but watch for crash at lower limits.

G25 Z-x.xxx same as above where x.xxx is position. Z command is optional. This does a partial retract and ends the cut.

G26 or M26 turn on THC
G28 or M28 turn off THC
Use these in the program at the point where you want to change states.

M25 Px.xx sets pierce delay to x.xx seconds

I have to ask Mike again, but we also have the ability to set the arc voltage using a code.

There is more in the users guide available on our downloads page.

Leon

scorpion
10-31-2006, 10:10 PM
Scorpion,
Believe it or not I use Skirted sides, and a drum fan and thats it. I have virtually no smoke at all in the shop. I also have my son do the dirty job of blowing the machine off, and sweep up every night before we close (kids are good for the grunt work)
I found that tip spray like I use on my welders works great for slag not sticking to the tips. I will try and post pics of my setup as well, but dont crack on my computer station, quickly built out of 3/4 sanded plywood.
I'll wait for Leon to get back with me about the settings from DT.
once again you are the man and thanks!!!

Ed

Hey, I won't knock the skirted sides and drum fan. On my last table put an attic fan through the wall opposing a window right by the table (small room). The cross circulation kept any smoke from building up. It worked about as well as the air handler I have with this table. Big difference though is the cleanup. With the air handler I seem to clean it out nearly 1/3 as often as I did before. I'm guessing that more of the particulate is making it's way out the ceiling.

Tip spray...I have NO IDEA why I never thought of that. It almost makes too much sense. I will try it tomorrow and probably get another can for the plasma table. Great idea.

I'll never give a man a hard time about how he builds his shop. Right now I'm using wood as a spark sheild - you have nothing to worry about.



Do you ever find the need for using the fine cut tips?


Funny you should mention them. I ordered Hypertherm's starter pack today to give them a go. The 16ga that I cut with the standard 40amp consumables are making them hell to clean the dross off of. From what I've heard they should do the trick. I'll know next week.

Matt

edwardpic
10-31-2006, 10:22 PM
Matt,
The 14 and 16 gauge I cut had almost no dross with the fine cuts. I asked cause you cut larger material then me. I tell ya that tip spray saved my tips big time, I even spray them after each nest of parts. Keep in mind I cut like 12 nested 16 gauge parts at a time..Give the plasma cutter a break and spray the tip again before the second run of 12. May be overkill just a tad, but hey tips=money right? The order of tips-electrodes-nozzles that just came in was $320 and thats not including the $147 for the fine cut tips.
I hear ya on clean up, thats why I had a son...;) He is 19 and I just put him through welding school, now Im showing him the Press brake and the shear. he still has a learning curve with the controller based back gauge. It WILL BE a long time for he touches Dads new toy!!!

scorpion
10-31-2006, 10:22 PM
We already incorporate automatic proportional slowdown (APS) in our newer software versions (see advanced settings page). This slows the cut in small holes proportional to the hole size. It also locks out the THC during these cuts to avoid crash from slower feedrates. This helps reduce bevel on bolt holes and slots but adds dross. Sorry, it's one or the other.


I use this and it works very well. I have found that if you have your initial speed set to minimize dross even the holes aren't very difficult to clean 3/16" and 1/4".



When possible, I also use extended consumables up to 1/4" plate. Then I switch to standard sheilded set for over 1/4" plate to reduce tip damage at pierce.


Extended consumables? What's the advantage for using them? I don't believe I've ever ordered/run a set but I have seen them in the consumables list.

edwardpic
10-31-2006, 10:24 PM
Leon,
Thank you very much for your post between you and Matt I have a couple new cheat sheets to tack up on the computer station!!!

scorpion
10-31-2006, 10:28 PM
Matt,
The 14 and 16 gauge I cut had almost no dross with the fine cuts. I asked cause you cut larger material then me.

That will be awesome. I'm tired of cleaning those parts! I do mostly cut 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4" components but one of our products is heavy on the 16ga because it helps keep the weight down. If the dross is minimal on the 16ga then it will probably save me about 4 hours a week and that's a savings I can put dollars and cents to.


May be overkill just a tad, but hey tips=money right? The order of tips-electrodes-nozzles that just came in was $320 and thats not including the $147 for the fine cut tips.

I just received a box of consumables that cost about that much today. It's the consumable cost that drives me to spend as much time as I can figuring out ways to extend their life. The air dryer worked wonders and likely saved me the most. If Mike from Dynatorch is right and I can get a couple of weeks out of the fine cut consumables then I'll be flippin' out.

Matt

edwardpic
11-01-2006, 01:47 PM
Matt,
Your settings for the 3/8's were dead on. I cut some upper a-arm mounts for the race cat shop behind me. I am very suprised at the quality, hardly any dross, and whats there came off easy with a wire wheel. Cant thank you enough. I am going to try some 1/4 later today.
Let me know how the tip spray worked for you, I know its saved my consumables so far.

edwardpic
11-02-2006, 09:23 AM
Hey guys,
Also found out last night that when I spray the tips with the tip spray and also shoot a light coat on the steel it reduces the top splatter and also the dross. Should have bought one of these machines a year ago. For reference the same parts I cut out of 1/4 steel last night (for my wheelchair tiedown business) cost me $17. Those same parts from the waterjet company would have been $225. I am very pleased with a little clean up that amount of money can be saved. Will definately help the bottomline!!

Matt:
Did you try the tip spray yet? Oh and the settings for 1/4 were dead on too, I did adjust the feedrate a little slower but damn nice cutes. Thanks again!!

magma-joe
11-02-2006, 03:03 PM
Edwardpic, scorpion, thanks for all the updates, thats a great idea to spray the tips. The cutting specs you guys posted along with Leon's are a great help for those of us who have not made the 1st cuts yets. I also like Leon's suggestion of the center slat support. I 'm right at the point in my table build where I can add that.

edwardpic
11-03-2006, 08:12 PM
Magma,
Scorpion's (Matt) posted numbers are dead on. I personally used them myself with the exception of I used the fine cut tips for up to 12gauge.
**Tip Spray** Seems to be working great, I actually cut 4 full sheets, 5x10 1/4 thick and still the 60 amp tip looks like brand new. I ordered a case (6) today from the welding supply.
Now to get the settings right for 1/8 and 3/16 Aluminum I will be a happy camper. So far the parts I have cut for my companies I have saved $1900 VS having them waterjetted like before(in 1 week). Even made $150 from cutting some 3/8 thick upper A-arm brackets for the shop behind mine. Was a GOOD week.

scorpion
11-03-2006, 10:01 PM
Magma,
Scorpion's (Matt) posted numbers are dead on. I personally used them myself with the exception of I used the fine cut tips for up to 12gauge.
**Tip Spray** Seems to be working great, I actually cut 4 full sheets, 5x10 1/4 thick and still the 60 amp tip looks like brand new. I ordered a case (6) today from the welding supply.
Now to get the settings right for 1/8 and 3/16 Aluminum I will be a happy camper. So far the parts I have cut for my companies I have saved $1900 VS having them waterjetted like before(in 1 week). Even made $150 from cutting some 3/8 thick upper A-arm brackets for the shop behind mine. Was a GOOD week.

Sorry guys, haven't been around for a few days. I'm attempting to purchase a CNC Lathe so I've been a little distracted. ;)

Glad to hear that the settings worked for you. We sponsor a couple of race teams and they're constantly requesting we cut custom parts like that for them....

As for making money, a system like the Dynatorch certainly opens up some opportunity to do that. If you can cut, weld, form, and do your own CAD work (and powdercoat like some of you), your imagination is really your only limitation. I've never really tried to go back and figure out what the last table made me over the years but I can say that after using the Dynatorch for a month and a half, it has at least 3 times the potential as my last one and I haven't even dabbled in aluminum yet. Probably the most difficult part about having a table is figuring what to charge someone to put their napkin scratch into CAD. Our standard shop rate is $65 per hour but about a month ago we started charging $100 per hour for CAD work if they can't do it themselves. If we don't, we never make money.

I almost forgot to tell you guys this!! We're constantly trying to improve the quality of our parts and components and, even though the Dynatorch has some trick features for making holes more accurately, we've started to use the system to pierce the center of the critical holes only so they can be accurately punched in an iron worker after they come off the table. I've found that the smallest hole you can cut is .085 which leaves a beautiful round pin-hole that lines up with the punch-tip rather nicely. If you need holes to be tight around a bolt, try punching them after the table pierces them. It works awesome on 1/4" and smaller. 3/8" isn't bad but the pierce isn't as true though the plate. 1/2" isn't worth doing unless you have something bigger than a Powermax 1000. I'm sure a 1250 or larger would do much better.

edwardpic
11-03-2006, 10:21 PM
Matt,
I hear you about what to charge, I made a few chicken scratch to Cad drawings for a few close friends. Seems in my neck of the woods people have heard that I have the table and have been just "stopping bye". It looks like a few local bike builders and car shops want me to do work for them. I was charging $73 per hour labor (Florida) but seems I'm going to bump it up to $95 an hour. It's wierd you cut one horse shape for a girl, now they all want stuff for their stalls, barns etc.
We have a 30ton punch press with dies, but I found that running a uni-bit through the holes after cutting is pretty quick. I did 30 parts today all had 5/16 and 3/8 holes, took all of 20 minutes. I was even thinking of selling the punch press, between the 8ft 50 ton press brake and the shear we hardly use it. Might even trade a guy by me for a Kalamazoo cold saw.
I am going to try some aluminum next week, I have some scrap 3/16 and a 4x10 sheet of 1/4 I bought 6 months ago and never used. Matt, you find anything out on aluminum please post and I'll post what I find, oh and let me know how you like the fine cut tips.
I'll try and post pics of what I cut so far next week as well.

magma-joe
11-03-2006, 10:43 PM
I was recently looking at some info on a Hypertherm Arc Writer for marking parts. http://www.hypertherm.com/languages/english/arcwriter.php Do any of you guys know if you can just turn the amperage way down on the plasma and write or mark the surface of your material without cutting thru? The Hypertherm Arcwriter has its own torch which would require 2 torches on the machine, one for cutting and one for marking. It would be great if you could cut and mark with the same torch. Anybody ever try this or know of a way to use just one torch? I would like to mark my parts with my company logo.

scorpion
11-04-2006, 11:38 AM
Matt,
I hear you about what to charge, I made a few chicken scratch to Cad drawings for a few close friends. Seems in my neck of the woods people have heard that I have the table and have been just "stopping bye". It looks like a few local bike builders and car shops want me to do work for them. I was charging $73 per hour labor (Florida) but seems I'm going to bump it up to $95 an hour. It's wierd you cut one horse shape for a girl, now they all want stuff for their stalls, barns etc.
We have a 30ton punch press with dies, but I found that running a uni-bit through the holes after cutting is pretty quick. I did 30 parts today all had 5/16 and 3/8 holes, took all of 20 minutes. I was even thinking of selling the punch press, between the 8ft 50 ton press brake and the shear we hardly use it. Might even trade a guy by me for a Kalamazoo cold saw.
I am going to try some aluminum next week, I have some scrap 3/16 and a 4x10 sheet of 1/4 I bought 6 months ago and never used. Matt, you find anything out on aluminum please post and I'll post what I find, oh and let me know how you like the fine cut tips.
I'll try and post pics of what I cut so far next week as well.

We have an automatic cold saw. Nice machine. I think I'd trade it for an automatic bandsaw if I had a choice. The cold saw does leave a nice finish but you have to swap blades and turn them around when you go from .120 wall to the thicker stuff. Since we use .250 wall and solid stock for various components I'm always switching blades and it gets old. The cold saw is great if you're using it to make sleeves or something that requires no second process as the finish is machine quality ('cept the edges are sharp). Anyway, that's my $0.02 on a cold saw since you mentioned it.

Yeah I'll post info when I cut the aluminum. I was thinking of getting some on Monday and giving it a shot next week.



I was recently looking at some info on a Hypertherm Arc Writer for marking parts...

Does anyone have a price on this? It would appear to be a high-def component thus making it quite expensive. This is exactly what we need for as many parts as we have though. I couldn't find info about it on the net other than it's specs. Where can you buy it?



Do any of you guys know if you can just turn the amperage way down on the plasma and write or mark the surface of your material without cutting thru?


Unfortunately not. At some point turn your plasma all the way down and watch how it works on a piece of test material. What it does is gouge. Gouging is good for cutting a weld (so you don't penetrate the material held together by the weld) but due to the amount of blowback you get by an uncontrolled plasma stream, there's no way to harness it to make it etch. I wish you could.

magma-joe
11-04-2006, 12:48 PM
Scorpion, I think the Arcwriter is around $3200.00. Seems like thats the price I was quoted about a year ago. I am going to check to be sure. It is only a 19 amp machine so it should'nt be to expensive.

scorpion
11-04-2006, 07:40 PM
Scorpion, I think the Arcwriter is around $3200.00. Seems like thats the price I was quoted about a year ago. I am going to check to be sure. It is only a 19 amp machine so it should'nt be to expensive.

I think $3200 is relatively expensive considering a Powermax 1000 can be had with machine torch for $2k plus shipping. Does anyone know anyone who's used an ArcWriter? I'm curious as to how long the consumables last. I found replacements on the net but they're nearly twice as much (expense) when compared to the PM1000. It would be awesome to be able to lay out a part completely in CAD making the assembly even less complicated than it already is for the welders.

LeonD
11-05-2006, 09:55 AM
Since it was requested, here is a set of conversions for metal gage to thickness. This is taken from my Central Steel & Wrie Co book.
All decimal thicknesses are in inches
Dashes (-) are used to separate columns only

Gage No.= NonFerrous(1)-Steel Sheet(2)-Strip/Tubing(3)-Steel Wire(4)
Ga= (1) (2) (3) (4)
3 = .2294 - .2391 - .259 - .2437
4 = .2043 - .2242 - .238 - .2253
5 = .1819 - .2092 - .220 - .2070
6 = .1620 - .1973 - .203 - .1920
7 = .1443 - .1793 - .180 - .1770
8 = .1285 - .1644 - .165 - .1620
9 = .1144 - .1495 - .148 - .1483
10=.1019 - .1345 - .134 - .1350
11=.0907 - .1196 - .120 - .1205
12=.0808 - .1046 - .109 - .1055
13=.0720 - .0897 - .095 - .0915
14=.0641 - .0747 - .083 - .0800
15=.0571 - .0673 - .072 - .0720
16=.0508 - .0598 - .065 - .0625
17=.0453 - .0538 - .058 - .0540
18=.0403 - .0478 - .049 - .0475
19=.0359 - .0418 - .042 - .0410
20=.0320 - .0359 - .035 - .0348
21=.0285 - .0329 - .032 - .0317
22=.0253 - .0299 - .028 - .0286
23=.0226 - .0269 - .025 - .0258
24=.0201 - .0239 - .022 - .0230
25=.0179 - .0209 - .020 - .0204
26=.0159 - .0179 - .018 - .0181
27=.0142 - .0164 - .016 - .0173
28=.0126 - .0149 - .014 - .0162
29=.0113 - .0135 - .013 - .0150
30=.0100 - .0120 - .012 - .0140
31=.0089 - .0105 - .010 - .0132
32=.0080 - .0097 - .009 - .0128
33=.0071 - .0090 - .008 - .0118
34=.0063 - .0082 - .007 - .0104
35=.0056 - .0075 - .005 - .0095
36=.0050 - .0067 - .004 - .0090

NonFerrous is Aluminum sheet, Brass(sheet/strip/wire/tube), Bronze(sheet/strip/wire), Copper (strip/tube/wire), Nickel Silver (sheet/wire)

Steel Sheets is Flat or coil, Hot roll or Cold roll

Tubing is Aluminum, steel, stainless steel, Bands, Flat wire, Strip (steel and stainless), spring steel sheet

Steel Wire is all finishes

-Leon-

bossfrog
11-05-2006, 05:04 PM
Got my refrigerated air dryer hooked up this weekend, with a Coalescing filter in front of it, and a desiccant filter just before the plasma. I fired up a new 40A fine cut tip, anxiously expecting some of the long life that Dyna and others have mentioned. The first tip only went my typical 10 minutes of cut time like usual, and second tip went even less! I tried another new tip today, and it seems to be holding up a little better, but still only at about 12 minutes with it.

A couple possibilities include that I may still have some dampness in the lines between the dryer and the plasma - about 25 feet of 3/4" pipe. It seems funny to me that my Eaton #28 dryer is only running about 25# to 35# of pressure - I assume this is the pressure of it's own internal compressor, but isn't this awful low? What do your dryers run for pressure? Maybe I need a freon charge?

edwardpic
11-06-2006, 10:22 AM
Ric,
Wow only 12 minutes? I just cut 3 sheets of 1/4 with a 60 amp tip and lasted through all 3 sheets and that was = to 45 parts. I am at a loss as to why your tips are going so quick. I dont use the ref dryer, but I do have a 3 stage filter system and my shop compressor is OLD and does produce alot of water, yet my plasma air is bone dry.
The tips I have trashed are mainly due to me, and not having the corrct SP voltage and thus diving. The 40 and 60 amp tips last along time for me at least, the only ones that go quick have been the fine cuts, but once again thats probably me and the settings for cut height. Even then I can cut a couple 5x10 sheets of either 14 or 16 gauge and not burn a tip.
I have been buying my tips from weldersource.com, and just received some 40amp unsheilded tips to try this week. I let the machine rest for a couple days, seeing how I cut every peice of sheet steel I had here last week. Good to go on parts now for 2 months.

Dynatorch_Greg
11-09-2006, 10:15 AM
November 3 2006 A new version of our software is now available. Version 320214 Fixed a problem if a DXF file was smaller than 1K in size. It also adds the G25 Zx.xxx (where x.xxx is a POSITIVE number) This will force the torch to make an incremental move up at the end of the cut path. The distance it moves up is the x.xxx value. Previous versions allowed G25 Z-x.xxx (-x.xxx. as a NEGATIVE number) which would move the torch to the -x.xxx value. This was an absolute move since the torch normally travels between 0 and -4.0, it was along that scale. Since adding the Z command to the every line of code with e G25 may be cumbersome, and not supported by all post processors, we also added a global, one time command to raise the torch an incremental amount. That command is M125 Px.xxx where x.xxx is the incremental distance the torch should raise when it reaches the end of the path. So if the torch was at -2.75 at the time the path ends, and the command M125P0.5 was issued at the beginning of the code, then it would raise to -2.25". And every time the G25 command is read again in the file, the torch will raise 0.5" from it's current location. For safety reasons it will never go above the home value (0). The M125 command will remain in effect until the complete file has been run, or a P value <= 0 is issued. The global M125 command will override (take precedence over) any G25Xx.xx command.

bossfrog
11-09-2006, 12:42 PM
Greg - I will download the latest version, as I have been getting some errors while cutting. I am working with Mike and Leon to try and troubleshoot.

I finally got the Hypertherm tech on the phone yesterday regarding my short consumable life, went through parts and assembly issues first, then air quality (both OK) - he thinks it might be some circuit board problem in the power supply. I am trying to get a replacement machine to try - sure hope it works.

bossfrog
11-09-2006, 12:48 PM
OK, I give up - how do you download the latest Dynatorch software?

Dynatorch_Greg
11-09-2006, 02:46 PM
Hey Ric,
You have to send me an e-mail. I will reply back to you with the correct link. greg@dynatorch.com

magma-joe
11-11-2006, 10:49 AM
Scorpion, I posted the question about the Hypertherm Arcwriter on the Yahoo forum, it appears to be a 3 phase only machine. Read Jim Colt's post "Jim works for Hypertherm" about the Arcwriter. http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/plasmacutting/message/2946

Bossfrog, have you figured out your short life consumables problem? I am still considering buying the same Eaton dryer unit as yours. Thanks...

bossfrog
11-11-2006, 12:19 PM
I talked to Hypertherm's tech support - their questions:
1. Correct swirl ring, torch assembly, and proper amps? yup, yup, yup
2. Dry air? yup
3. Suspect a circuit board problem in power unit.
They gave me a brand new plasma and took mine to the shop, and I am going to try it this weekend. It seems to me that since they jumped to that answer so quickly, there must be an outstanding issue with some of these Powermax 1000 units. I will post an update after I fire it up.

PlasmaGuy
11-11-2006, 08:38 PM
Ric,

Keep us informed on your c-board issues. My 1650 is on its third board and Hypertherm says they've fixed the problem.

Hypertherm has 1st class customer service.

Good luck,

Tom

bossfrog
11-12-2006, 04:35 PM
Fired up the new Hypertherm 1000, and have run probably 40 minutes of cut time so far on the first tip - the other machine burned up tips after 10 minutes. Hopefully it will keep going longer...

BTW - I have been burning up nozzles so fast, I don't know how to identify a bad electrode. Do you switch them with the nozzles, or is there a way to determine when it is done?

edwardpic
11-13-2006, 10:32 AM
Congrats Ric on the new machine working for you. I have a PM 1000 so Ill be looking for a problem like you described. I was told that 3 to 4 tips per electrode is a good starting point, but there is alot of variables. When I trashed a few tips from diving I changed the electrode, I look for a "PIT" or indentation on the electrode, Ive done this with my smaller handheld plasma for years. Try the tip spray as well, its worked wonders for me so far. Really keeps the slag off the tip/sheild.
heres the settings I found for 16 gauge:
Machine: 40 amp
Consumables: fine cut
SP: 100
Feedrate: 120-125
Start height: 3/16
Pierce delay: .25
Hardly any slag at all and great cuts. I bumped the SP up to 110 and the feedrate down to 110 for 14 gauge.

bossfrog
11-13-2006, 10:52 AM
I think I read somewhere and even saw some pictures of ugly looking electrodes that were still OK. Thought there was a measurement of how deep the core burns back in before it is shot - 3/32" or something? I am wondering if there is a measuring tool to use for this? I started gouging once this weekend with a newer nozzle and an older electrode, changed the electrode and it started working again.

Hypertherm recommends 79V THC and 135IPM for 14ga with finecut. I have been running 80V and about 110 - 120IPM. Yours works good with a THC of 100 - 110? That seems high, but might be why I burn up nozzles more often. Maybe I should increase my THC settings...

edwardpic
11-14-2006, 11:36 AM
Ric,
I cut some decorative peices with alot of curves and worked great with those settings. I was told by Leon that increase HT recomended voltage by 5 and to decrease the recomened speeds by as much as 20 to 25%. The settings I used were right in the ballpark, and no tip discolortion or ovaling. I cut 15 parts out at approx 14 wide X 20 high and still have more left in the tips. The tip spray helped alot as well.

magma-joe
11-18-2006, 09:23 PM
Bossfrog, did the new plasma solve your short consumable problem? There have been no new posts on the Dynatorches in the last few days. Scorpion, Edwardpic, and Bossfrog, did you guys get all the bugs worked out and running smooth? Whats your opinion of the Dynatorch now that you have had a chance to get up to speed? I'm still working on my table and I plan on installing a air dryer before I start cutting. Thanks...

edwardpic
11-18-2006, 09:41 PM
Magma,
All bugs with my system are gone. Mostly was a small learning curve and sharing information between us Dynatorch users. I use our machine daily, and have cut over 300 parts out so far. Tips are lasting along time which means the consumables cost has been very low. Ive cut everything from 16G to 3/8 mild steel, and have dabbled in some 3/16 aluminum. Im basically getting sheetcam and corel down, and the DT software is a breaze to use/understand. No problems with dry air or the PM 1000. I dont use a downdraft table like some users, I use a 24" axial paint both fan on one end pulling the smoke out one of my shop doors. No smoke when cutting to speak of, and all the horror stories of filling the shop with smoke and black film have been null for me. One thing I did do was to enclose the longer X axis sides with some 18 gauge galvanized to keep sparks under the table and not spreading out from the bottom. I use the DT software along side with sheetcam and the results for kerf comp, nesting, cut paths have been awesome. Hope that helps and I still have to post some pics of cut parts soon. I am backed up 12 vehicles with my business, and am also in the process of a total re-design of my electric wheelchair securement tie-down. We do alot of structural modifications on Silverado trucks for the handicapped, and make brackets for actuated remote control door operation. You guys can see what type of fabcrication we do on my website listed below. We are in the proto stages of the Dodge mega-cab as well as a wheelchair accessible Hummer. Needless to say this CNC plasma will make all future designs alot easier as time is money!!!

bossfrog
11-18-2006, 10:32 PM
Hypertherm replaced my Powermaxx 1000, and it works great now. Was using a nozzle every 10 minutes like clockwork, now I must have hours on this nozzle without a problem. Sounds like a circuit board problem with THC. Thanks to Edwardpic, bumped up my THC on 14 ga to 90 (from 80) and everything working great!

edwardpic
11-28-2006, 03:03 PM
Just bought Torchmates software to try and seems like a nice program. I have been using Sheetcam and Love It, also Corel draw works great, especially the Corel trace. I made a sign for my shop entrance and it cam out nice. I also am using the CandCNC DXF converter and thats saved alot of time as well. I have noticed that some of the traces the lines/arcs are not smooth and a little ragged when cut. Havent dolved into that yet.
I must say that after all the learning curves and software, all Dynatorch users need is a great forum like this to share idea's cutting settings and Sheetcam. The Dyna software and sheetcam together is a very easy way to nest parts and create the Post Proccessors needed. The library feature in the Dyna software is also a time saver-get the setting correct-save it-then everytime you cut that material its ready to go. I'm very happy and the machine has already saved me thousands.

magma-joe
11-28-2006, 11:06 PM
Edwardpic, I have been looking at the new software package that Dynatorch is offering. It's called WE-CIM. It has some real time saving features for the manufacturing area. One feature is called chain cutting, where the torch makes one pierce and continues the cut from part to part on a nested sheet(inside holes excluded of course) without stopping until the last part is finished. Seems like a consumables as well as time saver. Also has True Shape Nesting and a program to scan sketches for raster to vector conversion. I think I am going to purchase it so I'll let you know how well it works.

edwardpic
11-29-2006, 09:24 AM
Thanks Magma. I went with Sheetcam because the cut path-nesting and kerf compensation is quick and easy. I have not found the need for the more expensive WE-CIM software. Corel trace does all the raster-vector conversions we use. The WE-CIM looks like am awesome program, but I wanted to keep my costs down at the outset.

bossfrog
11-29-2006, 09:45 AM
I had purchased the EnRoute software per DynaTorch's suggestion. Pricey, but does all my conversions from DXF's and BMP into vector, allows simple modifications of the vector files, toolpaths, and nests. Nice to be all in one package, but it is too bad I bought just before their new software WE-CIM. I hate going with "last year's" model of anything, but too late now.

jemmyell
12-06-2006, 05:57 PM
Just bought Torchmates software to try and seems like a nice program. I have been using Sheetcam and Love It, also Corel draw works great, especially the Corel trace. I made a sign for my shop entrance and it cam out nice. I also am using the CandCNC DXF converter and thats saved alot of time as well. I have noticed that some of the traces the lines/arcs are not smooth and a little ragged when cut. Havent dolved into that yet.
I must say that after all the learning curves and software, all Dynatorch users need is a great forum like this to share idea's cutting settings and Sheetcam. The Dyna software and sheetcam together is a very easy way to nest parts and create the Post Proccessors needed. The library feature in the Dyna software is also a time saver-get the setting correct-save it-then everytime you cut that material its ready to go. I'm very happy and the machine has already saved me thousands.

Hi, if you post a .CDR over on the CandCNC forum I will be happy to look at any issues you might have with roughness. I am the author of the CandCNC DXFTool and I am always looking to improve the product, or for suggestions for new features. Is the roughness coming from a high node count from CorelTrace? Are you using V12 or X3?

Matt T
12-08-2006, 12:09 AM
I have recently joined the forum and was just reading through the post and thought I would offer some advice. I am currently using a Power Max 1250 with a Plasma Cam system. I have used many sets of Hypertherm consumables and have been somewhat disappointed with the life of consumables. I tried Thermacut consumables, which outlast Hypertherm consumables 2 to 1 if not more. It would be worth looking into. Thermacut recommends using their swirl ring.

On another note I am considering purchasing a Dyna torch machine and would like to speak with someone. Any contact info or opinions would be appreciated.

bossfrog
12-08-2006, 09:13 AM
Matt - do Thermacut tips fit Hypertherm machine torches? I would be interested in trying some if they last longer.

For Dynatorch info, you could contact Greg, Walt, or any of the guys from Dyna, or I am sure Edwardpic, MagmaJoe, Scorp, or I would be willing to talk to you as users. Let us know what you need...

Matt T
12-09-2006, 02:13 PM
Thermacut consumables do fit the machine torch. I think you will be very impressed.

magma-joe
12-09-2006, 07:59 PM
Mat T, if you are looking to upgrade I think the dynatorch gives alot of options. You can buy just the gantry and build your own table or buy both from Dynatorch. I looked at the Plasmacam and all the others before choosing Dynatorch. I wanted to be able to cut a full 5x10 sheet without indexing the sheet so that ruled out the plasma cam. I decided to build my own table and used their gantry. I also liked the Dynatorch FREE lifetime tech support. Any questions I have had were quickly answered. I can't comment on how well it performs as I am about 2 hours away from finishing it although before I decided to purchase it I went to a local shop using a Dynatorch 5x10 with the air handler system to cut 28 gage galvanized for HVAC. The owner said he had been using it about 6 hrs a day 5 days a week for the last year with no problems, and liked the machine. Servo motors with planetary gear boxes, FREE lifetime tech support, all steel tables in all sizes including dropsides, these were just a few of the things that I thought separated Dynatorch from the other players in this price range. I have learned a great deal from others on this forum so I thought I would include some pictures of my table to share with others who might be interested in building a table also.The frame is 3" x 8" X 3/16" tubing. I bought the leg levelers at ENCO. I built an 8" deep water tray inside of the frame from a 6' x 12' sheet of 12 gage. The guide rails are 3" x 3" x 3/16" square tube. I then mounted 3/4" x 2" cold rolled bar on top of the square tube for a straight and rigid mounting surface for the gear rack and v rail. I also had one edge on each bar surface ground before installing them so they would be as straight as possible.. As for the table slats I am going to try out the pointed tips versus no points on the slats, thats why only half of the slats are pointed. The computor cabinet started life as a Sears gladaitor tool box, I just added a hood cover for the monitor and a table extension to hold the Dynatorch box and the keyboard. Since this table is not a drop side I bought some 8' fork extensions for my forklift. These work good for light gage material, I just slide the material on and off the top of the forks. For heavy gage I plan on using 2 permanent lifting magnets. Since this is my first table I'm sure I have overlooked something but its probably a little late now? Thanks to everyone who contributes to this forum as I have used many ideas I read here on my table.

PlasmaGuy
12-09-2006, 08:47 PM
Magma,

Well Done ! I have a seven year old Torchmate that will be replaced with a Dynatorch. Your photographs are excellent! I second your comments about Dynatorch too.

Tom

LeonD
12-10-2006, 09:39 AM
Magma,
I did notice one issue that you may have to address later. The Plasma power supply is suspiciously close to your PC. Even when in a metal cabinet, there is a possibility that the plasma electrical feild will interfere with the PC. Distance is your best freind. We recommend a minimum of 5 ft between the two units. If you get errors when the plasma fires, try moving the two apart. While it is convinient to place them close together, the PC and the Plasma are not good room-mates. The PC will loose out every time. Just a thought. Other than that, you have a fabulous table frame. I don't think anything will ever affect it.

Leon

magma-joe
12-10-2006, 10:19 AM
Hi Leon, thanks for your advice on the distance between the plasma power supply and the computor as I was unaware of the possible interference within 5'. It is hard to see in the picture but lucky for me the cabinet has wheels so it can be moved any direction up to 10' away. When I built it I was'nt sure where the best location for the cabinet would be so I made it mobile. My shop ventilation air travels across the table lengthwise to exhaust out the door and I wanted the cabinet (and me:) ) to be in the fresh air side. Thanks for the feedback Leon and Plasmaguy!

kcir
12-10-2006, 11:19 AM
Thanks for sharing the pictures of your table. That is an excellent looking table. I am sure you will get many years of use from it.

Rick

Torchhead
12-10-2006, 11:35 AM
Magma,
I did notice one issue that you may have to address later. The Plasma power supply is suspiciously close to your PC. Even when in a metal cabinet, there is a possibility that the plasma electrical feild will interfere with the PC. Distance is your best freind. We recommend a minimum of 5 ft between the two units. If you get errors when the plasma fires, try moving the two apart. While it is convinient to place them close together, the PC and the Plasma are not good room-mates. The PC will loose out every time. Just a thought. Other than that, you have a fabulous table frame. I don't think anything will ever affect it.

Leon

Distance only works to reduce radiated noise (RFI). The heaviest point of radiated noise is at the arc. Good grounding and sheilding at the plasma unit and galvanic isolation (opto or relay isolation) of signals between the PC and control will go farther in reducing problems. In newer plasma units there is no electrical "field" of any distance around the unit. The source of most noise that can cause computer or controller errors is in the form of conducted noise (noise that travels on a common connection).

The biggest challenge is to use a HF start unit close to the motor controllers or the PC. It can be done and within a couple of feet if the grounds are not allowed to be connected or there is a low impedence (to earth ground) central "star" ground that everything is tied to individually. (one or the other).

magma-joe
12-10-2006, 01:33 PM
Distance only works to reduce radiated noise (RFI). The heaviest point of radiated noise is at the arc. Good grounding and sheilding at the plasma unit and galvanic isolation (opto or relay isolation) of signals between the PC and control will go farther in reducing problems. In newer plasma units there is no electrical "field" of any distance around the unit. The source of most noise that can cause computer or controller errors is in the form of conducted noise (noise that travels on a common connection).

The biggest challenge is to use a HF start unit close to the motor controllers or the PC. It can be done and within a couple of feet if the grounds are not allowed to be connected or there is a low impedence (to earth ground) central "star" ground that everything is tied to individually. (one or the other).

Torchhead, thanks for that information. After reading your other posts I realize that you are the only one who could correct the manufacturer on their own machine.

edwardpic
12-11-2006, 11:44 AM
I havent been on here much lately, but anyone who wants to call and ask any questions is fine. I love my machine and havent had any real issues other then a small learning curve.

727-639-1411 or whome124@aol.com

Matt T
12-11-2006, 08:09 PM
magma, thanks for the info and pics, thumbs up for the great job on the table. I believe I will go with the dynatorch.

PlasmaGuy
12-12-2006, 09:34 AM
You'll be glad you did... And I don't even own one... yet :)

PRECHTEL
12-12-2006, 01:55 PM
Fellas,

Sent my deposit check today for the DynaTorch 4 x 8 Drop side, Air handler, and 1250 Hypertherm with sheetcam. Hope I made the right decision. Now the hard part begins, the wait.

Tom

edwardpic
12-14-2006, 10:44 AM
Tom,
You will love the machine, and yes the wait can kill you. You want to start cutting now!!! We are here as Dynatorch owners and we can help along with the guys from Dynatorch. We all have shortcuts and some settings already for certain thicknesses of metel. Look on this thred for previous posts and print out any information you need. Cant wait to hear your cutting!!

magma-joe
12-14-2006, 10:33 PM
Tom, I made the first cuts with my Dynatorch. Right out of the box it made some nice cuts in 1/4" hot rolled steel. Leon at Dynatorch will walk you through the machine software set up all the way to making some test cuts. I purchased the WE-CIM software from Dynatorch also. Now comes the learning curve other users have talked about. I think all of us sharing information is a huge help. Thanks to everyone. I will post more as I get to know the machine and software more.

PRECHTEL
12-15-2006, 07:54 AM
I have already designed some parts in Bobcad that I want to cut. I am going to go to dynatorch and spend a little time with Walt running the software and machine when I pick it up. The sharing of knowlege on this site is great and Im sure it will come in handy very soon. Looking forward to the challange. Stupid question, is there a post for Bobcad to run the Dynatorch? Or is the Dynatorch/Sheetcam software a better option?

edwardpic
12-15-2006, 08:15 AM
I cant say that its a "better" option. But I will say sheetcam is one of the easiest programs to use for nesting-kerf comp etc. I use Autocad 2005, Dyna software, Corel Draw-Trace, and Sheetcam. I find I mostly use sheetcam and the dyna software. That may be because i already have my business Cad done. Corel is another great option and with CandCNC's DXF exporter it smotths alot of Autocads lines. Hope that helps!!!

Gledhill
12-22-2006, 08:22 AM
Wow I am amazed with the table if you dont mide could you tell me about how much you have into just the making of the table, I am about to start on one and would like one just like it.

Independent CNC
12-22-2006, 01:54 PM
Dynatorch users with WE-CIM,

Just wanted to add a post so I could offer my expertise with WE-CIM. I have been a user for over five years using the software to program / create nests for lasers, punch and plasma machines. The software is capable of doing some amazing things from building a nest from an Excel spread sheet to custom nest reporting to name a few.

I will do my best to keep tabs and answer question anyone may have.

Independent CNC Programmer
www.ctcn.net/~3kings/

magma-joe
12-22-2006, 04:35 PM
Gledhill, I did'nt keep track exactly of the cost. I think that the materials were less than $1200.00 not including the slats. I used ABOUT 50 ft of 3"x8" X 3/16 tube, 36 ft of 1 1/2 " x 3" x 3/16" channel, 24' 2x3 x 3/16 angle, 24' of 3x3 x 3/16 square tube and for the water tray, 1 sheet of 12 gage hot rolled 6' x 12' and 36' of 3/16 x 8" for the tray sides. The 6 leg adjusters were about 25.00 each. It was a one man job however the 12' pieces of 3x8 tube were just about the limit for me weight wise.

agachero
12-30-2006, 03:31 AM
Hello everybody:

First of all happy holidays and prosperous new year.

i like know some user of dynatorch in spain or Your France. to interchange opinions
I want to buy a table of 6x10 with oxyfuel and accesory of pipes.
I request me opinions about the functioning of this accessory and of the quality of court(cut) of the machine.

Another doubt is if with a few basic knowledges it is possible to make work the machine and repair it in case of breakdown, since I live far enough and is to begin problem that I have.

All the years the machine can work without giving problems and as it is the cut in unoxidizable steel they are other doubts that I have.

judge1m
01-06-2007, 11:28 AM
Hello fellas... I have been reading the forum here for some time now and decided on a Dynatorch system with with the drop side table with there down draft system. I ordered it Thursday. I will be building my table this week. If you have any suggestions or input on the table it would be greatly appreciated. As in changes or something you would have done different. Thanks!


Sam

edwardpic
01-08-2007, 11:33 AM
Sam, Look at some of the earlier posts and print out the suggestions for different thicknesses of steel. They were pretty dead on and a couple of us have posted what we have found as far as; cut speed-tip-set point voltage, peirce delay etc.
Welcome to the Dynatorch family and you will definately love the machine. I have been using my non stop, and have saved thousands. One recomendation I can give that worked for me is DRY DRY air, this will save tips and make the cuts alot smoother. Also, try and use welders tip spray on the plasma tips before cutting, this will keep most of the slag from sticking during the peirce and has definately saved me money in consumables.

Mike Ray
01-09-2007, 09:01 AM
Hello all,

I have "Thread Idis" from reading so much!! I want to thank Leon and Walt and the guys at Dynatorch for letting me come and see and talk with them about the product.

I purchased a Dropside 5x10 table with a Cutmaster 151 torch. I am pumped like others to get the system. I am still building my shop as they build my machine!! I will post some pics of the shop as it comes together and ask for ideas.

I like the posts and will also be posting questions and answers here. My specialty is PC/Server systems (MCSE from Microsoft).

I have always worked metal and did PC's for a living. These two married in this format will be nice.

I can't say enough about the folks at Dynatorch. After all the thought and planning their system was for me a turn key solution that will allow me to get busy from the start.

I considered kits and building my own table, but the whole system ready to go for the price was what made me buy the table and gantry complete.

I can also tell you from touching machines ( I went and saw the PlasmaCam in person) that the Dynatorch machine is far superior. I also saw a Torchmate 3 and was not impressed with the belt drive system.

I had to decide if I wanted my curve to be on the use of the system or figuring out how to assemble the system. Also for that matter on building one from scatch. I saw too many folks who have worked for months and jave no working system yet. I decided cutting steel is what I needed to do and not build machines. I will let Leon, Mike and the guys at DT handle that part.

Anyway, off to hang steel.

Mike

agachero
01-11-2007, 08:29 AM
Hello Everybody:

Only I need to solve a doubt that I have. I am going to buy a table of plasma cnc and am doubting between(among) torchmate and dynatorch, for this I beg(request) indicate advantages and disadvantages to me of both, this way as which it is better for you.

Then i will like that you were commenting on me if you there was very difficult the process of assembly(montage) and putting in march. Because I know a torchmate user in spain that can help me, but nobody of dynatorch

A greeting and thanks for everything.

Metalcrafter
01-15-2007, 05:02 PM
Just curious what you guys are using for PC control (laptop, desktop, processor speed, etc.).

Also, is anyone using the wireless version of the remote?

Thanks,
Jimmy

judge1m
01-15-2007, 07:57 PM
Ed,
Thanks for the input, but that was not quite what I was asking. What I meant was the actual fabrication of the table. Not a big deal. I built it per Dynatorch's drawing. I finished it today. Now I am just waiting for them to deliver. I am sure I will have a wave of questions coming soon...... hang tight! Thanks!

Sam

scorpion
01-17-2007, 11:07 PM
Just curious what you guys are using for PC control (laptop, desktop, processor speed, etc.).

Also, is anyone using the wireless version of the remote?

Thanks,
Jimmy

Hey all, it's been awile.

Initially I had a P4 3gig machine (or close) that I was planning on using for my Dynatorch. As it turned out, the Dynatorch requires dual serial connections (there is a work around using a serial to usb). Since I didn't want to have to wait to get the USB adapter, I plugged in my old P3 500mhz w/ 1 gig of ram and Windows XP just to do my first cut. I never did purchase that adapter and the P3 500 hasn't skipped a step.

I do have the wireless version of the remote (game contoller) and it works as if there were a wire. For the most part I only use it to rip sheets as I've found it's nearly impossible to free-hand cuts with any accuracy. For the most part I cut what I need then trim the drop from the full sheet so it can go back on the material rack. Since I started using the controller I no longer have drops on the rack - only in the scrap pile. Makes it much easier to measure for the next run too.

Matt

scorpion
01-17-2007, 11:30 PM
Now that I have months of use under my belt I'm starting to see a trend with consumable life. It would appear that the settings I originally posted for 1/4" plate (sheilded consumables, 70ipm, 60amps, 3/16 pierce, etc) is spot on. My consumables seem to last for quite some time regularly. What seems to be eluding me is the 3/16" setting. I still believe that 80ipm, 60amps, 3/16" pierce, etc) is very close to the correct setup though I cannot obtain a dross free cut like I can on the 1/4". I've also noticed that consumable life is inconsistent at this setting unlike the 1/4". What I mean by this is that every so often the nozzle gets a little tweak in it and the stream starts to work at it until it's cutting more like a fan. This only happens on the 3/16" setting. I'll be back to this in a second.

I've also cut with some finecut on 1/8" at both 50 amps and 40 amps (per Hypertherm's spec). As far as I can tell, Hypertherm's spec is spot on in either way. Anyway, what I noticed is that the lower amp/slower feed setting leaves a far better cut AND consumable life appears to be nearly double what it is on the faster setting.

So my question is, has anyone cut 3/16" with shielded consumables at 40amps with more success than the 60amp ones? I'm not excited about intentionally slowing the machine down just to improve cut quality since the faster setting already yields an excellent cut, but I am wondering if it would increase consumable life. If it does, I want someone to tell me why in the world it does because I can't, for the life of me, figure out why it would.

Faster at higher amps takes less time but burns hotter.
Slower at lower amps takes longer which has to nullify the lower amp setting.

Maybe I'm just thinking too much.

Matt

edwardpic
01-18-2007, 10:43 AM
matt,
I use your settings for 3/16 you posted and get hardly any dross and very clean cuts. I have tried the 40 amp tips but they seem to burn out quicker with the thicker 3/16. I have more settings problems with the finecuts cutting 14 and 16 gauge then anything. Seems it always takes a tweak here and there to stay consistant. I do however use the 60amp unsheilded tips, they seems to get a better cut and less kerf then sheilded.
If you get the fine cuts down please post some results. I do however notice that welders tip spray or even pam works for keeping the dross down on the tip from splatter and extends the life of the consumables. I have cut alot of 3/16-1/4 and 3/8's lately...your setting for the 3/8's is balls on and also the 1/4, i did however lower the set point voltage down to 125/128 seemed a little better.
have a great day all!!!

edwardpic
01-18-2007, 10:46 AM
Sorry if the wording or typing on the last post was off, had a 20ton press explode yesterday and took my left hand with it. Cut all the tendons in my left thumb and forefinger....gotta say that was a shock...gotta put humpty dumpty back together again!!!!

LeonD
01-21-2007, 05:29 PM
I spoke to a customer today cutting mostly 3/16 and 1/4 inch material for military contract parts. He says he switched to Thermacut direct replacement consumables. These have a different electrode design that does not use the "swirl". He is using these in combination with the Thermacut swirl ring and claims 2-3X the life of consumables with very good cut quality. I can't say that I have any experience with these yet but will try them out asap. I can say I do trust his word however.

The web site is www.thermacut.com you may further look at the pdf page http://www.thermacut.info/upload/pdf/template_brochure_final.pdf
Rumor is that this was Zap plasmatherm previously. I used to buy from them in the past. Just thought that some of you might want to look into this and post if you like/hate them. Apparently, they have both the standard OEM design and their own to offer. Don't know prices yet but a call tomorrow will find that out.

Leon

scorpion
01-27-2007, 06:20 PM
Sorry if the wording or typing on the last post was off, had a 20ton press explode yesterday and took my left hand with it. Cut all the tendons in my left thumb and forefinger....gotta say that was a shock...gotta put humpty dumpty back together again!!!!

Ouch. Sorry to hear that. Until you hurt your hands you never really realize exactly how much it slows you down. Is everything healable?


...Thermacut direct replacement consumables...

Very interesting. I've noticed that my consumables seem to "wear out" about the same time that the discoloration takes over about 75% of the electrode and nozzle. Seems the only time that they don't dis-color is when you're running under the rated amps with them (say running 50 amps through a 60 amp setup).

I think I'll order some next week and give them a try. I am curious about cut quality more so that longevity. That may be just because I don't truely understand exactly how it all works (other than what Thermacut has on their website).

Leon, let us know what you think after you run them. Please be critical of cut quality so we have a good opinion from more than one person.

Thanks for the heads up!

edwardpic
01-31-2007, 12:43 PM
Matt,
yes everything is healable, but will only gain back about 75% use of it. I go Monday coming up to get cut on. You are dead on on not realizing how much a hand injury can throw you for a loop fabrication wise.
I am also going to order some of the other brand tips and electrodes. I like their technology, but havent used them directly yet. I have had great luck with consumable life so far, maybe because I check and recheck the setting s as I cut and have tones of scrap notes all over the computer desk. As you can tell my orginizational skills arent the best.
Overall, great machine, love the cuts, and most of all have saved/made alot of money with it so far.
I would love to see a post with the thermacut consumables that lists the figured out settings for the gauges of steel we all seem to be cutting. RE: 16,14,12, 3/16, 1/4 and 1/2. Till then I'll keep on keepin on.

Be well all

magma-joe
02-03-2007, 10:58 AM
I recently completed my custom built 5x10 table for the Dynatorch gantry. (I posted some pictures earlier in this thread). Like many of you before me I discovered the steep learning curve. I started with zero experience of Cad Cam software or running a CNC plasma. I must say from a beginners stand point its alot to learn. Once it starts coming together and you start seeing your ideas transformed into parts cut on the table its a great feeling. I have been very happy with the Dynatorch. It has nearly all the features of machines costing 4 times what I paid. I think one of the coolest features is the joystick operation and the laser indicator. When I put the machine together I hooked up a wireless joystick to the computer. Like anyone starting out I wanted to expierment with cutting small parts with different speeds, feeds, etc. I started with operating the machine from the main control. I would jog the machine to where I thought I wanted to start the cut to start, run to the end of the table, check, and run back to the main control , adjust, check again and so forth. Alot of work and alot of wasted material as I never could be quite sure how close I really was to the edge of the material when I zeroed the machine for a new cut on the small piece of material. I also wanted to watch the start of the cut cycle and running from the main control to the end of the table was'nt any fun either. I then installed the joystick and laser indicator and discovered that I could completely run the table with the wireless joystick. I had a sheet full of cuts with little space left, but with the laser I could lay a sample of the small pieces I had been cutting on the sheet (which had so many cuts it did'nt look like you could fit another one) locate it with the cross hairs and run the whole operation while standing at the end of the table!. For any of you who have not tried the joy stick it rocks.

PRECHTEL
02-15-2007, 05:33 PM
Fella's

Well my Dynatorch table is here, and we hve made a few cuts. So far so good. I need to get my exhaust fan up and running before I cut too much, wow that sure makes some smoke! I am setting up my software and am having a few questions. Any Sheetcam users out there? I just need a few steps to get me going. I downloaded the tutorials from sheetcams website, what a mess that is or I am just stupid. The files are all zipped, when they are unzipped, I get seperate files for the pictures and files for the wording, am I supposed to guess which pictures go where? Now with the Dynatorch, seems to be all they said it to be. I need to get the fine cut consumeable kit, I have the Hypertherm 1250 with only 80 amp tips, should i buy the kit or just a sampling of the tips?

More Later

Thanks

Tom

Apples
02-16-2007, 06:25 AM
prechtel,

Once you have used fine cut you will not go back.. If you cut a lot of thin stuff the 40,60,80 amps tips are well, usless. Unless you are cutting for HVAC.

All the art type signs you see getting around all can be cut with fine cut nozzles, and will give the best result hands down.

I really really doubt that you could cut with an 80 amp nozzle with the machine set at 80 amps cutting say 14-16ga and get clean, fancy intricate cuts.

Peter
Australia

bossfrog
02-16-2007, 10:07 AM
Hey gang - it's me, Boss Frog. I am still running my Dynatorch, works pretty good, but I still have a huge kerf on my 7ga parts. I was just looking at the consumables for my Hypertherm 1000, and it occurred to me that I think I have been running the shield for the hand torch!!! That would explain why I can never seem to get my THC number down as low as you guys - the shield is probably dragging!

My question is for your fellow Hypertherm users - are you using the shielded setup with standard nozzles, or the unshielded setup with extended nozzles (60A)?

I feel the my consumable life seems very short, but it could be because I have been running it too high off the sheet. I ordered a 120930 shield for a machine torch, and hopefully that will make a difference...

Edwardpic - how's the hand? Anybody try the Thermacut consumables yet?

magma-joe
02-17-2007, 11:03 AM
A heads up for others who are using the fine cut nozzles on the machine torch. The Hypertherm catalog for the machine torch shows the swirl ring part #120925 being used with the fine cut nozzles as well as all other nozzles for the machine torch. This swirl ring has large holes. Hypertherm sells a Finecut kit for the hand torch which comes with a different swirl ring, pt#220927 which has small holes. I had been using the swirl ring with the large holes with the finecut nozzles on my Dynatorch with a Hypertherm 1250 and a machine torch. This setup was just as shown in the Hypertherm machine torch diagram (large hole swirl ring w/ finecut nozzle). I just could'nt get good cuts with this set up. I thought I would try the small hole swirl ring for the hand torch in my machine torch instead and the results were like night and day. I spoke with the Hypertherm tech and mentioned this and he confirmed that other machine torch users had reported the same thing. Here is the Hypertherm diagram https://www.hypertherm.com/Xnet/library/DocumentLibrary.jsp?format=pdf&file=/u01/app/oracle/library/Manuals/Service Manual (SM)/803940r4.pdf

bossfrog
02-17-2007, 12:55 PM
Magma:
I checked the manuals and with my vendor, and can't find the 220937 swirl ring. They do list a different swirl ring for finecut - a 220327 - is that what you mean?

magma-joe
02-17-2007, 01:01 PM
Sorry Bossfrog, thats my mistake, you are correct on the part number it is a 220327.
Magma Joe

Apples
02-17-2007, 05:43 PM
magma-joe,

What was the difference in the cuts that you had noticed?

Peter
Australia

bossfrog
02-17-2007, 08:47 PM
I did find one of the hand-torch swirl rings, and tried it today on some 16ga. It seems a little better, but I wouldn't say it was a huge difference. I would be happy if it increased the life a little...

Mike Ray
02-19-2007, 08:07 AM
Hello all back from Paducha with my Machine! Shops comin together and power man is for hookup this week!

I'm telling you I got to spend the day with the guys and gals and it was even Walt's B'day.

I also got to go hang out with Matt (He builds the gantries) and see him jam at a cool bar called Fat Moe's and have luch with Greg.

I will tell all I am still certian this was the best choice for the investment. I'm still reading about people who have been building their own machines and have tons of dollars and time invested.

I'm going to start setting up my PC with all the software so the schedule track together and the machines gets mounted to the floor and ready to go at the same time.

One cool thing I saw in the shop in KY was a whole was drilled next to the table thru the concrete and an extra ground rod was driven into the ground next to the machine to insure ground.

I'll post a few pics from my visit. My base website is up at http://www.practicalmetal.com. Check it out as it grows. I'll be bacj with more progress.

I also want everyone to know I've been scraping for years for my shop and also worked hard to get my table. It all just came together at the same time.

I again want to mention and thank all the guys at DT who let me spend the day and work with the equipment. I was cutting unassisted in just a few hours and even helped do a tube cutter changeover for another customer visit. Those who visit in the future, as you walk in the door the 22 inch galloping horse was the pattern I cut out. I measured with the machine software and saw my pieces of steel was to small and used the software to scale the ptn file to fit. Then cut the pattern and never left the table. I will also say get the joystick it is awsome.

Later

edwardpic
02-20-2007, 11:51 AM
Hey Ric,
had the surgery yesterday to repair the tendons in the hand...hopefully i will be back up and running soon...cant take the pain meds cause they make me sick, so yes i am in a huge amount of pain.
ya know i just noticed the swirlring difference myself..i have been using the normal one lately and forgot to change it...silly me..although the cuts were really nice still on the 14 and 16 gauge sheets...i did by the fine cute kit and blew the dust off of it and found i had 6 swirlrings for the finecuts...guess i got in too much of a hurry to cut parts out....Ric, my 3/16 has hardly any kerf to it...use scorpians settings they are balls on....i cut some 3/8's and was a beautiful cut....i havent used the machine in about 2 weeks, been staying away from machinery and found that gauze really catches fire when you weld!!!

i need to order more tips soon, i really want to try the different manufacturers and see what if any improvement i see...ill try and check back ive been sparse on here as of late

happy cutting all!!!!

edwardpic
02-20-2007, 11:59 AM
Ric,
Sorry forgot to answer your question from previous post...i am running unsheilded wih extended tips, as well as unsheilded with the sheilded tips..i ahve to say the unsheilded for me works/cuts better...i just spray the tips before each session of cuts with welders tip spray...makes them last alot longer from the splatter not sticking.

bossfrog
02-20-2007, 01:29 PM
Edwardpic - Thanks for the updates. I had one extended tip, so I ran it last week unshielded (60A, 7ga). It seemed to cut better than the shielded, but the backsplash ate it up after a while. I had been running about 148HTC and 90ipm with the shielded setup, and ran closer to the 142 and 95 unshielded. Kerf was better, and maybe could have run faster yet. Burned up two nozzles cutting a sheet of 4x8, so consumable use is higher.

I have been complaining to my welding supplies guy, hoping for him to send the Hypertherm rep to see me. Maybe someone with more experience could give me more suggestions.

edwardpic
02-20-2007, 01:36 PM
Ric,
the highest i have ever run voltage wise was 132 and that was for 3/8's steel....great cut..hardly a kerf and any slag....i would imagine running at 142 would toast tips....ill have to see what i am running for 3/16 and post later

bossfrog
02-20-2007, 01:51 PM
with shielded tips, we had been running 148THC because anything less would crash. I hope to start running unshielded so I can get closer to the sheet and reduce the kerf. I keep getting the feeling I am doing something totally wrong.

edwardpic
02-20-2007, 02:00 PM
Ric,
heres what i run:
3/16 (60amp consumable)
THV: 132/133
IPM range: 70 to 95
Optimal IPM: 80
Machine amps: 60
Pierce height: 3/16
Peirce delay: .25 seconds

Those settings give me great cuts so far. Ive even bumped the IPM down to around 75 with great results.
One note is i have never used sheilded tips with the sheild, i have always used the sheilded tips with the unsheilded deflector...just thought id throw that in there for discussion in the group....comments welcome

bossfrog
02-20-2007, 05:20 PM
Edwardpic - Thanks for the reference - I will give these setting a try.

To clarify, do you use the unshielded 60A nozzle (looks like a nipple on the end) or the extended nozzle (smooth/flat on the tip)? When you say unshielded deflector, do you mean the shield that is basically just a threaded ring?

PRECHTEL
02-21-2007, 02:20 PM
Hi Fellas,

Ran my machine enough to learn how to burn up a few tips! Bought the fine cut kit and some 40 and 60 amp setups from Thermacut. I'll let you know how those work out. Is it right to have slop in the z axis ? As my machine is setup, there is about 1/8 up-down slop in the Z. It just does not seem right. When piercing, the tip seems closer than the setting. I'd like to tighten this up if this is wrong. Look at your units if you would and tell me what you think. Get well Ed!

Thanks

Tom Prechtel
TAP INDUSTRIES
LaGrange, Ohio

magma-joe
02-21-2007, 09:58 PM
Tom, the slop in the z axis is normal, I noticed the same thing on my Dynatorch. I also thought the extra clearance would be an issue but after using the machine I found that it made no difference at all. It does take some time to get to know the machine and you will go thru alot of consummables. I have found that with the joystick and using buttons #6 and #8 I can dial in my cutting speed, pierce height. arc volts etc, very quickly. I just cut a series of 4" straight lines and by using the joystick and my welding glasses of course, I can watch the cycle up close from start to finish. Between cuts I go back to the console and make some adjustments and repeat the process until I have everything to my liking. Button 8 starts the cycle and 6 ends it and by pushing the joystick control on the right side you can cut straight lines, also great for cutting remanents from the main sheet you are cutting on. Have fun.

PRECHTEL
02-22-2007, 04:12 PM
Magma

I could not take it anymore. Watching the tip rub scrape, the THC not working right. I took it apart and drilled and tapped a 8-32 hole in the upper block that sandwiches the lead nut. Reassembled it and tighted the set screw so there was only a tiny .01 -.02 amount of slop.

WOW what a difference! My Tip lasted more than one part, my setting were much closer to the posted settings. I cannot believe Dynatorch would let that ship out the door that way.

Good Luck

Tom

Mike Ray
02-23-2007, 07:20 AM
Can we get Leon or Greg to pipe in on this one from DT? I know Greg and Leon are out there on these threads.

millerrocks06
02-26-2007, 01:27 PM
hello,
does anyone in here know how to run We-Cim ?

Independent CNC
02-26-2007, 01:55 PM
You’re welcome to give me a call @937-215-2353. If I can't answer your question I should be able to tell you who to talk too.

Greg King
Independent CNC Programmer
www.ctcn.net/~3kings/

bossfrog
02-26-2007, 02:07 PM
Well, I finally figured out part of my plasma problem - the Hypertherm machine torch originally came with a drag-tip shield for a hand torch! I got a machine torch shield now, using standard 60A nozzles, and can now use the 133THC settings you guys have talked about in prior posts. Very little kerf, and the slag is easy to knock off. What a relief! This thing is finally cutting with the quality I was originally hoping for.

PRECHTEL
02-27-2007, 07:34 AM
:) No questions this time just pictures. Here is my new Dynatorch. I will drag it outside in the spring and paint it. It would just make too much of a mess now. Still do not have the exaust fan hooked up, but maybe by the end of the week.

Tom

RAW
02-27-2007, 06:20 PM
Howdy, all. I'm glad I found this place!
My name is Reuben, and this is my first post.

I bought my Dynatorch setup over a year ago.
But I only got it mostly operational a couple of weeks ago!

The shop is brand new and some of the electrical stuff had to be changed/corrected. And in addition, my wife and I are trying to get our house built (only we've run into huge snags . . . even have a lawyer now).

Anyway, add that stuff to the fact that my shop is a 3 hour drive from my current house . . . it's been tough to get the ball rolling.

Here's a pic of my old Plasmacam that I sold, with everything squeezed into a small garage
http://steelgod.smugmug.com/photos/32010806-M.jpg

Got my GC started on my new shop
http://steelgod.smugmug.com/photos/23912671-M.jpg
http://steelgod.smugmug.com/photos/23915684-M.jpg
http://steelgod.smugmug.com/photos/21276796-M.jpg
http://steelgod.smugmug.com/photos/35002304-M.jpg

Drove out to Paducah to pick up my new machine
http://steelgod.smugmug.com/photos/38813420-M.jpg
http://steelgod.smugmug.com/photos/38813424-M.jpg

The table sat on the trailer in my shop for over a month.
http://steelgod.smugmug.com/photos/38813442-M.jpg

A few months later, I was able to convince a buddy with an HVLP gun to come help me
http://steelgod.smugmug.com/photos/71971693-M.jpg

And then started getting everything organized and set up
http://steelgod.smugmug.com/photos/96934812-M.jpg

And then finally, just a couple of weeks ago, I called in some favors and had a couple of friends help me straighten out the electrical work and grounding.

I haven't even cut yet, but . . . I got the machine running through one of Walt's warmups.
<object width="425" height="350"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/W6KKZ2RMAN8"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/W6KKZ2RMAN8" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"></embed></object>

I still have to connect the airlines from compressor through filters and air-dryer to the plasma cutter, finish exhaust ductwork, bolt compressor and fan to the floor, and place the slats. If I have all of the parts on hand, I should be able to finish the rest of that stuff on my next trip.

I can hardly wait.

RAW
02-27-2007, 07:32 PM
I tried posting a message here an hour or so ago.
Don't know what happened to it. Perhaps I'm under suspicion? I swear I'm not a spambot. ;)

Edit: There it is!!


Glad I found this thread. It'll be nice to have somewhere else to reach out (besides calling Leon . . . he's gotta be tired of me by now!) when I run into trouble.

Mike Ray
02-28-2007, 07:32 AM
Raw,

Great shop pics. Got my electrical signed off on yesterday and will start setting my machine in a few days. I know it drives me nuts waiting, but man don't let excitement get in the way of doin the setup right the first time. Make sure that investment is put together right before you strike an arc.

Where are you located? My machine is still in the crate and the table is wrapped in the Reynolds wrap Bruce and the guys wrapped it up in. I am going to shoot a coat of paint on before I put it together. I like the red, but that Miller blue keeps calling my name!!

I am going to use the table to build my smoke and dust collector. I figured I would by all the software and use the table to build my smoke and dust collector. I like that computer table. What kind is it?

Did you go with Hypertherm or Thermal Dynamics ?

Keep us posted!!!

Mike Ray
02-28-2007, 07:34 AM
RAW,

How much was that fan unit and what are the specs???

Thx

Mike Ray
02-28-2007, 07:36 AM
:withstupi

I gues if I look at the PICs I would see what cutter you went with. I was looking at the shop pics seeing what I need to do in mine!!!:)

RAW
02-28-2007, 09:15 AM
Make sure that investment is put together right before you strike an arc.

Absolutely! That's been part of the delay--making sure everything is just right.




Where are you located?

I'm currently in Georgia, but my shop (and new house) is in the Western North Carolina mountains, right on the TN state line.



How much was that fan unit and what are the specs???

That is the fan that was recommended by Leon. It's a Dayton unit that I ordered from Grainger. Here's the product info (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?ItemId=1611712199)
I just got the magnetic contactor wired in for the fan. Can't wait to see it kick on from a command from the computer.

The computer cabinet is also from Grainger. (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?ItemId=1613494258)

For you guys that have gone with thinner slats set in an arc, are you happy with that setup? And what thickness slat did you end up using?

Dynatorch_Greg
03-01-2007, 04:09 PM
Hey Guys SORRY FOR THE DELAY.
A little bit of play in the slide assembly is normal. It is also required for the thing to work properly. If your tip is dragging on the material it is likely to be because the set piont is not turned up high enough. The THC is very sensitive as well and those sensitivity settings can be changed by the user. If there is ever any doubt call Leon or one of us here at the main office for help. We may be able to save you lots of time.

judge1m
03-01-2007, 07:54 PM
Woo Hooo..... I finally got my table running today.....,but I have a slight problem. I called Leon late this evening and left a message. The problem is when I have THC turned on it starts fine and looks to be about 3/16" off material and then it pops up to about 5/16". Voltage is set at 132. Without the THC on it holds height just fine. I know it has to be something simple. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!


Sam

judge1m
03-01-2007, 08:08 PM
Oh yea! One more thing. My parts are cutting 1/16" small on o.d and 1/16" big on i.d. I believe I recall seeing something where you enter kirf width and I think it has .031 in it now. If I change it to .062 will that take care of that or is that for something else. Thanks!

Sam

RAW
03-01-2007, 08:18 PM
Oh yea! One more thing. My parts are cutting 1/16" small on o.d and 1/16" big on i.d. I believe I recall seeing something where you enter kirf width and I think it has .031 in it now. If I change it to .062 will that take care of that or is that for something else. Thanks!

Sam

Are you using Sheetcam?
I'm curious to start cutting using the Sheetcam-generated codes (including kerf offset).

judge1m
03-01-2007, 08:55 PM
I have sheetcam but have not put my head in that yet. Right now I have been using autocad and importing directly into Dynatorch program.

RAW
03-04-2007, 10:01 PM
:confused: I asked this in an earlier post, but it may have been overlooked.


For those of you who have gone with thinner slats, what gauge did you end up using? And how far did you arc the slats?

Mike Ray
03-05-2007, 07:05 AM
Still trying to get mine painted and my electrical configured! I was wondering about the slats and I was thinking about 16 gauge??? I have seen a table where someone had taken a 2x3 angle and cut in the slots then mounted it in the middle of the table for supports.

Thoughts anyone???

Mike Ray
03-05-2007, 07:27 AM
I made these groups out there.

May or maynot help get more folks in the circle.

dynatorch@googlegroups.com and dynatorch@***********.com

Mike Ray
03-05-2007, 07:28 AM
I made these groups out there.

May or maynot help get more folks in the circle.

dynatorch@googlegroups.com and dynatorch@yah:) :) groups . com

magma-joe
03-10-2007, 12:18 PM
It has been a while since I last posted. After spending the last few weeks learning the machine and software I can say the Dynatorch is a great machine. I have spent a great deal of time trying to dial in the cutting speeds, arc volts etc. Yesterday I cut 15 parts with 60 amp shielded nozzle, making slight modifications to the speed and arc volts with each part and checking the quality on each part. The part was basicly a 3" by 3" by 1/4" with a 3/4" hole in the center. I use the joystick to start the cycle so I can watch the cut up close and to see what each 2 or 3 sp volt change does for the cutting height. I did get to a certain point where I could not improve the quality any more. It was producing nice cuts although it still had some bevel. I thought I would try the fine cut nozzels and see it they would work on 1/4".
I set the amps at 50 and started expeirmenting. To my surprise the cuts were much much better. The bevel I had before with the 60 amp shielded nozzels was gone. After another 15 parts cut with the fine cut nozzels and tweaking the adjustments, the end result was a near perfect quality cut. If anyone is interested I can post the settings when I go to work on Monday, also a picture if you like. I would also like to thank Leon again for the time he spent helping me get up to speed. The tech support for Dynatorch is first class.

tyler774
03-10-2007, 09:32 PM
Well I,m up & running now with my cutting table.

I'ts not one of the complete systems though, what I have is a retrofit done to my old table.

Been having lots of fun cutting out die plates for clay extruders out of 12 gage, openings are very smooth.

I got the machine making it's own supports to. What I'm doing is making interlocking slats to from square grids 20'" X 20". About half way done with these, they lay inside a 6" deep water pan.

A water pan is also the way to cut, just got in from cutting a 12-1/2" circle out of 1". You get the same amount of smoke as when you cut gage metal. Even galvanzied cuts with barely any smoke. I got the water just touching the bottom of the sheet.

Oh ya, for all you folks with Powermax 1000's , it's a 3/4 max machine right......., nope! The 1" plate cut great, worst spot had 3 degrees bevel. Slowed it done to 8 IPM , 1-1/2 second pierce delay, and didn't bother with the Hieght Control. Definatly not for production but will work in a pinch.

Hope to have some pictures up later of the table.

Tyler

Mike Ray
03-11-2007, 07:48 AM
Glad to see all is cuttin well!!! I would like those settings. My table is coming along. I took the low tech paint approach. I have an HVLP sprayer, but thought this would be better for this small job. Took about 4 hours. 2 to primer and 2 to paint. Rustoleum primer and Rustoleum Safety red.

I have a power question. I'm still shaking on the costs of all the electrical. are you guys feeding off a 200 or 400 amp service. I am going to drop a sub panel close to my machine and run all my power out of that box for Air, Dryer, Blowern and Plasma. I want to put the PC and Gantry on this box also, But saw some where about line quality issues with the plasma. I can also run a feeder off the main for the PC and gantry. Just wanted to see what you guys did...

I am also considering a line conditioner and UPS for the PC and Gantry controller. Has anyone else done this???

magma-joe
03-11-2007, 10:54 AM
Hi Tyler, I will have to try some 1". I also have a water table. I keep my water level about 4" below the cutting surface. It works excellent and takes nearly all the smoke and dust out of the air. I do find that when the cut part drops from the sheet the air from the torch splashes a bit of water on the laser indicator among other things. Not really a big deal. When you said you cut with the water level right under the sheet it made me wonder how much added splash you get? I have been using a solution called Plasma Quench in the water and after 3 months there is zero rust in the table and the water has never stagnated or smelled and not one mosquito has found it attractive, truly amazing stuff. All I have had to do is ocasionally ad some water. I check the solution with a PH tester and even though I have had to ad water it has never needed anymore solution. I would have liked to have the air handler but when I built my table but I just could'nt afford one at the time.

metalguy22
03-16-2007, 08:22 PM
Haven't been to the CNC forum in about a year and a half. Glad to see a thread dedicated to Dynatorch. Can't seem to locate any groups on Google or Yahoo so this is a good deal.

After my usual procrastination on software updates I finally went ahead a did a couple weeks ago. Lots of new good stuff - especially the improved ability to restart. There are a number of new settings that I went over with Leon but it is clear that a little dialing in is needed. As a start has anyone played around with the new THC algorithm settings on the torch tab settings? I used to set the old settings at 10 for gain and 15 for correction and it seemed to work pretty well. The default setting of 500 and 1500 on the new algorithm makes the THC VERY active on my machine - verging on unstable. Has anyone tried any other values that work for them?

I cut mostly 10ga at 40 amps, 108 arc V and 55 ips.

JLD215
03-17-2007, 07:43 PM
I'm looking to buy a dayna torch systeme. I have to wirer up my new garage and I'm wondering what kind of service I can get away with. My house is a 100amp service. I was thinking of upgrading my service to 200amp. and runing 100 amp to the garage. If I dont I can only get 60 amps to the garage. I that enuff to run the table, cutter, compresor...

what kind of service do you guys have?

Cheers

tyler774
03-18-2007, 09:47 AM
I too have only 100 AMP service to my house.

Have a Powermax 1000 & 5 Hp Compressor for cutting.

I installed a seperate sub panel in the garage tying into the house panel. This works fine for me, but......... make sure you arn't using heavy load appliances in the house while out cutting in the shop. If you ever decide to dry clothes, cook a roast run the AC etc.. all at once you could be in the dark.

Also, the sub panel in the garage should have it's own seperate ground rod driven in, ground your table to this as well.

Tyler

JLD215
03-18-2007, 08:48 PM
Thanks! Tyler774 for the info very helpful. what size of brakers did you put in the sub panel.

Cheers

Mike Ray
03-19-2007, 08:46 AM
Power seems to be the talk today. :) I am still progressing on my shop and for power I ended up with a 125 amp sub panel off my main 200 amp feed. I ran a seperate 20amp feed off the main for the PC and Controller power (Yellow Wire ran thru sub panel). This sud panel will have my Cutmaster 151, AC Dryer, Air Compressor, Blower Motor and my Miller 135 wire feed welder power. I figure the table will do most work at 40 to 60 amps, the Air Compressor is 22.5 Amps at start (Running Amps are less) and the Air Dryer is 15amps at start. This puts my at 97.5 amps if all starts at once.

My sub panel is about 50 feet from the main. I ran the service in conduit and can add more service feeds if needed off the main. The sub panel feeder is a 2-2-2-4 feeder that is Aluminium. Was going to use copper, but I think gold is cheaper right now :) .

I am at about $1000.00 so far on the main power feed and the sub. This includes all the plywood, paint and an having an Electrician come sign off on the main feed. I still have about $250.00 more to run all the plugs and feed all the hardware into the panel.

I think spending a little time and money here to do it right and not get in a hurry will pay off in the long run for safety and looks (Paint). Oh, I also put Sheating Insulation behind the plywood for extra insulation. The ply wood is 3/4 inch so I can screw things to it in the future. I will eventually run that config all around my shop.

What is the amp rating on that blower from grainger? Also what RPM is it turning? I am asking becuase I want to know what CFM the blower is pulling on the Dynatorch table.

Okay who can talk about ground loops??? I extended the ground from the main panel (Bare Aluminium feed off the main) to the sub panel. I am going to put a rod next to the table and hook it back to the panel as well so I have an earth ground within 20 electrical feet of the table. I have read about this possible causing a ground loop where the two grounds "pick up" each other and allow noise back into the system??? More research here I guess.

Off to the day job ;) .

Mike

millerrocks06
03-30-2007, 08:02 PM
Hey all,

I am a CNC programer for a dynatorch table so if anyone needs help figuring out software just let me know. I only know how to do We-Cim and a little bit on Cutting shop.

FusionFab
04-27-2007, 11:05 PM
I was wondering if somone could shed some lite on a problem for me. I have a 5 x 10 table with drop side, and am having trouble getting text to go from easy cad to sheet cam to covert to g code. Lets just say I want to make a sign with my name Fusion which has a box around it (so the letters get cut out) well its all draws out perfect on easy cad til I save it and re-open it in sheet cam. When sheet cam opens the file the box is twice as long as the letters and the letters are compressed. I contacted sheetcam and they said try to explode when saveing, I cant tell where that does anything for me. Im all new to this cad programing, but the plasmamate and dyna torch code wizard seems very simple to use. Thanks

Torchhead
04-29-2007, 12:43 PM
Text is handled differently because it's a special kind of "object" that has parameters besides just the vector lines. It tracks font-face (font name), kerning information (how it spaces itself in relation to other letters), Size (typically in "points) and some other information. Since it is not just a vector object like a square or circle the text info gets exported assuming the receiving program needs/wants that info. Most CAM programs with DXF import don't support text objects.


The solution is normally to "explode" (autocad term) the object and turn it into just vectors. Your CAD program may call it something else. In CorelDraw it's "Convert to curves". Once you explode the object you can't turn it back in to combined text again.

If you use CoreDraw, which in my estimation is a better drawing packing to use for decorative and signage, you can skip the explode/convert operation and leave your artwork text in text format if you use our DXFTool.

You can use our DXFTool plug-in for Corel and it exports using arcs and curves and leaves the objects intact in your drawing.

If want to investigate that approach you need to get a ver 12 or higher CorelDraw. Ver 12 is a good release and you can find it on the web for as low as $39 bucks. DXFTool Demo is free for 30 days or 30 exports. Join our support group on Yahoo at CandCNCSupport and in the files section there are several Free CDR (CorelDraw) files created specifically for plasma decorative cutting.

TOM CAUDLE
www.CandCNC.com

FusionFab
04-29-2007, 07:19 PM
Thanks Tom for the info. Im gonna try to find coreldraw and give it a shot. Yeah i didnt think all this cad programing would be so difficult, I figured i get the machine and with in a few days id be doing some cutting. But beings ive never used cad drawing software before ive got people lined up waiting for me to cut for them, cause i cant figure things out. I need to go down to Kentucky and spend the day with Walt if i can ever get out of the shop. Justin

Mike Ray
05-01-2007, 08:45 AM
OK,

I'm thinking about a water table. I keep coming back to cost and functionality. Can anyone give me some input? I was thinking a 4" 5x10 with a drain would work fine. I also considered a pump to fill and drain as needed.

(nuts) I have been distracted with a job for a few weeks. I got my scroll system mounted and a guy saw it and ordered 215 pieces. Can't complain, it pays the bills!!!. It is just slowing me down getting the real machine going!!

Input on the water table would be great.

RAW
05-05-2007, 02:49 PM
Just wanted to post up about DXFTool.

All I can say is that I wish I had found it sooner!
It's an excellent program that is REQUIRED for using Coreldraw. I don't know why Corel can't get it right. But the DXFTool does it!! It's been a real lifesaver.

If I had found it sooner, I could have saved myself a lot of pain and anguish. :)

FusionFab
05-05-2007, 05:11 PM
Just wondering what Dxf toll your referring to? I just ordered the latest version of corel draw should be here on Monday, If its somthing i may need where did you locate it? Thanks Justin

RAW
05-05-2007, 05:29 PM
Just wondering what Dxf toll your referring to? I just ordered the latest version of corel draw should be here on Monday, If its somthing i may need where did you locate it? Thanks Justin

After googling for months (and tearing my hair out with CorelDraw problems), I stumbled upon this link.
CandCNC DXFTool (http://www.candcnc.com/DXFToolDetails.htm)

The member of this board who posts as Torchhead is Tom Caudle (owner of CandCNC, I think).

Torchhead
05-06-2007, 07:20 PM
DXFTool is available as a free demo download (30 days or 30 exports) from Http://www.CandCNC.com/DXFToolDetails.htm

It corrects Corel's problem with DXF exports that turn all of the curves into thousands of tiny line segments.

Mike Ray
05-21-2007, 07:29 AM
I want to get some feed back on what/how you all are charging for time.



Remove materials costs, I just want to know about the table. Do any of you run based on a fixed IPM cost with a charge per pierce. If not do you calculate the run time and charge by the hour. Also have you found a "base" charge for small one offs, like bubba needs a flange bracket for his 85 F-350 4x4?



I know most charge a setup fee for the job and a design per hour charge if someone brings you a "napkin" drawing. Can I get some feedback on these charges as well.



Thanks,

Torchhead
05-23-2007, 02:36 AM
I want to get some feed back on what/how you all are charging for time.



Remove materials costs, I just want to know about the table. Do any of you run based on a fixed IPM cost with a charge per pierce. If not do you calculate the run time and charge by the hour. Also have you found a "base" charge for small one offs, like bubba needs a flange bracket for his 85 F-350 4x4?



I know most charge a setup fee for the job and a design per hour charge if someone brings you a "napkin" drawing. Can I get some feedback on these charges as well.



Thanks,



Mike I find all that too complex to do pricing. Most people want to know a ballpark price up front and if you can do it in your head you can quickly find out if you are wasting your time with them (tire kickers) and they get the numbers to let them make a quick decison. You start talking about "setup fees" or "artwork fees" and their eyes glaze over.

I don't cut many "brackets" or stuff like that. We do mostly decorative cutting and usually have to work with the customer on a custom design. I use a square ft pricing that includes the material and type of finish. I round to the nearest 6" size. Nothing smaller than 18" square (minimum pricing)

You will go broke doing "napkin" design cuts. Seldom will they pay you for your time to draw it and get it on the table.

Doing a per hour estimate is hard because machine time is only part of the equation.

You can do a estimate of a sq-ft price in seconds with a simple calculator and it tends to reflect not only machine time but handling and other costs as well.

For most designs I charge between 12 and 20 dollars per square foot. another magic number that seems to work is the age old 4 to 5 X your raw material costs (dunno why but the numbers seem to get pretty close). So if material costs you 3.00 per square the 12.00 per square works.

well.....it worked for me and I didn't waste a lot of time listening to ideas from guys that wanted things done for free (but I could keep one for myself...woopee!).

territorialmill
05-31-2007, 04:16 PM
Getting closer to finishing my dual drive gantry and table (5X10) and need help sizing the Igus style cable carriers. Could someone provide inside dimensions and lengths for both axis. Don't want too big but sure don't want too small. This way I know what to look for on ebay. THX.

Keith

Mike Ray
06-01-2007, 08:25 PM
I got motion!! Finally got time to get my gantry setup and moving on it's own. Still a ways to go. But this is a big step in to right direction. Has anyone been tweaking the setup to speed up the tracking. Also (DT folks) does anyone have a file that will put the gantry thru it's paces???

I'll get a few picks tomorrow and load them up.

Mike

RAW
06-01-2007, 10:42 PM
I got motion!! Finally got time to get my gantry setup and moving on it's own. Still a ways to go. But this is a big step in to right direction. Has anyone been tweaking the setup to speed up the tracking. Also (DT folks) does anyone have a file that will put the gantry thru it's paces???

I'll get a few picks tomorrow and load them up.

Mike

It's an exciting moment, eh? I posted my first gantry-movement up on YouTube. Heck, I bought my machine back in October 2005, I think. But I'm still not up and running totally. (I've been dealing with some seriously nasty contractor issues with a new house . . . for over a year now)

I just finished cutting the hole in the side of my new workshop for the exhaust ducting. Gotta bolt the fan to the floor and move the table into position. Then I'm ready. Hopefully I wired my magnetic contactor for the fan properly!

I was up at my shop (3 hours away! at the new house site) just a couple of days ago getting that work done. While I was there, I fired the plasmacutter a couple of times . . . but the THC kept raising the torch too high and losing arc. I know I had the arc voltage set point set too high. Gonna have to fiddle with the settings, but try not to waste too much sheet steel.

Anyway, ask Leon or Walt for Walt's Warmup files. The one he sent me just does some basic loops without the torch firing. Each time it runs through the file, it speeds up.

check out the YouTube video of mine (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6KKZ2RMAN8)

Mike Ray
06-03-2007, 04:03 PM
Video of mt machine homing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VIwZUXPJwww


Man,

I go a few more PIX today before my battery died. Still hacking away at the steps. The biggest issue now is getting the air setup from IR working. You thinks they would have their act together, but I have had a fit getting the pieces to hook up my system. Won't bore you with the details, but if ya'll are in the market shop a lot.

The guys at Horse Power TV have a setup like I am building from IR (mines a lot smaller) they used www.pattonsinc.com parts.

Any hoo back to the shop. Never get done sittin at this keyboard!!!!

RAW
06-03-2007, 05:18 PM
The biggest issue now is getting the air setup from IR working. You thinks they would have their act together, but I have had a fit getting the pieces to hook up my system.

Yeah, I'm not entirely pleased with my air-system setup. I've got a CampbellHausfeld compressor (http://www.campbellhausfeld.net/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10051&productId=60825&langId=-1&parent_category_rn=10534) that I had prior to getting into plasma-cutting. It's rated at 10.2 SCFM at 90psi. It turns on much too frequently for my tastes. And the pump ends up heating the entire tank.
Consequently, when that hot air hits my refrigerated dryer (which is matched to the 10CFM), (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3YA49)it still comes out warm on the other side. Not to mention the pain in the butt it was to make air-connections to the unit. It has 2 straight copper pipes for inlet and outlet. I ended up finding some compression fittings to make it work.
So needless to say, my system isn't as clean and tidy as those pictured on the website you linked. I'm envious of those systems. Makes me wish there was someone in the Asheville, NC area who would come out and set it up for me.

How are you liking the drop-side table? I think I may find myself wishing I had gone that route.


p.s. BTW, if you want that Walt's Warmup file, PM me your email address. I'll send it on over.

Mike Ray
06-03-2007, 11:56 PM
Yeah, I love the DS table. My shop is tight so I need the options it gives me. I am going to document my Air install and my watertable setup. The air issue is I think a big one for everyone. My system will have a 10, a 4 and a 1 micron filter and I will be pushing 14.7cfm at 175psi max.

You can order online at ebay or even at Tractor Supply (Lots of cool shop stuff there believe it or not). You should be able to get free shipping. About 1100.00 though. If you can bite the bullet the next unit up is the way to go.

Quick and Dirty Ebay Search.

http://cgi.ebay.com/5-HP-INGERSOLL-RAND-80-Gal-T-30-Air-Compressor_W0QQitemZ130119504992QQihZ003QQcategoryZ106436QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Where any of these systems will get you is with Air Dryers and Hardware. My Air Dryer was as much as my unit. And I think the hardware will end up being as much!!!.

The Gantry is proving to be the most cost effective piece!!! ;)

More videos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4EOm92uA1E
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xf5cTOZVY_k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Od0HMKm4Ua0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWItn9rjvO8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tATGsq596bs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YsICQAwL0I

Gota love technology!!!

edwardpic
06-18-2007, 02:31 PM
Hey guys,
I havent chimed in here in awhile. This may sound basic but I use a 24" axial fan for a paint booth mounted in the wall next to my table. Needless to say i have no smoke at all while cutting, was going to put a hood on the machine but found I didnt need it. I just vent the fan outside into a 48x48x48 3 sided box with cheap paint booth filter material. Food for thought. I use my machine probably 15 hours a week cutting everything from 16 gauge to 3/8 steel.
Now for my question, has anyone cut 1/4 aluminum? If so can you post your settings for the machine-IPM-Tip etc? Thanks guys and I love my machine!!

scorpion
06-18-2007, 04:07 PM
Hey gang - it's me, Boss Frog. I am still running my Dynatorch, works pretty good, but I still have a huge kerf on my 7ga parts. I was just looking at the consumables for my Hypertherm 1000, and it occurred to me that I think I have been running the shield for the hand torch!!! That would explain why I can never seem to get my THC number down as low as you guys - the shield is probably dragging!

My question is for your fellow Hypertherm users - are you using the shielded setup with standard nozzles, or the unshielded setup with extended nozzles (60A)?

I feel the my consumable life seems very short, but it could be because I have been running it too high off the sheet. I ordered a 120930 shield for a machine torch, and hopefully that will make a difference...

Edwardpic - how's the hand? Anybody try the Thermacut consumables yet?

Yeah the hand sheild (if it's the one that's designed for drag cutting) will screw you up big time. It already has some built in offset so I'd guess you'd be dragging it on the surface of your parts at my settings.

Sheilded with standard nozzles here. I have had difficulties getting the same cut quality on 3/16" as 1/4" and higher but they're still fairly good. I've played with it quite a bit and can't seem to get it dialed in like the 1/4". I'm guessing that maybe I need to dip down to 40 amp consumables - since that's the only thing I've not tried. I have been mentally playing with the idea of trying to run the fine-cut setup on 3/16" and slowing it down from the 1/8" settings but haven't actually done it yet. has anyone tried this?

I have noticed that my originally posted settings (80 IPM, V 141 with 60 amp sheilded) doesn't seem to last as long as bumping up to 85 IPM and about 142-143 Voltage for height. The holes end up not as nice but the longer run cuts are much nicer.

Matt

scorpion
06-18-2007, 05:37 PM
Now for my question, has anyone cut 1/4 aluminum? If so can you post your settings for the machine-IPM-Tip etc? Thanks guys and I love my machine!!

As a mater of fact...yes, yes I have. I just did some about two weeks ago. 1/4" and 1/8". What I found is that you get almost no dross at just about any speed but the slower you go, the wider the cut path is on the aluminum. Keep in mind that I was cutting 6061 T6 (if that matters I don't know) on the 1/4" stuff. The speed setting I ended up at is 65 IPM with about 10 more on the voltage (so about 150). For the 1/8" I used 5053 AL (I believe but don't know for sure as it was the only clean piece on the shelf and no labeling on it). I used the fine-cut unshielded setup at 50 amps and 85-90 on the voltage.

For the most part it would appear that the tip always wants to be in the material so you may need to go up a little from my numbers to make it work for you - I was messing with it a lot when I was cutting. My numbers will get you close.

Below (first picture) is a picture of the finished 1/4" AL pieces. Most of the square switch holes needed to be filed so the corners were square again, the holes were all punched, and some machine work was necessary on the back side in various spots to make everything fit correctly but overall I was very pleased at the time that was saved over running the entire part on the CNC Mill. The perimeter, switch holes, and gauge holes were all cut on the table and left alone.

http://www.tntcustoms.com/projects/YJPictures/DSC00080_Sm.jpg

Below is an emblem that I cut measuring 4.625 x 2.375. The edges still need a little filing to eliminate the edges in the smaller "&" but overall it's a fairly good sample of 1/8" thick AL cut on the table.

http://www.tntcustoms.com/projects/YJPictures/DSC00083_Sm.jpg

edwardpic
06-18-2007, 09:16 PM
Matt,
Awesome job man!!! I want to cut a sign out for my shop, put it in a wood sided box and put red see through plastic back lit....I have a 4x10 sheet of just regular mill grade aluminum I wanted to try out. Been cutting my parts from drawings already made and having a hard time remembering in corel how to make the sign (must be getting old)
On a side note Im building a vacuum form machine in the next 2 weeks, 48x48 should run around 1800 when done. Already made my molds out of MDF and had a buddy pull some parts, came out sweeet. Matt let me know if you could use some parts Ill give ya a hell of a deal.
Ill try and figure out (remember) the corel this week and attempt it on the 1/4.Seen on anothe DT post about oblong holes, gotts say I cut 1/4 holes in 1/4 mild steel and dont have that problem must be their settings I dunno.

EDIT-Matt I use your settings pretty close to what was posted months ago and get great results from 3/16, better then the 1/4. Next time I cut some parts Ill see what my sheetcam file says for IPM and Ill take note of the settings im using tips and all and post here. Anyone can email me at ed@rynomobility.com

edwardpic
06-18-2007, 09:25 PM
Bossfrog,
The hand? Well lets just say I only got back about 30% movement after spending 8K on surgury and physical therapy. Least I still have it, thanks for asking man!!
As far as consumables I havent had any problems really. I use the sheilded tips but dont use the sheild. All I do is change the tips. You know how the fine cuts just use the small ring to hold the tips in? I use that same set-up but with the 60amp sheilded tips. Ive said it before but the welding tip spray has really really helped, no splatter sticks to the tip and it seems to make them last twice as much. One thing I did do in the settings was to change the # pressure that the ATHC uses to sense the steel. Changing it to a lower setting also has helped the tips, especiially after they are hot from cutting 20 parts out.
I can cut a full sheet of 1/4 or 3/16 mild steel say 40 parts per sheet and the tips dont burn out or give much kerf at all towards the end. Wish we were all closer to check out the set-ups we have.

*Sorry* unsheiled set up with extended nozzles had to edit this post I got long winded lol

scorpion
06-19-2007, 10:39 AM
Matt,

Already made my molds out of MDF and had a buddy pull some parts, came out sweeet.


I'm not sure I understand what you have in the works. You're making a vacume table for you plasma and are making molds for the collection assembly? It may be I'm not familiar with the term "pulling parts" in regards to molds. Are you making it out of fiberglass or something similar?

Matt

edwardpic
06-19-2007, 10:54 AM
Matt,
I am making a vacuum forming table for ABS plastic parts re; covers, door panels, transmission humps. Pulling parts is a term when making the ABS peices. I thought you might like some parts for your 4x4 vehicles. Take a look at this website and watch the video. Needless to say they want 14K and I will build it for less then 2K. Its kinda off subject from the cnc plasma, but thought id share.

http://www.belovac.com/model_c_class_4x4.html

bossfrog
06-27-2007, 02:39 PM
Hey guys - I have been off the forum for awhile, but will try to get active again. My consumables are still flakey - sometimes cut a whole 7ga sheet with one nozzle, other times go through three. Sometimes it crashes almost continuously, sometimes it runs great. I guess it is the phase of the moon or something. My gantry got off kilter once, had a gear dragging on the rail which caused lots of crashes. I am wondering if one of my motors is damaged from this, as it seems to crash most often while in the x-axis.

Also, I am getting ready to run some aluminum, not sure what size yet. I think maybe I will start a new post for aluminum, since the postings on this topic are all spread out. If you know something about it, check for the new post.

edwardpic
06-27-2007, 08:08 PM
Hey Ric,
I think you have some other issues going on with your table. It shouldnt be so erratic for sure. I havent had any problems other then the first couple learning days with tip diving. I just cut 30 4x4 parts out of 1/4" steel and then cut a few more out of 3/16" steel before i had to change tips. I go through more tips when using the fine cut tips. They work great on 16 to 14 gauge and not as well with 12 gauge, I use the 60 amp sheilded tips for that with better results. Good idea on the aluminum thread, i posted in there already.
We do have alot of Dynatorch threads now, good to see but hard to follow!!

bossfrog
06-27-2007, 09:52 PM
I agree I have an issue, either with the table or the plasma, just can't pin it down. I had originally tried running at 60A with unshielded tips, but the splash kept melting off the corners of the nozzles. I use the machine torch shielded ring and regular nozzles, and they work fine most of the time.

I am looking forward to trying aluminum cutting, and your guidelines will help alot - thanks.

edwardpic
06-28-2007, 08:03 AM
Ric,
For the splatter try welders tip spray, I use cans of it. I spray the tip before every run no matter how small, and on larger jobs spray when the torch is moving to another peice. On the thicker 3/8's because of the peirce delay i also spray the steel to help with splatter. Also splatter and little peices of hot metal get on the edges where the main rollers are, I brush or blow them off before each use.
what I use mostly; Deflector #120979 with 60amp tip #120931. I never change the deflector even though they say its to be used for fine cuts, it works well with the sheilded tips even with being exposed to the splatter.
Have you checked your peirce height and delay? Thats all I can think of right now other then the gantry not moving smoothly. Let us know!!!

Torchhead
06-28-2007, 10:39 AM
General plasma cutting rule: Pierce high, cut low.
Your pierce height should be as high as possible and still get a valid arc okay signal. It's like dropping a big rock into a bucket of pudding; if you hold your face too close it will get dirty. The accepted method when cutting manually is to angle the torch so the blow-back goes off to one side. With a machine torch that is not possible. By piercing higher the backsplash (which goes out in a "crown" shape) does not tend to clog the tip or shield. The air blowing down will normally keep it below the .125 level.

I try to pierce at .125 to .200 above the material (except for Fine Cut). I have my software configured so that it:

Touches off to get the material surface at the pierce point
Raises the head to pierce height (not cut height)
Fires the torch and waits for an Arc Okay (Arc XFR) signal from the plasma
Plunges the head into the cut to "initial" cut height
Starts movement of XY
Delays THC takeover until voltage gets past pierce event

SheetCAM has provisions for doing a separate pierce height and cut height. If you don't have a way to utilize the ARC GOOD signal (Should hold movement until valid) or your plasma does not have that signal available your cut process will not be as precise as I listed.

I can cut 3 or 4 4X4 sheets of decorative cuts (lots of pierces) before changing tips. I find electrodes outlast tips 3:1 so I buy them in that ratio.

tomCAUDLE
www.CandCNC.com

Mike Ray
07-01-2007, 09:53 PM
Hello all!!

I finally got all my hardware stuff worked out for my air system...sorta. The guy at IR gave me a bunch of 15.25 mm collars I have got to go swap for 22 mm. 40 miles to their office..ticks me off. I talked with him for over an hour and right when I was paying I remebered I needed more stand off mounts and when he went to the back he grabbed the wrong ones and I did not notice because he had put them in a bag already...

Based on my numbers I have about $1000.00 tied up in the air system so far. I did not expect it to run this much, but I want to have good clean dry air.

Here are some shots from today. I did all the pipe plumbing in the pictures in about 3 hours.

I should be able to get the long runs around to my torch and the numatics on the DT table in a few days. I'll post some shots when I get to that point.

I have a shot of the air filter hardware and I was able to take a lot of pieces out becuase the mounts fit my compression hoses.

The compression hoses are 3 foot high pressure hydraulic lines I had made at Napa. Thes were about 35.00 each. I did a flex bushing on one end. If I were doing it again, I would spend a little extra and do flex fittings on both ends. The ends going to or from the filters fixed and had to be screwed on before the assembly was mounted.

I also got the new torch mount from DT. I saw it in the shop when I picked my system up. It did not click to me which one it was unit I opened the box. I'll shoot some pics as I put it on the system. More later on that.

Mike Ray
07-05-2007, 07:37 AM
Well,

I got my air system finished and Ingersoll Rand folks are comin around with gettin me what I need. (nuts) I got my hangers replaced and got the system setup and pressure placed on the system. The couplers are compression fittings and I am still tweaking out a few small leaks. Had one pop off when I first presurized the system. That got the whole areas attention sounded like a cannon going off. Note from the wise. Eye protection and hearing protection when pressurizing any air system and checking for leaks.

I put in shots of my filters. I have a 10 micron before the dryer, a 4 micron after the dryer and the pup filter is a 1 micron filter at the table.

I had issues figuring out how to hang the 10 and 4 micron filter, but the Pup had a bracket. I thought it would be easy to deal with. It was a PITA!! It is way to flimsy and I can see issues with it down the line. I will probably re mount it.

After all the hardware this was about a 10 hour project and came in at about $1000.00. I used my Shop Outfitters bender to bend the tube. I still have more air tube that will be used to go all the way around the shop. I am going to pick up a few more things from IR to enhance the air system, but for now I am going to get the torch wired and fired so I can start production...I hope :)

Mike

RAW
07-13-2007, 07:46 PM
Spent some time finishing some stuff up the other day.
I was able to cut out my first parts! Finally!

Ran a new line from the controller to my magnetic starter for the exhaust fan.
And now with a click of the mouse, I can turn on the fan!

Then I cut out the parts for a middle support bracket. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YE-G5rFZJzc)

Realized later that the cut file and associated voltage and cut speed were all for thicker steel. Oops. I ran 3/16" settings on 1/8" steel. I'm a dummy. But I was just so excited to be cutting . . . that I wasn't paying attention like I should have been.
But the parts looked pretty good (a little too much dross though).
http://steelgod.smugmug.com/photos/172362570-L.jpg

Tack-welded those parts together, attached the bracket to the table with 4 screws, and set the slats in place.
http://steelgod.smugmug.com/photos/172362609-M.jpg
http://steelgod.smugmug.com/photos/172362637-M.jpg

Stepped back and realized I had curved the slats in the wrong direction (again with the not paying attention).
Doh!
So, next time I'm up there . . . I'll be swapping that around.

All that is left is to anchor my exhaust fan and compressor to the floor . . . . but now I'm considering upgrading my compressor. :rolleyes:

Mike Ray
07-14-2007, 06:48 AM
Looks great..Wanna share that cut file??? I want to do the same thing with the slat bows.

RAW
07-14-2007, 10:59 AM
Sure, here's the DXF. Scooting the slotted piece all the way to one end of the table gets the slats bowed @2" from their original position
Nothing fancy. I know I could have just used flat-bar for the bottom of the "T" . . . but I was just psyched to cut stuff out. :)


Now for a question: can anyone explain the relationship between Sheetcam's "cut height" and the dynatorch SP?

I'm just trying to understand the interaction between the two numbers.

Torchhead
07-14-2007, 01:25 PM
I don't know what "SP" is on the DynaTorch. In SheetCAM the "cut height" is the height the tip moves to immediately following a pierce. It's actually "initial" cut height when using a THC.

The sequence should be:

Move the torch down to Pierce Height (higher than cut height)
Fire the Torch to pierce
Wait for an Arc Okay signal from the plasma. Hold table motion until it's valid
Release motion and move head from Pierce Height to Initial Cut Height (Z move down)
Start XY motion and release THC operation after the voltage has stabilized from the pierce. (about .5 to 1 sec)


On some controls you just have to program in a set delay for the pierce and use that to hold motion. It has to be long enough to handle all of the conditions (purge air on or off)


tomCAUDLE
www.CandCNC.com
BOB's
Digital THCs
DXFTool Software
Complete Electronic Packages
Stepper & Servo Systems
Hand Controllers

RAW
07-14-2007, 07:48 PM
Thanks, Tom. That answered my question. I wasn't sure if Sheetcam's cut height was added to the dynatorch THC readings throughout the cut somehow.

Mike Ray
07-15-2007, 08:41 AM
Any body got a Thermal Dynamics hand torch for a Cutmaster 151 they want to get rid of?

Also can I get an extension cable for my 25 foot cable.. Greg from DT i know your out there...? :)
My torch is behind the table on the floor and I want to put it at the end so I can hook a hand torch with a long torch connector to so I can use it in my shop.

RAW
07-21-2007, 02:50 PM
Well, on Thursday, a representative from Pattons Inc. came out to my shop to discuss upgrading my air supply equipment.
To his credit, he didn't try to push a bunch of unwanted and potentially unnecessary equipment on me. I thought that was great. He is going to send me a couple of quotes on an upgraded compressor . . . one of the quotes will be on a refurbished unit. He was very friendly and helpful and made suggestions based on my needs . . . and not based on any commission he might receive. :cool:

I also did some cutting on a mailbox project that I've had lined up for a friend of mine for a while now. Swapped over to the finecut tips . . . quite pleased with the cut quality.
Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPqKDIvx_6c)

I still need to fine-tune my settings.
You'll notice in the video that X negative moves have cut-material bouncing across the surface of the sheet. X positive moves tend to push the spray below the cut (as it should). Any ideas on why that's happening?

Second day of cutting had some terrible cuts and the torch was crashing. Checked the tip and nozzle. They looked pretty rough. I guess these finecut tips are only good for about 15-20 minutes of cutting? Is that what y'all are seeing? Because of sheet warpage, I had a couple of pierces happen while the nozzle was touching the sheet. So, I'm sure that didn't help tip longevity.

Do you guys find that you can run nozzles longer than tips? Or do you replace both at the same time?


Another question for you guys:
What are you using to handle sheet metal in your shop? I mean, how are you moving sheet from your truck to storage and from storage to the table?
I've got a 4ton, a-frame hoist that is a bit overkill. Plus, I can't get it around the table (what with all the wires, torch leads, exhaust ducting, etc).

I've got a few ideas for carts (or even just buying a hydraulic lift cart). I typically work with 18 ga, 16 ga, and 11/10 ga. So using a single-point magnetic lifter just makes the sheet bend.

PlasmaGuy
07-21-2007, 03:54 PM
Your youtube video was nice.

When you upgrade your compressor have you considered placing it outside away from the dust and making your shop a little quiter?:)

DT has a smooth running system. Much nicer than my T-Mate.

RAW
07-21-2007, 04:18 PM
Your youtube video was nice.

When you upgrade your compressor have you considered placing it outside away from the dust and making your shop a little quiter?:)

DT has a smooth running system. Much nicer than my T-Mate.


I had thought about it originally, but . . . since I'm not living near the shop currently (it's in the middle of nowhere in NC . . . and until the house up there is finished, I'm living in GA), the compressor would be more susceptible to theft or vandalism.

And with the downdraft table, the dust has been MUCH better than on my old system without an air handler.

RAW
07-21-2007, 04:22 PM
Another question:

Are y'all doing anything to maintain/service the rails and gear-racks?
Do you clean them with anything? Put mineral oil or gun oil on them?

Mike Ray
07-21-2007, 11:07 PM
I rubbed mine down with trusty ols WD-40. I am sure it will draw dust, but I'll keep em clean.

Mike Ray
07-21-2007, 11:15 PM
Ye Ha I fired my system today. I'll post some shots of the final configs for the guys at DT if they want the shots to add to their Thermal Dynamics section of the install book.

Hats off to Leon. Gave him a call and he called me back and gave me the fix on my voice mail. I was in the shop. I told him what the issue was and he was able to ID the problem and give me the fix.

I know I made the right choice with this system.

More to follow..

Mike Ray
07-21-2007, 11:21 PM
Here are shots of the wire hook ups for the 151. I ran the cables into the wiring harnes in the system to keep it clean.

Instruction manual was well written here. I had to of course actually read it. I was thinking I was thru and got to checking and had not even read the page for hooking these wires up. I looked in the back of the PC rack and was wondering what that cable was for....RTFM (Read The F$#@ing Manual):withstupi

Anyhoo more shots for the DT folk. Real easy hookup.

Mike Ray
07-21-2007, 11:30 PM
OK. In all the excitement I hooked all the wires up and got the system fired. I had been in the back of my rack and inside the torch. Once I restarted I got no Torch drive ?? WTF I say. Looked around...told my self my wires in the torch were screwed. Opened torch back up...10 screws and a cover... Unhooked everything. Fired the system back up ...still no frigin torch motor...panic(not really) stopped and asked myself how much are these motors???

Anyway I decided to step back and actually trouble shoot...And the pics say it all. I did not have the serial cables screwed in and cause an hour of head scratching...and wasted time opening the torch again...

Mike Ray
07-21-2007, 11:37 PM
OK.....TAAAA DAAAAA..... I'm a genious...(not really).

I think I know how DR Frankenstein felt when he put the juice to his two poster....his created terror and mine created this...

I did the drawing in the WE-CIM trace tool. Not bad for a first grader....

I gota start doing the dial in stuff to get the cuts where I want them. This job actually had no dross.

So does this mean I'm a forni.... uh fabricator??? I still can't weld worth a S$#t.

Mike Ray
07-21-2007, 11:42 PM
I had to toss these up...hack hack... also. They show how I dealt with the cables. Only 4 used so I taped the rest out of the way. I covered them completely so they would not short on anthing. I'm going to Bed....

Mike Ray
08-19-2007, 08:39 AM
Hey ya'll out there? Any updates!!! or cool stuff ya'll are cutting. For those of you stuck with your Air Compressor in the shop take a look at a silencer. I got one and it works great. i'll post some pics. It goes on the intake side of the system. That is where most of the noise is created. http://www.nciweb.net/universalsilencers/u5.htm got mine thru Ingersol Rand.

I'll post post a few more pics from the shop today..

scorpion
08-20-2007, 12:47 AM
Hey ya'll out there? Any updates!!! or cool stuff ya'll are cutting. For those of you stuck with your Air Compressor in the shop take a look at a silencer. I got one and it works great. i'll post some pics. It goes on the intake side of the system. That is where most of the noise is created. http://www.nciweb.net/universalsilencers/u5.htm got mine thru Ingersol Rand.

I'll post post a few more pics from the shop today..


How much of a noise difference did you notice after adding it to your system? How much did one run for your system? I would love to drop the noise in the shop a little...

Matt

TJ Ken
08-20-2007, 05:52 PM
Updates on my table.....

Well let's just say that there are some unresolved issues with Dynatorch and my table. I've had some problems with my table from the date of purchase.

I hope everything works out for the best....stay tuned for the final results!!

Mike Ray
08-21-2007, 06:23 PM
It was about 130.00 from Ingersol Rand. I don't know if it would be cheaper at this site. U5 - 1 (1 is the inlet DIA in inches) . It had that number on the side so i looked it up and found the link I posted. I makes a big difference. The IR had a small silncer on it already but this add on made it even quiter.

Mike Ray
08-21-2007, 06:24 PM
Updates on my table.....

Well let's just say that there are some unresolved issues with Dynatorch and my table. I've had some problems with my table from the date of purchase.

I hope everything works out for the best....stay tuned for the final results!!

What are they? Have you spoken with Greg or Leon? Both have been Johnny on the spot for me...

How long have you had your table?

Mike

TJ Ken
08-21-2007, 06:59 PM
I'll pm you with the details of everything, but basically it was issues with the table & gantry right out of the box. The table was warped from the factory & the gantry pinion gear rubbed on the extruded aluminum up top causing drag. But I've just been told recently that these aren't problems with their machine that I must have done something to it.

Yes I've spoken with Greg...in fact I've spoken with Greg numerous times from the first time I've had trouble with my table, which was one week after I purchased it when he told me to use washers as shims to space out the drop side gear rail to get everything to align. Which didn't really work, it kept the gantry from falling off the table (Like it did the first time I installed the gantry), but it never really moved smoothly.

Who tells their customer to modify the machine after 1 week of purchase? Why not do everything in their power to get the machine back in their hands ASAP to correct the problem from the source?
These are questions that I can't seem to get answers to.....


I've had my table about a year.....luckily I've got a friend at a machine shop with a Retro Systems Plasma table that I can use b/c there's been times that I've rather drive the 30 miles to use that plasma table than mess with the Dynatorch.

Mike Ray
08-22-2007, 06:31 AM
I'll pm you with the details of everything, but basically it was issues with the table & gantry right out of the box. The table was warped from the factory & the gantry pinion gear rubbed on the extruded aluminum up top causing drag. But I've just been told recently that these aren't problems with their machine that I must have done something to it.

Yes I've spoken with Greg...in fact I've spoken with Greg numerous times from the first time I've had trouble with my table, which was one week after I purchased it when he told me to use washers as shims to space out the drop side gear rail to get everything to align. Which didn't really work, it kept the gantry from falling off the table (Like it did the first time I installed the gantry), but it never really moved smoothly.

Who tells their customer to modify the machine after 1 week of purchase? Why not do everything in their power to get the machine back in their hands ASAP to correct the problem from the source?
These are questions that I can't seem to get answers to.....


I've had my table about a year.....luckily I've got a friend at a machine shop with a Retro Systems Plasma table that I can use b/c there's been times that I've rather drive the 30 miles to use that plasma table than mess with the Dynatorch.

Can you post some pics of your rig? How did it fall off the table? I'd love to see pictures of the system and the problem your having. Did you talk to Leon?

edwardpic
08-22-2007, 12:30 PM
TJ,
Dynatorch does have aluminum shims for the drop side gantry alignment. Luckily I have a mill here and had to make my own. At first the large aluminum plate that holds the drop side gear was rubbing the gear rack, leon said he could ship me one next day air, but I told him i already solved the problem.
Absilutely no issues since then, i use my table commercially at least 3 times a week, and cut out hundreds of parts with not a single problem since original installation. Dont give up on Dynatorch, they are great guys and the machines work great!!!
I started this thread so that all of us as Dynatorch owners could share ideas and shortcuts. There are alot of great people in here to help. Hope you get the issue resolved, cause once you do you will be cutting like nobodys business!!!

TJ Ken
08-22-2007, 01:12 PM
Can you post some pics of your rig? How did it fall off the table? I'd love to see pictures of the system and the problem your having. Did you talk to Leon?

I've got my old digital camera batteries charging. I hope they are still on there. The pics I'm thinking of were taken approximately one week after purchase when I brought it back from Paducah, KY.

It fell off the table b/c the drop side rail was bowed so bad that the gantry lost contact with the rail. This was the very first time that the gantry was place on the table by us. However I was under the impression that the table was "Fully Tested" before I picked it up.
How did they test it if the gantry wouldn't even stay on the table?

The rail was bowed out of alignment by at least 1" on each side straight from the manufacturer.

Yes I've spoken with Leon, but only with issues on the software. Greg told me to call either Leon or Mike with my software issues & then get ahold of greg for mechanical problems.



Edward...
Yes I understand Dynatorch states that sometimes it is necessary to shim the drop side rail out. However, I drove to Paducah to take their training and pick up my machine.
When I got there my machine was fully bolted together and I assumed everything was good to go. I didn't notice the bowed rail b/c I didn't really know what to look for, but I sure noticed it after the gantry fell off. It was really obvious then.
Don't you think the manufacturer would have some sort of Quality Control? Or at least someone with a half way decent "eye" checking things out?

As I stated above...every time I contacted Dynatorch there was always some sort of "Fix" for the problem. Although none of the "fixes" were completely successful.
For the money I spent, I expected a table that was ready to go with little to NO modifications necessary to get it operating properly.


The table being bowed isn't the only problem I've had with the table. The gantry also was dragging on itself from the start too.
The top gear on my 'Y' axis motor was rubbing on the aluminum cross section. I noticed it was wearing a gear pattern on the aluminum & then I disconnected the power to the drives & moved the torch by hand. Sure enough there was quite a bit of drag on the torch, which obviously causes inaccurate cuts/parts. This too was a problem from the very beginning.
Just another example of craftsmanship put into the table.

edwardpic
08-22-2007, 01:20 PM
We all would love to see some pictures. I am in no way associated with Dynatorch, just a customer. Ive been happy with mine, and used it quite frequently.
I understand the cost involved and everything should run smooth as silk. I would suggest if the gantry is that bad (havent seen it) that you contact Dynatorch about a replacement. I too would be frustrated and can totally understand. I hope they send out what you need and everything goes better soon.
I will check back to see when pictures are posted to get a eye view of what you describe.

Mike Ray
08-23-2007, 07:12 AM
TJ,

What state are you in? Leon is one of the owners and he is one of the designers of the table mechanics. Once you get the PICS up so we can see them, maybe we can use our collective knowledge (along with some other folks out there :) ) to help you get your system straightened out.

Leon Drake and Walt Tyler (Another Principal)need to be made aware of the issues with your system. In my experience ALL the guys at DT are very dedicated to their systems.

The reputaion of these guys and the quality of their system is why I chose their product. I saw the DT, the PCAM and the Torch Mate all in action in person and by FAR the DT is a superior system.

I am just a DT owner also and just know my experience with the Guys and Gals at DT have been nothing but the greatest!!


Mike

TJ Ken
08-23-2007, 12:43 PM
I'm in Oklahoma.

I went home last night to check the old digi camera after the batteries got charged. Unfortunately I don't have any pictures on there anymore. If I can find the other memory card, there's a chance that there is some pics on there. I'll call my brother & see if he has the other memory card tonight.

DT is aware of the problems with my table. They have been from the very start of my troubles. It's not like I'm going to spend that kind of money & then not contact them when there's a problem with the machine I just bought.
They have just seemed to be reluctant to help with these issues.

My gantry has been at DT for about 4 weeks now and the table has been there for about 2 weeks.
Here's the latest I just heard back from them....
- I'm responsible for the cost of replacement parts on the gantry & the labor involved to "align" it. WTF? The gantry pinion gear rubbed on the top rack from the very beginning!

- I'm responsible for any repairs/replacement of my table. So I should spend another $500 for them to fix (That's the nice word) the table or do like they suggested buy a new table for $1900??....I don't think so.
I'm not much of a gambler & really don't feel comfortable giving them any more of my money.
When I expressed that to them they said that I'm welcome to drive to Paducah (Again) to inspect the table before I purchase it & if anything needs to be changed, then they can make the modifications on the spot.
That's not going to happen, my business is already hurting w/o having a plasma table here to make parts with.
They are saying that I'm responsible for any repairs to my table b/c their warranty has been voided due to modifications made to my table. Well that doesn't make any sense....I HAD to modify the table to make it work.
To me they seem like their running me around in circles and aren't willing to stand behind their product.
Oh here's a kicker too....I'm also responsible for $500 worth of shipping costs to get my table/gantry back to me.:confused:

At this point I'm ready to just get the gantry back & build my own table. I surely can't do any worse than what I received when first got my table.
I offered to pay for the "aligning" of the gantry & whatever replacement parts were needed for it but told them I wasn't happy with the options they gave me on the table & the shipping prices too. That was in an email two days ago (Documented Now!) and haven't heard anything back from them yet.

I will be getting rid of this table as soon as I can get it back up to working condition & I will take this as a lesson learned.
Phone conversations aren't an acceptable way of keeping records of problems with machinery & their manufacturer no matter what their "Reputation" is.

Mike Ray
08-24-2007, 08:58 AM
Man I hate your having issues like that!!! Have you spoken with Leon or Walt on the issue? Givem both a call and talk it over with them.

TJ Ken
08-24-2007, 12:24 PM
Man I hate your having issues like that!!! Have you spoken with Leon or Walt on the issue? Givem both a call and talk it over with them.

No I haven't spoken with them. I've just spoken with Greg & Bruce on the issue. I imagine they've relayed the information to at least Walt.

I just found out this morning from Marilyn that my realigned gantry is on its way back to me at my expense along with a set of blueprints for me to build my own table.

Mike Ray
09-02-2007, 05:40 PM
I can't see the forrest for the crap...:)

Mike Ray
09-02-2007, 06:03 PM
Okay next phase - Exhaust.

I ran a few test patterns to make sure my table runs right and I now have dust all over the place. Can't imagine what happens after a few months with no exhaust. Also the smoke looked like a 5 alarm fire. I will post a few pics of my system from Grainger (www.grainger.com). I found a few others that come close in price.
www.greenheck.com and www.centralblower.com.

I decided to go with Air Exhaust instead of a water table. This phase is going to cost between 2k and 3k dollars depending on how I do the out flow. I want to filter it so I can recycle the air in the winter.

My Dayton is a 7H138 Assembly list at $1412.00. I am going to skirt the table at first just so I can get started using my system in production. I will build a diffuser system and have all the material once I get the table going.

My objective is to put this assembly to use as a shop exhaust also. At that price a unitask system is not what I want to do. I'll post as I go...

One day I hope to make cool stuff. My knowledge progression is as follows.

Choose Table-Size, brand, plasma, etc.
Run Power - only got shocked once !
Run Air - bend lines and chew asses at Ingersol Rand - I like the system in the end.
Deal with dust - Water or Air --- I chose Air...my be a costly choice :)

The research I have done on this system has a lot of hour tied to it, but I know I am just scratching the surface!!!

Mike Ray
09-02-2007, 06:17 PM
Here is the blower pieces being put on the system. I'll post a few of the finished blower later. MAN this thing moves some air. One shot you can see a blower from a larg HVAC in the back ground. These compression pullies are cool. If you need to remove them they have threaded holes you screw the bolts into that "press" the pully apart.

RAW
09-02-2007, 06:29 PM
Ah, yes.

I'm familiar with the mess. I've got a handle on it now. But since I haven't been up to the shop in almost 3 weeks now . . . . I'm getting antsy.

And the exhaust system: good move. ;)

If you figure out how the cover actually attaches to the blower frame . . . let me know. It looks like it needs those nutsert things like you find in computers (that function as stand-offs for the motherboard). But mine didn't come with anything like that.

edwardpic
09-02-2007, 06:44 PM
Hey guys,
Its cool to see all the exhaust designs and what different DT owners are using on their tables. I guess my setup is the most basic. I use my table commercially about 4 times a week, and cut hundreds of parts. All I have on my table is a skirt on both side out of .040 aluminum and a simple 24" shop fan from home depot blowing from the "home" side of the table blowing under the slats and sending the smoke right out the door. I dont have any issues with smoke or fallout. All I do is open the shop roll-up door, turn the fan on high and cut. Im not sure why, maybe its what im cutting and settings, but I hardly have any smoke or even slag on my parts. Count me as a lucky one I guess. So for $125 thats my expensive exhaust system. lol
I probably just jinxed myself now.

Mike Ray
09-03-2007, 08:34 AM
Mine has the nuts. I did not get any bolts for the motor. Call Grainger and tell them they owe you. Off the exploded diagram.
22 - Hex Head Cap Screw 5/16 - 18 x 3/4
23 - 5/16 Flat Washer
24 - 5/16 Nut Grip Retainer

Mike Ray
09-03-2007, 08:35 AM
RAW,

Where did you get your plumbing/duct work for your system?

Mike Ray
09-03-2007, 08:36 AM
You could tack weld some bolts or nuts in the whole. We are after all sorta fabricators :)

RAW
09-03-2007, 04:15 PM
You could tack weld some bolts or nuts in the whole. We are after all sorta fabricators :)

That was actually the path I figured I'd take.
It's not as if the cover is structural.

As for the ductwork: there's a heating/air supply store not too far from me. I was able to get everything I needed from them. I taped most of the junctions, but zipped some short self-tapping screws into a few spots before taping.

Mike Ray
09-03-2007, 08:11 PM
Here is my blower in up blast configuration....I also could not stand it anymore!!! :)

BTW ....Damn I'm Tired!!!

edwardpic
09-04-2007, 09:09 AM
Looks great Metalhead...Congrats!!!! Time to sit back with a beer, rest and burn some metal!!

Mike Ray
10-23-2007, 12:01 AM
Well I've been workin on the shop and getting the stuff together for my exhaust system. I actually have a Jekel and Hyde situation with my shop since I don't have benches yet. So since I bought steel to do a water table and then decided not to build one, I am using the plate and tube steel for making benches to get the cr@# ...uh important stuff off the floor.

I got my slats cut and part of my plate (6x14) with a chop saw and cutting wheel... Should have had pictures of that. Big ass DT sitting there and I gotta carve my way to it....typical day in my life :withstupi...

Here is my high tech metal handling system. I will use it and as i build my draft table I will allow for it being able to roll under the table. Got it at NAPA. It had been sittin in the corner collecting dust for at least a year and a half and for a few months with a $100.00 off list price on it. I told him to hook me up and he was glad to be rid of it. That plate is 3/16 by 40 inches by 10 feet.

I'll post some pics of my gussett plates and my work bench fab. I used the DT to cut my flanges. Now if I could only weld.....I'm sure there is a forum for that out there some where. You all will see what I mean when I post pics :)

Tech question ... I am getting bevel at THC of 80 at a feed rate of 60IPM running 60 watts. What can I do. Little or no dross but I think I should have less bevel. I'll try to get a few pics of that also.

Mike Ray
10-28-2007, 09:35 AM
Man I gota learn a few tweaks for mt DT but she did just what I asked. I did these flanges in Plasmamate and made a few tweaks in Corel. Everything is going together well for this bench.

I like being able to use my DT to help finish the fabrication (Cool I can really say that :) ) of my shop. So here are my bench PICs.

These flanges are 3/16 plate. The top is also 3/16 and the legs are 11 gauge 2 inch tube. Anybody got settings for 3/16 plate? I used 60 ipm with a THC of 80 at 60 amps. Little or no dross, but I want to workout my bevel issues.

Does direction of cut matter? Clockwise verses Counterclockwise? I've noticed the cuts are clocwise and the edge of the whole where the flange fell out looks better...thoughts?

Mike Ray
10-28-2007, 09:38 AM
Here are more of the Bench Build

Mike Ray
10-28-2007, 09:55 AM
Here are a few more. I am going to finish fab today and put some 2 inch angle in the area half way between each leg upright to support the top when I put stuff that is to heavy for it on it :). The table is 10 feet long, 30 inches wide and 36 inches tall. I will have two like this that will sit in the corner and another that rolls that is 4x6. I cut the tops and the flanges from a piece of 6x14 I was going to use for my water table bottom.

I may come back and put the same feet that are on my DT that I got from McMasters. I am also going to us 2 inch x 3/16 angle and build a half shelf under the table top. I know just another area for CR#P!!! At least it will be off the floor!!

I'm gonna clean the table up and put my roller paint job on it. Still deciding if I am going to use red or blue....red I think since I got half a gallon of it already :)

I got a huge vise I am going to put on the roll around table. Got it for a $100 at a "junk" store. It's gota be 80 to 100 years old. Cool though.

Hope ya'll are fabin and not just watchin football!!! I rigged up my old Kenwood Stereo with 200watt amp and two Bose 4.2 speakers to jamb and listen to games and racin... Glad I live out in the country, this baby will jamb!!!

Back to the shop!! More Later!!!

RAW
11-09-2007, 06:09 PM
Does direction of cut matter? Clockwise verses Counterclockwise? I've noticed the cuts are clocwise and the edge of the whole where the flange fell out looks better...thoughts?

Mike, cut direction does make a difference.

IIRC,
Clockwise for positive shapes;
Counter-clockwise for negative shapes.

Mike Ray
11-18-2007, 09:32 AM
Can the cut direction be set in the software.

Mike Ray
11-18-2007, 09:36 AM
Cut direction would be a cool feature on the menu when you load the job... If it is not already there... :)

RAW
11-18-2007, 11:11 AM
I'm out of commission after a surgery, so I can't even go check my office computer, much less my shop computer . . ..

But . . .

I use Sheetcam to set cut direction when creating my cut files.
It is intelligent enough to recognize which shapes are inside other shapes and will set cut direction based on your "outside offset" or "inside offset" choices.

As for doing it in DT software . . . I'm sure there's a way, and if I was able to look at the program I could help you. Sorry.

Mike Ray
12-27-2007, 12:01 PM
Hey all if you don't have the subscription service I recommend you get it. The latest updates to Plasmamate are cool. http://www.dynatorch. com/WhatsNew.htm

Mike Ray
12-31-2007, 07:36 AM
I have a question... Leon,Greg or Walt may be able to answer :)
I bought a hand torch for my 151 cutmaster so I can use my unit for other things in the shop. Will I need to disconnect the wires from the DT system before I use the hand torch? I was thinking of putting the wires on a two position switch on the front of my DT control panel and label it Torch with two positions Hand and Machine. This would let me flip a switch and isolate the torch from the table. Thoughts??

Mike Ray
01-06-2008, 06:59 PM
Leon said that a hand torch would be ok to hook up and not unhook the cables from the DT

Mike Ray
01-06-2008, 07:01 PM
Here are a few PICS of my new PM (Preventative Mantenance) Device :) Easy on the gear and disposable.

RAW
01-07-2008, 12:21 AM
Leon said that a hand torch would be ok to hook up and not unhook the cables from the DT

Glad to hear that. I've been considering buying a handtorch for my machine as well.

Thanks, Mike.

I'm mostly recovered from my surgery and plan to start spending more time up at the shop. I've got a sculpture that got interrupted; I'm anxious to get back to work.

Mike Ray
02-09-2008, 06:10 AM
Hope everyone is burning well !!! I am working a project here that will be for a residential area. I am still having fits getting my shop exhaust finished with my schedule!! I added a Syncr200 tig and a 252 Mig to my equipment list so now I've gota run power feeds for those. By my shop is comming together slowly (Slower than I want) but the table works great and I am getting good with Corel X3 and CuttingShop in the drawing department. I did the attached drawing from scratch. Can anyone tell me about leed ins? If I draw a circle that has a lead in, do I close the circle or do I stop short? Yes the image is there just click on it :) Happy Burnin dudes!!

RAW
02-09-2008, 10:02 AM
I'm needing to purchase a TIG welder pronto.
I took a workshop a few weeks ago that really opened my eyes to the superiority of TIG. I've been wasting all this time on Stick and MIG!!

As for the circles, I'm telling you . . . . pick up Sheetcam. Then you don't have to manually add your lead-ins and lead-outs. Sheetcam does a great job of doing that stuff for you, even giving you options for cut order, type of lead-in (curve, perpendicular, tangent), etc etc.

But if you're doing it manually, I used to just leave the circles closed, and add a tangential lead-in at a quadrant point (12,3,6,9)

And your drawing: Just be aware that as those shapes are cut, the single-stroke curves will be cut in 2 directions. The torch will follow the line into your shape and then follow it back out, resulting in a distorted cut zone. Does that make sense?

RAW
02-09-2008, 10:08 AM
And for the most part, I've stopped using CorelDraw.
Wish I had figured this out sooner. Could have saved myself a lot of time considering the DXF problems with CorelDraw.

Anyway, I am now designing almost exclusively in Rhino3D.

Mike Ray
02-10-2008, 06:36 AM
I use We-CIM from DT. It has the Cutting Shop program in it. It lets you see the points in a curve and optimize them. It also lets you fix cut direction. I made sure all the directions for a run were one path with one direction.

I puts arrows on the line for direction and you just click the line to switch it. Pretty cool once I figured it out.The cut piece looks exactly like the drawing.

On TIG the Syncrowave 200 from Miller has a startup kit that has evrything to get started with TIG for about 2300. It also does stick welding.

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/syncrowave_200/

RAW
02-10-2008, 10:13 AM
So, Mike, I have questions about your file.

I've attached a cropped version below.

What I'm having a hard time with is the single-stroke curves in your design.
I would think that the cut-path would double these lines (one cut in, one cut out).

How are you running the cut-path to avoid that problem?

Mike Ray
02-11-2008, 07:24 AM
Those lines are single line cuts. When I setup the dxf to gcode I selected those lines before I selected the surrounding line. So each line you see in the (Wisteria Flower BTW) is cut before the outline.

RAW
02-12-2008, 10:33 PM
Guys, I've got a problem.

It actually started a long time ago, but I mistook it for a joystick problem.

The Y axis motor is acting up.
When it moves away from home, it seems to be fine.
But when I go to move it back towards home position, the movement stutters and finally stops.
This used to only happen when using the joystick, but now is happening when controlling the gantry with the computer too. Jogging or running g-code.

I've checked the rail, it seems pretty clean. The gear teeth look good.

But when I slide the motor away from the gear rail, the motor turns fine in both directions. When I re-engage it with the gear rail, the stuttering in one direction happens again.

My dynatorch system probably has less than 10 hours of use on it, although I've owned it for a couple of years now (I know--how much does that suck? blame my legal mess with my house construction).

It can't possibly be the motor going bad can it? I mean, it's almost brand new!!

I've sent an email to Leon for him to call me tomorrow morning.

Just thought I'd see if y'all could give me some suggestions before then.

Mike Ray
02-13-2008, 06:20 AM
How much surface rust is on the gear rack? You may want to do some runs with the test program. (If you don't have the software maintenance, get it) The new update has some test software for the motors. New version of Plasma Mate is cool also.

Another option would be to switch motors from z to y and see if the problem moves. It will at least get you over the hump. If it does not move check your wire harness.

I'm sure the DT folks will pull through for you. Hey when are they going to start selling extended warranties ( I know were being watched :) )

I think an extended warranty to cover "moving parts" and "electronics" would be good. Have the two and allow us to pick one or both.

I think the animatics motors have a two year warranty (http://www.animatics.com/) I don't know what the DT agreement with them is.

Don't feel bad about use. I am 300 feet from my machine and can't get it fully engaged because of my real job. I'm tellin ya I'm gonna quit...I'm gonna quit.... but I like to eat :)

Hope that helps.

RAW
02-13-2008, 06:48 PM
Well, I called all of the Dynatorch folks today.
Spoke with Greg, Leon, and even Mike.

They're helping me figure out the problem.
Leon suspects something funny with the motor.
So, I'm sending it to them to check out, along with the gearbox.

It's weird, cuz it only stutters and gives me issues in one direction.

The gear rail and bearing rail both look pretty good. And I would suspect if they were an issue, the motor would stutter in both directions.

Anyway . . . . hope it's something simple. Whatever the case, I'm positive Dynatorch will help me through the problem.

RAW
02-23-2008, 12:55 AM
So, Bruce ran the motor and gearbox through their paces.
Said everything looks fine.

Hmmm.

The one thing that looks to be the culprit:

There's a tiny amount of play in the nylon slides that the Y motor-carriage moves on. That tiny amount of play coupled with the old spring-style tensioning appears to be tilting the motor carriage just a fraction of a degree. And I'm guessing that's adding mechanical resistance between the gear and gear rail. You can actually see extra wear (compared to almost none) on the top half of the gear versus the lower half.
Still seems weird that it'd only stutter and fail in one direction though.

Anyway, I've asked that they send me the pneumatic upgrade kit. Since the pneumatic system seems to push the carriage more in line with the nylon slide rails (versus the springs pulling from about 3 inches above that plane) . . . I think it should eliminate the tilt, while still providing gear to gear-rail tension.

I'll keep my fingers crossed.

RAW
02-23-2008, 12:59 AM
In the meantime, I have a question about settings.

I'm running the finecut parts.
Last time I cut, I was cutting 16 ga. mild steel, very clean, no rust.

The Hypertherm manual suggests 79V, 40A and 150ipm.

I was running 40A and 115ipm. But when I set the SP to 110, the tip wanted to crash. At 123sp, it ran fine (though maybe a touch high).

Any thoughts from the collective?

BTW, my air supply runs through a refrigerated dryer and a dessicant dryer before it goes to the hypertherm.

Mike Ray
02-26-2008, 07:26 AM
I have been using mine at the 80v-85v settings at 150ipm with no issues. I have also been playing with my power settings with good results cutting 16 gauge between 20 and 30 amps.

Mike Ray
02-26-2008, 07:39 AM
Well I finally got started and have few pics. As I get more I will post. Pretty staight forward config. We will see if it works :)

I cut a few pieces for the sheeting. I of course am using the table to make thes cuts.

I am using the joystick and doing straight cuts. I measure and line up the system using the laser guide. I can watch the cut (Wearing safety gear!!! ) and start and stop the cut with very simple push of the buttons. The config on the Joystick allows me to use one control for free hand or the other for staight cuts. It is a standard logitech game controller ($20.00) and I put a USB extension on it so I can walk down the table and watch the work. Great feature!!

Once I cut I can then turn the piece angled on the table and make the next cut, again using the laser to line up the measurements. My cuts are clean and have not needed and cleanup after the cut.

More to come...!

Conrad_Turbo
02-29-2008, 10:20 AM
I've been looking at a plasma table for quite some time and looking at the Dynatorch it looks to be one of the TRUE production quality machines. I have read every post of every page in this thread and it seems the majority of the complaints is with the actual plasma cutter and tweaking the settings. Maybe this would be a good area of Dynatorch to do some documentation to give ballpark settings (if they haven't already?) for different material and thicknesses? Kind of like with a MIG welder when it gives you a recommended heat/wire feed speed for a particular thickness material. It's a starting point and then the user can tweak from there, with some guidelines to help along the way?

I will be talking with some of the Dynatorch guys as I plan on picking a CNC table sometime this year (hopefully!!!). Any of you have recommendations for someone who will be new to the game of running/owning a CNC table? I am not new to CAD (been playing with ACAD to SW for the past 13 years) and I'm only 25; however I have always sent my .dxf's to get lasercut and then I go to pick up the parts. So I have no formal/practical CNC cutting experience.

Mike Ray
03-01-2008, 06:32 AM
Conrad,

The settings are supplied by the Plasma Company. They are recomendations that get you close. It is sort of an art to see what you can do to cut fast and clean. Sort of on the same line as welding. Your climate plays into it also. While I have a Themal Dynamics unit I love (100amp single phase). A lot more support on other lists out there for the Hypertherm units. Google "Jim Colt" Hypertherm and go http://groups.yahoo.com/group/plasmacutting/ for tons of info on how to cut.

I think you see where most people have issues. Software or Cutting. Dynatorch just seemed to have the best software and the best technology for me. So you wont be disapointed with the DT system. Cutting issues most of the time are more "Clean Dry Air" related.

Conrad_Turbo
03-03-2008, 11:09 AM
Conrad,

The settings are supplied by the Plasma Company. They are recomendations that get you close. It is sort of an art to see what you can do to cut fast and clean. Sort of on the same line as welding. Your climate plays into it also. While I have a Themal Dynamics unit I love (100amp single phase). A lot more support on other lists out there for the Hypertherm units. Google "Jim Colt" Hypertherm and go http://groups.yahoo.com/group/plasmacutting/ for tons of info on how to cut.

I think you see where most people have issues. Software or Cutting. Dynatorch just seemed to have the best software and the best technology for me. So you wont be disapointed with the DT system. Cutting issues most of the time are more "Clean Dry Air" related.

Awesome thanks for the heads up! I had a good talk with Walt on Friday of last week and got a lot of my questions answered. The only thing I forgot to ask is that instead of going with a Thermal Dynamics (I am a big fan of that company as I have a TA185 that has performed flawless for me) Cutmaster 101, there is the new Cutmaster True 102...can this be wired up for CNC control the same as the "old" model Cutmaster 101? I will do some digging with the Hypertherm units as well, I've also heard a ton of good reviews about them as well.

Mike Ray
03-16-2008, 10:10 AM
Here are a few PICS of my exhaust build out. I am building out onto the existing table frame. The system in going in well and I got a lot accomplished yesterday. It is amazing what you get done when you actually get to go to the shop :) . It took me weeks to get the frame on the right side in but I did the left side and all the skin on the right in one day. (Plus some other stuff).

The next step in to fill in the middle. I am going to make a pull out cart that fits the whole. I will be able to pull it out or remove it completly. It will have casters. The edge of each side will be "rails" for the cart.

I made the system high enough for my Engine Puller "Crane" to fit under when loading heavier plate.

I am putting the blower outside on a frame set in concrete until I can get my outside pad poured for it and my air compressor.

Mike

Mike Ray
03-16-2008, 10:41 AM
I have a rant.

Really just info for people looking at IR. I bought a 2340-L5 15 months ago and got it installed about 6 months past that. It has maybe 10 hours of run time at 15 months (12 month warranty) and the motor fried. I had to get a motor locally to keep working (and it is a better unit). I took the old motor and threw it on the desk at IR and the jury is out on wether they are going to cover it under warranty. I'll update ya'll when I find out. The guys says they got a bunch of these back in. I took it to a pro eletric motor shop and he told me the windings shorted out. IR wanted $400 to replace it (Paid $1199.00 for the whole thing). Got a better motor locally for $300.00 and did not have to wait. On a side note he had a nice reman compressor for 1200.00 that was two stage laydown unit. I thought about getting it and taking my cheapo IR and burning it in the IR parking lot :) .

2340-L5 apparently is their competitor line to Lowes and Home Depot. They did not tell me this was a cheap built unit so ask questions. Another lesson learned. (Wisdom can't be taught :) . You get what you pay for is the truest of statements. I even tried to go with higher class stuff and got hosed. Of course the way to go with IR is their 2475 line. It is about 1000.00 more (You can catch them on sale for about 2k) but it is a much better system overall.

But with the 2475 the Air Dryer I bought would not be big enough for that unit. The 2475 is 24cfm and would need a bigger Air Dryer that can support that through put. This would be a few hundred more.

So what I am saying again is the table is only part of the math and investment. I would add another $1500.00 to my exhaust costs. So consider doing the air right you will need between $4 and $5 K to get it right the first time.

Hope this give folks a heads up. My pain can be others gain !!!

Mike

Mike Ray
03-16-2008, 11:00 AM
I think this is the coolest !!

I think about robots building and repairing themselves, but I am using my table to finish itself :)

YouTube - Dynatorch Cutting

My table cutting parts for my table exhaust using the Logitech contoller. I guess this would be free hand cutting. I find my self making a lot of straight cuts this way chopping up steel.

RAW
03-16-2008, 03:53 PM
Lookin' good, Mike.
I'm up in my shop this weekend to retrofit the pneumatic gear tensioning system onto my table.

And then practice some TIG welding.

RAW
03-16-2008, 08:10 PM
Pneumatic system installed easily enough.
Problem is . . . I don't know what kind of fitting I need to go from the air-compressor to the tiny air hose.
Anyone know what I need to buy specifically?:confused:
Visual aids are good. :D

I think another thing that was contributing to my earlier trouble with the movement . . . . one of the nylon blocks that the motor slides on is loose.
The other block has little to no play in it. The problem block wiggles a good deal.

I'm gonna call the fellas tomorrow and ask for a new one.

Mike Ray
03-17-2008, 08:33 AM
Here is a shot of mine :) ..... Air line connection that is :)

Crappy Picture - But I added another regulator at the distro block (Which is also a 1 Micron filter) then went to the plumbing section and got a compression fitting that would fit the regulator on one side and the ity bity ass (mechanical term) neumatic line on the other. I'll take a close up pic today and post it.

Oh yeah!! All parts from Lowe's. Regulator in the Air Compressor section of tools and the compression fitting from plumbing ilse.

RAW
03-18-2008, 09:33 PM
Well, I went to Lowe's.
I was in the plumbing section looking for ANYTHING to connect to this tiny tubing.
NOTHING they carry is intended for tubing that small!!! :confused:

GRRRRRR.

I have the worst luck with Lowe's and Home Depot. No matter what I'm looking for . . . they're either out of it or don't carry it at the store I'm in.

I guess I'll have to call Dynatorch and get some part number or something so that I can order it.

KjZitur
03-19-2008, 12:59 PM
Try McMaster-Carr.com....they have just about anything one would need and if I order it before 6:00 PM , I will have it by 3 o'clock in the afternoon

RAW
03-19-2008, 03:26 PM
Yep, got some sizing info from Greg this morning.
And went to Mcmaster's website and found what I need.

Unfortunately, it may be a couple of weeks before I can get back to the shop.

Edwardo
03-23-2008, 08:06 PM
Hey guys

Got my table mostly done, just need the slats and slat holders on, bit of a snag with the plasma unit, but should have it this week sometimes. Thought i had ordered the table from DT, but as it turns out i didnt, so picked up the steel and built my own, went with 1/4 tubing instead of 1/8, looks real good, as soon as i figure out how to post pics here i'll send some.

EDD

RAW
04-06-2008, 08:02 PM
Well . . . damnit.

I finally got back up to the shop. I installed the air-fitting from McMaster. It worked like a charm.

But when I turned everything on and tried to run the gantry around . . ..

I'm STILL getting that hesitation/stuttering on the Y axis. And it's only in the one direction!! I'm so frustrated.

If I'm running at a higher speed, it doesn't throw a fault now. But . . . at slower speeds the stuttering will stop the Y axis completely in the one direction.

One thing I did notice today . . . you can hear a "clatter" as the gantry rolls down the Y axis towards the "home corner". I can't detect any wobbling or weirdness from LOOKING, but . .. . putting a hand on the gantry . . . you can FEEL a roughness to correspond to the "clatter."

My gantry was fully assembled when I picked it up in Paducah. Is there anything I should check? I know this is impossible to diagnose without being in the room with the problem, but . . . . I'm just at the end of my sanity here.

I've sent an email to the Dynatorch guys and I'm sure I'll also call first thing tomorrow morning. I sure hope they can help me out of this jam.

The table and motors and all of that have sooooooo few hours of operation time. I just don't understand what is causing this problem.

RAW
04-06-2008, 09:39 PM
So, let's see if this works.

Here's a video I just shot of the y-axis motor moving along with joystick control, but with pneumatic pressure backed down to 20psi so that it won't stutter as much.

Each time it stops coming towards the camera . . . I have the joystick pulled towards me still. In order to get it moving again, I try releasing the joystick and pulling it again.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U944E7n4wuA

RAW
04-06-2008, 09:57 PM
This is the same y-axis movement with keyboard control . . . which is faster. So with the pressure backed down it'll move, but . . . notice the increased "clatter" as it moves towards the camera.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0N9VdWtt390

If I increase the pneumatic pressure to 40 psi as suggested, the movement will stutter even at this speed.

I'm so confused (and increasingly irritated).

I really think there's something faulty with the way the motor gear is engaging the gear rail.

cstroke
04-07-2008, 05:36 PM
This is the same y-axis movement with keyboard control . . . which is faster. So with the pressure backed down it'll move, but . . . notice the increased "clatter" as it moves towards the camera.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0N9VdWtt390

If I increase the pneumatic pressure to 40 psi as suggested, the movement will stutter even at this speed.

I'm so confused (and increasingly irritated).

I really think there's something faulty with the way the motor gear is engaging the gear rail.

did you send the video down to bruce, greg or russell?
they would be able to diagnose this quickly i'd think
good luck
mine studdered like that on the x axis and i found my gear was rubbing the side frame.. my own doing..

Edwardo
04-07-2008, 05:59 PM
tried to reply before, internet was screwed up here, may have sent raw a bunch of repeats... anyways i was looking at my machine afterwards and noticed that my gears that come off the motors seem narrower than yours, i just measured them and the teeth are 3/8 " wide, from the vid it looks like yours are alot longer and to me the longer they are the more in line they would have to be to mesh proper, if they are the proper ones to begin with, not sure if its a different style from before or what but it sure makes a racket moving, also looked up where the gear shaft goes into the motor and it looks like there is a bearing or bushing, that may be screwed, but like i said it would be strange to have x and y go at same time, and like i also said, im new at this and dont know nothing about these machines, mines laid up too... so who am i to talk, but i do know your frustration and such as these are high tech units and i am a low tech thinker, not much u can adjust on them with a hammer.... Best of luck
EDD

RAW
04-07-2008, 07:19 PM
Yup, I emailed these videos to everyone over at Dynatorch.
Leon's been emailing me since his phone was down.

Now that I've got DSL up here in my shop, I even offered to use my webcam and Skype the dynatorch guys!


Russell walked me through some things over the phone.
He had me loosen all of the screws that hold the extruded frame around the Y motor. Then he had me squeeze the sides of that assembly together and retighten the screws.
That cleared up the majority of the problem! The movement is MUCH smoother. That clatter noise is gone too. Ran through Walt's Warmup from the beginning up to about 900 ipm. And all of the movement was great.

Basically, the steps Russell suggested eliminated some of the play between the extruded aluminum-to plastic slide-to extruded aluminum.
Problem is now the motor carrier takes a LOT of pressure to slide it along those plastic blocks.

I still think something is out of whack, but . . . that's got me running smoothly for the time being. I just think there's something slightly off with the way the gear engages the gear rail.

I'll just have to keep an eye on it.

But I think I can get started on my next to sculptures within the next week or so (whenever I can get back up here to the shop). Just got 2200 pounds of Cor-ten into the shop today.

Mike Ray
07-05-2008, 09:00 AM
I think I have the slowest build on the planet for a DT machine !!! Not DT fault I am just slow as crap!!

I have my air ducting complete (Will post pics tonight) and today I am hot wiring and Installing the exhaust motor.

I will go back and hook it in to auto start next week.

Have have limited myself to small cuts and table parts until now becuase of the smoke danger. It always looks like my shop is on fire when I cut without it and the dust gets everywhere.

Looking forward to pushing my 100amp unit to see how thick I can cut. I have some 1/2 3/4 and 1 inch drops to play with for setup testing.

Off to the shop!!!

:rainfro:

morvaman
07-06-2008, 09:15 AM
I started my machine last thursday with no problems. I cut some circles and I am now ready to get into some serious work .
I will be finished with my exhaust system some time this week, but this dt was the best choice.

Mike Ray
07-09-2008, 09:48 AM
RAW (Or others) - What Magnetic Starter did you use on your blower?

RAW
07-10-2008, 07:47 AM
RAW (Or others) - What Magnetic Starter did you use on your blower?


Mike,

I don't remember exactly which model number, but . . . .

I did order by calling the folks at FactoryMation.com
I'm pretty sure I just gave them all of the fan motor specs and they recommended a magnetic starter.

Mike Ray
07-11-2008, 05:04 PM
www.factorymation.com

PESW-2HP

Leon pointed me there also.

Do you imbed your code or set the software up with pre and post codes?

Thx

Mike Ray
08-02-2008, 01:57 PM
Back after a while. I have the pics from my Duct work. I will get some of the blower to post soon. I put it outside...It's freakin loud inside. It is ok outside. Sounds about like a large AC unit so neighbors 100 yards away should be ok with it. .... :)

I have some caulking and painting left... But we know how that goes :)

Mike Ray
08-02-2008, 02:05 PM
I got the control Leon told me to get. I am a computer goob and this thing has my head smokin!!! I have a request out to Leon for a diagram to hook it up, so I will see what he sends me back.

Here are a few pics of the unit.

Also on my duct work I am playing with the plumbing. It works good and pulls smoke well, but I want to play with it some to see how much I can tweak it.

I have less that 500 bucks in it (Not counting the $1400.00 blower) and really 8 to 12 hours of build time after it is all added up. But doing it again I would get the exhaust system and not the tube cutting attachement.

I'll get some pics of the wire in on the controller once I proce it won't smoke the unit :)....

Mike Ray
08-27-2008, 11:02 PM
Well I finally got it all working. M08 and M09 now control the motor. My adventures with Factory Mation and DT to get this going was probably my hardest part of the whole build.

First I will tell you if you order the Factory Mation part. It is listed a PESW .75 unit PESWS12AAX-RM22 not the PESWS12BAX-RM22. Difference being 115v coil on the 12AAX and a 220 volt coil on the 12BAX is 220.

When you get your unit open it up and take out the wires... Take the cover off the internal button control and take out the connection wires. I did not do this at first and I have a story about it in a few.

Then you will have a controller with only the Contactor relay, A small point to point switch on the side of the contactor relay and the Over load relay on the output side of the Contactor Relay.

I first ordered the PESW for my motor blower 2hp 220volt (PESWS12BAX-RM22). This looked fine and I hooked it up and manual button control worked great. So for manual control this is the until you want.

Well I wanted auto control and manual control (both not possible).

So I hooked up the DT and it would not work from the table. So I went to the control box and pressed the start button.... This started my problems. It popped a breaker. Genious I am, I am sure I did something wrong, so I did it again... Same result.

Leon and I chatted back and forth and After a few pics and talks I realized I had a 220 volt coil... Well I needed to 110.

So I ordered another unit after talking to Factory Mation. (PESWS12AAX-RM22) Hooked it all up and nothing... Leon had me check a few things and I had blown a PICO fuse on the control board. So I went to our local Electronic supply place that has been around since Moses.... Got the part I needed and put the system back together and it now works fine....

Finally :)

Mike Ray
08-27-2008, 11:16 PM
Well this has been a long drawn out process that really should not take but a few days to a week to do if you do some prep work before you pickup your table. I am in no hurry so I took my time learning along the way.

I am still a firm believer in wanting a system that was ready for me to hook up and go. I have been doing this build since February 2007 and DT has been there for me all the way. So if support after the sale and quality are important, DT is your brand.

I am now going to promote the system and get busy on the business end of this unit. I know it cuts great and I am well versed in quite a few of the apps for drawing and making files.

I will now start talking about the business side of these tables on this forum and will be wanting feed back on what you all are making money in your areas with and how you promote your systems.

Taa Frekin Daa

I'm finished building...and happy as heck about it!!!!

Mike
:rainfro:

Edwardo
08-29-2008, 03:19 PM
Looks Good Mike

Im at the same stage as you, got the machine, know how to run it for the most part, now what can i do to generate income with it? I made a bunch of yard/garden things, which is good for learning the machine, sold a few... made our own sign etc, but now the time is fast approaching where i want my investment to start paying back. Before i bought my DT i read some guy saying "making stuff is easy, finding someone to buy it is the hard part" ...
We have been waiting to advertise what we have and what we can do, until we can do what we say, with what we have!..
My biggest problem is i work away from home for a couple months at a time, so once i start to advertise i pretty much have to commit myself to it and give up my real job, i'd hate to have someone call and have to ask them if it can wait 2 months for me to get back... but at the same time i need earn a income to support my family, which my real job does...
But our plan from the begining of this venture was to start a business at home to keep me home, so we may just have to bite the bullet and go for it, never know until you try, can always go back to my other job if need be.
I'm more of a maker of things than a marketer, but i think marketing is the key for anything so i may look up someone when i get home for advise... I have a few ideas for art, the sign type thing may be ok, will check around with welding shops in our area, and also the HVAC... With HVAC though i would rather just cut peices and have whoever orders it to bend and assemble it themself... also i've been told there is a demand now for old style return air grates... lots of different things a guy can do i guess, trial and error and see what people want... another problem i have is knowing what to charge ??? figuring out the material is easy (and its risen alot) but what is the going rate for the DT?

EDD

bvweld
09-06-2008, 11:47 AM
Well I wanted auto control and manual control (both not possible). QUOTE




If you want Auto & Manual control of your blower you can use a spdt (ON-OFF-ON)switch to control your output to your coil of your contactor. I wired my blower this way. As Mike found out it will have to be a 110V coil on your contactor because your output from your DT Control is 110V. Hope this helps.

bvweld
09-11-2008, 07:08 PM
Is anyone flame cutting with their DT and have you had good luck with the transition? I have a job coming up cutting 1" steel. If I magdrill my start holes I might be able to cut with my Hypertherm 1250. I know I will soon need to be able to switch from plasma to oxyfuel but was wondering what kind of results others have had. Do I need to spring for the new THC or is it not necessary? It looks like it would be a hassle swapping the two THC every time you had to switch processes. Thanks

Mike Ray
11-09-2008, 09:30 AM
Ok everyone I hope we are all getting time in the 4th state of matter !!!

I want to have a practical not hypothetical talk about job pricing. I know this is a close to the chest topic it seems and one needs a 12 sided die and some Shamens to read between the posts if you know what I mean!!

All the "depends" "time" and "make more than you spend" stuff is neat to read but in whole ........ worthless when you get down to it.

Things I can figure that are billable to the customer.

1. Design Work
2. Conversion/Scaling (Fixing their Drawings :) )
3. Setup Charge (Need some detail here)
4. Burn Rate.
5. Finishing - Primer, Paint and other treatments.

So:

1. Design Work - What are you charging to do 2d design? I figure $60 to $90 per hour would be the range here with 1 hour minimum. What are you charging?

2. Conversion/Scaling - Taking a DWG and making it work for your table (May be part of setup charges) dunno here. 40 to 60 per hour is a guess here. What are you charging?

3. Setup Charges - What are we looking at for setup? You have to take time to set the table to do it's job and it aint free... Do you work at a run labor? 30 to 50 per hour with a one hour minimum? Or is this a "cost of doing business"? What are you charging?

4. Burn rate - What are you charging and how. Are you charging IPM, Square Inches or area. May even be a combo of these. What are you charging?

5. After the job Primer, Paint and treatment (like blueing). - Are any of you doing this? What are you charging?

Obviously I at this point don't want to get into Fabwork talks. Like taking the parts you cut and weld them into things or building and end product.

Some have table setups for just that. To create a finished product (Dynatorch for example :) ) . They have a table to make tables. But even with that you have to figure what it costs to run the table.

So real info here and costs is what I am looking for feed back on.

Thanks in Advance for the help. This is not just a DT question BTW, anyone burning steel can help here if they will. .... I bet Jim Colt as well as the DT team are out here... :)

Thanks,

Mike

jimcolt
11-12-2008, 08:34 AM
Mike,

In regards to estimating and or quoting plasma cutting costs....here are a few suggestions:

- Every plasma has different operating costs....cut speeds and consumable life are big factors...but material handling and secondary operations (grinding dross, reworking small holes, etc) are by far the largest cost.
-A $2000 air plasma will can cut 1/2" steel with good quality......a $50,000 high definition class industrial plasma can cut 1/2" steel with good quality.The industrial plasma cut part will cut dramatically faster, with slightly squarer edges and virtually no dross.....and with very nice small holes and fine features.....and the consumables will last 5 to 10 times longer (as measured in feet of material cut). The industrial plasma will use oxygen to cut steel...producing a metalurgically superior cut edge...better weldability, better machineability and better formability...if needed.
-If you are doing small production runs....an air plasma is fine for the majority of applications....very large operations that run multiple shifts should look toward industrial grade plasma's...as they are more productive and have a dramatically lower cost per foot of cut!

That being said.....when I used to have enough time to actually operate my cutting machine and shop as a side business (Hypertherm keeps me pretty busy now!)...I used to keep a close watch on current steel prices....and then I would calculate the cost per square inch for every material I had in stock....and to this cost I would add my markup...generally at least doubling your purchase cost of steel makes sense due to material handling difficulties etc.

I then would develop another chart for each materoial type and thickness that was a cost per inch cut....based on my best guesses on how long my consumables would last when cutting each particular type of material. To this....you should figure an adequate markup as well. It is more expensive to cut 1/2" steel per inch than to cut 1/8"....so this is important.

When I quoted a job....my software would provide me with linear inches per part....so using the cutting cost per inch chart...I could figure a cutting price. For material cost...always calculate your useage based on rectangular area....in other words if you cut a 12" round part....your useage is probably 13" square....as it is unlikely that you will be able to use the scrap for anything of value.

So combine your material cost and your cutting cost.....and if you have done things correctly while cutting....you should have a finished part to sell to a customer that will get you into the $100 / hour shop rate area. Some days you can make $60/hour an some days $120. If it is art....then increase the price....if it is structural steel....then to be competitive you need to tighten your processes and keep your price low.

I'm sure there may be other posters on this site that actively plasma cut in there shops....and they may have good suggestions regarding costing.

jim colt

Mike Ray
11-14-2008, 07:16 AM
Jim,

I knew you were out there :) . Tell Hypertherm you deserve a raise... Hell I'll tell them.. Give me a number to call... :)

So would you have those charts available for us goobes out here. I undestand what you are saying and typically do 1.5 markup on my straight steel (I'll think about that) and just what to know if I am charging by the inch where to start dollar wise?

Now I know it will vary based on area and I will adjust for my area, but I would rather come in high and adjust than be locked in at a lower rate.

Is there a chart that shows expected run times for consumables. A guide that says what an average life in inches and pierces is?

If Charging by the inch how did you increment.

What is your lowest inch charge?

Like what did you charge for
22g
1/16
1/8
3/16
1/4


Etc.

I appreciate all the help you give us out here on these lists.

Mike

slammedxonair
12-02-2008, 10:28 PM
I'm pretty curious as to how others are pricing stuff out as well, I really started to think about it more the other day when I did a custom sign job for a customer. I'm used to making custom truck suspension parts which are more of a market value based pricing. Deffinatly more money in signs and art though.

Edwardo
12-03-2008, 11:08 PM
This thread got me thinking to since it first appeared, went in and read the forum general business and pricing here on the zone, theres nothing specific on pricing, but alot of good information on how to come up with pricing. I've checked around on web sites to see what other people charge, seen things that i cant beleive they charge that much for, and others i cant beleive how they can make it and sell it so cheap. Before i bought my cutter i read somewhere someone saying making something is the easy part, finding someone to buy it is the tough part! We,ve made a few things up while learning to run our machine, sold some stuff here and there, but nothing serious. I figure though if i can buy a 1/16 4x8 sheet hot rolled for say 110 bucks, my cost is $ 3.44 per sq ft. at the steel depot, now i have to pick it up, cut it up, clean it up, probly paint it, plus pay utilities, advertising, consumables for the torch, grinding pads etc... I could process one sheet per day by myself... i would have to sell that one square foot finished peice for 20 bucks to cover costs and earn a living. Originally i thought this price was kinda high until my wife and i went around visiting lawn and garden places, we saw a 6" butterfly welded onto a 3'x1/4" rod selling for 30 bucks plus tax, made in china, the dross wasnt even cleaned off, and it was painted entirerly in a flat mat lime green paint! Needless to say we will be taking some of our around as demo's for these places to see, and there are a ton of lawn and garden outlets in our city, selling wholesale, drop the price on a larger order, selling on consignment, i dont think so... people throw things around and they get damaged... if a store want our product they have to purchase it outright as it give them a little more insentive to sell and take care of it. Plus im sure they didnt buy the cheap chineese crap on consignment.... Anyways, for me pricing i want to keep it as simple as possible, by the sq ft, as for custom work, i havent a bloody clue yet.

Regards
EDD

edwardpic
03-11-2009, 07:54 AM
Hey everyone,
Question then comment:
Question: Has anyone cut 5052 Aluminum with their DT? I have the Powermax 1000 and have to cut some pieces for a client, 3/16 thick 5052. Any help would be great.
re: IPM, set point voltage, tip, Amp setting

Comment: I charge by the square foot usually based on the per sheet cost. Then I use cost X 2.4, then add a tip charge for each order, cad work is 92.50 per hour 1 hour min, and set up is a flat 35.00. I could be in the ballpark, or way off, but usually works out pretty good. Keep in mind I cut mult parts, single pieces or small 2 part orders the price structure may change slightly.
I havent been in the forum in a long time, great to see the original thread I posted about DT has lasted and many more are here to exchange ideas and tips.

Happy Cutting!!!