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widgitmaster
06-23-2006, 07:06 PM
This is my 2nd attempt at designing a tight & strong mini Router! The first one used unsupported round rails, and they were way too springy to do anything accurate! So I crunched up a drawing in CAD to incorporate a design which uses supported Thompson rails!

Here is the current design, and the few parts which I have finished so far!

widgitmaster
06-23-2006, 07:16 PM
For starters, I made the y-axis support plate, it was machined from solid and has two tracks with .1875 Radius machined in the centers to support the rails.

Each rail has five #6-32 SS SHCS holding the rails in position. The rails were reilled and counterbored using Carbide 4-flute ball end mills, and a flat bottom carbide endmill for the c-bore.

The 1st problem I had was the warpage in the rails when I drilled the holes, they curled up instantly! The problem was solved by drilling the c-bore first, as the larger end mill went through the case hardened skin of the rails easier. Then I drilled the small hole with the ball end mill. The rail was over heating as the ball endmill went through both case hardened skins!

After a little straightening on the surface plate with an indicator and v-blocks, the rails are now ready!

widgitmaster
06-23-2006, 07:29 PM
The next part is the y-axis slide block, it will have to be bored to accept two bronze plugs! This block was fun to build, it was interresting to see if I could bore two holes accurate enough to align with the two rails! After the holes were bored, I turned up some bronze plugs in my lathe, and made them .0005 larger than the bores. Then I placed the bloc in boiling water on the stove, while the plugs were in my freezer! After ten minutes, the plugs fell in the block with a slight press.

Then I put the block in the mill and bored the bronze as close to the rail diameter as possible without having them bind while sliding!

The next part of the puzzle was trying to figure out an easy way to add a delrin acme nut to the y-axis slide block! This was bugging me for days, and I had an idea but I kept rejecting it! The idea was to bore a large round intersecting hole through the block, plug it with a chunck of round delrin, then cross drill it and tap it 1/2-10 acme!

Eventually I accepted this idea, but at first all I could think of was the large bore hole in the block, what would I do if it didn't work!
Well, it did work, and the big bore filled with Delrin has lightened the y-axis slide block too!

widgitmaster
06-23-2006, 07:35 PM
Next I need to make the supports on the y-axis slide block to hold the z-axis rails! These are 1/4" diameter Thompson rails, and have the same case hardened surfaces!

The tracks were easily machined, and the .1250 Radius was added to center the z-axis rails.

The next thing is to drill and c-bore the small rails to fit five #2-56 SS SHCS!
The procedure was the same, I drilled the c-bores using a carbide endmill, and then drilled the holes using carbide 4-flute ball endmills 3/32" diam.

These rails did not distort as severely as the larger ones, and were quickly straightened!

pminmo
06-23-2006, 07:42 PM
wow, looks absolutely great. when you say mini how small? didn't see any dimensions on the drawing.

widgitmaster
06-23-2006, 07:45 PM
The next item is the z-axis slide block, it has three 1/8 t-slots to be used for mounting of the spindle! The procedure for making and installing the bronze bushings is the same, and the whole slide block was accomplished in 4-hours!

The z-axis slide is much smaller, so I decided to use a piece of 3/8-10 acme for the lead screw! The delrin nut will be similar, when I decide how its going to be done!

While I made these parts, I made enough for two complete units! These slide units are so precice, there is zero endplay, and zero backlash! They slide frreely enough for an 80 oz/in stepper to move them back and forth!

Eric

widgitmaster
06-23-2006, 07:49 PM
wow, looks absolutely great. when you say mini how small? didn't see any dimensions on the drawing.

Thanks Pminmo!

The y-axis moves 4.500" and the z-axis moves 2.000"
The x-axis will move around 6.000"

Eric

widgitmaster
06-23-2006, 08:41 PM
Next I made some y-axis side plates with the bearings pressed in for the leadscrew. Also has 4 holes for mounting the nema23 stepper!

widgitmaster
06-23-2006, 08:45 PM
The x-axis is still using unsupported round rails, because the 1/2 Dia. at 12" length is fairly ridgid!

The x-axis slide block has been completely redone, it now has four SUPER-8 ball bushings!

widgitmaster
06-23-2006, 08:54 PM
In order to make the x-axis slide block, I had to order some 7/8" internal spring rings, a special carbide .040 internal grooving tool, and 4- ball bushings for the 1/2" dia thompson shafts.

after I had squared up the block, I bored two 7/8 dia through holes for the ball bushings, then I used the fancy internal grooving tool in my boring head, and turned the spindle by hand! It was easier to cut a .025" deep groove by adjusting the boring head .005 after every revolution! The grooves were cut in a suprisingly short time!

Then I had to make spacers to go between the ball bushings, and everything went together really nicely!

Now I have a smooth sliding x-axis with zero endplay!

widgitmaster
06-23-2006, 08:56 PM
I used the same concept for the delrin nut, by simply boring a 2" diameter hole in the center of the slide block, and pressing a solid plug of Delrin in the hole! Then I drilled the cross hole and tapped it 1/2-10 acme!

The leadscrew was turned to the exact distance between bearings, so there is no need to preload, and zero endplay!

FPV_GTp
06-23-2006, 08:57 PM
very nice work , will defantly keep a eye on this thread

cheers

widgitmaster
06-23-2006, 09:01 PM
Thank you!

Tomorrow, I will make the bearing plates and motor mount plate and leadscrew for the z-axis!

Hope you all enjoyed this post, I sure did!
Eric

widgitmaster
07-04-2006, 06:28 PM
This little router is up for bids on eBay! :)

Mini-Router on eBay

andy_ck87028
07-04-2006, 06:34 PM
Eric

Smart smart marketing! :cool:

Andy

widgitmaster
08-01-2006, 10:33 PM
Due to popular demand, I have been working overtime building four of these little units! I have also documented all the parts in CAD and now have a complete set of detailed drawings! In a few days, these will be finished, and I can jump into the next project!

With all the emails I have been receiving with questions about larger units, I decided to design a machine with exactly 12" travel in X and Y axis using the same principals and some of the parts from the Mini Router! With one exception, the X-Axis will have a solid plate supporting Tomson Linear rails and a gantry moving on ball bushings.

The question I have would be the Z-Axis travel? What is a good distance of Z with an X/Y of 12" I would like to use a pair of 6" supported rails, and that would give me around 5" or less travel!

Any suggestions?

HayTay
08-01-2006, 10:51 PM
The question I have would be the Z-Axis travel? What is a good distance of Z with an X/Y of 12" I would like to use a pair of 6" supported rails, and that would give me around 5" or less travel!
I'd go with a tight and relatively short amount of travel on your Z-axis. I'm thinking that most people who purchase one of your sturdy metal units will be using them to route/mill PCB's, do engraving in plastic, copper, brass, and aluminum, and maybe wood routing up to around 1 1/2" thick. With that in mind I'd shoot for around 3" (no more than 4") of travel in the Z-axis. In other words, shoot for a little better accuracy and repeatability rather than maximizing the chunk of material you can mount under the gantry.


Just my twin Lincolns,

HayTay

dertsap
08-02-2006, 01:42 AM
nice assembly
youll have to set up one of those little babies to carve your logo if you keep the road your on

widgitmaster
08-02-2006, 07:38 PM
I'd go with a tight and relatively short amount of travel on your Z-axis. I'm thinking that most people who purchase one of your sturdy metal units will be using them to route/mill PCB's, do engraving in plastic, copper, brass, and aluminum, and maybe wood routing up to around 1 1/2" thick. With that in mind I'd shoot for around 3" (no more than 4") of travel in the Z-axis. In other words, shoot for a little better accuracy and repeatability rather than maximizing the chunk of material you can mount under the gantry.


Just my twin Lincolns,

HayTay


Thanks HayTay!
I like your logic, and will go with the 4" travel!

Now if I could only afford a Tormac CNC Mill!
Eric

dertsap
08-03-2006, 12:26 AM
Now if I could only afford a Tormac CNC Mill!
Eric

keep on building those and i think you will be able to shortly ,
its always nice to see the work of a true tool maker

widgitmaster
08-03-2006, 12:33 AM
Thanks for the encouragement dertsap! :)

drodda
08-03-2006, 02:29 AM
What happened to my 24" x 24" request?

I think 3" to 4" Z would be plenty.

Keep them coming they look amazing.

Dave R

FPV_GTp
08-03-2006, 03:26 AM
hi

widgitmaster seems you have a assembly line going , when can i place a order and how much and ship to Australia postcode 3021 Melbourne Victoria Australia

what steppers/servos motors , drivers amd software are you going to use on the setup ??

I'm serious now

cheers

widgitmaster
08-04-2006, 11:09 PM
Check out my eBay listings, I have made lots of CNC parts and components!
My Listings (http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZeaaenterprisesQQhtZ-1)

Eric

dwil
08-12-2006, 09:36 PM
Do you do a kit... and how much?

widgitmaster
08-12-2006, 11:15 PM
Not much need to make it a kit, as it only takes me 15 minutes to screw these together! Also, I assemble them on a granite surface plate to make sure they are square! At least until the buyer dismantles it out of curiosity! I do not deal with the electronics or software, as that is too expensive for me and beyond my field of expertice!

The mini routers have been selling on eBay for around 6-bills, and I have three more almost ready! I have also been working on a new unit with a full 12"x12"x4" of travel! The design is almost finished!

WidgitMaster's Web Site (http://widgitmaster.com/)

austin.mn
08-13-2006, 01:08 AM
i can't wait to see it. i am trying to convince my wife that another machine is necessary... could take a while, but i feel confident i will get her to agree.

nice looking machines. what kind of accuracy are these getting?

mwalach
08-26-2006, 08:52 PM
Great machines Widgitmaster! (I emailed you earlier today from ebay, and took your advice and found this thread). You put a lot of thought and time into your designs. Very quality work. Can't wait to see your 12 x 12 machine. Exactly what I have been looking for. As far as the z axis, I agree 3-5 inches is plenty. Speaking for myself, I would be cutting either 3/4" wood or plastic, maybe try to mill some aluminium. And I would also make PCBs. I have a grizzly 1 HP router that I was planning to use on a prototype that I made, but maybe it will fir your new machine. It is only 3" in diamter at its widest point and has a variable control. Has a 1/4" collet and I purchased a 1/8" adapter from drill but city. (I bet you could make adapters and sell those. I had to pay $15 for an adapter. I had trouble finding anyone else that sold them.)

Anyway, let us know when the new machine is ready. I am selling off all my old stepper motors, power supplies etc to save up for it. (anyone interested in parts from my last prototype just send me a message bigbearcnc@yahoo.com) Check out the prototype here www.bigbearcnc.com

My real interests is developing cnc software. I have a program I plan to release later this year, start of next year. I just want a good solid machine to play with.

widgitmaster
08-26-2006, 10:06 PM
Welcome to the Zone mwalach

You will find everything you need and everything you didn't know you need here!

This is the best place for people like us! :banana:

Eric
WidgitMaster

Deviant
08-26-2006, 11:31 PM
Have you thought anything about larger machines than the 12x12. Do you think the aluminum would be strong enough for that? I was thinking about building one of these very similar to yours. But I wanted to make a fixed bridge and move the table.

Ideally, I'd want to have about 12x 24y 12z. Or something close to that. I'd be contour milling aluminum plate/bars no thicker than 2".

Maybe I'm dreaming.

But kodos on the little router. I've seen it on ebay a few times. Always thought it was neat.

widgitmaster
08-27-2006, 10:24 AM
Here is a sneak-preview of the 12x12 prototype (front view)

The X-axis slide block is 15.5"x3.0"x1.5 solid 6061 aluminum, precision bored to accept 4x 1/2"Thomson Ball Bushings. The base palte is 16.5"x15"x.5" MIC-6 tooling plate with 4x 5/16 C-bored holes in the outer corners to fasten it to a stable base or stand! This router will have a work area of 12x12x3.5 The Y-axis has not been designed in full, as I plan to add ball bushings instead of hard bronze bushings! The z-axis should remain the same as the Mini-Router, but with an extended travel of 3.5"

Eric

mwalach
08-27-2006, 08:09 PM
looks great! Can't wait to see it built! Any idea when you will start machining it?

widgitmaster
08-27-2006, 10:12 PM
Actually I worked on it all weekend, I have 4 of 28 pcs half finished, and several on the way! Its time consuming when you have to stop and make long soft vise jaws!

They are half finished because I group similar operations and do a little at a time, as material arrives! (multitasking ;) ) Today I workd on the lathe for 4hr, and on the mill 4hr And I'm supposed to be retired! HA!

Eric

mwalach
08-28-2006, 05:47 PM
very nice. I will keep a close eye on your progress.

mwalach
09-02-2006, 03:41 PM
Any new pics of the new machine? Hows the progress going?

widgitmaster
09-02-2006, 11:35 PM
I will post more pics as soon as I can, right now I'm very busy making more parts!

widgitmaster
09-04-2006, 12:09 AM
Its been a busy few days!
I have made the base plate, a 1/2" thick piece of MIC-6 aluminum.
I milled two tracks 5" from centerline, 3/8 wide and 1/8 deep for the linear support rails!
Then I made two slender rails to fit in the track, 3/8 thick x 5/8 high x 15" long. with holes at 4" spacing from center. The rails have a .250 Radius the full length of the .375 edge, this was done with a nice new 1/2" ball end mill!
Then I took two Thomson 1/2" linear round rails, cut them to 15" length, took a 5/32 4flute carbide endmill, and c-bored .075 deep 4x at 4" spacing from center. then drilled and tapped the soft core for 6-32 UNC, and got .245 of good thread!

Then i drilled the base plate to match the hole spacing, and assembled the base of the new router! Next I made the X-Axis slide block, it has two precision bores for the Linear Ball-Bushings, that had to be .8742 +-.0002
Plus everything had to be perfectly flat, parallel, and square! The large bore will be for a disk of delrin, which will be drilled and tapped for the 1/2-10 Acme lead screw. The ends of the slide block are stepped to support the gusset and gantry side plates. I have not finished designing that section yet!

Last I made the T-Slot plate, it has 7 T-slots for 1/4-20 T-Nuts. The edge holes will be for the Front and rear end plates which will hold the leadscrew bearings! They are next!


This router base is only 3/8" higher than the average NEMA-23 stepper motor, so everything is low profile and close to the linear slides!\


Eric

Jason Marsha
09-04-2006, 04:27 AM
I think I am going to be tempted to get one of these. Keep posting the pics, your work is fantastic.

Jason

project5k
09-04-2006, 04:41 PM
what a great little machine, but i have to say darn you! your making it really hard for me to stick with my current project and not get one of these... oh the parts and pieces i could make on this to make my big unit... oh the temptation is terrable!
Project5k

mwalach
09-04-2006, 05:47 PM
looks like you have us lining up to buy these things! Good for you I guess. I hope your planning to make multiple. Can't wait to see the finished product.

One thought though. If the delrin nut wears out, any thought on how it could be replaced, or if an anti-backlash nut could be added later on if backlash becomes a problem? Just a thought. Looks pretty solid.

Only thing I would have to modify is to drill mounting holes for limit switches. How big of a router do you think it will be able to hold? I'd like to use the grizzly 1HP if possible.

widgitmaster
09-04-2006, 07:22 PM
looks like you have us lining up to buy these things! Good for you I guess. I hope your planning to make multiple. Can't wait to see the finished product.

One thought though. If the delrin nut wears out, any thought on how it could be replaced, or if an anti-backlash nut could be added later on if backlash becomes a problem? Just a thought. Looks pretty solid.

Only thing I would have to modify is to drill mounting holes for limit switches. How big of a router do you think it will be able to hold? I'd like to use the grizzly 1HP if possible.

What is the weight of that little router?
What is the distance from the center of the spindle to the outer most area of the router body?
What is the length of the router?

I'm curious, because I'm going to try to design a new Y & Z axis to handle a heaver spindle motor!
Origonally, I was going to use the same setup as the mini-router, but the Bronze slide bushings would never hold up to the forces of a 1/2 or 3/8 diameter cutter! Or the weight of a motor bigger than a dremel!

Eric

mwalach
09-04-2006, 08:26 PM
I will measure up the router when I get to work tommorow. I have it sitting in my classroom.

I can tell you roughly it is 3" x 2" in diameter. It probobly weights about 5lbs. And it is about 12" tall. I like it because it has a 1/4" collet, 1hp of power and the biggie...a speed control! Not many routers have this for this price. I think I paid $80 on www.grizzly.com I also purchased a 1/8 collet adapter from drill bit city so I can use my PCB making bits and all of the rotozip and dremel bits that are made for a 1/8" collet. That really opens a lot of doors. The router isn't all that heaver for all its power. It will be a big selling point for your machine if it can hold a stronger router than a dremel.

Check out the machine by www.cncdudez.com They run their machine with a Kress 900 watt (1.2 HP roughly---746watts=1hp). Same size table as you are making basically. Seems to work ok for them.

I'll give you more specs on the grizzly router tommorow morning.

project5k
09-05-2006, 04:06 PM
just as a side note on the speed control, harbor freight sells a "router speed control" for around $20, i picked up a couple of them when they were on sale for like $10 each... they work fairlywell, but i havent tried one under any kind of real load to see how well it holds a speed... i use mine to control a small 110 fan....

mwalach
09-05-2006, 07:58 PM
What is the weight of that little router?
What is the distance from the center of the spindle to the outer most area of the router body?
What is the length of the router?

I'm curious, because I'm going to try to design a new Y & Z axis to handle a heaver spindle motor!
Origonally, I was going to use the same setup as the mini-router, but the Bronze slide bushings would never hold up to the forces of a 1/2 or 3/8 diameter cutter! Or the weight of a motor bigger than a dremel!

Eric


Ok, I have the router here, and these are the specs,

weight=4 lbs
length is about 11 inches
2-7/8" x 2-5/8" body width depth1-5/8" (2-5/8" to outside of switch) from spindle center to outside of router body

Only downside of the royter is the switch is a momentary switch, so you would need to make something to hold it on, but not a big deal. The switch is easy to grap a hold of.

Hope this helps,

mw

mwalach
09-05-2006, 08:03 PM
here are some pics that might help,

mw

widgitmaster
09-05-2006, 10:05 PM
Thanks!

I have been giving this much thought, I was up till 2 AM working on myCAD files, trying to come up with a seriously strong design!

On my very first router, I used unsupported round rails for all three axis, the x was 12x18 andit flexed and chattered so bad that I have not used it again! It just sits in my office as a reminder of an expensive failure!

So this time I researched much deeper, and realized that fully supported hardened and ground round rails is the way to go! Then I noticed that the smallest open ball bushings for supported rails were 1/2" ID

So I designed the entire X-Y-Z axis's with 1/2" diameter supported rails and ball bushings!
The next criteria that I wanted to incorporate was to keep the spindle motor as close to the slides as possible! This was not too difficult, but because the OD of the ball bushings is .875" there is a limit to how close I can make them!
Also, the length of the ball bushings set the limit to the smallest size I could make for the width of the y-and z-axis slide blocks!

The bottom line was a new X-Axis slide block, as the existing one is too narrow for the added weight, and an entire redesign of the Y-Z axis slide frame!
My origonal idea was to use the same slide train as the mini router, which would work perfectly for a light duty Dremel spindle motor! It had a travel of 12" of X and 12" of Y! The new design has reduced it to approximately 10x10.
But I have increased the opening under the gantry to a full 6"

This re-design will use 4-ball bushings for each axis, totaling in 12 @ $24.59 plus S&H

This new router design should move a 1/4" cutter with little difficulty!
The only other situation to consider is the stepper motor frame size, will a 270 oz/in NEMA-23 be strong enough to move a 1/4" cutter, or should I redesign everything to take a NEMS 34?

I just hope I can sell these, as the up-front cost is rising! Not to mention the actual non-CNC shop time to make one!


Eric

spalm
09-05-2006, 10:24 PM
Hey Eric,

The 1/2" supported rails with 4-ball bushings sound like a really good compromise of strength and cost. The NEMA-23 frame size seems plenty to me for this small of a machine. But 10x10x6 seems a little out of kilter. I guess the extra Z could be used for 3D milling of tall jewelry boxes or something, but why so high? (I guess ‘why not’?)

You do such fine work; it will be fun to watch this come together. I would consider purchasing such a machine to do smaller stuff and PCBs. Besides, it is just so gall dang cute!

Steve

widgitmaster
09-05-2006, 10:32 PM
Hey Eric,

The 1/2" supported rails with 4-ball bushings sound like a really good compromise of strength and cost. The NEMA-23 frame size seems plenty to me for this small of a machine. But 10x10x6 seems a little out of kilter. I guess the extra Z could be used for 3D milling of tall jewelry boxes or something, but why so high? (I guess ‘why not’?)

You do such fine work; it will be fun to watch this come together. I would consider purchasing such a machine to do smaller stuff and PCBs. Besides, it is just so gall dang cute!

Steve


Thanks Steve!
Actually the Z-travel is less than 4", I just gave the gantry som extra height for a vise!

I think this will brobably be re-designed to 12x12x4 before I'm done!
Providing I can sell more of the Mini's to get some cash to work with!

This is an interresting project!
Eric

Madclicker
09-05-2006, 10:42 PM
just as a side note on the speed control, harbor freight sells a "router speed control" for around $20, i picked up a couple of them when they were on sale for like $10 each... they work fairlywell, but i havent tried one under any kind of real load to see how well it holds a speed... i use mine to control a small 110 fan....

That thing they sell is not a speed control. It's a power limiter. By limiting the power it slows a motor down....like a light dimmer. Use it to control your fan, but not your machines.

mwalach
09-06-2006, 03:28 PM
I think nema 23 would be fine. I used the xylotex motor and driver combo package on my last prototype (saving it to hopefully use on your machine :) ). It moved the machine fine I think. My set up was no where near as smooth running as your's looks like it will be. I think the mechanical advantage you get with the screw drive makes a big difference.

Sounds like a nice find on the bearings. Do you think dust will be a problem with the ball bearings?

widgitmaster
09-07-2006, 09:18 PM
Do you think dust will be a problem with the ball bearings?

I'm way ahead of you Walach!:idea:
I have been experimenting with several ideas, and I think I have choosen a simple compact method! I have a large sheet of white neoprene rubber that is 1/16" thick, and I plan to mill a 1/8" deep pocket around the end opening of the Ball Bushing bore, make a little piece of rubber to fit in the pocket, an cover it with a 1/16" thick aluminum plate. Then use 4x 4-40 flat head allen screws to secure it!

Then I will mill a 1/16" wide by 3/16" deep groove from one side of the slide block to the other, on both sides of the liner rail. This will hold a small strip of rubber to keep the debris out of the bearings from the sides as well as from the ends! The trick will be in cutting the rubber into perfect sized strips, I'll probably have to freeze it first!

Then I'll glue the 4-rubber pieces together, so they make a perfect seal!

What's the best glue to bond neoprene rubber?

- - - - - -- - - -

I have redesigned the entire unit to get as much travel as possible with the plates I have already made, it will be X-10, Y-12, Z-4
That should be much better!

I have ordered all the materials, bearings, and shafts, now its just a matter of time! I have also added adjustable feet with rubber pads, to level the machine prior to running!


Eric

Jason Marsha
09-07-2006, 09:26 PM
Keep up the good work Eric, with all of your nifty ideas your machine will be a sure winner.

Jason

widgitmaster
09-07-2006, 10:00 PM
Keep up the good work Eric, with all of your nifty ideas your machine will be a sure winner.

Jason

Thanks again Jason!
Eric

widgitmaster
09-10-2006, 06:53 PM
This has been a productive weekend!
I finished the T-slot plate, the base plate, the end plates, the lead screw, and the linear rail supports!

There is exactly .04" clearance around the slide block, so ehen I move it I can feel the air rush out!

The material for the replacement slide block is on order, as I decided to make it an inch wider for stability! The one I have in there now will be used in a different unit! I have also ordered the material for the Y & Z axis parts, as well as the 1/16 t-slot cutter for the seals on the linear slide blocks.

Would someone like to clean my shop! I can't see the floor!(chair)

Eric

pminmo
09-10-2006, 07:02 PM
Wow, what a part! Really nice work. Nope, better rephrase, outstanding..

mwalach
09-10-2006, 07:07 PM
cant't wait to place my order!

spent today cleaning out my shop. built a new work bench. still need more room!

nice work eric!

widgitmaster
09-10-2006, 08:21 PM
Thanks Guys!

Eric

wcarrothers
09-11-2006, 10:34 AM
Any idea on the price point for the 12x12x4 version?

I'm currently doing a 4'x8' which as it turns out seems like it's going to be very heavy (to heavy to move real fast for smaller carvings) which is why I'd of course need yet another machine..hehe



b.

widgitmaster
09-12-2006, 06:13 PM
Ask me a question I can answer, I have only made 25% of the parts, and 10% of the material for the remaining parts has been ordered!

This unit is extreemly tight, very heavy, and shoud be a breeze to use!
But it is a prototype, and they take time! I have made many changes to my design, and will be doing so till it's finished!
As a result of all the changes, the material I had ordered is too small, and had to be re-orderd! The actual travel is not going to be a perfect 12x12x4, but in the next unit I plan to build a much bigger one!

Sales of the mini routers has stopped, so funds are sitting in a row of usless machines on my living room floor! I have already dropped the selling price by $150, and still no sales! I could make a lamp out of them!

widgitmaster
09-12-2006, 08:04 PM
I have a ridgid design for the y-axis gantry side plates. The extra webing milled in the aluminum will ensure a strong support for all the Y&Z axis components, as well as a heavy router motor!

mwalach
09-16-2006, 07:38 AM
Hey widgitmaster, I just found your website. You should advertise it a little better. I only just thought to try typing http://www.widgitmaster.com/ to see if you had one. Nice pics of your stuff.

mw

mwalach
09-22-2006, 08:59 PM
I purchased one of Erics mini-mills. It looks great! I just hooked up my motors and control from www.xylotex.com and Mach 2 software. This little machine is FAST! I may actually slow it down a bit in the software. I'll see how well the dremel cuts. Service from widgit master is great! One small part damaged by the shipper was quickly taken care of. Very quality looking product.

I definitly need a tool mount. I tried making my own, but I lack the metal tools to make a decent one. I attached a pic of the one I tried to make. Looks good, but there is way too much play, and it only has one mounting hole. It came like this, and there was no way really to add another. I didn't think it would work, but I wanted to try and mill something. The mount in the pic is a conduit clamp from home depot. The dremel is a model 300, also from home depot.

The machine is small, but I think it will do a lot. I plan to make circuit boards, airplane parts, gears, signs, name plates, cut out letters, maybe try some inlay. I am developing my own cnc software to meet my needs, so I will use this little machine as a test bed. I am waiting to see how the new larger mill comes out. I would like to buy one for my classroom. I teach high school technology. A 12" x 12" cnc would be great. I could have my kids design parts in CAD (we use auto-desk inventor) then have them cnc them out and assemble them. We could probably even sell some of what we make as a fund raiser for the lab.

Oh the possibilities!!

mwalach
09-22-2006, 09:02 PM
Here is the pic of my new mini-mill.

widgitmaster
09-23-2006, 08:59 AM
Thanks for the feedback Mike!
I have ordered a model 390 Dremel, and will buy a model 300 at HomeDepot this weekend. That way I can design a mounting bracket & clamp assemble to hold them to my Mini Routers! I think a dual clamp system will be stronger, one clamp by the nose of the Dremel, and another at the body!

I have a hugh chunk of Acrylic plastic, so I'll make one bracket from aluminum and one from acrylic, to see if there is a weight problem on the z-axis!

I have been building five more Mini-Routers, and that has kept me busy!, so this weekend I will try to make the y-axis gantry and slide assembly for the new 12x12 router!

wcarrothers
09-23-2006, 11:18 AM
Yes.. SPEED!! is something I will be looking for on a smaller if I get one of the 12x12's in the future.. I'm still concerned with the speeds I will be able to drive my 4x8 design given it's weight even with the monster servo motors (huge compaired to my moog's on the mill conversion anyway)

Maybe it will not be that bad. But for small jobs and super detail carvings the 12x12 will probably be added to my shop at some point..

Also got to figure some $$ to buy one of those brushess spindles on ebay..

Keep the 12x12 alive.. I'll try to keep some extra cake around to get one once they are done. Mymetal working skills are no where near your ability thus I'd be far better off getting one of yours.. Should not have to spend to much more to get the 4x8 up and going..

b.

widgitmaster
09-25-2006, 08:23 PM
Here is the pic of my new mini-mill.

I did not like the steel pipe clamp holding the Dremel tool, so I ordered the same model Dremel mwalach is using, and designed a nice solid aluminum clamp for it!

I left a .062 x .2 wide rib on the back of the clamp, it will align the Dremel to a perfect 90° to the Router's table top.

Because I had sold all the mini routers I had, I needed to make the z-axis slide block with the little t-slots, so I would be able to see how it would work!

It took 5 hours to make that little part!

Eric

project5k
09-25-2006, 08:29 PM
thats some pretty fancy machining!!! wish i had some $$ to throw down to order one of your machines, the more i see, the more im overwhelmingly impressed with the thought, effort and engineering that you put into your units...

mwalach
09-25-2006, 08:33 PM
I'm glad to see that you made a clamp. I have been having a tough time with my home made clamps.

Here are the latest pics. The dremel is walking around a lot still, and my cuts look like junk. (I used a "V" cutter not the spiral cutter in the pic). Hopefully the new clamp will solve this problem. The other issue is that with the clamp set-up I had, I lost a lot of Z travel.

Any idea how much Z travel I would have with the new mount?

widgitmaster
09-25-2006, 08:42 PM
mwalach,
I would estimate the same you had with the PipeClamp!
It's approximately 2.5" from the bottom of the clamp to the nose of the Dremel tool

mwalach
09-25-2006, 08:56 PM
Is this clamp ready to go up for sale? Price?

I see the bar that slides into the cnc mount, but how does it attach? does it bolt on?

widgitmaster
09-25-2006, 09:03 PM
Be patient mwalach, I have not drilled the holes yet, my bellie was growling so I stopped to feed it! I'll figure out a price when all is done. And you'll be getting the get the 1st one!

I have been building 5 more units, and still have not had time to work on the new 12x12 router! Man I sure could use a nice CNC VMC in my garage shop!

Eric

ccsparky
09-25-2006, 09:45 PM
Hello,

This is my first post and I find my self returning to your topic often. I really like your router design and am very impressed with the craftsmanship!

Do you have a location with purchasing information for the Mini CNC Router?

Thank you!

William

widgitmaster
09-25-2006, 10:02 PM
Hello,

This is my first post and I find my self returning to your topic often. I really like your router design and am very impressed with the craftsmanship!

Do you have a location with purchasing information for the Mini CNC Router?

Thank you!

William

Thank you!

Actually I have www.widgitmaster.com and had it set up for PayPal BUT....
I am a one man machine shop, it takes hours to make every part, and the Mini Router is 30 parts!

If I were to open the web site to the world, I would be inundated with questions, and possibly sales of items I haven't made yet!

So I make a few at a time and post them on eBay! I plan on getting a CNC mill in the future, to speed up my productions! But the cheapest is $12,000
An I would still have to learn how to program it!
I'm just an old school retired Tool Maker!

I sold my last one through eBay to someone in Lithuania!

Thanks for asking!
Eric

mwalach
09-25-2006, 10:02 PM
Try his website www.widgitmaster.com.

widgitmaster
09-25-2006, 10:09 PM
All I can say is that I have 3 of 5 units nearly complete, if you want one send payment of $400 via PayPal to WidgitMaster@widgitmaster.com and I will ship it when completed. That includes shipping world wide via USPS Ground. (4-6 weeks delivery)

Thanks for your interests in my work!

Eric
WidgitMaster

wcarrothers
09-25-2006, 10:20 PM
I'm still down for the 12x12.

Although mouth is watering at the thought of one of your mini's for 400 now.. Don't even know how you could do that and make anything with materials what they cost.

b.

mwalach
09-26-2006, 05:42 AM
WOW! $400 is a deal! I should have waited!

ccsparky
09-26-2006, 08:28 AM
Ok guys, are you on the payroll? (group) <-- The sales team meeting :)

Based on what I can tell by the workmanship from the pictures and the cost of materials this machine is worth every penny of the $400!
I kind of like the $150 price on page 4!

With my daughter getting married about two weeks ago (my new son-in-law is in the Army and she leaves for Germany in December) and I ordered Joe's CNC Router last week and have been purchasing the software and hardware needed for it, I'm told my allowance is a little thin right now.

However, will you be continuing to make these and what's the chances of one being available in a few weeks?

Thanks!
William

JIMMY
09-26-2006, 08:49 AM
I am empressed

jcdillin
09-26-2006, 09:28 AM
:eek: dang I feel like selling all my parts on ebay now and just buying one of these

project5k
09-26-2006, 01:39 PM
trust me, if it were big enough to do what i need to do i woulda already sold all my parts to get one... but alas it hasnt grown enough yet... altho i could sure use one for making pcb's and other stuff'ns

Wun Fungi
09-26-2006, 02:41 PM
My first post here after lurking for a while. I just stumbled on to this thread and I have to say...

THIS THREAD IS KILLING ME! ;)

I'm drooling all over my keyboard and my hands are shaking so badly I can't get my wallet out. :p

Eric, you truly are The Widgitmaster! That's not a router. It's a work of art. And as someone pointed out earlier, a well kept secret.



Would someone like to clean my shop! I can't see the floor!

Eric

Can I keep anything I can sweep out? :D

(HA! I forgot why I wanted to finally post. :rolleyes:)
If I read correctly, you've got 5 Minis in work. How many have already been claimed? I want one so bad I can taste it, but Wifey says, "Hold out for the 12x12."

Steve (in The City That Never Was)

project5k
09-26-2006, 03:58 PM
well now if you cant get your wallet out then you truely have a problem, and i dont think your gonna be able to push a mill out with a broom, no matter how determined you are !!! heheheh

widgitmaster
09-26-2006, 04:46 PM
Well, it took a little time, but I did it!

I made the T-Nuts to go in the mounting plate on the Mini-Router, and drilled holes in the adapter clamp for the Dremel tool.

Two of the holes were inside the bore of the clamp, and I needed to make a sneaky drill to counterbore the holes so the head of the cap screw was below the bore surface!

I took an raunchy old HSS 1/4" jobbers drill, and spun the tip down on my surface grinder using a spin jig and a 1/4" 5C collet.

Then I took the same drill and ground the mid shank diameter to 1/8" so it would fit through the slot on top of the clamp!

Then I positioned it in the vise on my mill and used a regular drill chuck and put a nice counterbore inside the clamp!

I needed to use my ball-end hex screw drivers to get the little screws in on an angle to assemble this unit!


There is obviously a small oversight as to the size of the mounting plate on my Mini-Routers, it is about a 1/2" too narrow! I will be modifing my prints and include the design change in my next batch of Mini-Routers!

The whole clamp assembly is fastened to the Mini-Router with 6x 6-32 SHCS, and has two full width T-Nuts with extra tapped holes. The T-nuts were made out of 303-SS

project5k
09-26-2006, 05:40 PM
hehehe that bit modification looks like something i would try... but i woulda failed at it im sure... ive been known to cut flat wrenches off and grind the ends down thin to fit in some tight places... it sure is fun to take it back to sears and say, it wouldnt fit, so i made it fit... they never ask they just hand me a new one and say good day!

candle
09-26-2006, 06:59 PM
widgitmaster: you are able to do all of this with lathe, surface grinder and manual mill? any tutorials? :D summer courses perhaps?
i really do admire your work
most people relay on cad/cam software and cnc machinery to get the job done
seeing someone who is able to do it by the old ways is inspiring
sure - cnc speed up the process, but kills that magic involved

vcooney
09-26-2006, 09:06 PM
Hey Widgitmaster, Nice job on the home made counterbore. Just to let you know they make reversecounterbors which would of work nice and a little easier for you, but not as fun as making your own.
On your router...do you use ball or slide linear bearings and where do you get them? I bought your acme screws from your ebay site, and I would like to say "Very Nice".

Vince

widgitmaster
09-26-2006, 09:48 PM
On your router...do you use ball or slide linear bearings and where do you get them?

Thanks,

The X-Axis uses Thomson 1/2" round linear shafting with Super8 ball bushings.
The Y-Axis uses Thomson 3/8" round linear shafting with custom fitted hard bronze bushings.
The Z-Axis uses Thomson 1/4" round linear shafting with custom fitted hard bronze bushings.

I tried to make things strong, light, precision & as compact as possible for increased strength.

Eric

widgitmaster
09-26-2006, 10:45 PM
Current status of the 3 mini's & the 12x12

I figured if I move them to the Living Room, I'll get them done quicker!
Or keep tripping over them!:rolleyes:

jasoncelia
09-27-2006, 07:18 AM
If I give you may email address, could you email me once you have finished a mini – I want one. I think a have some playing around money left (an agreement between my wife and I) and after spending a lot of time on this site, I think CNC would be an excellent next project and your Mini-mill is a good way to learn/start.

Jason

wcarrothers
09-27-2006, 01:57 PM
trip over the one farthest to the left...

Got dibs on the first 12x12.hehe..

b.

mwalach
09-27-2006, 03:03 PM
does this mean the dremel tool mount is finished? I guess I'll have to break out the ball end hex keys to get that mounted, but that shouldn't be a big deal. Could always replace with a hex head bolt I guess. easier to get a wrench in there than an allen wrench.

cdfracing
09-27-2006, 04:34 PM
Hi WidgitMaster,

Im new here today!

Just looking around for a new cnc router and noticed your work.

It looks really good, can i ask if you have any units made and for sale?

Also what software would you use? and what motors?


Please contact me on info@cdfracing.co.uk

Cheers chris
www.cdfracing.co.uk

mwalach
09-27-2006, 05:32 PM
I have one of his routers. I use the xylotex controller and motor combo from www.xylotex.com and I use Mach 2 software from www.artofcnc.com.

widgitmaster
09-27-2006, 06:06 PM
does this mean the dremel tool mount is finished? I guess I'll have to break out the ball end hex keys to get that mounted, but that shouldn't be a big deal. Could always replace with a hex head bolt I guess. easier to get a wrench in there than an allen wrench.

Finished?

Heck, its in the mail already Mike!

One aluminum clamp, nine stainless steel allen screws, two stainless t-slot nuts!

Custom made for the Dremel model 300!
(The Dremel 390 needs a smaller diameter clamp)
Eric

mwalach
09-27-2006, 07:34 PM
WOW!! That is awsome!! Your service is definitly top notch! I am glad I went with your product!
:cheers:

Looking forward to making some parts with this machine. I am having my pre-engineering students design some stuff that I will attemt to cut out on the cnc. I am working on a grant proposal to buy a bigger cnc for my classroom, so this will be a good test. I figure if I make some parts on my own machine, I can better show what a cnc is capable of. I find that most people don't really get what it can do. They think of it as an engraver, but can't visualize the possibilities.

Anyway, Thanks again for the part, I really appreciate it. By the looks of this thread you wont have any trouble selling the 5 new mini-mills. Or the new 12" mill.

mw

project5k
09-28-2006, 12:14 AM
hmm pre engineering students??? you might wanna look into the DIY show tools and teniques... i just saw an epesode tonight of a shop bot cnc router at work.... while i dont necessarly agree with everything that david thiel sais on that show, i will say that it was a nice 10 min or so demo on cnc routers...

widgitmaster
09-28-2006, 01:40 PM
A little more progress!
I got all the close tollerance bores done today!

Each block has three bores, one is clearance for the leadscrew, the other two are for the press-fit bronze bushings.
I keep the center spacing within .0003, and the press fit diameters +0 -.0005

vcooney
09-28-2006, 02:58 PM
Hey Widgetmaster
Do you by chance sell your home made fly cutter?

wcarrothers
09-28-2006, 03:04 PM
we talking about bores the 12x12? guessing your talking more mini's or dremal mounts..hehe

b.

cdfracing
09-28-2006, 03:55 PM
Cheers mwalach ,

I have just noticed your web address> i brought some instructions off you yesterday!

I have just sold this little baby on ebay, i brought it to engrave my companys name on the pulleys i make but the limits are too small- that is why iam on the lookout for something like what eric makes,
They are just hard to find over here in the Uk or they are too expensive.. also alot off people in the states dont ship to the uk ..

Do you know iof anyone that will post to the Uk?

Chris














WOW!! That is awsome!! Your service is definitly top notch! I am glad I went with your product!
:cheers:

Looking forward to making some parts with this machine. I am having my pre-engineering students design some stuff that I will attemt to cut out on the cnc. I am working on a grant proposal to buy a bigger cnc for my classroom, so this will be a good test. I figure if I make some parts on my own machine, I can better show what a cnc is capable of. I find that most people don't really get what it can do. They think of it as an engraver, but can't visualize the possibilities.

Anyway, Thanks again for the part, I really appreciate it. By the looks of this thread you wont have any trouble selling the 5 new mini-mills. Or the new 12" mill.

mw

widgitmaster
09-28-2006, 07:36 PM
More progress!
I have drilled and tapped all of the holes in the Y-Axis slide blocks!
It's my 1st time using my Tapmatic tapping head, I just got it from eBay!
I put the 2-56 threads in the parts in no time at all! Excellent!

Oh yea, I had to use a needle tip on my air gun to blow the water coolant out of the holes prior to tapping, or the taps tend to get jammed and snap!

An I don't like to snap taps!

mwalach
09-28-2006, 07:53 PM
Thanks cdfracing for buying some plans. Let me know how you make out.

project5k
09-28-2006, 10:06 PM
since im kinda new to all of this, and ive been tapping my holes the hard way for years.. could you tell me a little more about this majic toy the tapmatic? im guessing that you chuck it up in the mill, or maby a drill press???? and then chuck a tap in it, then the motor spins this rig and it taps the holes, but my question is how does it work, does it reverse rotation on its own? or how does it know when to stop spinning, also how does one feed the tap into the work with something like this? does it pull its self in, or do you have to feed it?

widgitmaster
09-29-2006, 12:35 AM
Actually the Tapmatic tapping head I have is an excellent tool for tapping 0-80 to 1/4-20 threads!
It has a chuck which holds the tap securely, and prevents slippage.
It has an adjustable clutch which can be set to the slight force required by a 0-80 tap, or the greater force of a 1/4-20 tap.
It has a floating head that when the tap starts to enter the hole, it pulls out of the tapping head and disengages the drive force.
When the head is moved away while the tape is in the part, it automatically reverses the tap and it unscrews!
Some tapping head models have a 1:4 ratio, where it spins the tap 4 times faster on exit to make for faster tapping!
The tapping head doesn't care if it is driving a right or left hand thread!
Tapping heads are available in all sizes, and will tap a 1" thread if you have the machinery for it!
The only drawback I have found with the model I have is that it doesn't work in the horizontal position, so it can not be used in my lathe!
There are several companies which manufacture tapping heads, Tapmatic, Procunier name a few.

The depth of thread is adjusted at the spindle, and the rpm is best at 500 for general tapping.

I prefer to keep the cutting oil clean of metal chips, and clean the tap after each hole. This ensures long tap life! Some times when tapping a blind or shallow hole, I first tap as far as it will go, then take the tap out of the hole, remove the part, blow the chips out of the hole, and re tap to the desired depth! The taps never cross thread an exsisting thread, they just feed right back to the exsisting thread!

project5k
09-29-2006, 10:40 AM
excelent.. sok so can you see any reason why i couldnt get one of these for my drill press???
and what would something like that cost????
the biggest i would ever need to do would be 3/8 but 99% of what i do is 1/4 or smaller.... so one up to 1/4 would be fine and i'll just hand tap my 3/8 stuff...

wcarrothers
09-29-2006, 11:12 AM
Ya can't get PM's Widget.. But Tried to respond to your message in any case..

I know you are working on many things though..

b.

widgitmaster
09-29-2006, 06:14 PM
Ya can't get PM's Widget..

I don't understand, I checked my User CP and everything is enabled! Maybe its a problem with the CNCzone's new install!

Has anyone else had this problem?

My email address is WidgitMaster@widgitmaster.com
Eric

widgitmaster
09-29-2006, 06:22 PM
what would something like that cost????

Drill press is no problem!
Search eBay for "Tapmatic 30x" they run from $100+
Just make sure you get the right type shank to fit your machine or drill chuck!

candle
09-29-2006, 06:37 PM
okay, now i'm puzzled
your tapmatic 30x is for $100+, in my country cheapest tapping head for drill press i found is capable of doing M6 to M12 and costs 700pln+ (around $220)
what to look for if i need B16 tapered head capable of doing M3 to M8?
what should be spindle speed when tapping?

tiktok
09-29-2006, 07:31 PM
hey...just emailed you...was wondering if you're planning on making anymore 12x12s?
-bayard

widgitmaster
09-29-2006, 08:52 PM
I thought you were asking about the 12x12 t-slot plates I sell on eBay!

I want to make more, but as I have stated before, I'm a one man machine shop, and I can only do so much in one day! The 12x12 routers are still in the development stage, whereas the 12x6-minis are ready for production!

I do NOT have any automatic CNC milling or turning centers, so everything is done manually one operation at a time! These routers have much detail, and take many weeks for me to finish to my standards! I have my eye on a Tormack CNC mill, but that is $8000-$12000 which I don't have yet!

All my money is tied up in tooling to make this stuff, I have just bought a Bore Micrometer to measure the .87433 Dia bores needed for the ball bushings! Along with a used tapping head to tap the holes faster, and a diamond wheel to sharpen my cutters!

The price of raw aluminum material is at an all time high, and It only makes it harder for me to get the stuff I need!

I plan on taking the finished blueprints to a few machine shops to get quotes on having a few of these machines made, but that will only increase the cost to the buyer!

I am overwhelmed at the response my 12x12 router has had from people in the CNCzone, and I have not even finished the prototype yet!
All I can say is I will continue making them, if I can keep the cash flowing!
So please be patient and let this (retired 'ol tool maker) do his thing!

spalm
09-29-2006, 11:07 PM
Hey Widget. Just because you are overworked, it doesn’t mean you have to post porno. Gadzooks Man!

wcarrothers
09-30-2006, 07:34 AM
Ya we didn't need to see that..hehe

But you have made your point for sure..hehe


b.

widgitmaster
09-30-2006, 07:50 AM
Yea, your right! I should have worn my CNCzone hat! :)

project5k
09-30-2006, 09:59 AM
well while i really didnt wanna see all that, i just have one thing to say, if hes got the ca-honies to be in a metal working shop dressed like that, then hes a bigger man than i... i'd be scratched and bloody from one end to the other...

all that being said.... im still jealous as all getout of the setup he has.... this is the kind of man i want to apprentace under... he's probably forgotten more about machining than i'll ever know....

widgitmaster
09-30-2006, 10:44 AM
HaHa!
As I really do NOT work in cut-off shorts, but I do live in Sunny Florida where my shop is 80&#176; all day long even with the AC blasting at full speed! Even after I've had 12" of insulation blown into the attic to help! (just a bit)
One thing for sure, I'm never bored now that I have built my own shop!
Just sorry I didn't do it 20 years ago! I have passed up many a deal over the years for used equiptment, like a brake press, shears, rolls, honing machines, granite plates, etc... but none of those things will fit in 6x25 shop! Except for that neet little Tormach CNC mill! :) Pardon my drool!

wcarrothers
09-30-2006, 11:16 AM
6x25 eh? darn... Sounds like my first wood working shop in my raised ranch house. Something like 12x16 In that space I had my radial arm saw, Plainer/molder, joiner, conveyor sander, 14" bandsaw, spindle sander, 20" scroll saw and cyclone dust collector..

Now I'm in my walkout basement maybe 30x50 ish... More room just makes bigger trouble..hehe

b.

project5k
09-30-2006, 01:27 PM
you saw the pictures of my shop right, if bigger makes more trouble, then i'm doomed for sure.....

wcarrothers
09-30-2006, 01:45 PM
bigger means room for more trouble.. Although in my case it just means I need 2 or 3 of some things (squares, rulers, calipers, screw drivers, allen wrenches ect) since they get spread out all over..

Then when my 5 year old starts moving things all bets are off. 5 min projects turn into 45. Always laughed at my dad saying that to me as a little one. Course he only had a jig saw, hand drill and circular saw to loose..

Anyway..

b.

wcarrothers
09-30-2006, 02:03 PM
Darn you Widgitmaster!!!>.

you got me going to the tormach site to read about it and now I want one to...

I'm sure it would be better then my converted gear head (harbor freight) mill... Although other then a longer Z guessing due to the square column rather then round and such) that would be the place I'd gain over what I converted. Well that and of course I'm sure the drives for the table are more accurate then mine turned out..

Course I only paid 600 bucks for the gear head mill at the local HF (some weird manager special I was in the right place at the right time) and cost for bits from Camitronics and Mcmaster to do the conversion. I'm quite sure it came in about 4k less then what the tormach price is.. And that included the purchase of my lathe (which turns out to be a more usefull piece of equipment then I thought it would be although I still hate turning metal and don't believe I'm terriably good at that)

Hopefully not getting your mini thread off topic to bad:)

b.

mwalach
09-30-2006, 02:06 PM
Got the new tool mount yesterday. I will post some pics of the parts I make once I have something worth posting. Solid mount, test cuts look great!

Mike

widgitmaster
09-30-2006, 04:08 PM
Got the new tool mount yesterday. I will post some pics of the parts I make once I have something worth posting. Solid mount, test cuts look great!

Mike

Thanks for the follow-up post Mike!

How is the stability of the whole unit with those big steppers?
Does it dance on the table top during rapid or normal moves?

widgitmaster
09-30-2006, 04:36 PM
Here is the G-Code for the horse:

Horse (http://widgitmaster.com/horse.exe)

widgitmaster
09-30-2006, 04:39 PM
Here is the G-Code for the Knight

Knight (http://widgitmaster.com/knight.exe)

vcooney
09-30-2006, 05:27 PM
O-my gosh...does it take all that code to just make the knight?
Hey Widgetmaster...do you sell those homemade flycutters?

Vince

project5k
09-30-2006, 05:32 PM
ok, i love having that kind of code avilable... but darn thats a pain to scroll through....

vcooney
09-30-2006, 05:35 PM
Hey widgetmaster....
Nevermind on post #126, I just read your email after I posted that question.

The plans would be great.

Vince

mwalach
09-30-2006, 06:07 PM
Machine hops all over the place, I will need to make a base for it. I have slowed the speed down a bit. I will increase it slowly as I figure things out. I need to come up with a fixture system. I am planning on some sort of vaccum hold down. www.cncdudez.com has a simple setup that I might try. I am going to attempt to make my wife a duck stencil so she can paint our sons bathroom. I will try to cut it from some plexiglass I got from home depot. I will post pics of it once it is done.

mwalach
09-30-2006, 09:25 PM
Made my first real part tonight. It is a stencil for my wife to use in painting our bathroom. I cut it from 1/2" MDF. I tried using 1/4" plexiglass but it gummed up and broke the cutter in the first second. MDF cut much better. Used mach 2 software. Took 4 passes to cut it, going .100"-.200 each pass. I had to cut a little length off my spiral cutter for my dremel to get it to fit, but it works great!

Here are the pics.

project5k
10-01-2006, 09:05 AM
aint a thang wrong with that! hope i can get to the point where i can start doing that kinda stuff soon...

why do you think that the plexy gummed up? too many rpms? not enough cut feed rate? too small of a cutter?? whats your theories on this? im really hoping to be able to reliably do plexy and lexan on mine... so i'm trying to learn everthing i can... even if its just theory's at this point...

mwalach
10-01-2006, 12:53 PM
I'm not sure why the plexi gummed up. It is gummy when I drill it on my drill press or cut it on my table saw. Hard stuff to work with. I guess I could play with different bits, rpms or feedrates, but plexi isn't really a medium I wish to work it. The smell of it being cut makes me feel ill.

I made an engraving with some text. Drew the text in corel draw, exported as dxf and imported to g-code with mach 2. Used a sripral cutter in my dremel. Cuts look good, but I need a better bit. The bottoms of the cuts are rough. Also need to geneate a better tool path for my letters. Corel draw gives an inside and outside tool path instead of a single line.

I set up a sacraficial piece of mdf on the table and bolted it down. Yhen I ran the cutter aboit .100" into the mdf and ran around the limits of the machine, then drew a center point. This gives me a way to align parts to the machine. I can also cut all the weasy through material if I want.

Here is my set up and text engraving.

widgitmaster
10-01-2006, 07:17 PM
Mike try these:

Enco (http://www.use-enco.com/)

.0400 X .125SH SOLID CARBIDE MINIATURE 2 FLUTE DECIMAL END MILL
Type: Regular Length
Number of Flutes: 2
End Type: Centercutting
Size (Decimal Inch): .0400"
Shank Diameter (Decimal Inch): .1250"
Shank Diameter (Inch): 1/8
Length of Cut (Decimal Inch): .1200"
Overall Length (Inch): 1-1/2
Material: Solid Carbide
Tolerance: +.000-.002


Model #325-2285
Low Price: $6.89 ea

This is but one of hundreds of sizes and types to choose from!

When cutting Plexiglas, put a dab of dish-soap on it with a small brush!
It will give you a crystal clear finish with these cutters!

project5k
10-01-2006, 07:29 PM
REALLY!!!!! oh man thats an awesome tip, im planning on doing lots of plexy and lexan.... ill have to remember that one....

widgitmaster
10-01-2006, 07:59 PM
the trick with plastics is NEVER cut it dry!
mineral spirits will work too, but it is harder to clean up!

widgitmaster
10-01-2006, 11:36 PM
O-my gosh...does it take all that code to just make the knight?
Hey Widgetmaster...do you sell those homemade flycutters?

Vince

Like I need another project!

If I get the time, I'll draw it in CAD and post it for you!

To make the square hole in the end for the tool bit, milled the end of the 1" bar at 45&#176; then I milled a slot .315 wide and .315 deep.
Then I milled another piece of the same bar at 45&#176;, then I ground a fillet around the outside of the two parts prior to welding, and had the resident welder TIG weld them together. He was carefull not to burn the sharp edges, and with a little filing the tool bit slid right through! Then I put it in a lathe and turned the excess weld off, and drilled and tapped the 1/4-20 hole in the end!

vcooney
10-03-2006, 06:09 PM
Thanks widgetmaster...hope it wasn't to much trouble.
If I make this thing right...the guys at work are going to hit me up for a couple more.
Thanks again
Vince

widgitmaster
10-04-2006, 07:36 PM
Starting early this morning, I took the squared-up blocks and started cutting the outer profile of the Gantry Support Plates.

Then I drilled and counterbored all the holes for Cap Screws, and bored the holes for the Linear shafts, and the Y-Axis lead screws end bearings.

Then I proceeded to finish more of the outer profile, and the angles which make these so nice!

widgitmaster
10-04-2006, 07:44 PM
Next I removed the Vise, and put two large precision blocks on the table and dialed them in so they were parallel to the x-axis of my machine.

From that solid square surface, I used my 3" sine plate and the approporate stack of space-blocks to set the exace angle needed for the parts.

Then I placed the parts on some 1-2-3 blocks, and against the sine plate, then i clamped the parts to the machine table using little pieces of plastic to keep the hard steel clamps from damaging my nice aluminum parts!

Then I used a 1 1/2 long 2-flute .5 Dia end mill, to finish the angle and blend them in with the exsisting tangent points.

widgitmaster
10-04-2006, 07:51 PM
Then I removed all the stuff from my machine's table, and put the 6" Kurt vise back.

After dialing in my vise, I reversed the Jaws, so they were on the outside of the vise, and loosened the bolts on my machine's head so that I could swing it to 7° for the top angle on the parts.

Then I trammed my little sine plate to get the 7° as exact as possible.

Then I put my home made fly-cutter in the machines spindle, and set it in position to take a few .100" deep passes off the top of the part!

Now my head is on crooked, my shop is a total mess, but I now have the two gantry support plates for the new 12x12 router!

I'm hungry, Bye~

Eric

pminmo
10-04-2006, 07:54 PM
Absolutely gorgeous! I need a new cabinet 10" tablesaw....any interest in building one:cheers:

wcarrothers
10-04-2006, 08:31 PM
GEEEEEEESSSS.... Everyone take a moment to look at the way he clamps everything down squares it up..

one look at that and I suddenly have no idea how I will be able to afford the 12x12.... That must have taken the entire day to setup and make.

I don't think I can build something with that many steps without screwing up..

Wonder who is going to get the first one..

b.

wcarrothers
10-04-2006, 08:40 PM
Just wanted to say again... OH My God...

(and thinking to my self the side arms alone are going to be worth 1000 bucks.)

Also what do you do to get the finish so shiny? must be a trick to that..

b.

Jason Marsha
10-04-2006, 10:52 PM
Excellent work Eric. That is top notch work and I think people will really go for a high quality machine such as this one.
With such thick side arms one should be able to mill aluminium with these babies.
Keep the pics coming.

Jason

project5k
10-04-2006, 11:07 PM
georgeous, and ingenious, we are in the presence of a master.

RTP_Burnsville
10-05-2006, 09:27 AM
Eric,

I have been following this thread closely and it has become my favorite over the past week or so. I just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to share your project and experience with us, it's much appreciated.

Robert

widgitmaster
10-05-2006, 09:48 AM
Eric,

I have been following this thread closely and it has become my favorite over the past week or so. I just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to share your project and experience with us, it's much appreciated.

Robert

Thank You Robert!

As you can see from the drawing, I decided to extend the 7&#176; angle across the whole top of the part!
It made it much easier to make, and will be much stronger!
Today I will make the back plate which supports the linear rails!
Eric

jstransky
10-05-2006, 03:54 PM
I would like to ask you what is the price of your's machine and how much is S&H to Slovakia, EU. Next I would like to know if you have an experience with importing taxes in EU - If you already shipped to EU. I'm not able to find out how much is the tax. I have just information that it should be between 3 and 70 percent. NICE.
I'm working with RC electric cars in 1:24 scale and this kind of machine could be very good solution for cutting fiberglass, carbon , plastics and alu parts.
Can be a more powerfull spindele mounted on your machine or the dremel is the maximum?
Last question is if a hobbycnc profi driver with 200 oz steppers is good solution for the machine.

widgitmaster
10-05-2006, 06:02 PM
This morning I cleaned up the shop (just a little) and trammed the head on my mill so I could do some more parts!

I took a couple of pictures of my tramming methods, because I have seen alot of questions posted on CNCzone as to how it is actually done!

So for starters, I position the spindle near the rear of the machines table, and use a ridgid indicator holder with a .0005" dial indicator. This way I get a 180&#176; sweep or 3 points to set zero.
The 1st to points are parallel with the x-axis of my machine, then I tram in the y-axis direction. Usually if the head is way out, you need to repeat the procedure several times till it reads all three zeros.

Now, instead of bouncing my indicator's ball tip over the t-slots in my machine's table, I use a nice 123-block and set zero to the same corner on that block in all three tramming locations!

I hope this helps everyone!
Eric

widgitmaster
10-05-2006, 06:15 PM
Today I made the Y-Axis gantry back plate, it has two 1/8" deep x .376" wide slots, equally spaced at 1.1250" from center.

Then I made the support rails which go under the linear rails and have three clearance holes for the mounting screws of the round rails.

Then I milled the case hardened rails .156" dia x .070" deep using a carbide 4-flute end mill, just to get past the case on one side of the rails, then I drilled and tapped the soft center of the rail for #6-32 UNC screws.

The unit is looking better each day, but tomorrow I'll do more on the Mini-Router parts and make a bunch of 12"x6" T-slot plates so I have something to sell on eBay!

Somebody please clean my shop, I can't see the floor again! :tired:

gotis
10-06-2006, 08:20 AM
Place one of those little mills in one of these with some lighting.

http://cgi.ebay.com/TV-Cabinet_W0QQitemZ270036038755QQihZ017QQcategoryZ20487QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

widgitmaster
10-06-2006, 11:11 AM
Place one of those little mills in one of these with some lighting.

http://cgi.ebay.com/TV-Cabinet_W0QQitemZ270036038755QQihZ017QQcategoryZ20487QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

HUH?

wcarrothers1
10-06-2006, 11:31 AM
I think he is trying to say your work is so nice it should be displayed in a nice cabinet or something.

How many hours work do you have in that now?

Also you cutting your own rail supports.. Are you useing s rounded cutter (bullnose?) to cut the circular trof in the metal rail?



b.

RTP_Burnsville
10-06-2006, 01:34 PM
Also you cutting your own rail supports.. Are you useing s rounded cutter (bullnose?) to cut the circular trof in the metal rail?

b.

According to an earlier post he is using a new 1/2 bullnose cutter to make the supports.

wcarrothers1
10-06-2006, 01:36 PM
Thanks RTP..

b.

widgitmaster
10-06-2006, 09:24 PM
Yes, I use a 2-flute cobalt ball end mill to cut the radius on the rail supports.


Ok, here are the latest pictures of this growing machine!
So far, it weighs a full 39 lbs!

wcarrothers1
10-06-2006, 09:35 PM
That is a work of art..

b.

vcooney
10-06-2006, 11:11 PM
That is... beautiful.

Vince

widgitmaster
10-07-2006, 12:11 AM
Thanks for all the complements guys!
This unit has been lots of fun to make, and I still have a long way to go!

While I was in my shop today it occured to me how peacefull it was, no other machines making noise, no bosses barking at me or someone else! I had forgotten what a pleasure it was to just make stuff and calculate everything as I go! Without all the distractions, and pressure from management, my head is calmer, and math comes to me much easier! I should have done this years ago! :)

Eric

Geof
10-07-2006, 12:30 AM
..... I tried using 1/4" plexiglass but it gummed up and broke the cutter in the first second.......

I was skimming through these posts and noticed this. It is almost certain you were working with extruded plexiglass (acrylic); won't work, horrible stuff. Seek out cast acrylic, it machines very nicely using tools without any top rake; much like you would use for brass also around the same speed you would use for brass with HSS tooling but keep the feed down a bit or the plexi wil chip out. Little bit of dish soap:water, at 1:1 for lubricant works well.

project5k
10-07-2006, 12:56 AM
please define top rake

widgitmaster
10-07-2006, 01:18 AM
please define top rake


Top rake is the angle on a lathe tool bit, if the back is higher than the cutting edge it is negative, if it is level with the cutting edge it is neutral, if it is below the cutting edge, it is positive!

project5k
10-07-2006, 01:33 AM
ahhh, ok, i own a couple lathes, and can run them good enough for my needs, but never really learned the proper terms....

gotis
10-08-2006, 08:14 AM
I think he is trying to say your work is so nice it should be displayed in a nice cabinet or something.

How many hours work do you have in that now?

Also you cutting your own rail supports.. Are you useing s rounded cutter (bullnose?) to cut the circular trof in the metal rail?



b.

Yeah, that and it would be a cheap and classy way to control chips.

widgitmaster
10-08-2006, 10:11 AM
does this mean the dremel tool mount is finished?

Hey Mike,
I have tried to contact you with PM's from the zone, and via email, but no reply!
I have shipped the Dremel Motor mount, and you obviously have it as it has shown up in your pictures, but you have not paid me for it! I can not afford to work for free, and anyone on this site will agree with that!

Please contact me via email widgitmaster@widgitmaster.com

Eric

mwalach
10-08-2006, 11:14 AM
Eric, I just sent you an email requesting the price. I will send via paypal. Or just post the cost here.

thanks,

mike

mwalach
10-08-2006, 12:28 PM
Here is my lastest cut. It is a welsh dragon. I also have a dxf file for the inside detail, but I only cut the outline here. Made .100-.200 cuts then the final cut was .050. Wood is pine, cutter is dremel spiral cutter.

mwalach
10-08-2006, 12:29 PM
here is the pic.

mwalach
10-08-2006, 12:33 PM
Here are the dxf files of detail, outline and both.

mike

vcooney
10-08-2006, 12:53 PM
Hey widgetmaster (aka Erik)

Will that Dremel mount work with a 400 XPR? If so do you have any extra's to sell ?

Vince

widgitmaster
10-08-2006, 01:10 PM
Ok, Thanks Mike!!

As for the 400 XPR, well I don't know~ It looks like it has one of them ergonomic hand grips, too difficult to make clamps for!
I bought two dremet machines so far, and they both require different clamps!
I can not afford to buy any more spindle motors, not until I get some cash flow from sales!

the 300 series is a larger diameter than the 390 series!

I have bought more material, but had not planned on making them until all 5-Mini Routers are fainshed!
Eric

widgitmaster
10-08-2006, 04:37 PM
PayPal payment received Mike! Thanks!
I didn't realize you were havinh so much fun using the MiniRouter!

Eric

mwalach
10-08-2006, 09:36 PM
No problem eric!

Having a lot of fun. Next part will be a printed circuit board. I need to start testing my usb cnc control software, so I need to make my usb to parallel interface pcb. It will be another good test of the mill. If anyone is interested, I uploaded some dxf files to my website. I made dxf files for the entire alphabet using single lines for each letter. I didn't like that corel draw generated double lines letters. I want to make name plates with the mill. I will post some pics once I have made a few. I am thinking of selling name plates to the other teachers in my school to raise some money for my shop.

widgitmaster
10-08-2006, 09:49 PM
You need to get some real carbide cutters, those roto bits are too long and flex & chatter! The shorted they are and the closer the cutter is to the spindle bearings, the stronger they are!

Have you used and "Double sticky tape" to hold your parts down? Its good stuff!

Also, do you think it would be a good idea to put a knob on the leadscrew, so that you could move the router by hand? Just a thought!:)

Eric

mwalach
10-08-2006, 10:59 PM
I have been using the double sided tape. (in the carpet section of home-depot) Great stuff, holds really well, just apply even pressure to make it set.

I have a set of carbide cutter from drillbit city. I purchased the pcb kit that they sell. I need a good, thin, strong bit to cut out detail parts. The dragon lost his tounge and some other detail because the cutter was too big (and it is only 1/8" or so.)

A handle to move the axis might me nice, but I just jog the machine using my keyboard and that works just fine.

A few things I have noticed:
I had to slow the motors down because they skip steps if I try to run them at high speeds. Detached from the machine I can make the motors spin very fast, but on the machine they skip steps, so I have slowed them down. Still get decent speed.

I had to cut my spiral cutter in half to fit into the dremel in order to be able to get the drmel over the part.

widgitmaster
10-09-2006, 07:05 PM
Well, progress is slow but steady!

I have almost completed the z-azis components, with a little more details on the hardened rails, one more leadscrew, and 5-slideing t-slot blocks i'll be done!

I have found a better way of fastening the 3/8 dia rails for the y-axis, it was a big time saver and reduction in cost!
All I did was drill through the case from one side, then drill & tap the soft center for two 4-40 SHCS.

Prior to that I had been drilling and counterboring the rails, which really eats up carbide endmills, and warps the rails!

Now, they are perfect!

Eric

widgitmaster
10-09-2006, 07:10 PM
I have learned a lot from building these mini-routers, and especially the 12x12!

So I have decided to make the next one a Maxi-Router, which will be as large as I can build on my machinery! I will attemp to make it strong enough to move a 1/2" diam spindle router!

Then I will have the two router sizes! The Mini Router & Maxi Router.

Eric

wcarrothers1
10-09-2006, 07:13 PM
Wow.. That is one cool goal!!!

We all can't wait to see..

b.

mwalach
10-09-2006, 07:28 PM
Very cool project, the maxi router!

Anyway, here are mor epics from my shop. Made a sign for my classroom today. Painted it white first to fill in the detail, then used a tight nap roller to paint the blue surface. Looks nice.

here is the pic.

I also have prepped the table to mill a pcb. I have leveled the table with a router bit. I will then mill my pcb. It will be a USB to parallel converted to test my new cnc software. I will post more later this week.

mw

wcarrothers1
10-10-2006, 04:09 PM
I'm wondering....

What electrics are most people adding to their mini's?

Since I'm a servo user I would probably do servos so I could continue to use my same power supply...

But being new and never using steppers don't really know what the benifits to using them for the smaller machines vs others...

Guess what I'm wondering does the size of the mini say steppers are the better choice?

(me confused about steppers in general due to the lost step factor. Just can't get my hands around that possiable thing being ok),

b/

vacpress
10-10-2006, 06:04 PM
those are just too cute! too cute!

mwalach
10-10-2006, 07:31 PM
I use the xylotex stepper motor and control package www.xylotex.com.

As for the missed steps, not really a problem if everything is working as it should. Missed steps usually come if something binds up. You can put encoders on steppers, but that, like servos, only tells you that the motor is spinning, not that the axis is moving. Just a few thoughts.

vcooney
10-14-2006, 11:27 PM
Hey Widgetmaster,
What's the lastest on your 12 x 12 routers?
Have you sold off the 12 x 6's yet? If not how much are they going for?

Vince

widgitmaster
10-17-2006, 05:25 PM
Holly Cow!
I sold three Mini-Routers today!
I put one on eBay, it was sold in 10-minutes!

Guess I need to order more stuff!
Eric

austin.mn
10-17-2006, 05:57 PM
i can't beleive you are not selling three everyday. congratulations, and keep up the good work. i am still hopefull that my wife will let me buy one soon.

wcarrothers1
10-17-2006, 06:04 PM
Looks like you are getting a little more for them now to. Listing buy it now 600 and all..

nice..

b.

widgitmaster
10-17-2006, 06:37 PM
Well, I need to sell them for more, so I can afford the initial outlay for 10 more units! That's over $1000 just in raw materials, not including all the linear bearings and shafts!

Well, I have been working overtime in my shop! Sunday I worked 12 hours, had two machines running constantly! The mill was taking long cuts in Cast Iron Mill Tables, 18" long while I was making 60 aluminum pins for motor mounts on the Mini-Routers! Man is my shop a mess! Cast iron dust is everywhere!

I have also been working on the design for the Maxi-Router, and have decided to bump it up to NEMA-34 size motors, as the weight of the gantry and a 1/2" router motor is a bit heavier than the Dremel!

I have been trying new was to make the parts faster and easier with the same precision for the Mini-Router Y/Z axis components, and have learned much this week!

So the next batch will be done much faster! (I hope)
When the last two Mini's are finished, I'll start on the Y-axis slide for the 12x12 Router, as that one is sold too, once I get it finished!

Soon I'll need a vacation for retirement! (how do I do that?)
Eric

wcarrothers1
10-17-2006, 09:26 PM
There is a vacation from retirement?

I'm only 33. Wish I was retired so I could do the things I do..hehe

b.

vcooney
10-18-2006, 11:12 AM
Eric
Where do you buy your bearings from?

Vince

Sharx
10-18-2006, 01:14 PM
I have been looking for a small CNC to build myself for a while but when I saw your thread I don't have to look any more ;)
The 12"x12" router your making is just what I've been looking for.
Sign me up for one of those.

I was thinking of using the router for engraving in acrylic, aluminum and maybe crystal glass if that's possible.
I guess it would be possible to cut aluminum If you did it in several step with your router?

Anyway, great work and craftmanship.
I'll be watching this thread and have my creditcard ready ;)

Cheers

Joules
10-18-2006, 02:49 PM
Has anyone in the UK got one of these works of art yet? I sure would like to get a 12"x12", if the waiting list isn't into 3 figures yet....

By the way I have just rolled my tongue back in after my jaw crashed into the keyboard.... PLEASE tell me these are going to be able to be shipped into the UK.

Joules

cdfracing
10-18-2006, 04:25 PM
Hey joules,

Im in the Uk and have one on the way!

Chris

dutchboy
10-18-2006, 07:58 PM
I have been following this thread for quite some time and weighing my options. I'm currently building a medium (30x60 inches) CNC machine using aluminum, but absolutely love your workmanship. The fact that you are so open with your work speaks volumes about you and this forum.

Waiting for your larger machine to appear to see if I want(need) to "upgrade"

Dutch

widgitmaster
10-18-2006, 08:23 PM
Thanks Dutch! And welcome to the Zone!


Unfortunately, the largest plates I can mill on my machinery is 24"x24", so my Maxi-Router will not exceede that in travel, It was my shortsightedness for not buying a bigger table when I set my shop up in the beginning! Something I will regret for a long time!

But I like a good challenge, and to make the base plate for the Maxi-Router which should be 36"x27.187"x.5" and a top plate of 24"x24"x.625 will take me some time, but I'll do it!

Now that I have sold a few of the Mini's, I can spend some time on the 12"x12" which has been gathering dust on my livingroom floor for weeks!

widgitmaster
10-18-2006, 08:45 PM
As illustrated on post #51, the open ball bushings will be sealed with .062" thick neoprene rubber, and this is a new concept!
My first concern is how do I cut or shear this stuff to the close tollerances I need!

I have been thinking of using a gasket punch to make the basic holes, and rigging up a fixture in my lathe and mount a 1/4" pneumatic die grinder on the tool post, to grind the id of the rubber seal nice and round so it actually seals against the linear shafting!

Then I need to make long 3/16 wide strips that are also very parallel to seal on the rail support so nothing can enter the ball bushings from the sides! This can also be ground flat on my surface grinder, using a nice fixture to hold the rubber strip flat paralel & square!

These seals not only have to wipe the round linear shafting, but the 15° angled rail supports as well! When that is done, I need to drill some long intersecting holes for oil ports!

I'm sure you all know that dust, chips and such will jam up the balls, and make the slides bind which results in lost steps in the stepper motors!

Well, after I figure out how to make the delicate rubber components, I will also need to find and adhesive to bond the ends of the strips to the bushing end seals. Does anyone have any experience bonding neoprene?

Kipper
10-20-2006, 04:17 PM
This may be way out of the ballpark but could you machine a mould in AL (you can use billet if you like :) ) and try making the seals in some form of casting silicone?

Joules
10-20-2006, 04:31 PM
Not sure if rubber is the best option, as fine stuff is going to roll it's way in. Still pretty hard to beat a felt pad, and cheap to stamp/replace.

Joules

wcarrothers1
10-20-2006, 05:26 PM
Hehe.. He is just overthinking the design to make us wait longer:) After all most of us are planning on placing the unit with the rest of our art collection..hehe

b.

widgitmaster
10-20-2006, 05:45 PM
machine a mould in AL and try making the seals in some form of casting silicone?

I like that idea, as molds are no problem !
As for felt, I doubt I could make a strip .187x.063x3" long and have it fit in a confined space without problems!

I did some research on Silicone RTV, it has an open time of 120 minutes, and can be injected into a mold cavity with a syringe!
The shrinkage is only .001" per one inch!

If I make several of these units, it would be to may advantage to make a mold for the entire seal assembly, and just stretch it into position and fasten it as planned with an aluminum plate and 4 flat head screws!

The mold idea has just got my head spinning out of control, and I like anything that makes these easier to produce!

Thanks for your suggestion Kipper!


Eric

widgitmaster
10-20-2006, 05:52 PM
Because there are so many people waiting for my 12x12 router, I have decided it would be best if I sell it on eBay with a starting price of $400 over the materals cost, then everyone interrested can bid on it!

The more I make on the 12x12, the faster I can build the Maxi-Router, which has a top plate of 24x24! I know everyone wants to have a BIG router table, but as I have stated before, the Maxi-Router will be the largest I can build on my machinery!

Eric

ps
Thanks Bill!

Sharx
10-20-2006, 07:03 PM
Are you going to just make one 12x12 router?
Would the 24x24 cost a lot more than the 12x12?

I would love one of your routers as the design look very solid.
Keep up the good work ;)

widgitmaster
10-20-2006, 09:08 PM
Are you going to just make one 12x12 router?
Would the 24x24 cost a lot more than the 12x12?

The cost is undetermined at this point, as I have not hat time to sit and go through all the receipts for the 12x12!

Both the 12x12 & Maxi-Router will have the same number of linear slide bushings, and use the same y & z axis slide blocks, so when I perfect one the other will be easier!

Therefore making another 12x12 is not a problem either!

Eric

Madclicker
10-20-2006, 09:43 PM
I've never seen a commercial thread get this much tolerance in a purely diy forum.

wcarrothers1
10-20-2006, 09:54 PM
Mad... if you look bach through the thread there is much to learn from widget. From the great pictures learning how to clamp things down to make duplicates to his flycutter and the list goes on.

Becides he is building them him self and they are SO perty..

But anyway waiting to see what 400 over cost looks like..hehe

b.

widgitmaster
10-20-2006, 10:34 PM
I've never seen a commercial thread get this much tolerance in a purely diy forum.

Origonally I was just building the Mini-Router for myself, but it was received so well, that I built 5 more! Then I was instructed by a close friend to Incorporate to protect myself!, so I searched for the domain name and within a week, WidgitMaster was alive!

I don't expect to do this for ever, but as long as I have my health and the ability to work in my shop, I will tinker and design stuff! Selling it as I go is simply paying for the $25,000 I spent to put a shop in garage, and it's not paying it off as fast as you may think!

I guess that I like to share my ideas, and posting all the step by step pictures is fun for me, and very helpfull for those who are just getting started in the machine tool hobby or business! After all, I can't take it with me!

As far as being a commercial thread, well, I could take the WidgitMaster, Inc. off my headings? I'm sorry if my project ventures offend you!

Eric

mwalach
10-20-2006, 10:55 PM
don't get mad about mad. I think if he reads the posts here he will see what this thread is really about.

Keep posting, we all love to see your work. You really are a DIY'selfer. I think we have all learned a lot from your posts, I know I have.

mw

project5k
10-21-2006, 01:04 AM
absolutely, just watching as your projects have grown have not only tought me some stuff about building these machines, but so much about machine setup, and the shop that i want to have soon... machining teniques, and terminoligy.... not to mention that seeing how your doing things have not only tought me how, but have boosted my confidence in my abilities to venture foward into my own build... i'm sorry if he sees this as a commercial thread, i see it as one heck of an education...

Jason Marsha
10-21-2006, 09:28 AM
Keep on posting Eric, your machines are an inspiration to those of use who want to build or buy finely crafted machines made in a home shop.

Jason

dutchboy
10-21-2006, 04:45 PM
I agree. Don't stop posting because someone didn't take the time to actually read the full thread before commenting. I feel I have learned more from this thread then all of the other threads on this forum combined. Keep it up Eric!

Dutch

Kipper
10-21-2006, 05:38 PM
Pay no heed Widgitmaster, I love you matey :D I didnt know how to check the alignment of my mill and through reading this thread I now know :beer: As far as a commercial thread...Whats wrong with making your hobby pay :shrug: I make a few quid here and there and see no problem with that (hell if I was in the market to buy a machine i'd probably be negotiating a purchase from you myself as the quality is equal to if not surpasses many "commercial" products i've looked at!!) You pass on your knowledge for free as do many others at CncZone and I appreciate that. Oh and put the inc back in as it looks kinda cute :) One of my uncles is a 71 year old toolmaker and he still enjoys working at what he enjoys the most....Making things...Just off to see what the protagonist makes....Longest post from me yet :D

widgitmaster
10-21-2006, 06:22 PM
Thank you all for your support!
I have received and official "Okidoki" from the Moderators, and they don't see any problems with my posting images with intents to sell my creations! The moderator also felt that my posts were educational and inspirational!

I have to say that negative post had sent me for a loop, and I have been so pre occupied with his negativity, that I could not concentrate!

I have just purchaced a new 24"x18"x4" granite surface plate and stand, so I could assemble all my units on a flat surface! After leveling the 12x12 router on the rock, I was able to measure the slop in the x-axis slide!

The X-axis slide block on the 12x12 router had two loose bores for the ball bushings, and I had ordered a new block of aluminum to re-make the x-axis slide block! It is the bore diameter that controls the amount of loosness or preload on the ball bushings! The Manufacturer's specifications suggest a .8750" dia. bore, for a .5000" dia. linear shaft! Well the actual diameter of the shafts is .4995" so the bores also have to be .0005" smaller!

Well, as it turned out I now have to scrap pieces! I made the bores perfect using the .0001" bore gage i bought on eBay, but screwed up the location of the bores by .100"! I forgot to set the offset for the dang edge finder! That is something I have not done in many years!

Now I have to reorder another 16"x4"x2" block of aluminum, and will attempt to remake the slide again! In the mean time I have opened the loose bores on the 1st block to .999 dia. and plan to press in aluminum plugs and rebore the holes! This may or may not work, as the pressure might warp the whole slide block, or the plugs might loosten up after they are bored out and slotted!

Either way, I'm gratefull for the Moderator's positive response, and now I can relax and make the components for the Y-Axis slide!

Thanks again for all your supportive comments!
Eric
WidgitMaster

Madclicker
10-21-2006, 09:24 PM
Didn't mean to tweak you gramps. I was just stating the obvious. It was obvious the moderators were ok with your posts or they would have deleted or moved them sooner.....like they did the other one today!

Kipper
10-21-2006, 10:37 PM
Whoops my bad :cheers:

widgitmaster
10-21-2006, 10:50 PM
deleted

Madclicker
10-21-2006, 11:00 PM
Now I take offence at your "Gramps" reference are you reffering to the age of the poster or his quality/capabilities? be careful how you answer as you may be commiting yourself to further disgrace. Oh and btw i'm not "aged" or "retired" but have an interest in how this all pans out! Try this out..."I'm sorry for being so objectionable and knowing so little but with the fullness of time I will surely learn" hth Personally if you were within grasping distance i'd be fairly pissed off with you...ok so 4.000 miles is a fair distance and i'll adjust my tone to suit but wtf is going on in your head? If it's "obvious" then leave it alone :shrug: this may seem like i'm more "PO'd" than "Gramps" and yeah that would be true...Now i'm no spring chicken but your comments so far have disparaged the ideal of passing on knowledge and carried over into "you're too old" syndrome! I say again wtf is going on in your head? i'll end with a ? is there a cut off age for being "gramps"


Geeze...now can't make a reference to people of the same age. Get a grip.

ger21
10-21-2006, 11:44 PM
For anyone planning on spending any time on internet forums, rule #1:

If someone says something you don't like, ignore it, and the problem goes away. Respond, and you create a far bigger issue. Just my observation. :)

widgitmaster
10-22-2006, 08:32 PM
Today I made a single-lip cutter on my surface grinder, so that I could machine a 15&#176; angle on both sides of the linear rail supports!

Then I milled out the slide block from a solid chunk of 6061 aluminum, it has the radius for the rails, and the 15&#176; angle to match the angle on the ball bushings!

Then I made the end plates with the end bearings for the z-axis lead screw, which are pressed into the aluminum.

Then I turned up the 1/2-10 Acme lead screw to fit exactly between the bearings, so there is zero end play!

Then i took the 18" long linear rail, and used an abrasive cut-off wheel in my surface grinder to cut two 7 1/8" long rails.
Then I put the rails in my mill vise, where I milled the ends to a length of 7.000" with a 1/4" dia 4-flute carbide end mill!
Later I'll drill and tap the mounting holes in the rails, when I get all the calculations done and know their exact locations!

After all the holes were drill, tapped, and counter-bored for 10-24 SHCS, all I need to do is assemble it and make the bores for the y-axis ball bushings!

To be continued!

vcooney
10-23-2006, 01:37 AM
You are a Master...very nice work.
Hey Widgitmaster you are up a little late it must be about 2:30 am where your at.

Nothing like a little OT

Vince

project5k
10-23-2006, 09:06 AM
so i have to ask, what would you charge me to come and apprentice in your shop for a couple weeks? I'm so totally in awe of what your making and the skills that it must take... (insert smiley bowing down and saying "WE'RE NOT WORTHY")

widgitmaster
10-25-2006, 07:05 PM
I have just listed one of the mini's on eBay!

Eric

Oldmanandhistoy
10-25-2006, 09:43 PM
Hi Widgitmaster,

Is it possible to get dxf’s of your 24” x 24” machine? This question may have been asked already but it would take hours for me to go back through the entire thread.:)

John

widgitmaster
10-26-2006, 12:02 AM
Hi Widgitmaster,

Is it possible to get dxf’s of your 24” x 24” machine? This question may have been asked already but it would take hours for me to go back through the entire thread.:)

John

Actually there is not much of a CAD file yet, I have only the concepts entered!

I had finished a Mini-Router today, and have been distracted by a new project of making a solid index stop for my lathe out of cast iron!
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26326
With all the production of duplicte items I have been making on my lathe, I need a stop with at least 5-indexible positions! So that I can do multiple operations per setup! This will speed the process of making parts on the lathe!

When I get to the point of building a 24x24 Router, I will start a new thread and keep it all in one place!

Eric

ViperTX
10-27-2006, 07:18 PM
I suppose you're doing manual feeds on the lathe.....I didn't see anything to disengage your power feed??

widgitmaster
10-27-2006, 08:02 PM
Actually my lathe has power feed in X & Y axis, but it does not have an auto shut off feature! That's typical of many lathes!

widgitmaster
10-27-2006, 09:15 PM
Well, its been an interresting day! The UPS truck dropped off 20 boxes with an average weight of 50 lbs! The boxes contained all the raw materials for making 10 more Mini-Routers, 30 miniture Dial Indicator Adjusters!

The Adjusters have been selling steadily on eBay, and are fun to make!
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23339

Also, the material I ordered for the Z-Axis slide block on the 12x12 Router was in one of the many boxes!

Man have I got work to do! ;)

widgitmaster
10-28-2006, 10:37 PM
Today I worked on the Z-Axis slide block for the 12x12 Router!

I have milled all the external dimensions, and will put the three 1/4" T-Slots on the front face.

Then I'll bored the holes for the Ball Bushings!

vcooney
10-29-2006, 07:54 AM
Eric,
I was wondering, how big of a cut can you take with that size of endmill?

Vince

widgitmaster
10-29-2006, 09:20 AM
The force of a cutter that size must be exceeded by the clamping force of the vice! A 6" Kurt vise has a clamping force of over 1000 PSI Working with large diameter, multi-flute endmills it not as efficient as a two flute in aluminum, they must be run much slower RPM and chatter a lot! I used it so my final pass would cover the entire surfaces, and give me a uniform surface finish! (I don't like all the little swirls an endmill leaves)

vcooney
10-29-2006, 10:32 AM
Eric,
Do you use cutting fluid on aluminum...it doesn't look like it in the pictures.

Vince

widgitmaster
10-29-2006, 11:38 AM
Vince,
If you look closely to the 1st picture, you can see the little brass knozzle. It's an atomizer spraying a coolant on the endmill! Just enough to keep the material from sticking to the cutter! Not as messy as a flood coolant would be!
Eric

vcooney
10-29-2006, 11:54 AM
Ok...thanks...I didn't notice it's all coming clear now.
At work we mill dry or use Isoproply Alcohol so the part stays clean. It doesn't seam to work all that well. Parts scream and (IPA) boils off to fast.

Vince

wcarrothers1
10-29-2006, 05:01 PM
Now for the stupid question...

where to get an atomizer coolant sprayer..

Or what kind is best?

Is the thing something like this: http://www.tptools.com/product.asp?base%5Fno=ME%2D1000B&str%5Fbase%5Fno=PL%2D4510%2CPL%2DENAMEL%2CPL%2D470%2CSEM%2D39783%2CSEM%2D42013%2CME%2D1000B%2CPL%2D265G%2CME%2DNOZZLES%2CME%2DEXTENSION%2C8001%2D61%2C8001%2D62%2CMS%2DPAINTS%2CMS%2DSEALER%2CBWHEEL%2DPAINT%2CB%2D217%2CBTRUNK%2DPAINT%2CBHI%2DTEMP%2CBBRAKE%2DPAINT%2CME%2DSW362%2CME%2DFS459%2C&header%5Ftitle=Paint+Sprayers%2DPaints%2C+Primers%2C+Sealers%2C+Undercoating&page%5Fname=prod%5Flist%5Fdisplay%2Easp&search%5Ftype=L2%7E240&size1=&size2=&gender=&ShowImages=yes&sq=0&cont=1&intPgNo=1&mscssid=N6CVDLGU71UD8NBEKKVKPN92SLUSCWTC

b/

widgitmaster
10-29-2006, 05:55 PM
I use a "Kool-Mist" brand atomizer, available at www.use-enco.com

- - - - - - - - -

Worked all day on the Z-axis slide block for the 12x12 Router!

I successfully bored the two holes for the ball bushings, .8745 +- .0002
Much easier with my new bore gage!

Then I milled the slots through the bores, so there is .025" clearance for the linear rail support.

Then I milled the three t-slots, equally spaced at 1.0" from center.
The t-slots atr for 1/4" t-nuts, and the z-axis slode block was increased to 5" wide to support a larger 1/2" spindle router motor!

Next I have to bore the holes for the y-axis slide block!

vcooney
10-29-2006, 06:39 PM
Very nice, but when you said spindle router are you talking about a wood router like Dewalt or are you going to machine your own?

widgitmaster
10-29-2006, 07:16 PM
Very nice, but when you said spindle router are you talking about a wood router like Dewalt or are you going to machine your own your own?

I will not be providing any electronics, just the mechanicals!
The plate is made to adapt to any brand router motor! The Wire Nuts something to think about!

wcarrothers1
10-29-2006, 07:25 PM
Sweet Widgit...

b.

widgitmaster
11-01-2006, 07:35 PM
I have successfully finished the X-Y-Z axis slides, all they need is the Delrin nuts!

Next, I need to work on the spacers for the Ball Bushings, and the seals for each axis! That is going to be interresting to say the least!

The router is VERY precision, there is absolutely NO slop or endplay in any of the axis slide blocks! They're just slicker than snot on a doorknob! :)

I had to mill a 29° knotch in the back of the z-axis slide block, as it was hitting the y-axis end plates when the z-block was at the bottom of its travel!

Eric

vcooney
11-01-2006, 11:49 PM
Eric,
That machine is very nice. I like how you do the assembly on a microflat table. Do you by chance have that (microflat) in the house full time?
What dose the little woman say about that?

Vince

widgitmaster
11-02-2006, 08:37 AM
Here is the entire batch of images collected during the creation of this router, I know they are scattered all through this large post so I hope this makes life easier!

Eric

zoltan
11-02-2006, 09:18 AM
Hi Eric,

What is the price of such jewelry (only the mechanics, without motors and without electronics or anything else) and what is the size of working area/volume. Also, I am interested if you would ship such a machine and what would be the approximate shipping and handling cost. What motor size can accommodate this machine?

Thank you.

Zoltan

zoltan
11-02-2006, 09:23 AM
Sorry, I forgot to mention - shipping and handling cost for shipping to Timisoara, Romania.

Zoltan

widgitmaster
11-02-2006, 10:52 AM
Here are the specifications for the above unit:

Motor frame size: NEMA-23
Depth: 17.25" (438.15 mm)
Width: 17.75" (450.85 mm)
Height: 17.125" (434.975 mm)
X-Travel: 11.256" (285.9024 mm)
Y-Travel: 10.671" (271.0434 mm)
Z-Travel: 2.881" (73.1774 mm)
Distance under Z-Axis: 3.400" (86.36 mm)
Distance between Y-Axis supports: 13.55" (344.17 mm)
Depth of X-Axis T-slot Plate: 15.00" (381 mm)
Current Weight: 44 Lbs (19.9580643 kilograms)(including motor mounts)
Status: Unfinished 11/02/06

widgitmaster
11-02-2006, 10:56 AM
Sorry Zoltan,

Because so many people have been asking me for this unit, I have no choice but to list it on eBay when finished so everyone can bid on it!

Eric

wcarrothers1
11-02-2006, 11:02 AM
Post the link once you list it. I can't wait to see the bidding war on this one.. Make sure it's a nice long battle 6+ day auction..hehehe

b.

widgitmaster
11-02-2006, 11:07 AM
Actually, if I'm not mistaken that is a violation of CNCzone policy!
All I can do is make a post the day I list it! That's the fine print between DIY and a Commercial listing!

Sorry. . . . . .

Eric

joedanial
11-02-2006, 11:25 AM
Such a precision effort....u really gain my respect....
Perhaps when everything is complete....u could pile up the blueprints,photos,
assembly instruction manuals in the form of DIY book...i'm sure to purchase
these DIY book from u.....just name it the price...coool

wcarrothers1
11-02-2006, 11:29 AM
aaaaa... Yes.. Well no need to post a link then.. Just a heads up. And if that isn't ok I'll just keep refreshing ebay..hehe Should be a good fight though.. I'm quite sure the bids will be to rich for me but it is a great piece of work and will be a bargan at what ever price it goes for..

The learning/showing the process is what is of benifit here.b

joedanial
11-02-2006, 11:46 AM
im not interested in bidding this cool stuff in the auction....well...u can fabricate
2 or 3 sets of this machine again, just name ur price...i'll buy

Perhaps u can pilled up the blueprints including assembly instructions and photos
in a form of D.I.Y booklet when completed....name it ur price....i'll sure to purchase from u......and maybe perhaps others who's really interested interested in ur current project.....keep up the nice work...

wcarrothers1
11-02-2006, 12:09 PM
I'd bet he will come up with a set price/buy it now type thing after the frist few sell and he gets a baseline of what he can get for them... That will hopefully help the people who are not Ebay savy tending to never win stuff:)

b/

studysession
11-04-2006, 01:51 PM
That looks great!@

widgitmaster
11-04-2006, 06:08 PM
For three days now, I have been doing nothing but squaring up blocks and plates of aluminum!

The chips on my shop floor are over a foot high, and I'm no where near finished! All I have done is get the 1st two dimensions on all the parts!

When I'm done, I'll have 10 brand new Mini-Routers!!
Each of the cardboard bins has a print with 10 or 20 blank parts!

But it is fun! :)

eman5oh
11-04-2006, 06:46 PM
Looking good, I'll be watching for one on the big E.

Jason Marsha
11-05-2006, 12:36 AM
Keep on working Eric. From all of those AL chips no one can say you were shirking work.
Keep those pics coming it encourages those of us who would like to reach your level of machining at some point.

Jason

widgitmaster
11-05-2006, 06:29 PM
I added another two inches of chips on the floor today!
After mounting the vise perpendicular to the mill table, I was able to mill the ends of all the blocks and plates!

Now its time to start drilling, taping and boring holes!

Pizza is here, time to stop working! :)

widgitmaster
11-05-2006, 11:59 PM
Now for the stupid question...

where to get an atomizer coolant sprayer..

Or what kind is best?

Is the thing something like this: http://www.tptools.com/product.asp?base%5Fno=ME%2D1000B&str%5Fbase%5Fno=PL%2D4510%2CPL%2DENAMEL%2CPL%2D470%2CSEM%2D39783%2CSEM%2D42013%2CME%2D1000B%2CPL%2D265G%2CME%2DNOZZLES%2CME%2DEXTENSION%2C8001%2D61%2C8001%2D62%2CMS%2DPAINTS%2CMS%2DSEALER%2CBWHEEL%2DPAINT%2CB%2D217%2CBTRUNK%2DPAINT%2CBHI%2DTEMP%2CBBRAKE%2DPAINT%2CME%2DSW362%2CME%2DFS459%2C&header%5Ftitle=Paint+Sprayers%2DPaints%2C+Primers%2C+Sealers%2C+Undercoating&page%5Fname=prod%5Flist%5Fdisplay%2Easp&search%5Ftype=L2%7E240&size1=&size2=&gender=&ShowImages=yes&sq=0&cont=1&intPgNo=1&mscssid=N6CVDLGU71UD8NBEKKVKPN92SLUSCWTC

b/


Hello Bill,
Actually I have one of these pressurized bottles too! I keep it filled with Way Lube, and spray all my machines down frequently! It keeps them from rusting in the high humidity here in Florida!

Eric

Jason Marsha
11-08-2006, 05:52 PM
Any more pics?

Jason

widgitmaster
11-12-2006, 07:35 PM
I suppose everyone has been wondering where I've been hiding, well I had to make a $14,000 decision!

On one hand I had my eye on a Tormach CNC milling machine with all the accessories.
On the other hand I had a house with an aging and defective Air Conditioning system.

I called in the AC service tech, and he opened up the coils and showed me all the fiberglass insulation jam packed in the fan & coils! This explained the dusty irritating atmosphere in my nice home!

After seeing that, and crawling through my attic, it was obvious the system had failed in over a dozen locations! So I had no choice but to spend my money on a complete NEW AC system! That meant all the old ducts were to be removed, several diffusers needed to be relocated, and return vents needed to be added to several rooms! The really bad part besides all the fiberglass dust in the house was they packed my garage and shop to the ceiling with boxes and piles of new duct boards!

Well, when the dust settles, and my shop has been evacuated from invaders, I'll anxiously start to make all the parts I started last week!
For what its worth, I contacted over a dozen AC companies for estimates, that included Sears Home Center! All companies except Sears had one thing in mind, and that was to get every penny I owned out of my pockets! However Sears had the entire reverse attitude, and was hell bent on saving me money! I found that quite refreshing, so they got the contract!

Itchy Eric

ps
I really wanted a CNC Mill too!

The last two hurricanes did more damage than I had expected, as the ducts were collapsed, and the insulation was all piled up on one side of the attic!

wcarrothers1
11-12-2006, 08:36 PM
Winter is comming (well you are in fl..) so what do you need ac for anyway. (least for a few months)..

Oh well. I don't think you would be happy with a tormach. Don't think it is to much bigger then my converted mill and I'm pretty sure that would not be big enough for ya..hehe

b.

widgitmaster
11-12-2006, 08:44 PM
size was an issue, as my shop is so small!
winter is the only time one can work in an attic in Florida!
It's 70 outside, but it is still 83 in the attic!

KateC
11-12-2006, 11:10 PM
Hi Eric,
I've been Greatly admiring your work for a while now. It's amazingly
exceptional.

You've probably been asked many times, But, why don't you build your own
cnc machine. It's apparent to me you'd do as good a job and likely better.

Cast iron is dirty but machines nicely. I'm sure you already know that.

CNC'ing it is not much of a problem either.

I think you'd do an impressive job on your own cnc machine. And it'd be
better than what most of us can even afford.

Great work!
John

wcarrothers1
11-13-2006, 08:44 AM
Ya good point.. I don't like going in my attic to far into the summer or winter..hehe

b.

widgitmaster
11-18-2006, 09:35 PM
The AC is finished, the cleanup is done, the many trips to the bank to get the financing inorder is done!

Now I can make chips again!
I started last night on the lathe, and made several sets of ten parts!
I have made the delrin nuts for the Y & Z axis too!

I did a little research, and found that a .250" Drill Blank made of hardened and ground HSS is 4" long and only cost me $1.35 each, that's about 1/3 the cost of a 6" long .250" dia Thomson Linear rail! (which needs to be cut to length)

I like anything that saves me time and money!

All the parts for the 10 Mini-Routers have been milled flat, parallel, and square to size, so all that's left is to drill, tap & bore!

I feel like an Elf making X-Mas presents!

Eric

ViperTX
11-18-2006, 10:26 PM
Well Eric ....Santa is clammoring for you to burn the midnight oil.....

mermaid1015
11-19-2006, 12:06 AM
Hey ViperTX, mermaid1015 here.

Just saw that you are from Cedar Park...Texas? Ever heard of Liberty Hill?

ViperTX
11-19-2006, 12:11 AM
Yep, just up the road at Steward Junction...or something like that....Hiwy29...I think....why is that where you are at...PM me.

widgitmaster
11-21-2006, 10:28 PM
I have finished another Mini-Router, it's up for bids on eBay if your interested!
Eric

ps
Search for "Precision Mini CNC Router"


SOLD to a CNCzone Member!

Thank you very much!
Eric

rschap1
11-27-2006, 10:02 AM
Fantastic job. Looks like some very nice work. Just have to ask if you considered purchasing components such as these rather than the construction of them. CONRATS

widgitmaster
11-27-2006, 11:37 AM
Well, when I designed the Mini-Router, I tried to keep everything as compact as possible to keep the cutting forces close to the sliding mechanisms. Components in the 1/4" and 3/8" diameter are not easily available as ball bushings, so I tried teflon and delrin, and ended up using hard bronze!

As for the the 12x12 router, the same objective applied. Using off the shelf items would have increased the distances between the Y & Z axis slides, and increased the width of the z-axis rail spacing. To do that would have made the base and top plate even wider, and more costly!

Anyone can spend money and buy off the shelf items, but not everyone knows how to design around limitations and manufacture the final product! Not to mention how much fun a good challenge can be!

WidgitMaster

rschap1
11-27-2006, 11:45 AM
Had not noticed how small the set up was. I was thinking 3/4" dia shafts or larger. Stuff that small is certainly not readily available, and lots of it either real expensive, or not precise enough to be real good. Looks like a nice set up you made!

widgitmaster
11-27-2006, 05:54 PM
I'm not sure everyone realizes all the detail that goes into making a T-slot plate out of MIC-6 cast aluminum, so here is a little blurb on the actual process I have to use!

1st I buy the plates pre-cut to 12 1/4 x 6 1/4 x .5, then I remove the plastic film which protects the polished finish of MIC-6. Next I run the plate edges over my little 1" belt sander to remove all the heavy burrs from the supplier's massive stock saw!

Then I placed 5 pieces in the vise and machined one edge clean using my 3" carbide shell mill with 5-inserts, then I flipped the parts over and machined them to exactly 6"

Next I turned my vise 90° so the jaws were perpendicular to the x-axis of my mill, then I set up my stop and placed one of the plates in the vise so I could machine the ends square to a length of 12"

Then I put the vise back to normal (parallel to the x-axis) position, and installed my long aluminum soft jaws. Then I placed a chunk of round stock in the vise, and closed it tightly, this lets the jaws roll into the natural position of the vise, then I machined a step in the aluminum jaws 3/8 deep x 1/2 wide.
Then I installed my vise stop so the plates would stop in the same location every time.

Next I loaded the Drill Chuck, picked center and end zero with my edge finder, and used a #12 stubby cobalt drill to put all the mounting holes in the plates. Each plate has ten holes!
Next I used a two flute counterbore tool with a pilot to machine a counterbore in all the holes.

Next I have to machine the five T-Slots!

So I used a new 9/32 dia 2-flute end mill, and a 3/8 R8 endmill holder, set the end of the tool to zero on the top center of the plate in the soft jaws, and raised the knee .367" Then I mounted my Kool-Mist coolant atomizer to the side of the mill head, so the nozzle was in the perfect place to blast the chips away and spray the coolant on the cutting edges!

Well, the chips were flying everywhere within a six foot radius of the spindle, and my garage was all fogged up with spray mist! But I managed to mill all the top slots in each plate.

Next, I used a 6-flute staggered tooth HSS t-slot cutter, and I have found the 8-flute Cobalt staggered tooth cutters do not work at all in cast aluminum! (MIC-6)

Again, the chips were flying everywhere, and my garage was once again all fogged up! My 4 1/2 HP air compressor worked it's little tail off!

So I used a 9/32 endmill to rough a slot, then rapid feed back to the start point, offset .0225 and climb milled a nice finish on one side of the slot, the offset again .0225 and climbed back to the start point. Then I used a T-Slot cutter offset .005 to the climb cut side, then offset .005 to the other side and climbed back to the start point.

That's 6 passes 12" long per one T-slot, and 5-slots per plate!
A total of 360" of travel! So ten plates is 3600" of total travel just to mill all the T-Slots!

After cleaning up a bit and removing the soft jaws, I put my big 10x8x5 angle plate in the vise, so I can stand the plates on end and mill the little 3/8" deep notch in the middle of one end of all plates, one at a time!


Now with an assortment of files, scrapers, countersinks, I have deburred all the sharp edges and have 10 finished T-Slot top plates for the Mini-Routers!

WidgitMaster :)

mermaid1015
11-27-2006, 09:59 PM
Wow! Too cool for school. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. The pictures are great, too. Really helps us new old dogs to get the processes down.

mermaid1015

widgitmaster
11-27-2006, 10:00 PM
:)

azskies200
11-28-2006, 04:01 AM
I think this has been one of the most informative, threads on CNCZONE. Thank you for taking the time to not only share some truly creative ideas on making gantry style routing machines better but also for sharing your knowledge of machining through your photographs and explanations. I have read through every message in this thread and have come away with a greater appreciation for what may be soon a lost art in this country. Appreciate all your hard work.

widgitmaster
11-28-2006, 06:27 PM
Eric
Where do you buy your bearings from?

Vince

Vince, I get my 1/2" ID Ball Bushings "SUPER8" series and Thomson linear rails from Enco (http://www.use-enco.com/)

wcarrothers1
11-28-2006, 08:39 PM
That is a great run down of the T slot process..

I counted at least 12 full fledged "Dammit's" that would have happened to me while trying to do what you do making those...

So the question is how toxic is that mist?

b./

widgitmaster
11-28-2006, 09:05 PM
I use the synthetic type water soluable coolant for my spray mist!
Enco (http://www.use-enco.com/) part # 325-6565

According to the MSDS, its safe!
I use the same stuff for the flood in my Mill & my Lathe!
Soon, it will be used in my Surface Grinder too!

11 to go?

wcarrothers1
11-29-2006, 10:30 AM
by the dammit's I was meaning I would have screwed up that many things in such a step intensive operation..

Your power feeds sure must be getting a work out though.

I've got to get me a mist cooler though.. Course I have not had hardly any time to play with my 4x8 since making it let alone any time on my mill.

b./

project5k
11-30-2006, 10:13 AM
i had allways wondered what it took to make the t slots... i just figured there was an upside down t shaped mill that you ran through and it hogged out the material, i never knew it took so much..

widgitmaster
11-30-2006, 01:15 PM
Yes, T-Slots require two stages, 1st is to cut the slot, 2nd is to cut the T-Slot!

As you can see in the pictures below, there are several types of slot cutting endmills!

1st is a straight toothed Woodruff cutter, for use in fitting Woodruff keys in shafts.
2nd is the HSS 6-Flute staggered tooth T-Slot cutter. Excellent for cast aluminum.
3rd is the Cobolt 8-Flute staggered tooth T-Slot cutter, for use on steels and hard metals.

Well, the last picture is the last 20 peices I have made for the Mini-Routers, the Y-Axis bearing support plates, one has the 4-holes needed by the Nema-23 Stepper motors!

All the angles, bores, counterbored holes and dowel pins have been finished!

My little pile of Mini-Routers is finally starting to look like more than a pile of chips on the floor!

This was the best batch of end plates I have made so far, as I took the time to build a little fixture plate to hold them on their approporiate angles!
Sorry for not taking lots of pics during the process, but it slows me down and I have many more parts to make!

:)

project5k
11-30-2006, 06:07 PM
yea thats about whati figured that they'd look like... ok, so my next question is gonna show just how much i dont know about machining, but i'm gonna make a guess, and then if you will, tell me how wrong i am.. on the mills that you have pictured, there are little flats on the shafts... im guessing that thoes are some form of retention to hold the mill in a holder???
i dont yet own a mill, but i hope to be buying one inthe next week or 2 (im selling a house for my mother in law and should get a nice payday for my troubles) so im trying to learn as much as i can now so i can better choose a machine when the time comes....

widgitmaster
11-30-2006, 08:52 PM
Today I drilled and tapped all the end holes in the X-Axis slide blocks for the Mini-Routers, and rough drilled all the large side holes.

Next I setup the mill for boring the close tolerance holes for the Ball Bushings, fortunately I have a nice Bore Gage with a 2" dial and .0001" accuracy!

I also have a 50-millionths electronic micrometer, and have used it in the past to set the zero on the Bore Gage, but its too awkward to position the small contacts of the Bore gage on the little anvils of the micrometer! So I found time to turn a Master Ring Gage for setting zero on my Bore Gage!

The .500 Linear Ball Bushings require a hole that is .87440 diameter with a &#177;.0002" tolerance!

When I do really close bores, I take a rough pass with the boring bar, and then take a second pass at the same settings and speeds as the first. Then I get my measurement as accurately as possible, make my adjustments to the boring head and then take two more passes.

When set properly, I can do a rough and finish pass and get the bore to repeat within .0001 all day long! But whenever using instruments with .0001 accuracy, you have to keep them in the same room for a few hours so they all become the same temperature as the machines! The heat of your hand can throw off your readings really fast!

The skill is in the adjusting of the boring head, and sharpening of the boring bars!

Eric

50-millionths = .00005

ViperTX
11-30-2006, 09:04 PM
Eric....are you boring, setting, and adjust the boring head for each hole....or do you use a jig so you can rough bore everything and then move to the next step?

widgitmaster
11-30-2006, 09:07 PM
NO No!
I do one hole at a time, two passes and its done!
Then I move over to the next hole and do two passes.
That way the center to center spacing is as accurate as possible!
One block at a time!
Once the boring head is set, it does not change!

acondit
11-30-2006, 10:19 PM
Eric,

Do you drill a starter hole before using the boring bar?

Alan

widgitmaster
11-30-2006, 10:55 PM
Eric,

Do you drill a starter hole before using the boring bar?

Alan

Yes, I used a drill that was .050 smaller than my finished bore!
I should have stated that earlier, as I drilled them all first!
It makes the boring part much easier!
Eric

itz2k7
12-01-2006, 11:28 AM
Shalom!
I am watching this thread some 3000 Km away.,from Tel aviv ISRAEL
your shop is like surgery room all is clean painted white..I like and it tells evrything. I would like to ask you,
1 How do you make/check the parallelizm between the bores of the ball bushing?
2 How do you make shure that all the center to center dimentions of the ball bushing bores and the supporting bores of the BARS are the same or to what tolerance?
Do you make them together?
I LIKE very much your work and the way u presents your skill

itzik

widgitmaster
12-01-2006, 12:06 PM
Thanks Itzik!
When I first bought my milling machine, I spent extra money for a digital readout for the X & Y axis! It is a Mitituyo KA Counter, with a resolution of .0002" When I installed the DRO, I took extra care to dial everything in with a tenths (.0001") indicator, and as of today my mill is extremely accurate!
I have not seen a need to do extensive Quality Control of every part, as everything slides perfectly upon assembly! If and when the parts do not fit, then I stop to check where the problem is (usually in my math)!

The secret to getting the bore holes true and accurate is to do both of them before removing the part from the vise, as they will never return to the exact position if you do only one at a time! Also, the head on the mill MUST be trammed square and perpendicular to both X & Y axis, or all parts will have the same error in squareness!

So I use this procedure for all mating parts, and they all fit exceptionally well together!

The DRO was very expensive, but it was worth every penny!

Eric

widgitmaster
12-02-2006, 04:38 PM
Well, I finished all 20 bores, and made the bushing spacers on the lathe while the mill was boring holes!

Then I made a .040" internal grooving tool for the internal snap-ring that holds the bushings in place!

To do the internal groove, I'll use my Wohlhaupter (http://www.wohlhaupterus.com/) boring / facing head (bought used on eBay)! This boring head has the ability to auto feed sideways and shutoff at a predetermined setting! In this case, the groove is .040" wide, and .025" deep.

It takes a little time to get this thing setup, and I refuse to give a detailed seminar on how to use it! All I will say is it has stops, a tripp pin, two different engagement pins, and two knurled rings.

When the pins are set right, and the spindle is turning, and you hold the top knurled ring, it feeds sideways untill the stop hits the limit pin!

After a test run and assembly, the setup is good so I ran all 40 grooves! (4 per part, 10 parts)

widgitmaster
12-03-2006, 12:32 AM
Next, I need to put a 1.999" dia hole in the middle of the slide block, for the Delrin Acme nut to be pressed in!

I first drilled a 1/4" pilot hole, then I used a 1" dia drill. I ground a flat on the drill shank so I could put it in my R8 1/2" endmill holder with a set screw. This keeps the shank from getting all chewed up by drill chuck jaws!

Then I used a 1 1/8 2-flute end mill to enlarge the hole more. Then a 1 3/8" 6-flute end mill, and lastly I bored them to finish size!

I now have 10 perfect x-axis slide blocks!
Time to make some Delrin nuts!

vcooney
12-04-2006, 12:40 AM
Hey eric,
the stop bar you show in the photo...is the attached to the vise?
If so is it screwed in or clamped?

Vince

widgitmaster
12-04-2006, 07:05 AM
Hi Vince,
Actually it bolts on to the back of a Kurt Vise with two 1/2-13 SHCS
Here is the post I started when I made it!
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21841

Eric

vcooney
12-04-2006, 01:30 PM
Thanks Eric,
That's a tool I'm going to make as soon as I finish the fly cutter. The fly cutter is at our weld shop waiting to get welded...the welder said it's low priority he'll do it when he gets the chance. But thanks for all the tips and tricks you been posting.

Vince

BoxGods
12-05-2006, 03:54 PM
Widgetmaster,

Is there a way, and would it be possible, for me to send you a design I made for a 24" x 24" CNC router table? I understand your very busy and that a lot of people must ask for your help. I am not asking you to do my leg work for me, but maybe if you could have a look, you might (likely would) find areas that need to be changed.

I would also like a quote on machining the parts I need as I have called all the shops in my little town and they are reluctant to do anything non-automotive or outside their box. Frankly, you love what you do, and that shows.

I am 40 years old and serious about this project (aka not a kid with a short atention span) and have created a design in Sketchup that I would like to send to you.

Thank you for your consideration,

Gene

widgitmaster
12-05-2006, 11:21 PM
Widgetmaster,

Is there a way, and would it be possible, for me to send you a design I made for a 24" x 24" CNC router table? I understand your very busy and that a lot of people must ask for your help. I am not asking you to do my leg work for me, but maybe if you could have a look, you might (likely would) find areas that need to be changed.

I would also like a quote on machining the parts I need as I have called all the shops in my little town and they are reluctant to do anything non-automotive or outside their box. Frankly, you love what you do, and that shows.

I am 40 years old and serious about this project (aka not a kid with a short atention span) and have created a design in Sketchup that I would like to send to you.

Thank you for your consideration,

Gene


Thanks!
No problem, send it to me as an email attachment!
I have AutoCAD14 & 2000 to view CAD files, I hope it is compatible!
Eric

Jay C
12-10-2006, 11:48 PM
I too have to offer my kudos. But I wonder what the buyers of your machine are using it for and if there are any newer samples of it's use (aside from the ones mwalach has posted). By my count you have sold 8 and have 10 in progress correct?

Enjoying the craftsmanship and trying to come up with a need to satisfy the want ;)

Jay

widgitmaster
12-11-2006, 01:26 PM
Thanks Jay,
Yes, I have been working on ten new mini's, and the seal problem of the 12x12 routers, along with two cast-iron Mill T-Slot table, and 30 Miniature indicator adjusters!

I'm a multitasking one-man machine shop!
Today I'll put up the x-mas lights, and get my car worked on, so nothing will get done in the shop :eek:

Eric

widgitmaster
12-11-2006, 10:39 PM
Wow, I had no idea my Kodak Camera could do this!
Kodak EasyShare CX7330
Walmart $115 + Tax

It takes great digital pictures as you can see, but all the neet video's I could have taken!

Requires QuickTime viewer!

12x12 Router Project (http://widgitmaster.com/video/000_1032.MOV)

The video file is 2,430,735 bytes too!

Jason Marsha
12-11-2006, 11:20 PM
Great shot Eric, but why is the machine not moving?:)

We need to see some action:D :D

Jason

widgitmaster
12-11-2006, 11:21 PM
I just build them, I don't ever run them!
What fun would that be?

Jason Marsha
12-11-2006, 11:22 PM
Don't forget some action of your big mill creating aluminium swarf so we can learn your secrets of producing such fine workmanship.

Jason