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View Full Version : Attaching a spoilboard to the pro 4896 kit



zigmart
12-03-2013, 01:43 AM
How are people attaching the spoilboards to their pro kits?

vtx1029
12-04-2013, 02:17 PM
I don't have a pro kit but I used 80/20 t nuts and 1/4 screws.

CRP
12-04-2013, 04:36 PM
We have hardware and brackets for attaching spoilboards here: Fasteners and Brackets | CNCRouterParts (http://www.cncrouterparts.com/fasteners-and-brackets-c-43_36.html)

You could use these in a number of different ways, the easiest would be the Roll in T nuts in your 410-00 cross members and M8-16 bolts. You would counter bore the spoilboard so the fasteners would sit below the surface.

vbgraves
12-04-2013, 10:37 PM
Ahren's suggestion is what I did. I made my counterbores fairly deep (0.5" I think) so I'd be able to surface my spoilboard several times. My counterbores weren't quite large enough for M8 washers, which was my plan since I slightly oversized my thru holes. I've modified my program so my next spoilboard should accommodate washers.

Van

FoxCNC1
12-05-2013, 02:57 AM
Let me ask you this Vgraves, how think if your spoil board?
I was thinking of using 1/2" MDF and maybe C-boring 1/4". I am wondering how exactly are you using the machine to make the holes, are you doing one edge at a time and locating the holes at 20mm from the edge at a set interval ? (4" O.C)

Spk64
12-05-2013, 09:03 AM
I would use 3/4 at a very min. 1" or 1-1/4 is better.
Gluing 2 3/4" sheets together for 1-1/2" is also a good option.

1/2" will be flimsy and have very little life for surfacing.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

vbgraves
12-05-2013, 09:58 PM
Profoxcg,

The PRO4848 kits have 5 cross members, and I put 4 cap screws in each row. While the spoilboard for this size machine is smaller than a full sheet of MDF, the router can't reach all the hole locations in one setup, so I had to run two programs to get all the holes milled. Here's a DXF of my geometry.

Van

ecurb5
12-31-2013, 05:46 PM
My method is doing as Ahren suggested, t-nuts into the cross members (counter sunk), and I used a 3/4" piece of MDF. Then, I placed a 2nd piece of 3/4 MDF on top of that and screwed (counter sunk them too) it down to the one that is bolted to the cross members. It's the top piece that'll be surfaced and cut into, and at some point down the road I expect to replace it. I don't expect to ever replace the bottom piece.

kjk2002
01-01-2014, 10:51 AM
I mounted wood battens on the sides of the cross members. When I finally get the machine running, I will program to drill through those battens and then insert t-nuts from the bottom. Then I should be able to program a drill/countersink for the spoil board and mount it completely blind.