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View Full Version : Help with selector switch wiring issue (***actually a motor issue***)



BEDFORD
04-06-2006, 05:15 PM
Well We're blowing breakers after the motor (original motor with a properly rated and wired plug) runs for around 10 seconds and it doesn't quite sound right (yes there is oil in the head). The motor had previously been run with no problems. I had to disconnect the forward reverse selector switch to put it inside a sealed box.

My wiring was:.....11-U1(blue)....9-U2(red)...........10-R(white)....12-S(black)
.............................................5-Z2(orange)
.............................................1-V1(brown)
With yellow and green to ground.
(outside contacts are on the bottom with the selector facing forwards and contact screws facing up).

Have I made a mistake in my wiring diagram or is this something else? Thanks in advance for the help.
James

Edit: Well after futher research (pictures on IH site) I've found that the left side is fine. That cuts it down to either white (10-R) or black (12-S) on the right side should be on top. I'd rather not just guess. If anyone can pull the cover off and look or already knows that'd be great.

BEDFORD
04-07-2006, 11:20 AM
Can anyone just quickly pop the cover off of the motor selector switch and see if the top wires is black or white? I'd rather not have to make an educated guess on this.
Thanks
James
Edit: Well I called Aaron and left a message. I hope that this is as simple as a wiring issue.

KEYTEEM
04-07-2006, 12:25 PM
WHITE AND BLACK from the power source(230v), is what was connected
to my switch ,, as your looking at the switch from the top looking down
with the knob closest to you,,,
11 9 10 12
7 5 6 8
3 1 2 4
is what was on my switch, as your looking down on the switch you only
can see the top rows of terminals, i assume these would be
numbers 1 2 5 6 9 10/ the others being the bottom row of terminals/
3 4 7 8 11 12 ...
my switch had white , (from the 230v source), and black on
10 and 12 .
I am at work right now and can't remember if white or black was
on the top(10) or bottom(12). i have this info at home and will send it if needed

mcarvey
04-07-2006, 12:35 PM
On my machine the top wire is black, and I havent' had any problems. I've attached some pictures of the switch- hopefully it will help.

-Matt

BEDFORD
04-07-2006, 02:16 PM
Thanks for the help Matt and Keyteem. I find it interesting that our switches are the same but are actually a mirror image. The wiring and jumpers are the same but on opposite sides.

We bypassed the switch and tried running the motor just loose (not attached to gearbox) and it's drawing a very high current and really not sounding right. It's still blowing the breaker.

It appears we are having a motor issue. The wall socket seems to be putting out just over 200V but I don't think that the drop in voltage would be enough to cause that much of a rise in current. We are running two 15 amp breakers and the motor should not be pulling more than 30 amps from what I know. On start-up it should draw more than the motor is rated but it's taking a while to blow the breaker so it seems as though the start-up current spike isn't at fault.

Any ideas?
James

Runner4404spd
04-07-2006, 03:58 PM
it does sound like a bad motor. or a misalignment in the gears. take the motor off the head and try it without the gear box attached. if it still blows the breaker its the motor.

Al_The_Man
04-07-2006, 04:11 PM
Is this an AC capacitor start motor on this?
If so it sounds like the centrifugal switch is not operating properly, if it stays open permanently, it usually will not go into run, if it shorts together, then the start windings are in all the time and causes high current, if this is the problem, and you haven't already burnt the start windings, the switch can be replace by taking the end bell off of the motor.
Al.

BEDFORD
04-07-2006, 04:19 PM
Thanks for the help guys. Yeah the motor is still blowing the breaker even when it is not attached to the gear box and is running free. We're taking it over to a motor rewinding shop now. It was a puzzling problem as we had run teh motor before and the only thing that had changed was the switch being disconnected and put in a new housing.

We're all thinking along the same lines with regard to the start windings causing the high current because the centrifugal switch is not operating properly.
James