PDA

View Full Version : A fix for z-axis backlash on TAIG mills



Smertrios
03-31-2006, 12:21 AM
Origionally I assumed that z-axis backlash on my TAIG mill was at the nut. I took the head assembly apart and realized this was not true! The Z-axis endplate (red square in the pic) was not "tight" to the screw assembly which left .011 backlash on the Z. I took the nut off the screw assembly (red circle in the pic) and lightly tapped down a few times with a hammer and re-tightened the nut. Probably a no-brainer to alot of you but this was a source for many problems to me.

cartertool
03-31-2006, 04:08 PM
Yes, you need to make sure the leadscrew is against the bearing, not floating. You do want the slide to be loose enough that gravity takes up the backlash in the nut though.


Origionally I assumed that z-axis backlash on my TAIG mill was at the nut. I took the head assembly apart and realized this was not true! The Z-axis endplate (red square in the pic) was not "tight" to the screw assembly which left .011 backlash on the Z. I took the nut off the screw assembly (red circle in the pic) and lightly tapped down a few times with a hammer and re-tightened the nut. Probably a no-brainer to alot of you but this was a source for many problems to me.

pdxalz
11-18-2007, 09:00 AM
This was an old post, but it helped solve my backlash problem on the Z axis. The tapping with a hammer didn't seem necessary in my situation. All I needed was a little tightening of the nut (red circle in pic). I went from .009 backlash to a little more than .001

Thanks,

Al Z.

littleCNCjohn
11-10-2012, 07:14 PM
I was having trouble with backlash on my Y-axis and remembered stumbling on this post that talks about a loose nut on the z-axis being a potential source of backlash. So I decided to tighten the nut on my y-axis... Perhaps it shouldn't be surprising that my backlash reduced from over 0.004 to under 0.001! This seems to be an important thing to check for any axis with high backlash!

Thanks X1000 Smertrios!

-John

BAMCNC.COM
11-11-2012, 08:38 AM
Taig has videos on YouTube talking about this, they are hard to find so I... I mean B-Rad has a thread showing them all.

Also what have you done with your leadscrew nuts? I assume you've adjusted them too? If done completely right you can obtain less than .0005" backlash, if you have strong motors and good lube. I have a video showing it on my X axis.

Smertrios
11-11-2012, 01:21 PM
Excellent!

Menacer
12-11-2012, 01:14 AM
Yeah I'm getting sick of this type of connection and trying this out...
I got them form E-bay $6 or $8 and you need to cut the threads down on your screw to 6.30mm. This will fit the DSLS Stepper motors and Taig screws stock!

172711
172712

fretsman
12-11-2012, 04:52 AM
Link?

awerby
12-11-2012, 04:53 PM
They'll work for a while and then break. The stock Taig couplings are better. If you want to go with helicals, then get them in stainless.

Andrew Werby
www.computersculpture.com

Menacer
12-11-2012, 09:33 PM
The ones I have are hard anodized aluminum but I could see over time they could break ... I'll have to pick up some hi-quality ones after they no longer work. Here is the link I from E-bay there in the us and shipping is free!


1 4 Flex Shaft Coupling CNC 25" Servo Stepper Motor 6 35mm Coupler Black | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/140891658606?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)

fretsman
12-12-2012, 04:57 AM
Thank you-

Dave

BAMCNC.COM
12-12-2012, 09:58 AM
Those will break fast depending on your milling style, plus could incorporate minor backlash, grab it and twist on opposite sides. Stock is "way more better"

fretsman
12-12-2012, 11:16 AM
I personally am not using them for my Taig ;).

I actually like the setup that the Taig comes with, just have to make sure the gaps are just right.

Dave

Josfdph
12-24-2012, 12:11 AM
Excellent!