View Full Version : So, I fried my coolant pump (don't ask how...)...

06-01-2013, 02:47 PM
Now all my 120 circuits are dead - no coolant pump, lights, or lubrication pump. I can hear the relays turning on and off. I have misplaced my manual. Is there any reference? Any suggestions on what I need to look for? I assume it is a fuse or circuit breaker. The contactor at the main power switch underneath works fine, the machine works fine, just the 120v "features" are dead...

06-01-2013, 05:01 PM
Be careful there. All my "features" were 220 volt.

06-01-2013, 07:42 PM
Wow, I didn't even think about that... But at least the light was 120v as I used the original line to power a power strip, and that power strip to power my LED lights. No problem with them until this current (voltage) issue...

I totally fried the coolant pump by running it dry (new BobCAD CAM "defaults" to coolant on, but I haven't run coolant in a year, so it ran for quite a while before I found out what "that smell" was...). The lights and all were working at the time. I yanked the power to the coolant pump, and then the light went out as well. No other impacts on the machine at all, and I can't seem to locate a fuse or circuit breaker, but the machine is VERY close to the wall and it is hard to see in the back - that's why I am hoping someone can help me out...

06-01-2013, 10:40 PM
If you have the wiring/schematics of the machine it should be relatively easy to trouble shoot with logical tracing?

06-02-2013, 09:05 AM
As stated, I have misplaced my manual... Was hoping someone would post the schematics...

06-03-2013, 01:58 PM
Here you go.

06-03-2013, 06:56 PM

60 seconds after printing this out I had the blown fuse in my hand. Headed to RatShack to get a replacement.

06-03-2013, 09:03 PM
wOOt!!! :banana:

65 cent fuse and I am back to 100%! THANKS again!!!!!

06-04-2013, 11:40 PM
Here are the Mikini pinouts.

06-05-2013, 08:45 AM
Thanks again, SWATH. That helps, and may be enough, but I was hoping to get a screenshot off the computer of the Mach3 "Ports/Pins" settings. On thinking about it, I may have an old configuration file from Pre-SmoothStepper I can load up to check it.

The schematic here doesn't show the X++/X-- (and Y and Z), just "XHome". I know one is shared, and I suspect some of the pins are labelled generically... At one point both the -- and ++ for one of my axes were both on, so the machine was locked up. I think coolant got in to the sensors. So I have had them disconnected for a LONG time. I haven't run coolant in forever, so I plugged them back in to see if they would work, and I am not getting a fault, so I think they are. If I get them working right I plan to encase all around the cable entry in silicone caulk so that it will keep the water out better. I also like the Pogo pin idea that you (or was it slowtwitch) suggested, so I may look in to that route too.

I am surprised to see both the B and C axes in this pinout, though... I bought a new breakout board as I didn't think that beyond a 4th was included in the Mikini... That said, isn't there only one parallel port in the Mikini as well?

06-05-2013, 09:15 AM
Oh sorry I can get that screenshot tonight. The Mikini has two parallel ports on the front panel but only one has a cable hooked to it (coming from the PC). It is LPT1 or the main one on the right of the diagram I believe. LPT2 is not used.

06-05-2013, 11:02 AM
I built my own computer, so I only have the one port, though it is on the SS now. I have a second SS on the way to support my 5th axis. I do have all four axes controlled by the original SS right now.

06-05-2013, 06:39 PM
Hopefully these are what you are looking for.


06-05-2013, 08:42 PM
Yes, exactly... But now I am stumped... Your second screen is the same as mine, so the ++ and -- switches aren't routed through Mach... Odd... I don't know why my "Ref All" isn't working now....

06-06-2013, 06:26 AM
wrong thread

06-06-2013, 10:20 AM
Be careful there. All my "features" were 220 volt.

Yes I found this out the hard way. I hooked up the 120v bathroom ventilation fan to one of the aux supplies to help vent the way oil smell. It ran really fast for about 20sec., started smoking, then burned up.

06-06-2013, 10:29 AM
I also noticed that the installed florescent work light is literally falling apart. It appears the acrylic housing has been destroyed by coolant spray I guess but it looks likes it's been shattered even though I've never hit it. There are large shards of plastic just falling off of it so it looks like I'll be doing your LED lighting upgrade as well. Do you remember if the work light is 220v? I seem to recall it is.

06-06-2013, 11:09 AM
I think the LEDs take a wide range of voltage. i did confirm my AC is 220V, and the LEDs are still running fine.