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View Full Version : Mod-Kini part duex...controlling the 1610L with Flashcut



mechie
05-13-2013, 02:37 PM
It's been a long time since I had a chance to work on the mill, but I'll hopefully finish it this month. So far, I've found the Flashcut Mach 3 adapter won't work, since Mach 3 puts out a 2.5 kHz enable signal on pin 14 of it's db25 connector, while Flashcut puts out a steady 5VDC. The Flashcut controller can put out a PWM signal at 2.5 kHz to allow to work with Mach 3 compatible systems, but I need the PWM signal to control my spindle speed.

I am now going to bypass the Mikini main board entirely, and buy Flashcut's Pro-Series CNC Controller to run the mill. It's not cheap compared to the CNC4PC board, but it should have several advantages over the Mikini electronics, and I won't have to deal with Mach 3's quirks.

Flashcut's controller is supposed to have better stepper drivers than the Mikini's; maybe they will get rid of the awful resonance on the x-axis at around 9 ipm feed. Flashcut recommends using its stepper motors with its driver, but they are supposed to work with just about any stepper motor, so I hope the Mikini's are good enough. I considered changing them out for the Flashcuts, but that looks like a major p.i.t.a., especially on the z axis, which would involve removing the very-heavy-looking spindle column and retramming it.

I've mounted an large electrical enclosure for the Electrocraft spindle motor controller on the back of the mill, and am in the process of wiring it up to the spindle. I know several people are interested if the Mikini's spindle problems can be eliminated with an aftermarket spindle driver, so I will post my results as soon as I've had a chance. I believe I've found the Mikini spindle driver from China and was quoted a price of $105. My Electrocraft cost me a grand; we'll see if you get what you pay for...

-Mechie

slowtwitch
05-13-2013, 03:48 PM
Mechie, all the best of luck with your conversion..it sounds great. I'm at a crossroads with my conversion. I also have the Electrocraft controller (I need a picture of the internal switches...hint hint:) to see if it works ). But, I may try an AC motor that I aquired. I'll post a pic of it when i get home..

I'm also going to replace the steppers in my mill..(actually, I think they arrived today :) As you have said, the "Z" is going to be a bugger.

keep us posted

mechie
05-14-2013, 12:20 PM
The Flashcut controller arrives Friday:) I just got some new attenuation leads for my O-scope, so I can measure the voltage / speed ratios on the Mikini spindle driver to work as a starting point with the Electrocraft. I will post my results here when I get them.

-Pete, I sent you a private message regarding the jumper settings.

mcphill
05-15-2013, 03:59 AM
PLEASE keep us all up to date on this. I have been very interested in Flashcut for a long time, and tossing some AC servos on the Mikini would be awesome! The biggest "hitch" to me is getting the spindle working right... Do you know if there is a Flashcut driver that would be used to drive the BLDC spindle?

mechie
05-15-2013, 11:42 AM
Mcphill, I bought the Flashcut with the mini i/o add-on ( about $500 extra) to control an Electrocraft ACE 1300 BLDC driver. Flashcut has a system that will control servos, including the spindle BLDC, if you want to go that route (be prepared to spend at least $4500 for the system). I'd call them to see if they have Nema 34 servos that can supply 850 in-oz of torque, because there are none listed on their site. You may have to get another supplier's servos, but their system should work with them. Geez, I'm starting to sound like a salesman for Flashcut...I've never even used their stuff yet!:confused:

mcphill
05-16-2013, 03:29 AM
Don't worry about sounding like a salesman to me, I feel the same way. In my opinion the cost for Flashcut seems like an unbelievable bargain! Like you, I have never even seen it in person (much less used it!), but I do feel like I have been an "Evangelist": http://www.cnczone.com/forums/flashcut_cnc/140009-quite_surprised_little_discussion.html

mechie
05-16-2013, 11:33 AM
Took some voltage and o-scope measurements of the Mikini yesterday; I have to be careful because the voltage attenuation of my probes is not very high and I don't want to fry my o-scope and computer. Anyway, the voltage did not change much with rpm (actually it seamed to go down a little) when measured with my voltmeter. The O-scope signal was noisy, and I don't know what to make of it. I am just going to tune the system as it stands; I've got a cheap tachometer and a thermometer to make sure the motor doesn't go to fast or get too hot.

As a side note, my mill only works if I run Mach 3 with the smooth-stepper (without it, there is too much electrical noise in the system and the stepper motors jump position when I turn the machine off or switch to manual mode), but when I looked the incoming line voltage with my o-scope it was very very clean; any electrical noise in the Mikini is from the Mikini.

If all goes well I will hook up my Electrocraft motor spindle driver today and start tuning it. Mikini runs the hall effect signal cable right next to the motor's power cable, which is a big no-no. I know it is shielded cable and it may not have any effect on it, but I am going to run my cables separately if I can find an elegant way to do so.

mechie
05-16-2013, 07:24 PM
Well, I found out you can't turn on the Electocraft without plugging it into Flashcut to enable it, so no tuning today.:(

mechie
05-18-2013, 09:22 PM
Got the Flashcut controller yesterday; :rainfro: looking forward to hooking it up. BTW the Electrocraft controller recommends leaving it on all the time (or it will degrade the circuits) so I will have to hardwire it. The Mikini spindle seams a lot weaker than when I first got it; maybe it's because its driver is shut down every time the mill is turned off.

mechie
05-21-2013, 08:01 PM
Wired and jogged the 4th axis with the Flashcut today; it sounds smooth so that's good.

Here are the necessary parts:

4 conductor shielded 18 AWG wire, with integrated shield ground wire (this is probably standard). I got mine from a lighting store, as it is not carried at Fry's Electronics or at the local electronics store.

red butt splicers (22-18 gauge) available at the hardware store.

The Mikini steppers are wired as follows:

A- is blue wire
A is yellow
B- is greens the c
B is red

You have to open the Flashcut box and look at the drivers to find what pins you will have to solder to on the connectors they give you. I'm not much of a solderer, but I've found the little alligator clips that attach to a base ($5 at Fry's) are invaluable.
I set the Flashcut drivers to position "D" as the Flashcut " mp-3042-s" motor is the closest match to the Mikini stepper motor specs. I haven't played with the dip switches on the drivers yet.

I should have minored in mechatronics or gotten a EE degree; this would be a lot easier!

SWATH
05-23-2013, 09:18 AM
Yeah, you could say I'm interested in this thread.
185718

mechie
05-23-2013, 12:01 PM
...classic

mechie
06-07-2013, 08:20 PM
Here's a video of the of the modified electronics box on the Mikini:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGHikISueOQ&feature=youtu.be
Sorry, Morgan Freeman was busy so the narrator I got is a little nasally. Here is how I've rewired the mill to work with Flashcut. I now have to crimp / solder all the connectors, then I can finally start tuning the spindle motor.

By the way, Flashcut has three different jog speed buttons (i.e. slow, medium, fast) for each axis, which should really speed tool touch-offs and set ups.

Here is a 5 volt, 8 channel relay board you can find on Amazon for just over $12 http://http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-8-Channel-Relay-Module-Arduino/dp/B0057OC5WK/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hg_1
Unfortunately, instead of waiting for a 5v signal from Flashcut to run the coolant pump, etc. it puts out 5volts and runs the pump when that 5v signal is grounded. Since Flashcut initiates all signals to 0V (i.e. ground) when it is booting up, it would turn on all the pumps / lights, etc. until it is finished. To get around this, I'm wiring in some little reed relays (from Radioshack) for the pump channels so the signal won't be grounded (and turn on the pump ) until the Flashcut system sends a signal. If this is confusing, let me know and I'll go into more detail.

mcphill
06-08-2013, 10:10 AM
Awesome update, keep 'em coming!

slowtwitch
06-08-2013, 10:32 AM
I love this kinda of stuff !!!! Great update...as mcphill stated ..."keep 'em coming" :)

mechie
06-10-2013, 05:02 PM
Thanks for the encouragement guys!

I hooked up the Flashcut controller to the Mikini computer's USB port and it tripped my 30 amp GFCI which was not cool. I contacted Flashcut, and they recommended playing with some internal jumpers. I removed jumper JP86 and JP87 and now everything works (well I can jog the axes around which is all I've hooked up so far). All the axes seem to run smoothly, but I haven't done a whole lot of tuning. I'm just sticking with the original Mach 3 acceleration for now (50 in/s^2 for x and y, 35 in/s^2 for z). Setting the max jog speed to 200 ipm was pretty scary. The axes continue to move for a what seams like an eternity (but is probably only half a second) after you let go of the jog button. The three speed jog selection is cool, but I wish it was four speed (fast, medium, slow, last few tenth's creep) for indicating. I haven't hooked up the limit switches yet, so I am trying to be extra careful not to crash. I hope to finish wiring this thing tomorrow or Wednesday, depending on what outside influences (wife, kids, job interviews) come up.

datac
06-10-2013, 09:27 PM
Mechie,
Great to read of your progress with Flashcut. I am a convert since about 1998 !!! Once you get things dialed in, and as long as there is nothing in between Flashcut and your existing machine/interface to cause new quirks, you should fall in love with that Pro-Control..... They have some of the smoothest, quietest drives I have ever used. Sounds like you could tighten your accelerations up quite a bit if your getting a lot of run after releasing the jog. Note too that you have separate settings for jog and running in that regard. Its always best once you have run enough time to check for accuracy and repeatability at frugal rates, to follow their well defined guidelines in machine settings setup. Once you pinpoint your reliable maximums, you can back down to a super reliable batch of settings.

You can save settings along the way as "Setups" too, so you can perhaps have a few to choose from for different types of work.

mechie
06-11-2013, 02:15 AM
Thanks Chris. I will follow the recommended tuning guide after I've crimped and tested all my limit switches. Ron from Flashcut also recommended increasing my acceleration.

Although I wish the screen had a little more color to it (like Mach's) so far I like it better than Mach 3. I can't wait to be able to speed up / slow down feeds and speeds on the fly like a real CNC. The later non-lockdown versions of Mach 3 can do this, but they didn't play well with the Mikini, so I stuck with the lockdown version until I hit the wall of frustration with lost Z retracts that would ruin my parts and cutters. Mach has some cool features, but I don't regret kicking it to the curb in favor of Flashcut.

SWATH
06-11-2013, 01:56 PM
Any news on getting that spindle to work with the electrocraft driver?

slowtwitch
06-12-2013, 01:18 PM
Thanks for the encouragement guys!

I'm just sticking with the original Mach 3 acceleration for now (50 in/s^2 for x and y, 35 in/s^2 for z). .

Being that I'm just a simple old maintenance man, can you translate this to laymen terms (in/min) :)

mcphill
06-12-2013, 05:21 PM
Acceleration is how FAST you get to that in/min... You can get to 100 in/min (1.6 in/sec) in 0.1 sec, 1 sec, 2 sec, 3 sec... If you accelerate too fast, you will lose steps. If your systems runs very smoothly (due to drivers, high kernel rate, smoothstepper, etc.) you can often bump up your accelerations to take advantage of the smoother running underlying system. Higher acceleration means you get up to your feed rate faster, means overall your jobs run faster - even if the feedrates are the same.

slowtwitch
06-12-2013, 06:01 PM
I know about acceleration and all that stuff...it's just the formula (50 in/s^2 for x and y, 35 in/s^2 for z) got this old mans brain twitchy ...lol

mechie
06-12-2013, 08:57 PM
Finished (well hopefully) wiring all the Flashcut inputs. I had to rewire the E-stop button to make it work; it needs to be wired from the Flashcut input pin to input ground. Anyway, I hope to start tuning the spindle today or tomorrow.


Regarding acceleration in layman's terms, compare a VW bus to an AC Cobra: both will go 60 mph, but the Cobra will get there in 3 to 4 seconds, verses the eternity the bus takes to accelerate to that speed. If your travelling across the state on a freeway, it will take about the same time in a Cobra or a VW, but if you travel across the state via the backroads and have to stop and start at every stoplight you could get there a lot faster in a Cobra. The Mikini only has 16 inches of travel, so machining time is more dependent on acceleration (how quickly the table can change direction and get back up to speed) than raw speed. Flashcut's maximum feed rate is 500 inches per minute, or 8.33 inches per second; I don't want to run that fast and risk crashing into something.

mechie
06-16-2013, 05:27 PM
Finally was able to start tuning the Electrocraft spindle driver. :D I think I found Mikini's spindle motor on Alibaba dc brushless motor, View 12v brushless dc motor, Champion Motor Product Details from Yongkang Champion Motor Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com (http://champion-motor.en.alibaba.com/product/664665803-214735719/dc_brushless_motor.html), so I'm using it's specs to fill in some of the parameters I don't have. I know the Mikini motor is four pole, 1.8 millihenries inductance, 320 volts max (I'm guessing based on the mill's nameplate...Alibaba says 300V), 6000 rpm max, 1 ohm phase to phase resistance, BLDC three phase. To tune the Electrocraft Driver you have to enter a bunch of parameters like instantaneous peak current amperage and time. Based on the specs sheet for the 2012 Mikini it says it's putting out (instantaneous) 28 amps at 320 VDC or 12 hp, but I can only guess how long it can do that. I figure 100 milliseconds is long enough to go where the motor will not fault out or more importantly not be damaged (I may have to play with that parameter if the driver is too sensitive and starts giving false alarms). The Electocraft driver can put out 18 amps at 400V continuously (9.6 electrical hp) and 30 amps peak (16.1 hp) so I just have to be sure not to overheat the motor. The motor has a 190 degree (if I remember correctly) warning sticker on it, so I set that as the maximum temperature parameter to be conservative. I am planning to cool the motor will either a fan or squirrel cage blower I have laying around, but well see how hot it gets. The point of this exercise for me is not to mount the biggest, baddest motor on the mill, as that will just screw up the mill's spindle and linear bearings, but to have a motor and system that is reliable and actually putting out 3hp and 3 lb-ft of torque like the mill is supposed to. Allen and Pete are putting big honker's on their mills, and I'm sure they will work out fine as long as they are not overdoing the torque.

The Electrocraft driver will rotate the motor from like 2-300 rpm to tune it, but it won't let you put in much amperage, so I will have to figure out how to get it to play nice with Flashcut before I can do anything.


I will call Flashcut and Electrocraft Monday for help on getting the spindle driver to talk with Flashcut; right now I is kinda clueless on what to do.

mcphill
06-16-2013, 08:05 PM
I have been looking at other BLDC driver options. Can you list the reasosn why you picked the Electrocraft? Did you investigate other options (and why didn't you pick those?)?

mechie
06-17-2013, 01:13 PM
I have been looking at other BLDC driver options. Can you list the reasosn why you picked the Electrocraft? Did you investigate other options (and why didn't you pick those?)?

I chose the Electrocraft because it works with single phase 220 VAC, can use hall effect sensor feedback, and it is compatible with Flashcut's 5V TTL logic. I spent several weeks researching BLDC drivers, but I know I did not find all of them. It seems like they are all around $1000 new, or maybe you can find one on Ebay (Slowtwich found his Electrocraft on Ebay). BTW It took a month to get the Electrocraft after I ordered it.

mechie
06-19-2013, 08:05 PM
I am continuing to play with the Electrocraft but keep getting error codes, so I will have to contact their central office since my local reps are on the road. Unfortunately they are three time zones away so I will have to wait till tomorrow. I have been able to tune the velocity PID loop, and man, this thing can move. The tuning procedure runs the motor forwards and backwards and tries to match the input commanded velocity to the actual response. If you are too aggressive, it sounds like it wants to rip the teeth off the drive belt. The Electrocraft driver can control position, velocity, or current, and seems like overkill for a spindle...oh well! I just hope I can get it to work as intended soon.

SWATH
06-19-2013, 11:06 PM
Interesting, so the driver seems to really have an impact on the motor performance, at least in tuning. I hope you get it figured out soon. I'm dying to know if the BLDC motor setup is salvageable before I invest too much in the AC/VFD route. I already bought a motor and was going to order the VFD tonight but I may wait a couple of days.

mcphill
06-20-2013, 09:35 AM
I am really hoping to be able to do a controller-only swap, but it is very difficult to understand what exactly is needed to integrate nicely in to the Mikini electronics with the dearth of info we are provided... I sure do wish Phil were more open to helping his user base, rather than what seems to be actively keeping us from understanding the "lump" he provided...

mechie
06-20-2013, 09:48 AM
Interesting, so the driver seems to really have an impact on the motor performance, at least in tuning. I hope you get it figured out soon. I'm dying to know if the BLDC motor setup is salvageable before I invest too much in the AC/VFD route. I already bought a motor and was going to order the VFD tonight but I may wait a couple of days.

Hi Swath,

An electric motor isn't like a gas motor. In a gas motor, all the power comes from gasoline delivered by a little pump. To get more power OUT of a gas engine however, you put on a turbo, or raise the compression, et cetera; you usually don't need a bigger fuel pump. An electric motor is just a device for converting electrical energy into mechanical energy, and as long as it is kept cool, how much power it puts out is entirely dependent on how much you put in. It's like a toy electric car, if you add another battery (in series), the car goes a lot faster. You just have to make sure you don't add too many batteries or you will either melt the motor or strip the gears. The Mikini is the same, only I don't want to add more power as much as make it produce the power it is rated for, i.e. the power it is supposed to be making in the first place.

mechie
06-20-2013, 10:16 AM
I am really hoping to be able to do a controller-only swap, but it is very difficult to understand what exactly is needed to integrate nicely in to the Mikini electronics with the dearth of info we are provided... I sure do wish Phil were more open to helping his user base, rather than what seems to be actively keeping us from understanding the "lump" he provided...

I don't really understand a lot of Phil's secrecy, other than a liability issue (he's said many times that he has to be really careful with that, else he could be sued if a user modifies the machine and gets hurt). Flashcut provides almost component level details on their boards, and have internal wiring diagrams of their controller. Electrocraft is a little more black box.

I tried to control the mill with Flashcut using the parallel port that Mach usually uses, and Phil was very helpful in providing the pinouts so that I could get it to work. Unfortunately, Mach puts out a 2.5 kilohertz (or something like that) enable signal, while Flashcut puts out a steady voltage, so they won't work. You can wire Flashcut's PWM output to make this signal, but you need the PWM to make the spindle work, so that doesn't help. Anyway, if Phil won't let you know what signals are being sent to / from the motor driver, you can always find out for your self with an O-scope and a basic voltmeter. You can find an O-scope for $100 on Amazon, or get a used one on Ebay. It may be pretty simple, or it may be a p.i.t.a. Either way, finding a controller that works with that signal may not be easy (or maybe it is) I don't know. How much do you know about TTL logic or basic wiring? I know a little about both, but a lot more about TTL now then when I started this project.

mcphill
06-20-2013, 11:40 AM
I can scope it out and use whatever comes as inputs to a PIC and program whatever I want, but having to do all that takes time, which I am short on... I totally don't understand his liability fear, but that's his issue, so he can piss us all off by being paranoid if that's what makes him happy... Thanks for your posts, btw, can you post the parallel port pinout you got from Phil so we can all see it?

SWATH
06-20-2013, 11:40 AM
I understand, my curiosity comes from trying to understand what the bottleneck is. Is the driver not supplying adequate current/voltage/pulses/data/parameters etc. to the motor to get it to operate at its stated capacity, or is the BLDC motor technology at 3hp working correctly but simply unsuitable for machine tool use for cutting steel (low end torque)? If it is the first well then that can be fixed as you are attempting to do with a new driver that isn't crap, if it is the 2nd then a different technology must be supplanted.

I'm interested in torque, is the 3HP BLDC motor capable of putting out sufficient torque at lower RPM even with the best driver? If not I'm going to proceed with the AC conversion. If so, it seems like it would be a lot easier to just replace the crap Mikini driver.

Maybe Phil doesn't understand that sometimes too much safety can be dangerous. Like wearing too much armor will slow you down and expose you to more fire. Phil may have made his driver so "bullet proof" for fear of something dangerous or risky happening that he has made it virtually unusable and as a consequence forced users to dick with it to get it to work right thus increasing the level of danger and risk.

It reminds me of how laws are passed outlawing texting while driving in an attempt to lower road fatalities due to this idiotic and dangerous practice. The result is more texting while driving related fatalities. How is this possible? The "authorities" are stumped, how could an artificial restriction have such a perverse unintended consequence? Well when you make something illegal it doesn't prevent them from doing it it just forces them to try and hide it better. So people who text while driving began holding the phone lower so they wouldn't get caught doing it but this takes their eyes further off the road and thus increases the danger and consequently the number of fatalities. So of course the misguided idiots now need to add to the stupidity and pass a law making it illegal to hold the phone low or some such crap, or outright ban phones in cars.

mcphill
06-20-2013, 11:54 AM
My belief is that the motor will be fine, but the driver is crap...

mechie
06-20-2013, 01:00 PM
I understand, my curiosity comes from trying to understand what the bottleneck is. Is the driver not supplying adequate current/voltage/pulses/data/parameters etc. to the motor to get it to operate at its stated capacity, or is the BLDC motor technology at 3hp working correctly but simply unsuitable for machine tool use for cutting steel (low end torque)? If it is the first well then that can be fixed as you are attempting to do with a new driver that isn't crap, if it is the 2nd then a different technology must be supplanted.

I'm interested in torque, is the 3HP BLDC motor capable of putting out sufficient torque at lower RPM even with the best driver? If not I'm going to proceed with the AC conversion. If so, it seems like it would be a lot easier to just replace the crap Mikini driver.
.

The motor is rated for 3 ft-lbs of torque, i.e. you not going to be able to drive a half inch drill bit through steel with 3 ft-lbs of torque (well, not easily). Torque is dependent on current, and the Electrocraft Driver can put out more current than the Mikini's driver. Phil covered this topic in another post, but basically your accuracy goes up if you use a smaller cutter at a higher rpm and feed rate, than if you use a large cutter at a lower rpm and feed rate for the same MMR. If you want to drill a half inch hole in steel, you will need to drill a pilot hole first, or if its a shallow hole, you can just use an endmill and interpolate the hole. For those of us who grew up using a Bridgeport where you just put it in low gear and hogged out a big hole with a silver and demming bit, this sounds like a pain, but it is what it is. The Mikini is a lot more accurate than any Bridgeport that I ever used. If you mount a biq torquey motor on the Mikini, you will screw up the linear bearings in a hurry. As I write this post, I am waiting for Electrocraft to see if they know what is causing the error codes on my driver. I will will let you all know what she can do as soon as I get it to work.

mechie
06-20-2013, 01:10 PM
My belief is that the motor will be fine, but the driver is crap...

I got a quote for what I'm sure is the Mikini's motor with a driver for $500 from Alibaba, or $395 for just the motor, i.e. the driver is $105. The Electrocraft driver is $1000, has a five channel built in O-scope, has built in PID tuning, has motor temperature sensing (via coil resistance), and is fully programmable. I don't know what the $105 driver will do, but I am sure it's comparable to the Mikini's driver. In my experience, you usually get what you pay for.

mcphill
06-20-2013, 07:23 PM
3 ft-lb? Seriously? Where is that post?

mcphill
06-20-2013, 07:25 PM
And here is that post/reference...

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/mikinimech/144157-happy_new_year_mikini_mechatronics-post1046077.html#post1046077

mechie
06-21-2013, 05:12 PM
Well, I finally was able to run the spindle from Flashcut, but I'm still ironing out the bugs. I can only run the spindle near its max speed, which I set to 500 rpm so I don't mess things up. If I drop the Flashcut's PWM signal to a lower rpm, the Electrocraft fall out...hopefully this is just some parameter I need to tweek, like minimum rpm or something. I was on the phone with Electrocraft, and they helped a lot, but I still have a ways to go.

mcphill
06-21-2013, 05:17 PM
Maybe 500 rpm is as slow as it will go (likely not, but maybe?)? That is relatively slow. If you raise the max to 1000 rpm can you control down to 500?

In any case, when you are running at 500 is it a constant 500, or does it drop off every 15-30 seconds like the Mikini? That dropoff is what causes all the spindle faults for me - speed drops, so chip gets bigger since feedrate is constant, needs more torque due to bigger chip, spindle fault...

mechie
06-22-2013, 02:46 AM
The spindle will go down to like 1 or 2 rpm, I just set it to 500 for now because it's acceleration is extreme and I don't want to screw anything up. I'm having trouble with the driver accepting a PWM signal that registers below 4.3 volts on the voltmeter (but zero volts doesn't bother it). I'm going to look at my wiring again and see if I screwed up somewhere. Or maybe some parameter is off. I am waiting to hear what the guys at Electrocraft say Monday morning.

mechie
06-22-2013, 06:55 PM
For some reason the Electrocraft is putting out 0.5 volts on its PWM input (maybe it is supposed to?), but I was able to run the spindle from -3500 (i.e. CCW) to 5000 rpm (clockwise), all controlled by Flashcut using the analog 0-10 volt signal instead of the PWM. I want to see what going on with the PWM, since that is probably a more stable signal, but in the meanwhile, I'll take what I can get! Here's a video (sorry, no chips are flying yet; maybe if I get lucky I'll have time this weekend, but it's good to know hours and hours or research and weeks of work have paid off, not to mention a few grand's worth of dough):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-oAodcOhokM&feature=youtu.be

mcphill
06-22-2013, 09:17 PM
GREAT progress!

slowtwitch
06-22-2013, 09:33 PM
Looking good :)

mcphill
06-25-2013, 05:18 AM
Mechie, "stupid" question... Something in my brain recalls that the Mikini motor has only 1 Hall sensor... Is that right, or does it in fact have 3?

slowtwitch
06-25-2013, 05:51 AM
Mechie, "stupid" question... Something in my brain recalls that the Mikini motor has only 1 Hall sensor... Is that right, or does it in fact have 3?

mcphill. there are three hall sensors on the mounting ring :)