View Full Version : Crusader series M will not boot up pots problem?

12-13-2005, 03:53 AM
Can anyone help, my Crusader series m will not boot up, the screen remains fuzzy and nothing will move, I have been told that I must adjust the potentiometers on the controller cards, but does anyone have specific info, which pots and where to measure the voltage?, and what voltage?. Its had a job bolted to it for three years now with no progress and thats slow even for me!

12-13-2005, 01:15 PM
I have just purchased a Lathe off ebay with a Crusader M/L controller and the manuals are on the way.
My email is kiwiavi@xtra.co.nz. Will let you know when I get into running the machine.

Cheers Wallace

12-13-2005, 06:01 PM
I had a similar problem with my lathe a couple years back. Not sure its what you want to hear, but the conversion to Mach3 cnc fom the Anilam Crusader M/L went pretty smoothly using Rutex 991H analog drives.

Anilam was no help to me and no longer supports the Crusader products in the States, but I did manage to get prints of all the circuit boards. Mine was on a Condor 1600 Lathe but the control is the same as far as hardware is concerned. If you can't get them anywhere locally, I'd be glad to mail you copies from the US.

12-14-2005, 01:39 AM
Thanks for help so far, if either the manuals or the circuit diagrams give the settings for the potentiometers that should help, I dont know if I should consider upgrading as I am totally new to CNC.

03-04-2006, 02:12 AM
Hi, can you send a picture of what your screen looks like? When you power on the servo cabinet do you hear an audible " beep " when it resets???? When you say the screen is fuzzy is it out of focus or displaying gibberish?


03-04-2006, 06:10 AM
I have my machine almost up and running. The automatic toolpost is my last problem. I found many problems with the Anilam. Keyboard Key stuck, Screen wires corroded off, burnt tracks, AtoD Blown, encoders wired backwards, however it has been fun. I have all the circuit diagrams and am reverse engineering the Mitsubishi PLC Code to get the toolchanger working. I may be of help but post specific questions. Cheers Wallace

03-10-2006, 03:32 AM
Thanks for suggestions, having attempted to adjust the potentiometers the screen is completely dead, blank, and nothing happens whatever button I press on it, before attempting to adjust the pots it was fuzzy, so now its worse, is an upgrade the answer?, or control from a P.C. ?. Whatever I do its going to have to be pretty easy.

03-10-2006, 03:21 PM
Does the KBD bleep when a key is pressed. If so the internal PC (68000) may be running and you just can't see the picture. On starting the machine, it will bleep 5-10 sec later saying the 68000 is running. Does this happen ?

Also had a flakey CRT screen so I started to resolder all the connections on the CRT board and eventually came across a bad connection from the ribbon cable to the back of the CRT screen. It looked likes it must have got some moisture at some point as one pin was completely corroded off. Shortened the cable and resoldered and I was away. Removed several other components and cleaned up corrossion just incase. Cheers

03-20-2006, 09:12 PM
sounds like a bad power supply call this # 1 860 763 5366 ask for buzz he can get you parts ps i get nothing out of this just trying to help

01-11-2013, 10:16 AM
Know this is an old thread, but hope someone out there can still provide troubleshooting help for a Condor 1600 lathe with Crusader M/L control. I have received (full?) set of schematics from Anilam, but have no schematics for the Condor. It was working for the previous owner (bought at auction), then went down suddenly. Presumed to be a power supply, but haven't found if that is true or which one (+-15V supply is good). Mitsubishi PLC powers up, but gives a CPU error.

Any help greatly appreciated. Left a message at the number in the thread, but don't know if Buzz is still available at that number...

Russ Moore (moore.russ.d@gmail.com)

01-11-2013, 07:37 PM
The PLC will have to power up. Note The card racks are a bit rickety especially since they are 30 years old. Could be a card error for no start.

They are a headache to get going. Low coolant oil caught me for several days. There are a lot of voltages that need to be correct before it will work.

I removed all the boards, removed the plug in chips, washed and dried the boards and replace them all. Fortunately it works and has done so for 4 years.

My next one is a retrofit. The Anilam was just too complex.

PS I re-wrote all the PLC code to get it to work properly. Not something I would do again.