PDA

View Full Version : Warren's 1st cnc router log



WarrenW
11-25-2005, 03:19 PM
After weeks of reading and studying this web site, I have now begun building my first cnc router. The setup is based on the plans from www.hobbytoolplans.com but with a few changes. The plans had called for using all 8020 bearings on their extrusions. Because I was not so sure they would work well I had ordered a pair of supported shafts with Thomson open pillowblock bearings for the X axis. I decided to go with the 8020 bearings for the Y and Z axis. After receiving them in the mail and seeing how they felt on the 8020 extrusions, I was very impressed! They moved nicely with no play in them!

The router will have a 52" X axis, 48" Y axis and the Z axis is about 6" I think. I am using the Xylotex 3 axis controller with their Nemo 23 276oz/in. motors. The Ab nuts are from Dumpster and using 1/2-10 acme for the leadscrews along with McMaster lovejoy couplers.

Below are some pics of some parts. I'm about to cut the wooden pieces and start the assembly tonight and tomorrow with more pictures to go.

Wish me luck! :cheers:

Warren

Jason Marsha
11-25-2005, 06:48 PM
Congrats on your start :D . Remember to get some sleep. Double check your measurements and save yourself the stress of mistakes.

Jason

ViperTX
11-25-2005, 09:44 PM
Good luck Warren! Those 80/20 linear rub blocks....Oh, sorry linear bearings are only useful as guides, let us know how it turns out.

WarrenW
11-25-2005, 09:47 PM
If it turns out that they bind up or don't move as well as needed, I'll modify the machine with some THK rails or something. Hack told me they will work fine for this machine and are precise enough for wood which is all I am doing. I'll be sure to post my results though!

Warren

Evodyne
11-25-2005, 10:19 PM
Warren,

Just a reminder of the rules:

1. Post lot's of pics!
2. Have fun!
3. If you have a "signifigant other", make sure to compensate for the extra
time spent building and do stuff with/for your partner so as to stay out of
the dog house! Maybe promise to make nice things when you're done.

Good luck!

Evodyne :)

WarrenW
11-25-2005, 11:17 PM
Thanks for the tips! My wife is out of town for the weekend so I'll be doing as much as I can tomorrow (Saturday). I plan to attach the linear shafts to the extrusions for the X axis and cut/attach the end plates as well. I'll post pics of that tomorrow afternoon.

Warren

truman
11-26-2005, 12:25 AM
Hi Warren I was wondering where you purchased your supported shafts this seems to be my biggest hang up I am building a router that will be 60"X36" hence the need for supported shaft. By the way I can't wait to see the rest of your build have fun.

thanks

Rob

WarrenW
11-26-2005, 12:31 AM
Hi Rob,

I got them off of ebay. The seller actually has another set forsale right now. The title of the item is:

4 Thomson Bearing Pillow Block Slide Linear THK NSK

There is 16 hours left on it if you want to watch and bid. Before he had a Buy It Now offer for $150 which I paid. I really wanted to have the linear shaft supported if I was to use shafts. Too many people advised of the flexing without them being supported.

Let me know if you have any other questions. I'll be posting every day while I work on the router.

Warren

WarrenW
11-29-2005, 01:12 PM
Over the weekend I got the linear shafts mounted to the 8020 for the X axis. They are 53" long and supported so I don't have to worry about any flex now.

Today I cut the X axis end plates and bolted them together shown below. Next I will put on the cross members between the bearings and then start on the Y axis end plates. Its coming along!

Warren

WarrenW
11-30-2005, 09:45 PM
I added the cross members that the X axis leadscrew will be attached to. I couldn't bolt the pillowblock bearings to the 8020 cross members so I used a piece of wood to screw the bearings to and then drilled holes in it and used t-bolts to the 8020. I then cut and bolted one side of the gantry on. I would have had the other side but I drilled the holes wrong - thats what I get for working too late!

Tomorrow I'll put on the other side of the gantry and bolt in the two 8020 pieces with its bearings for the Y axis. The rest will have to wait till the next day since I'm taking my two boys and daughter to see Santa at the mall tomorrow afternoon!

Warren

joecnc2006
11-30-2005, 11:28 PM
looking very nice so far...

truman
12-01-2005, 12:45 AM
I don't know if you have more 8020 but if you have enough you could cut down the two pieces that you have there and put two end pieces making a complete rectangle then you could attach the gantry sides with more tslot bolts making it really solid I think this would also get rid of the wood on the bottom just a suggestion looks good the way it is though

WarrenW
12-01-2005, 01:11 PM
I got both sides of the gantry attached and also the Y axis 8020 as shown below. The 8020 bearings are also put on. For anyone who questions these type of bearings, all I have to say is they are tight but move smooth. I don't have any play in them. These are brand new also so that may make a difference.

Next I will be assembling the Z axis. Then install the bearings and leadscrews.

Warren

joecnc2006
12-01-2005, 02:16 PM
Just wondering if doubling up on the wood. if it would make it stiffer and not alow and movement side to side on the gantry.

Joe

WarrenW
12-01-2005, 11:19 PM
I actually thought about that but its pretty stiff now especially since I have the Y axis 8020 added. When I start cutting will tell though.

Warren

WarrenW
12-09-2005, 02:13 PM
I have all of the mechanical parts done almost. I do have to add the top 8020 pieces above the X axis so I can have a cutting surface. But I have the leadscrews and motors mounted. Today I'm going to study the docs and materials that came with my xylotex 3 axis setup for the wiring so I can see this thing move. Again, the whole design is credited to Dan at www.HobbyToolPlans.com. He's been a great help and the plans he offers are super!

Warren

WarrenW
12-21-2005, 03:26 PM
I've got it running finally! I had made some posts in other areas asking for help with the Mach software and my Xylotex controller and everyone helped alot to where its moving!

Below are some pics of it now. I still have to add the 8020 along the top of the X axis. I've just delayed in that because I hate tapping those threads by hand! But am going to do it today. I also have to cut the router mounts which is easy.

This is running with a 3 axis Xylotex controller and Nemo 23 motors that I got all from xylotex.com. They helped me alot as well.

The plans for the router are from HobbyToolPlans.com - great place with very easy to understand plans with drawings, pictures and explanations on every page. Thanks Dan!

Thanks Ger21, Joe and everyone else! I still have to see it cut but I think its there now. I ran some wizards in Mach 3 and it moved like it was suppose to.

I'll make posts of my first cuts and also put up some videos as well.

Warren

WarrenW
12-21-2005, 03:29 PM
Btw, I was going to Home Depot to get the Dewault router trimmer today thats about $100 but my wife spent $237 at WalMart today on just food and stuff so looks like I'll have to wait a couple days... Wife and three kids come first! :)

Warren

joecnc2006
12-21-2005, 03:58 PM
Btw, I was going to Home Depot to get the Dewault router trimmer today thats about $100 but my wife spent $237 at WalMart today on just food and stuff so looks like I'll have to wait a couple days... Wife and three kids come first! :)

Warren

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00917511000

Joe

WarrenW
12-21-2005, 04:09 PM
Actually I meant a Porter Cable router. I see they have a trimmer model 7310. Then they have a router model 690 or something like that. Does anyone have experience with these? All i mainoy want to do is cut 1/8" birch wood into shapes. And what type of bit is used for this?

WarrenW
12-21-2005, 04:25 PM
I think Dan is using the 7310 Porter Cable on HobbyToolPlans.com. Thats probably the one I'll pickup.

WarrenW
12-21-2005, 04:29 PM
Btw, I am getting about 30 IPM on my machine. How does that sound?

damae
12-21-2005, 07:52 PM
Btw, I am getting about 30 IPM on my machine. How does that sound?

First, I just found this thread today and I'm impressed with how fast you're getting everything together!

30 IPM is pretty impressive for those little xylotex motors!! I'm using the same stepper motor/ driver kit that you have to drive a test fixture. When I read your first post in this thread, I started to worry they wouldn't be powerful enough. And then I caught up to your latest post -- 30 IPM!

I have the 0690 router, but haven't installed it on a machine yet. Unless you're going to run 600IPM, the routers you're looking at will hardly strain to cut 1/8" birch!

ger21
12-21-2005, 10:07 PM
30ipm is pretty slow, and iseally you'll want a slower spindle speed to prevent or minimize burning. Slower speeds are much quieter, too. Here's a pretty good deal for a variable speed router with good power. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZZWXI/qid=1135220723/sr=1-4/ref=sr_1_4/103-4028383-8521422?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=228013

Madclicker
12-21-2005, 10:31 PM
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00917511000

Joe

This is a funny coincidence!

I went to Lowe's today to get material to hook up my new HF dust collector and stopped by the Sears repair/recondition outlet and snagged a similar router for $29.88. 2 hp and VS with dust port. Knew it was good...just didn't know how good.

spalm
12-21-2005, 10:59 PM
Anyone ever tried one of those Hitachi routers? Price seems to good to be true. But they are a reputable company.


I just got one of these Bosch recons. 2 1/4hp, quiet, variable speed, magnesium case, 1/2" collet. I really like it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Bosch-Variable-Speed-Router-Recon-1617EVS_W0QQitemZ7572217510QQcategoryZ20781QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Steve

yukonho
12-21-2005, 11:12 PM
You can do far better than 30 ipm with the xylotex and those steppers. I rapid at 80 (over 100 on the diagonal) with 24V supply and 3/8-12 acme leadscrews with the xylotex board and 128 oz in steppers. What software are you using, mach 2 and 3 is what I am using.
colin

WarrenW
12-22-2005, 08:20 AM
I'm using Mach 3. 30 IPM seems okay for me but I'll know when I actually start cutting this week. I have my xylotex set to 3.5V for each axis so I can't increase that anymore. It may be a setting in the software to tune it for faster movement. Anything that is faster and more precise than using a scroll saw is good to me! :)

As far as routers, I didn't know you could mount a larger router like these mentioned above on the setup. I'll probably stick with the porter cable 7310 just for cutting 1'8 inch birch. The great thing about Home Depot is you can always return! :)

WarrenW
12-22-2005, 08:29 AM
What type of bit is used for cutting in wood like cutting through 1/8" birch sheets?

Thanks!

WarrenW
12-22-2005, 01:24 PM
I just got back. The only router I really liked was one of the Porter Cables but it was alot of money. I decided against the trimmers and your right on the variable speed. I don't want to burn the wood. I found a Hitachi 2-1/4 HP router at Lowes for $115 and its variable speed. So I got that one.

I wasn't sure what bit to get so I got a straight cut 3/16" bit at Sears. I'll let ya know how it goes.

Warren

joecnc2006
12-22-2005, 04:29 PM
I just got back. The only router I really liked was one of the Porter Cables but it was alot of money. I decided against the trimmers and your right on the variable speed. I don't want to burn the wood. I found a Hitachi 2-1/4 HP router at Lowes for $115 and its variable speed. So I got that one.

I wasn't sure what bit to get so I got a straight cut 3/16" bit at Sears. I'll let ya know how it goes.

Warren

Do you have the model number i want to check it out Hitachi is a descent brand. Going to buy a router today.

Joe

WarrenW
12-22-2005, 04:32 PM
You can go to Lowes.com and enter: hitachi router

And this is one of them:

Hitachi
Variable Speed Fixed Base Router

Item #: 118359 Model: M12VC
$114.00

I liked that once I took the base off, it looked like it would be easy to mount also.

More specs from the site:

Powerful 11 Amp, 2-1/4 HP motor to cut through tough hardwoods
2-stage motor release clamp for accurate depth adjustments and base changes
Electronic speed control maintains constant RPMs even as load varies
Nickel plated motor housing for smooth depth adjustments


• See Our Rebates
Horsepower: 2-1/4
Amps: 11
No-Load Speed (RPM): 8,000 - 24,000
Depth Capability: 2.6"
Type: Fixed
Max Collet Capacity: 1/2" and 1/4"
Weight: 7.3 lbs.

WarrenW
12-22-2005, 04:34 PM
Also, it was in a regular brown box so it doesn't jump out when you look below for one in the box. I almost missed it thinking they were out of them.

joecnc2006
12-22-2005, 05:30 PM
I called and the lowes by my house has 6 in stock, so guess where i'm going after work, I like it because of the 11amps and down to 8,000 rpm.

ger21
12-22-2005, 06:54 PM
Anyone ever tried one of those Hitachi routers? Price seems to good to be true. But they are a reputable company.

I know someone with an older Hitachi 3HP plunge router, and he says it's a great router.

ger21
12-22-2005, 06:58 PM
Warren, Make sure you use carbide bits, HSS won't last long at all. I buy a lot of bits from Eagle America.
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_102-0102

Spiral bits will cut faster and quieter.
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_106-0202

WarrenW
12-25-2005, 04:44 PM
Hey Joe, did you pickup that router? Or choose another? I just made the mount for the router. Like many of them, I like the smooth round case of the router once the base is removed - makes it easy for mouting. I went to bolt mine on today but the bolts I have are 1/2" too short so it will have to wait till tomorrow since no one is open on Christmas. Thats alright anyways... I'm so tired from opening and putting together all my kid's presents Santa brought them!

Warren

joecnc2006
12-25-2005, 07:11 PM
Hey Joe, did you pickup that router? Or choose another? I just made the mount for the router. Like many of them, I like the smooth round case of the router once the base is removed - makes it easy for mouting. I went to bolt mine on today but the bolts I have are 1/2" too short so it will have to wait till tomorrow since no one is open on Christmas. Thats alright anyways... I'm so tired from opening and putting together all my kid's presents Santa brought them!

Warren

Yes I got it, Looks like it will work very well, thanks again, At 8,000 prm it is super quiet, and full speed 24,000rpm it is slightly queter than my rotozip.

Do you have pictures of you mounts?

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=124300#post124300

WarrenW
12-26-2005, 05:43 PM
I got my router mounted and made my first cut today! I ran the circular pocket wizard in Mach 3 that cut both these holds shown below.

I have to find a better way to hold down the wood so the gantry does not hit anything. I don't want to put a bottom sheet under because all of my work will be cutting through 1/8" birch and other wood.

Hack
12-26-2005, 06:22 PM
Warren,

Congradulations on getting it working. It appears as though you did an excellent job!!!

Dan
www.hobbytoolplans.com

joecnc2006
12-26-2005, 09:42 PM
I got my router mounted and made my first cut today! I ran the circular pocket wizard in Mach 3 that cut both these holds shown below.

I have to find a better way to hold down the wood so the gantry does not hit anything. I don't want to put a bottom sheet under because all of my work will be cutting through 1/8" birch and other wood.

Nice work, I used two holders to makesure the router did not move.
One sugestion is to use a cutting top that way no dust or shavings will fall on your lead screw and causing possible problems later on.

WarrenW
12-28-2005, 03:11 PM
Hey Gerry,

On the router bits you suggested from Eagle America, what cutting diameter do you suggest? It seems I want to get as small as possible because I am cutting letters and shapes in 1/8" birch wood and I want any corners and cuts to be as precise as possible.

From the two links you gave me, I would think the spiral up-cut bit would work best. Am I right? And can i use a 1/8" bit? Sorry, I'm just not familiar with all the bits for cutting like I am. Right now I have a 3/16 straight 1 flute bit that I bought at Sears.

Thanks!

Warren

ger21
12-28-2005, 04:12 PM
Yes, I'd try the 1/8" spiral upcut. You might want to try a downcut, it will leave a cleaner top surface, as upcut spirals tend to fuzz the edge. If you use a downcut bit, though, try not to plunge straight down, or it will burn easily. Either enter the material from the side, or ramp into it. Try to keep the feedrate as fast as you can, and start with a rpm around 12-15K. You may be able to go even slower with the rpm, but don't go any higher.

joecnc2006
12-28-2005, 04:52 PM
Hey Gerry,

On the router bits you suggested from Eagle America, what cutting diameter do you suggest? It seems I want to get as small as possible because I am cutting letters and shapes in 1/8" birch wood and I want any corners and cuts to be as precise as possible.

From the two links you gave me, I would think the spiral up-cut bit would work best. Am I right? And can i use a 1/8" bit? Sorry, I'm just not familiar with all the bits for cutting like I am. Right now I have a 3/16 straight 1 flute bit that I bought at Sears.

Thanks!

Warren

Don't forget to get the collet adapter for a routher unless you use 1/4" shank 1/8" 2 flute up spiral bit.

ger21
12-28-2005, 05:36 PM
The ones he's talking about are 1/4" shank. Almost all wood cutting bits are 1/4 or 1/2 shank. It's the metal endmills that are usually smaller.

spalm
12-28-2005, 11:24 PM
Warren,

“I don't want to put a bottom sheet under because all of my work will be cutting through 1/8" birch and other wood.”

Do you always plan on working without a bed (or backer board, sacrificial board, bottom sheet)? I don’t think this is a good idea for at least three reasons:

The first is flex. You will get more accurate cuts if the board you are cutting is supported.

The second is a backer. Just like when you drill a hole, you always put a scrap underneath to reduce chipping. You will get cleaner cuts.

The third is it will allow you to cut smaller pieces by attaching them to it. Without it, you are limited to 24” boards.

I sheet of MDF is cheap and easily replaced when it gets too mucked up. Just set your Z depth to barely over 1/8”. If you get to the point where both sides are so messed up, you can reward yourself with a new one. It will take a lot of cutting to get there.

(Boy, you have a long tongue and skinny arms)
Steve

WarrenW
01-04-2006, 12:44 PM
Yeah, I guess I will have to put one down. I'll make mounts for it where I can easily change it out for a new one.

Hey Joe, did you mount the Hitachi router yet? I used mine some and works GREAT! But I only had one router mount on there and it broke. And it wasn't cut just right either. So I just ordered a new aluminum one just for this Hitachi router from k2cnc.com. It was $54 with shipping but it won't break and the router will fit just right. I should be back up and running by Friday. I'll post some pics of it then too.

Warren

joecnc2006
01-04-2006, 01:06 PM
Yeah, I guess I will have to put one down. I'll make mounts for it where I can easily change it out for a new one.

Hey Joe, did you mount the Hitachi router yet? I used mine some and works GREAT! But I only had one router mount on there and it broke. And it wasn't cut just right either. So I just ordered a new aluminum one just for this Hitachi router from k2cnc.com. It was $54 with shipping but it won't break and the router will fit just right. I should be back up and running by Friday. I'll post some pics of it then too.

Warren

Yes this is what i made and it works great, you really should use two supports to keep it from tilting on you.
you should have told me i can give you the g-code for it.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=124300&postcount=87

Joe

WarrenW
01-05-2006, 09:07 PM
I got my new router mount in today. Its great especially being all aluminum. Thanks for the gcode offer Joe but I don't have another router to cut it with. :)

Here are some pics of it mounted. Now tomorrow I can try to cut again and figure out what I'm doing!

Warren

santiniuk
01-05-2006, 09:32 PM
Very nice combination of materials.

Well done !

(Built in record time too.)

abomb55076
02-19-2006, 09:32 PM
I was woundering, have you had any problems with those 8020 berings, would you recomend them or are they too tight and may run out the steppers after a while because of the tightness?

WarrenW
02-19-2006, 09:38 PM
Mine are doing just great! I was cutting with my router today. Here is what I did. When I got them they were brand new. When I put a bearing on the 8020, it seemed a tad tight. So when I put it on again, I kind of pushed it towards the side that was tight and it actually shaved some of the bearing material off to help it loosen up. But its not loose where you can feel any tolerance in it. They are tight and slide easy now. As long as the 8020's are lined up, they don't bind up or anything. I was worried about the same thing but still going strong.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Warren

WarrenW
03-26-2006, 11:21 AM
I am selling this router with everything including the controller, motors, router, etc. (not the computer) I have Mach 3 and SheetCam with it. The router is 45 1/2" Y and 56 1/2" X in size. It works great!

I have a little over $1400 in this setup but will consider all reasonable offers or trade for something of equal value. I will be posting this in the classifieds now but thought I would mention it here. Please email me directly at tybeeware@aol.com if interested. I am located in Savannah, Georgia since this would be a pickup only.

Thanks,

Warren

bkinman
04-05-2006, 01:50 AM
aww. selling so soon? why?

THend
04-28-2006, 11:04 PM
you have email

bedii
04-01-2007, 01:41 PM
Out of curiosity, does anyone know what happened to hobbytoolplans.com? Tried to go to it for further info on the plans that were used here, and got a placeholder from someone looking to sell the domain...

Hack
04-01-2007, 01:47 PM
Yep, I know. I Took a new job working 60 hours a week and haven't had a chance to properly support existing plans or develop new ones so I closed down the site.

Dan (Hobby Tool Plans)