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anthropod
02-16-2012, 03:39 PM
After getting great feedback from CNCZONE folks on what direction I should go with my first CNC Router, I decided on the Xzero ViperXZ 30x24.

After pestering George with a bunch of noobie questions,

I ended up making an order for:

ViperXZ 30x24
8080 Profile
8" Z Axis
Machined Table Top
Thomson Rail Upgrade
Hitachi Mount
Cable Chain
5 Proximity Switches

I currently have on Hand:
48V 7.3A Power Supply
Gecko G540 Driver
3 380 oz Steppers
Cables/Connectors/etc for said steppers
Computer (Currently runs a little lathe conversion)
Hitachi M12VC
1 home Built Table

What I don't have.

1. Software...ugh This is going to be tough. I have Mach3 for my lathe, but I have no CAM software. I use google sketchup for my CAD, but I may need something different. Any advice will be considered! :)

2. Bits...This one is very confusing to me. I have had some help from another post on this site, but I am still deciding what my first few bits are going to be.

3. Work Holding stuff/spoiler board. etc.

4. Working stock. Wood, Plastic, etc.

So I begin my experience log with the home built table.

http://www.the-martins.net/forums/ViperXZ_Table1.jpg
The Wiener dog was a fine assistant.

http://www.the-martins.net/forums/ViperXZ_Table2.jpg
I didn't have a big saw to cut up the 4'x8' piece of 3/4 inch plywood so I had Lowes cut it. It wasn't quite square, but close enough for the table. Oh well.

http://www.the-martins.net/forums/ViperXZ_Table3.jpg
I kind of overkilled it with the stainless screws and all the glue. Oh well.

http://www.the-martins.net/forums/ViperXZ_Table4.jpg
Getting it level on a floor that wasn't level was fun. I took a hand planer to the feet.

BanduraMaker
02-16-2012, 04:26 PM
1. Software...ugh This is going to be tough. I have Mach3 for my lathe, but I have no CAM software. I use google sketchup for my CAD, but I may need something different. Any advice will be considered! :)


First thing you have to establish is budget. There are options to fit every budget. Obviously, the lower the budget, the smaller the feature set is going to be.

Next is what you want to do. e.g. if you're a sign maker, you'll go a different route than if you're making 3D parts.




2. Bits...This one is very confusing to me. I have had some help from another post on this site, but I am still deciding what my first few bits are going to be.



What bits you need are driven by what you're trying to accomplish. Give some examples of what projects you want to do and we might be able to suggest some tools (and CAM software too)

anthropod
02-16-2012, 04:42 PM
1. CAM Software: I would love to keep it under $1,000.00


Small Signs might be in the mix. Im not a fan of the paper signs taped on the wall. I have a lot of those here at work and would love to replace the important ones with nice looking ones. Didn't really think about signs until now.

Lithophanes are something that really intrigue me.

Really, I am looking to make RC helicopter parts. Some 2D Cutouts, Some 3d Stuff.

2. On projects, I guess the place to start would be Nylon cutouts & Lithophanes.

This is an example of a type of part i would like to cut out.
http://www.the-martins.net/forums/part1.jpg

BanduraMaker
02-16-2012, 05:28 PM
Now we're getting some where. What you've got there is basic 2.5d stuff.

Although I don't have any personal experience with it, Cut 2D from vectric will fit half of the bill: Cut 2D - Overview | 2D Hobby CNC Machining | Contour machining | Text Engraving (http://www.vectric.com/WebSite/Vectric/cut2D/c2d_index.htm) and it's about $150. This one has a trial that will post code.

I use visualmill 6 which for about $1000, get's you some of everything. It has a pretty comprehensive set of 2.5D machining strategies including V-carving for signs and a set of basic 3D features. VisualMill CAM software package - Computer Aided Manufacturing CAM software for mold, die and tooling, wood working, rapid-prototyping, general machining. (http://www.mecsoft.com/visualmill2012.shtml) If you look around, you can find it for I think $850-ish from a reseller.

A friend uses Bobcam which is also sub $1k and apparently they will keep dropping price until you can't refuse. My friend is pretty satisfied with it but for some reason, some of the files made in bobcam cause my machine to lose steps at speeds that are totally safe with code made in VM6.

To create parts like that pick up three or four 1/8" square end mills. To diversify a bit, pick up a 1/4" square, 1/8" ball and 1/4" ball.

Don't expect to have fun cutting CF with anything.

theremin
02-16-2012, 06:45 PM
For the kind of thing you're wanting to do, it's really hard to beat Vectric VCarve Pro. It's 2.5D Cad/Cam in one, and has really good V carving capabilities for making signs and whatnot. The Vectric folks give very good support too. It costs about $600, but you can download a fully functional trial version. Here's a link: VCarve Pro (http://www.vectric.com/WebSite/Vectric/vcp/vcp_index.htm)

Dave

anthropod
02-16-2012, 08:05 PM
Thanks for the great software suggestions. I looked at all of them briefly, and they all have free demos. I know what I'm going to do this weekend.

gio666
02-17-2012, 02:17 AM
I think your going to have to add a shelf under that to hold machine from moving stand

gio666
02-17-2012, 02:43 AM
There also artcam express .CAD CAM Software Solutions - Delcam (http://delcam.com/)

anthropod
02-18-2012, 05:39 AM
Thanks for all the public/private feedback on the CAM software.

I have downloaded all the free trials/demos and I am starting to play.

I will post back my impressions of each from a novice perspective.

http://www.the-martins.net/forums/camtrials.jpg

PS... Great idea on the table shelf. I think that will decidedly make it more rigid, and give me a place to put my material stock. I'll see if I can get that done today or tomorrow.

azam1959
02-19-2012, 08:18 AM
Hi,

I had few specific requirements and I followed the same path few months very recently and decided to go with Autocad Inventor for CAD. Lot of free tutorials and I like the Inventor book by Curtis Waguespack. Autocad Inventor is free for students. I also played with InventorCam (from SolidWorks or MasterCam, I forget) and it integrate pretty well with AutodeskInventor. Of course all of my knowledge is based on simulation on the computer, I have not generated a single g code and run it (don't have my machine yet).

George is very modest, he did not mention that he has distribution right to CAD SW. He may be able to cut you a deal especially when you are buying the router from him.

Please let us know which route you are taking.


Thanks for all the public/private feedback on the CAM software.

I have downloaded all the free trials/demos and I am starting to play.

I will post back my impressions of each from a novice perspective.

http://www.the-martins.net/forums/camtrials.jpg

PS... Great idea on the table shelf. I think that will decidedly make it more rigid, and give me a place to put my material stock. I'll see if I can get that done today or tomorrow.

anthropod
02-19-2012, 06:43 PM
Update: I added the shelf to the table. It is now real solid. I thought it was ridged before. Now I have a good place to put stuff.

The software trials are going well. I find myself wishing I had paid more attention in geometry. Good suggestion on Inventor I will check that out. I am an educator so I can get heavy Autodesk discounts. If I start selling things I would need to get a commercial license.

http://www.the-martins.net/forums/table1.jpg

http://www.the-martins.net/forums/table2.jpg

azam1959
02-19-2012, 09:04 PM
Just want to mention that I also spent more than few weeks on Aspire and liked it a lot. If I would have been busy, I would have gone with Aspire solution (sweet and simple). You can do much much much more with Inventor but it will need time investment. Beside features and functionality, I like the fact that I am able to see three dimension models in Inventor/InventorCam and in Aspire it is little difficult to visualize the final product. Difficult to explain to the folks who are using Aspire and have not seen Inventor/InventorCam. Bottom line, put Aspire in your list too and yes there is free trial version and very large following.

For the shelf in your table, you may want to put beam on the smaller span too, it will make table more stable.

Cheers

Update: I added the shelf to the table. It is now real solid. I thought it was ridged before. Now I have a good place to put stuff.

The software trials are going well. I find myself wishing I had paid more attention in geometry. Good suggestion on Inventor I will check that out. I am an educator so I can get heavy Autodesk discounts. If I start selling things I would need to get a commercial license.

http://www.the-martins.net/forums/table1.jpg

http://www.the-martins.net/forums/table2.jpg

anthropod
02-21-2012, 10:08 PM
Just a quick update. I received a call from BobCAD-CAM today and they get really aggressive with their pricing. My issue is the fact that I haven't fallen in love with it. In fact I find it in some ways very overly complex and lacking in some areas. I don't think it is for me. I keep coming back to the Vectric products. I think Aspire is out of my leave, but I love Vcarve Pro and 3D Cut. I am very comfortable with Google Sketchup and 3D cut seems to do a great job with the STL files. I really feel I will be up and going much, much quicker with Vcarve. But.... I am still playing. Wish I could like BobCAD but I just don't seem to think the way it does. Darn my right brain!

anthropod
02-25-2012, 05:20 PM
I am still deciding on what direction I would like to go with my CAM software for my Xzero router. But.... I have played with a lot of software now. I wanted to thank everyone for their suggestions and help. While I haven't made a decision yet, I did evaluate software to create Lithophanes and I thought I would share a document I created.

LithoSoftV1.pdf (http://www.the-martins.net/forums/LithoSoftV1.pdf)

bobsch
02-25-2012, 09:33 PM
A great comparison. Thanks for posting!

anthropod
02-27-2012, 08:28 AM
I'm trying to finalize all my goodies before my router gets here.

I have pretty much blown my budget out of the water.
(Is that familiar to anyone here?)

Even though I have killed my budget, I would still like a little bit of icing.

So...I would like to go with one of these options.

Option A: I have a M12VC router. I have been reading about Super-PID.
www.SuperPID.com - Super-PID Closed-loop Router Speed Controller (http://www.vhipe.com/product-private/SuperPID.htm)

Option B: Get a Dust Boot & Hitachi Exhaust Deflector
KentCNC, LLC. Standard Dust Shoe (http://www.kentcnc.net/nc/products/94-standard-dust-shoe.aspx)

Option C: Extra workpiece holding stuff. This is where I have no real option in mind.

As a complete novice, what do you think I would appreciate more?

theremin
02-27-2012, 01:25 PM
I'm trying to finalize all my goodies before my router gets here.

I have pretty much blown my budget out of the water.
(Is that familiar to anyone here?)

Even though I have killed my budget, I would still like a little bit of icing.

So...I would like to go with one of these options.

Option A: I have a M12VC router. I have been reading about Super-PID.
www.SuperPID.com - Super-PID Closed-loop Router Speed Controller (http://www.vhipe.com/product-private/SuperPID.htm)

Option B: Get a Dust Boot & Hitachi Exhaust Deflector
KentCNC, LLC. Standard Dust Shoe (http://www.kentcnc.net/nc/products/94-standard-dust-shoe.aspx)

Option C: Extra workpiece holding stuff. This is where I have no real option in mind.

As a complete novice, what do you think I would appreciate more?

Given the choice, I'd go with the dust boot first. The Kent CNC shoe is great. I use a variable speed spindle, but I'm running it at full speed a good portion of the time. Variable speed is good to have, but not as important to me as good dust collection--keeps the machine rails and screws a lot cleaner, not to mention your lungs. For workpiece holding stuff, save up for round two and get a vacuum pump setup of some sort in addition to regular clamping arrangements. My .02...

Dave

anthropod
02-27-2012, 08:27 PM
Right now the dust shoe is looking like the best bet.

http://www.the-martins.net/forums/pre.jpg

Had another toy come in today. Couldn't help the cheesy star wash. Smartphones are fun.

azam1959
02-28-2012, 11:15 AM
Packing is impressive compared to what I got from CTC tools. After using the collets please write few lines about the quality.
Thanks


Right now the dust shoe is looking like the best bet.

http://www.the-martins.net/forums/pre.jpg

Had another toy come in today. Couldn't help the cheesy star wash. Smartphones are fun.

HuntinDoug
02-28-2012, 11:50 AM
I have the same set. They work nicely.

anthropod
02-28-2012, 12:39 PM
I too was impressed with the packaging. It was a very pleasant unboxing experience.
When I get things up and going, I will see if I can do a comparison between the stock collet and the new PreciseBits.

Doug, thanks for the reassurance. Some of my purchases I have made due to a “gut” feeling. This was one of them.

theremin
02-28-2012, 01:12 PM
I too was impressed with the packaging. It was a very pleasant unboxing experience.
When I get things up and going, I will see if I can do a comparison between the stock collet and the new PreciseBits.

Doug, thanks for the reassurance. Some of my purchases I have made due to a “gut” feeling. This was one of them.

I've used the Precise Bits "Precision grade" collets, and found them to be really good. Night and day difference over the stock (Bosch in my case) collet. Much less runout, and available in different sizes too. Precisebits also sells some specialty end mills that, although a bit pricey, are well worth the investment for cutting things like shell, fret slots in instrument fingerboards, etc. I've found them to be a good company to deal with.

Dave

BanduraMaker
02-28-2012, 03:06 PM
Dave, have you tried any other bits for fret slots? I'm using some .024 two flute carbide bits from Kyocera which are only $3 each. Precise bits has a better selection but 6x the cost....

theremin
02-28-2012, 04:23 PM
Dave, have you tried any other bits for fret slots? I'm using some .024 two flute carbide bits from Kyocera which are only $3 each. Precise bits has a better selection but 6x the cost....

I haven't, Andy. I'd be interested in knowing where you're sourcing your bits though! Precisebits' shell cutters really are a lot better than anything else I've tried, but I haven't tried anyone else's slot bits so far--always used a saw blade in the past...

Dave

anthropod
03-01-2012, 01:22 PM
Everything is about ready to come together. I am finalizing some loose ends.

One of those loose ends is CAM software. First I would like to thank everyone for their input they have given thus far. It truly has been helpful.

I have narrowed down my software choice between to packages/brands.

1. Artcam Express 2011
2. Vectric (VCarvePro, Cut3d, & PhotoVCarve)

Both packages seem to work more how I think.
For me it’s easy to talk about the +’s of both products.
So… I am down to looking at the things I don’t like.

In the Vectric Products, I’m not thrilled with feeling like I need 3 pieces of software. I know Aspire would take care of that (With exception of a couple of features in Cut3d), but I can’t afford $2,000.00 right now.

With Artcam Express I feel like it’s an iPhone app with in app purchases. It seems tell me…”don’t you want to do this? Its only a little more” If I want to do nesting I’m adding $500.00.. If I want to do this$$$$ you get the picture. I'm also not as thrilled with their support forums. Perhaps their user base is smaller than Vectric's. There is a secret members only forum that might be good…but I don’t know.

Is there anyone out there that has used both and has a strong preference either way?

theremin
03-01-2012, 02:01 PM
Everything is about ready to come together. I am finalizing some loose ends.

One of those loose ends is CAM software. First I would like to thank everyone for their input they have given thus far. It truly has been helpful.

I have narrowed down my software choice between to packages/brands.

1. Artcam Express 2011
2. Vectric (VCarvePro, Cut3d, & PhotoVCarve)

Both packages seem to work more how I think.
For me it’s easy to talk about the +’s of both products.
So… I am down to looking at the things I don’t like.

In the Vectric Products, I’m not thrilled with feeling like I need 3 pieces of software. I know Aspire would take care of that (With exception of a couple of features in Cut3d), but I can’t afford $2,000.00 right now.

With Artcam Express I feel like it’s an iPhone app with in app purchases. It seems tell me…”don’t you want to do this? Its only a little more” If I want to do nesting I’m adding $500.00.. If I want to do this$$$$ you get the picture. I'm also not as thrilled with their support forums. Perhaps their user base is smaller than Vectric's. There is a secret members only forum that might be good…but I don’t know.

Is there anyone out there that has used both and has a strong preference either way?

I haven't used Artcam Express, so I can't really respond to your question, but something that I can add regarding the Vectric products is that since I bought a copy of VCarve Pro a little over a year ago, I have received two free upgrades from Vectric. The functionality of the current version has several major improvements over what I initially bought. I don't know whether Artcam has the same upgrade policy or not, but Vectric's is free upgrades for a year on major upgrades (V5 to V6 for example), and the minor upgrades (V6.0 to V6.2 for example) don't seem to have a time limit.

I use Rhino and madCAM for all of my 3D stuff, but for 2.5D, V carving, lithophanes, etc., I think that VCarve/PhotoVCarve would be very hard to beat. Cut3d works well, but madCAM's integration with Rhino keeps me from using it.

Dave

azam1959
03-01-2012, 02:06 PM
uh.. i thought even if you do not use aspire, vectric pieces will integrate well. i know vectric has big support group, you want to use that resource.



Everything is about ready to come together. I am finalizing some loose ends.

One of those loose ends is CAM software. First I would like to thank everyone for their input they have given thus far. It truly has been helpful.

I have narrowed down my software choice between to packages/brands.

1. Artcam Express 2011
2. Vectric (VCarvePro, Cut3d, & PhotoVCarve)

Both packages seem to work more how I think.
For me it’s easy to talk about the +’s of both products.
So… I am down to looking at the things I don’t like.

In the Vectric Products, I’m not thrilled with feeling like I need 3 pieces of software. I know Aspire would take care of that (With exception of a couple of features in Cut3d), but I can’t afford $2,000.00 right now.

With Artcam Express I feel like it’s an iPhone app with in app purchases. It seems tell me…”don’t you want to do this? Its only a little more” If I want to do nesting I’m adding $500.00.. If I want to do this$$$$ you get the picture. I'm also not as thrilled with their support forums. Perhaps their user base is smaller than Vectric's. There is a secret members only forum that might be good…but I don’t know.

Is there anyone out there that has used both and has a strong preference either way?

anthropod
03-01-2012, 02:20 PM
You are correct! They do integrate well. I just wish it was one program instead of three. Really I think two programs would be okay. I think PhotoVCarve should be built into VCarve Pro. Really I'm just being nit picky.


uh.. i thought even if you do not use aspire, vectric pieces will integrate well. i know vectric has big support group, you want to use that resource.

azam1959
03-01-2012, 02:28 PM
no, you are not picky. it is not in vendors advantage to make customer life difficult when they can simply add a menu button to invoke other programs. It is very easy to do and i am surprised why it is not done yet. i hope vendor do understand that not everybody will be buying 2k aspire (actually i thought it was more expensive) and integrating low cost programs will attract a different market segment.

i saw posts from number of sw distributors on the zone. you may want to look for those post and talk to the distributors for bigger discount.

good luck my friend.



You are correct! They do integrate well. I just wish it was one program instead of three. Really I think two programs would be okay. I think PhotoVCarve should be built into VCarve Pro. Really I'm just being nit picky.

anthropod
03-02-2012, 07:56 PM
Just a quick update...

CANTEX Junction Box, PVC, 13x13x6.25:Amazon:Home Improvement

I think this is going to be a great electronics box.

anthropod
03-06-2012, 11:02 AM
One more box and I'll be in business. :-)

anthropod
03-07-2012, 04:57 PM
That box arrived. The Fun can start!

anthropod
03-08-2012, 12:30 AM
Progress!

anthropod
03-08-2012, 08:34 AM
My wizbang table that I was so proud of is not flat. :-(

My poor little viper rocks back and forth. If I turn it 90 its fine, but I designed the table with the proper dimensions to work the other way. I guess i'll need to shim it. or... I guess I could Dremel out a little of the top to make it flat. (Make a little slot that is flat. That stinks. Assembly thus far is going great!

azam1959
03-08-2012, 08:45 AM
wouldn't it be difficult to make a flat slot from dremel?

If rocking is the issue, can you take few small angles and connect end profile to the table? this may make profile to curve along table top which may create other issues. Will putting a rigid/stiff material between table and end profile help (a thin metal strip or hardwood piece)?

just throwing some ideas I do not have any experience here.


My wizbang table that I was so proud of is not flat. :-(

My poor little viper rocks back and forth. If I turn it 90 its fine, but I designed the table with the proper dimensions to work the other way. I guess i'll need to shim it. or... I guess I could Dremel out a little of the top to make it flat. (Make a little slot that is flat. That stinks. Assembly thus far is going great!

gio666
03-08-2012, 08:53 AM
It would be better to drill the holes in table for the M8 bolts on bottom of end frame , that machine will not stay on table with out being held down. Use M8 studs and use washers to have machine level

gio666
03-08-2012, 08:55 AM
or just put 2 nuts and 2 washer on stud and leveling would be easy

gio666
03-08-2012, 08:57 AM
And would be better to have machine a bit higher so nothing gets caught under gantry

gio666
03-08-2012, 09:01 AM
If not bolted to table, first run at high speed machine will be on floor

anthropod
03-08-2012, 09:08 AM
It would be better to drill the holes in table for the M8 bolts on bottom of end frame , that machine will not stay on table with out being held down. Use M8 studs and use washers to have machine level

This certainly sounds like the way to go. Don't want the thing to fly off the table. HA!

How deep are the holes in the bottom for the M8s?
(I just want to figure out how long of screws I need to get when I get my washers.)

anthropod
03-11-2012, 04:36 PM
Does this look correct for my z axis?

gio666
03-11-2012, 09:43 PM
Yes is right how you have it, you can also separate bearing blocks one more bolt hole and Z axis will be stronger

anthropod
03-21-2012, 03:51 PM
It's been a while since i have posted an update.
Progress has slowed just a bit.

Can anyone point me to some information about wiring up proximity switches to the G540? To save inputs would you wire them in parallel?

I found this thread: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/gecko_drives/70803-g540_proximity_switches.html

It goes from complex to simple.

Thoughts?

anthropod
04-03-2012, 03:37 PM
Sorry for the slow progress. It's been crazy the last few weeks. I have a vacation coming up starting on the 6th. Over the ten days I plan to do my best to finish the project and make my first cuts. I have two main issues to address.

1. I need to fix my table so it is more appropriate for my router. I did not think about mounting my router to the table. (Brain Dead Move! Ha!) I have support structures where I need to run bolts to the router. This should not be a big deal but it may require me to bolt on a piece of angle iron to the front. So I need to pickup some stuff. (I wish it was easier to get metric stuff in my neck of the woods...oh well.)

2. Setup the Electronics. I am using a Gecko G540. Here is the part that I am confused with I am using proximity switches for the Home/Limit. 5 in all The G540 has only 4 inputs. I really wish it has 6 inputs as I would like to make/use an auto tool height plate.

With classic physical switches, I could wire them in parallel and use less inputs. I have read that that is not the thing to do with proximity switches.. or you cant do that...I have not figured out which one it is.

Also, some say it's best to use a separate power supply for the switches. The G540 has 10VDC out on Pin 9. Could I just use that?

I went ahead and ordered the XZero Y sensor mounting plate/cable chain holder so I may just get the X working and worry about the Y when it comes in.

My goal is to have the router's first cut done by Friday the 13th. :-)

theremin
04-03-2012, 07:32 PM
My vote would be to get the machine secured to the table physically, then get it running without worrying about the prox switches at all until later. I have switches to install on mine, but have been running the machine quite nicely using only Mach3's virtual limits and might well never even bother with the physical switches.

After you get the machine up and going, you can add the prox switches to the mix with the knowledge that the machine works correctly.

Just my .02....

Dave

anthropod
04-03-2012, 07:38 PM
Dave,

Good advice.

Just hook up the E-Stop and let it go.

I'll sleep on it and see if I can let my self do that. Besides it's not like the thing is hard to take apart. I may just setup the x prox before I put the top on just to make it a little easier. Or may just throw caution to the wind. Thanks again.

theremin
04-03-2012, 08:36 PM
Dave,

Good advice.

Just hook up the E-Stop and let it go.

I'll sleep on it and see if I can let my self do that. Besides it's not like the thing is hard to take apart. I may just setup the x prox before I put the top on just to make it a little easier. Or may just throw caution to the wind. Thanks again.

Yeah, E-Stop is good to set up at first without a doubt! And go ahead and put the switches in to where you don't have to take anything apart later--just don't worry about getting everything working into the G540/Mach3 yet.

It's not really throwing caution to the wind I don't think. It's just building from the ground up and adding one new layer (and challenge) at a time. Doing it that way when you come up upon a problem, you know what it is that you changed last and it's easier to troubleshoot....

Dave

gio666
04-03-2012, 08:51 PM
YES prox switches are always better done last,

xsnrg
04-03-2012, 10:11 PM
I went ahead and ordered the XZero Y sensor mounting plate/cable chain holder so I may just get the X working and worry about the Y when it comes in.

George, are getting these made again, thought you said you wernt going to bother. Would have been nice to have it for my Raptor32.

azam1959
04-04-2012, 08:13 AM
i will be facing the same issue in few days, please post how did this go. i got the screws both 4.5 inch and 6 inch long and was able to order metric size and also planning to use blind hole spotter to mark on the top. i do worry about direct hit on the screws in the bottom and second issue is i don't think i don't have 5-6 inch long bit (hope they are readily available in hw store and i can pick them up on my next trip).



I have support structures where I need to run bolts to the router. This should not be a big deal but it may require me to bolt on a piece of angle iron to the front. :-)

azam1959
04-04-2012, 08:17 AM
Dave,
I thought we need to put switch brackets before putting the top, right?


My vote would be to get the machine secured to the table physically, then get it running without worrying about the prox switches at all until later. I have switches to install on mine, but have been running the machine quite nicely using only Mach3's virtual limits and might well never even bother with the physical switches.

After you get the machine up and going, you can add the prox switches to the mix with the knowledge that the machine works correctly.

Just my .02....

Dave

theremin
04-04-2012, 10:13 AM
Dave,
I thought we need to put switch brackets before putting the top, right?

Yes, that would be best I would think. I think that mounting switches early is good, but actually hooking them up and making them work would probably be a later-on activity. At least the way that I do things it would be. I like to add one thing at a time, get it working and then move on to the next thing. I don't multitask very well...

Dave

anthropod
04-07-2012, 11:22 AM
A lot of progress in a short amount of time today. I have to quit for the day, but I have the router legs/tie down to a success point. I will of course need to level the router, but I feel a first cut coming next week.

azam1959
04-07-2012, 04:31 PM
why you need steel channel for the table?



A lot of progress in a short amount of time today. I have to quit for the day, but I have the router legs/tie down to a success point. I will of course need to level the router, but I feel a first cut coming next week.

anthropod
04-07-2012, 05:38 PM
why you need steel channel for the table?



Because I was brain dead when I designed my table. I could not bolt down my router because of support structures under the table. So with the angle iron there, the front could be moved forward and bolted there. The back moved forward where there was no support structures.

anthropod
04-09-2012, 07:34 AM
Today is my first full day of vacation. Let's see how much I can get done.

anthropod
04-09-2012, 08:11 AM
Router leveled...now attaching table to my floor. I love Kreg Jigs. Pocket holes are cool. I'm lucky my floor is plywood in my shed/man cave.

azam1959
04-09-2012, 08:26 AM
Wow ... you even attached he table to the floor ! is this just precautionary measure you actually think/saw table moving when machine is in operation?



Router leveled...now attaching table to my floor. I love Kreg Jigs. Pocket holes are cool. I'm lucky my floor is plywood in my shed/man cave.

anthropod
04-09-2012, 09:16 AM
As far securing the table to the floor ,sometimes I just overengineered things. I also secured the table to the wall to a stud. It shouldn't go anywhere. I just tested the proximity sensor and it works great! Now I'm going to put the tabletop on. On a side note I'm getting to listen to a lot of music which I normally don't get to enough in my daily life.

azam1959
04-09-2012, 09:20 AM
enjoy my friend. i can relate to the excitement :-) guess you are ready to be promoted to cad/cam soon and we will not see you here anymore. have a great day.



As far securing the table to the floor ,sometimes I just overengineered things. I also secured the table to the wall to a stud. It shouldn't go anywhere. I just tested the proximity sensor and it works great! Now I'm going to put the tabletop on. On a side note I'm getting to listen to a lot of music which I normally don't get to enough in my daily life.

anthropod
04-09-2012, 09:51 AM
Top on. I checked for square and level. It was fine! There is also plenty of room to clean and such under the router.

anthropod
04-09-2012, 02:14 PM
It's Alive! XZero CNC Router - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvCpfh0mS8g&feature=youtu.be)

anthropod
04-09-2012, 05:18 PM
Ok something that says restroom is not that exciting, but it came with the trial version of Vcarve Pro. In any case... I have my first cut!

anthropod
04-10-2012, 07:50 AM
Today is clean up the shed and electronics day... let's see which one takes more time. By the way, I didn't plan on milling any aluminum yesterday but I was successful at that as well.

azam1959
04-12-2012, 12:10 PM
Thank you very much for sharing your build experience with rest of us.

Good luck



Ok something that says restroom is not that exciting, but it came with the trial version of Vcarve Pro. In any case... I have my first cut!

anthropod
04-15-2012, 05:55 PM
First Carving with XZero Viper router. - YouTube

microdot
05-15-2012, 12:33 AM
Today is clean up the shed and electronics day... let's see which one takes more time. By the way, I didn't plan on milling any aluminum yesterday but I was successful at that as well.

Welcome to the world of CNC. As you get more experience under your belt you will mill the hard bits less and less, but I can tell you that even after 15years that problem never fully goes away.

This is one of mine from about 2 years ago:
CNC Machine Tool Endmill Crash Oops - YouTube


Enjoy you new machine!:cheers:

anthropod
05-21-2012, 04:57 PM
I had to watch that a few times! The first time, I didn't catch it... I thought where did the bit go? Thanks for sharing I feel better. :-)

Hope to work on some of my limit switches this weekend.