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Tool Designer
12-16-2011, 09:11 PM
Hello all. First time post. I've been a cutting tool engineer for 32 years and I finally decided to set myself up with a machine to work on some of my own projects. I'm building the CRP4848 from CNC Router Parts. Looks like there are going to be quite a few people building this machine. I'm going to try and add both pictures and video of my build as I go along. I want to try and show the actual assembly for those that might want to purchase and build their own. Going to try and link a video showing the electronics I will be using.
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Tool Designer
12-16-2011, 10:52 PM
Here is an over view of the machine base components.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/H0t32Yp_Vck?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Tool Designer
12-17-2011, 02:02 PM
Assembling the base. Here are a few pics of the fasteners and angles supports. The Button Head Bolts screw into the ends of the cross members and slide into the slots into the side rails. The short bolts need to go into the inside of the angle supports so you can get a socket on them.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/LPJiMh5Ql3w?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Tool Designer
12-17-2011, 10:18 PM
Clean the steel plate first with a rag. I used a fine grit foam pad to remove surface scale and oxide. Wipe clean and wipe on some WD-40. Line up the bolts on the rail with holes in the plate and lower the plate on to the rail. Just sung up the nuts for now. The plates will need adjusted when putting on the Risers.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/sIH0USsbrys?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Tool Designer
12-18-2011, 02:04 PM
Here is a n over view of the parts for the Gantry Risers. You have to assemble the extended carriages with the bolts, lock washers, nuts, and bearings. You will want to attach the brushes first so you can get at the bolts. Slide the extended carriages on the rail and adjust the set screws till the bearings are snug. Lay the Riser on top of the extended carriages and screw in the 3/8" bolts. You will want to use adjustable clamps to pull the carriages together before tightening the bolts.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/euI27G3wnDE?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Tool Designer
12-18-2011, 06:52 PM
Bring the Risers up to the stops and lay the Y-axis extrusion flat. Slide in the 8 bolts into the back past the risers. Slide the shorter bolt in the bottom past the risers. Measure in 1.25 from each end and mark a line for reference. Lift the extrusion up and set on the risers. Clamp one end and push the riser back on the other end just enough to slide the bolts into position. Line up the bolts with the holes and slide the riser forward. Attach some of the nuts to secure. Do the same for the other side. Check for square. Re-clamp the extended carriages on the risers and loosen the bolts. Twist the risers if necessary to square the axis. Re-tighten bolts and check movement. Repeat as necessary.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/do7Oir2X-kc?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Wolfspaw
12-19-2011, 10:00 AM
Nice videos...keep 'em coming!

Tool Designer
12-19-2011, 04:00 PM
Measure out the positioning of the rail spacers and mark a line for there locations. I set the rails in .250 from one end. The center on one rail clamp spacer is at 3.750 and the next at 15.500 from both sides. And one in the center. Line up the carriage bolts to the holes on the rails and install with the nuts. Do not tighten. Install the bolts for the spacer clamps and add the nuts, again do not tighten. Make sure the rails sit in the spacers and add clamps to the rails to pull them together. Tighten the spacer clamps first and then the rails before removing the clamps.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YV7HwMewICg?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Tool Designer
12-19-2011, 10:05 PM
Install and adjust extended carriage on the top rail. Attach the Z/Y plate to the op carriage with the bolts but leave them loose. Install the bottom carriage with loose adjustment on the bearings. I used .3125 All-tread with washers and nuts to draw the carriages together. Tension the bearings on the bottom carriage. Adjust the All-tread till you can move the plate. Tighten up the bolts on the plate to the carriages. Remove the All-tread. Move back and forth and readjust as needed.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/FuebyZ_JlaU?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Tool Designer
12-21-2011, 09:26 PM
Had an issue with the bolts for the rack mounts. Because they are a press fit, the bolts were not long enough to get the nuts on. I reached under the bolts with an Alan wrench to push the bolts up and attach the nuts, then tapped the mounts with a brass hammer ((chair)) to move the mounts down so I could get enough threads into the nuts. Clamped the rack to the mounts then tightened the nuts. Location is easy, just located the one end of the rack to be flush with the end of the Y-Axis extrusion. Also bought a 1/4-20 by 1.250 long hex bolt for the R&P tension mount as you can't get to the head of the supplied Socket Head Cap Screw. Other than that, all worked out good. Also added a pic of the Z-Axis components.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/JVTYlBHw5Vw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Tool Designer
12-22-2011, 09:11 PM
The extended carriages can be mounted in 2 positions, high and low. The low position will allow the Z-Axis extrusion to travel down to the work surface and the high position raises everything up 1.500". If you adjust your spindle mount to take this into account you will have more travel upwards allowing for longer tools. You must mount the bearing block/trust bearings and washers/locking collar/and the heli-coil coupler assembly first before mounting the steel plate. Mount the motor to get the bearing block location with the heli-coil almost the hole way on the motor shaft.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/zBruCwze42Q?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Jibber
12-23-2011, 04:29 AM
Thanks for sharing all the information and tips, very nice!

Cheers, Christoph

Tool Designer
12-23-2011, 09:59 AM
Just wanted to say Thank You to both Jibber and Wolfspaw for the nice comments. My best to both of you. I hope my postings are helping others out.

eigstein
12-23-2011, 10:04 AM
Best post yet on building alum erector set type machine .

sincerely ,

eigstein

Euro3D
12-23-2011, 03:32 PM
Thank you for taking the time to do the detailed videos, I am three steps behind you in the assembly of my CRP4848 but I now watch your video of each step before I proceed as there are some great tips.

I am impressed with how well engineered and complete the kits are from CNC Router Parts and accuracy that is emerging during the build.

Cheers

John

vrf
12-23-2011, 05:37 PM
Great tips in your videos. It'll be a huge help for helping me with my own build.

Wolfspaw
12-23-2011, 11:15 PM
I hope you continue with this thread right up through your first cuts. As you can see, you have a bunch of interested followers.

Wolfspaw

yackback
12-24-2011, 02:18 PM
I recently purchased one of these kits and while I haven't gotten all the parts yet, I greatly appreciate these videos, because I'm still a bit intimidated at the prospect of assembling one of these. I'm sure these videos will help. I'd also love to see how you fine tune the machine after it's all assembled and running!

Jkountz
12-24-2011, 04:16 PM
Yes yes, please keep the vids coming!! We are all loving this!!

Tool Designer
12-24-2011, 05:41 PM
I just want to say Thank You, to everyone that left comments, it is appreciated. I am glad that so far my post's are helping those that are building, going to build, or are thinking about building one of these machines. I plan to keep going with posts beyond the first cuts to show what this machine can do. My best to everyone.

Tool Designer
12-24-2011, 05:55 PM
For the Z-Axis, I locked the Heli-Coil onto the lead screw and remove the bearing/screw assembly. I then took the Lead Screw Nut and ran it up the lead screw to snug up the thrust bearings and tightened the Locking Collar around the lead screw. I the reassembled everything and removed the motor. Next slide the Z-Axis between the upper bearings on the Z/Y Plate and gently screw into the Lead Screw Nut. Turn the lead screw until you get it through the bottom bearings. Then tension the carriage bolts and clamp the carriages together. Finally tighten the bolts to the carriage. Last mount the motor and tighten the Heli-Coil to the motor shaft. The pictures show the final Z-Axis and the R&P components.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/xIaviWGTqkk?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

digitalcoleman
12-24-2011, 10:25 PM
I am also building the 4x4, and while i didnt find this until I finished today, it has some great tips to get around some of the issues I hit as well. I also suspect my somewhat more lax attention to intense squareness will hit me later. I am getting started on the electronics in a couple days and look forward to seeing how you pull it all together.
thanks for sharing in such detail!

bill flesher
12-25-2011, 01:37 PM
Where did you get your motors and drivers from? what supplier?

Tool Designer
12-27-2011, 08:00 PM
The rack clamps start flush with the front of the machine, the back clamp ends at 54" from the front and the other 2 are 14" from each other between all of them. For the Spindle Mount I used 1/8" x 1/2" steel plate and cut 2 pieces at 3" in length. Drill 2 holes in each 1-1/2" apart and tapped 5/16-18 treads to make nut plate. The bolts are Socket Head Cap Screws 5/16-18 by .500 long for the Mount.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7_deo2Ybkuc?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Tool Designer
12-29-2011, 05:59 PM
Adding End connectors to the motor ends. Had a problem with the shaft length on my steppers, had to grind some off the ends. The spindle got jammed in the mount and had to tear down the Z Axis. Making a mounting plate for the spindle mount so it does not compress when I attach it to the Z Axis. Getting ready to make brackets for mounting my E-chain's to the machine. Then finally get on tho the wiring.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GGDFotO5T80?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Tool Designer
12-30-2011, 07:47 PM
Steel plate works great for the spindle mount. Now laying out locations and mounting of the E-Chain.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/PxViD0bgGfU?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

ahren
12-31-2011, 01:09 AM
Tool Designer,

I've had my head down trying to get kits out the door, figure out our own cable track kit, and keep things in stock after the massive popularity of these kits, which this thread is probably partly responsible for generating. I'd like to thank you personally for the detailed videos and descriptions of how you have put things together. I haven't had time to watch them all yet, but I will, and I'll definitely point people to this thread, and will try to follow it to answer questions that might arise.

Best regards,

Ahren
CNCRouterParts (http://www.cncrouterparts.com)

digitalcoleman
12-31-2011, 01:38 AM
Just a note that my cncrp 4848 is complete and running like a champ.
I used the full 4'x4' kit and the Nema34 electronics kit and an empty enclosure from cncrouterparts.
The mechanics took me about 8-10 hours to assemble, tho I didnt do quite the fine tuning that Tool Designer has done.
The electronics took about 5 hours to wire up and get hooked in. I am also using a SmoothStepper for USB connectivity.
The machine is fast as all get out! I had it cut a few roadrunners out of masonite and it went like butter.

Things I need now:
cable management - hoping the cncrouterparts kit is close to being ready
homing switches - would love advice on a particular brand or model of proximity sensor, 12V
Emergency stop switch - might pick up the one at cncrouter parts unless someone has a better suggestion
Vacuum system - looking at a 1HP Shop Fox...

I am a happy and excited newbie open to suggestions!
(video of machine running to come tomorrow)

Tool Designer
12-31-2011, 06:41 PM
Tool Designer,

I've had my head down trying to get kits out the door, figure out our own cable track kit, and keep things in stock after the massive popularity of these kits, which this thread is probably partly responsible for generating. I'd like to thank you personally for the detailed videos and descriptions of how you have put things together. I haven't had time to watch them all yet, but I will, and I'll definitely point people to this thread, and will try to follow it to answer questions that might arise.

Best regards,

Ahren
CNCRouterParts (http://www.cncrouterparts.com)


Thanks Ahren, Anything I can do to help I'll do. My best to you.

Tool Designer
12-31-2011, 06:46 PM
Well all went real smooth with attaching the E-Chain's. Using Flat Strapping and Angle Strapping made quick work putting these on.

PS: Happy New Year Everyone. Please all be safe.

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DonFrambach
01-01-2012, 02:19 AM
Looking great!! May not be a problem, but have you considered putting a lip on the back of the board on the gantry to prevent the E-chain from falling off?

Tool Designer
01-02-2012, 07:04 PM
Here is the layout for my Electronics.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/QqUyYbQBHA4?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Tool Designer
01-08-2012, 07:23 PM
All Axis now running. Need to finish up the spindle plumbing next.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/5dmPV7TyzPg?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Jkountz
01-08-2012, 08:44 PM
Wow that thing really zips right along doesnt it!! I would be thrilled to pieces as Im sure you are right now!

Tool Designer
01-14-2012, 09:25 PM
Setting up the grounding for the spindle and plumbing the coolant tubes and the wire connectors.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/pBHMjJ7azzE?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

vtx1029
01-15-2012, 12:04 PM
If your looking for better tubing connectors, look up instant fittings from Mcmaster carr. Very easy to connect and disconnect. I've had good luck with the plastic and stainless ones using fluids but the chrome coated ones will eat away if the water becomes ionized.

Tool Designer
01-21-2012, 07:59 PM
All done with the Coolant setup and now have the spindle running. Have to hook it up to the BOB next to get it to run from the software.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3H8FqQpYqRk?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

vrf
01-21-2012, 09:27 PM
You're motors are 1600 oz? Wow. Am I going to regret considering the basic 380oz Nema 23 ones that Ahren offers with his kits?

Your machine really cruises...

Tool Designer
01-29-2012, 09:44 PM
You're motors are 1600 oz? Wow. Am I going to regret considering the basic 380oz Nema 23 ones that Ahren offers with his kits?

Your machine really cruises...

Depends on what you want to do with the machine. The NEMA 23 setup from Ahren has is geared 3/1 and he has everything set up to be plug and play.

Tool Designer
01-29-2012, 09:50 PM
Indicated the Z-axis and it came out at only .001 over 5" of travel. Added a Touch screen to the monitor. Added Monitor stand. Having problem with the PWM for speed control. Any thoughts for a good PWM card? Looking at the DigiSpeed DC-02. Anyone used this before?

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YJhpsskLjXg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

ger21
01-29-2012, 10:34 PM
Are you trying to take PWM from Mach3 and convert to 0-10V? What kind of problem are you having?

Tool Designer
01-29-2012, 11:28 PM
Are you trying to take PWM from Mach3 and convert to 0-10V? What kind of problem are you having?

I'm using a UIM2901-5A BOB. It has PWM output. It worked before I started the build with Mach3, now I can turn on the spindle and it just sits there at 1.75V (4300rpm) and it won't adjust ether up nor down.

ezcnc
02-02-2012, 02:34 PM
I'm surprised it varied the speed much at all. As you say a device to convert
the PWM signal to an analog 0-10vdc that the inverter can understand is needed.

The Digispeed DC-02 will work or any inexpensive converter. Something like this:

PWM Signal to DC Voltage,Conversion Board for Speed Control of Spindle/Mach/Cnc | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/PWM-Signal-DC-Voltage-Conversion-Board-Speed-Control-Spindle-Mach-Cnc-/180744494172?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a15361c5c)

Hopefully the PWM signal is still functional from the UIM2901. If you have a
oscilloscope or access to one the PWM signal can be quickly checked.

Edit: this one has some nice features but about 3x the cost: PMDX.COM - Products for CNC and motion control applications (http://www.pmdx.com/PMDX-106)

Tool Designer
02-04-2012, 05:38 PM
Finished adjusting the Z-Axis and checked my spindle run-out. All looks good.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Np6UKpIRe4U" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Tool Designer
02-12-2012, 06:40 PM
Hello everyone. Just a short video showing the machine planing some wood.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Z20tD8yNaYs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Euro3D
02-13-2012, 03:29 AM
Congratulations on your first cut.

A rapid build achieved in sub two months!

Thanks again for posting the video very much appreciated.

Cheers

John

wingarcher
02-15-2012, 04:08 PM
Great build, and one I hope to use as advice when I'm building one if I decide to go with this machine kit. I see in your last video that you plan to do some test cutting on that block of wood.

I'd be interested to see measurements that will reflect the amount of tool deflection- IE measure the parts and post those measurements along with the programmed sizes, for both climb and conventional cuts using relatively small bits (.125, .25)

By the look of it, there shouldn't be much- I'd bet you can't move the bit if you push on it with your finger?!

N

Tool Designer
02-18-2012, 12:27 PM
Great build, and one I hope to use as advice when I'm building one if I decide to go with this machine kit. I see in your last video that you plan to do some test cutting on that block of wood.

I'd be interested to see measurements that will reflect the amount of tool deflection- IE measure the parts and post those measurements along with the programmed sizes, for both climb and conventional cuts using relatively small bits (.125, .25)

By the look of it, there shouldn't be much- I'd bet you can't move the bit if you push on it with your finger?!

N


Lets put it to you this way. With the machine turned on, if I grab a hold of the spindle and push real hard the only thing that moves is the entire machine.

Euro3D
03-04-2012, 03:01 PM
Hi Tooldesigner,

Hope your machine is making lots of chips.

Did you resolve your spindle speed being controlled from Mach issue?

I have been looking into the VFD set up for my machine which will use a linux/EMC2 set up, I know your running with Mach however I came across this post which details some of the pin outs on the chinese spindle may be label incorrectly.

Redirecting... (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpo...79&postcount=5)


If you have a chance to post some info on how you wired your VFD up including the potentiometer wiring to adjust the spindle speed that would be much appreciated.

Cheers

John

ezcnc
03-04-2012, 05:42 PM
I'll jump in here since I have the same BOB and VFD. The documentation that I have shows a PWM output not a 0-10v output from the UIM2901. After getting mine running I found the documentation is incorrect and it does output a 0-10v analog voltage.

Mine is wired with 10v out from the VFD to the 10v input on the BOB. AI (analog in) pin on the VFD is connected to the pin labeled OUT on the BOB and ACM (analog ground) is connected to the BOB ground. I can control the spindle speed with S0 - S1000 for 0 to 100%.

I also have the the pin labeled CP1 connected to the REV(reverse) pin on the VFD and ground goes to VFD DCM (digital ground). I can use M3/M5 to start and stop the spindle.

The VFD has to be set to accept input from the digital in lines (not the front panel) to start the spindle and change frequency.

Tool Designer
03-04-2012, 08:33 PM
Hello everyone. Sorry for the long delay in posting new info. I got Hung Up (sorry for the pun) on a Wall Paper job. Which is quite an interesting experience for someone that can only raise one arm above his head. But I digress. John, I will try and have something posted sometime this week on the VFD. I want to make sure it is put together clearly so everyone can understand. I knew you were getting close to that point so I will do my best to help you out. I think I fried the PWM on my board so I have something different coming in this week. What Are you going to use to control the VFD or are you going to just use a manual switch and pot? I will be setting up for both ways, which I will review when I get everything in. Will post more videos soon. My best to everyone.

Tool Designer
03-04-2012, 08:40 PM
I'll jump in here since I have the same BOB and VFD. The documentation that I have shows a PWM output not a 0-10v output from the UIM2901. After getting mine running I found the documentation is incorrect and it does output a 0-10v analog voltage.

Mine is wired with 10v out from the VFD to the 10v input on the BOB. AI (analog in) pin on the VFD is connected to the pin labeled OUT on the BOB and ACM (analog ground) is connected to the BOB ground. I can control the spindle speed with S0 - S1000 for 0 to 100%.

I also have the the pin labeled CP1 connected to the REV(reverse) pin on the VFD and ground goes to VFD DCM (digital ground). I can use M3/M5 to start and stop the spindle.

The VFD has to be set to accept input from the digital in lines (not the front panel) to start the spindle and change frequency.

Thanks for the input. Its a nice board but I think I fried the PWM output on mine. I have a C41 board coming in from CNC4PC this week. It uses a separate 12V input with a pot adjuster to set the max voltage output. I could never get more than 9.5 volts out of the UIM2901 before it went and it did not have a pot for adjustment. Still overall its a nice board and works great.

Euro3D
03-06-2012, 06:27 AM
Hi Tooldesigner,

I am going to run with the manual control via a switch and a pot so I can get up and running.

Down the track I will revist the VFD and try to integrate the control back into Linux EMC2. Looks to be a non trivial task as researching it shows you have to modify the EMC code with some add-in code to get auto control of the VFD via EMC.

Many thanks

John

allengambrell
03-07-2012, 09:08 AM
What kind of wire and gague did you run from the drivers to the motors and from the vfd to the spindle?

Tool Designer
03-07-2012, 06:04 PM
What kind of wire and gague did you run from the drivers to the motors and from the vfd to the spindle?

This is what I used for both the steppers and the spindle. Works great and great price.

16AWG/4C In-Wall Outdoor cl3 65 stranded Speaker Wire

You can get it here:
100'Ft cl3 16 /4 awg g gauge In-Wall outdoor audio cable Speaker Wire white 50ft | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160685005234&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AL%3AOC%3AMOTORS%3A1123)

Tool Designer
03-09-2012, 06:19 PM
Here are the Settings I am using for the inverter. Video coming soon.

Here is the video.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/a-8NR5XY8CQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Tool Designer
03-10-2012, 07:51 AM
I have added the video below.

Khalid
03-10-2012, 10:17 AM
Tool Designer,
That is the first Video i have seen on CNCZONE about VFD setting. Thats awesome detail and well explained. I am thankful to you for the time you taken for us explaining the complete process.
Regards

Euro3D
03-10-2012, 10:37 AM
Hi Tooldesigner,

Thankyou for the post on your vfd setup, a big help.

I had also read the manual last night and some threads throughout the zone on vfd setup.

I gather the sequence of the PD settings is important and have the sequence. i also understand you need to avoid viewing PD 013 as this resets any parameters you set back to factory settings.

I am going to run three phase input into my VFD as I have available in my workshop and should improve the efficiency of the vfd.

I understand each of the hot legs of the three phases go to R, S and T.

I have a seperate neutral and earth. You mention the terminal labelled E on the VFD is neutral/Earth. One query I have is which wire should I wire into the E terminal, the Neutral or the Earth?

I loke your Pot, did you get that on ebay, if so could you advise the spec/link.

Many thanks for all your effort on the VFD making it much easier for my build. Much appreciated.

Cheers

John

Khalid
03-10-2012, 10:43 AM
One silly question,
How we can identify U V and W wiring of the motor?

Tool Designer
03-10-2012, 11:19 AM
Hi Tooldesigner,

Thankyou for the post on your vfd setup, a big help.

I had also read the manual last night and some threads throughout the zone on vfd setup.

I gather the sequence of the PD settings is important and have the sequence. i also understand you need to avoid viewing PD 013 as this resets any parameters you set back to factory settings.

I am going to run three phase input into my VFD as I have available in my workshop and should improve the efficiency of the vfd.

I understand each of the hot legs of the three phases go to R, S and T.

I have a seperate neutral and earth. You mention the terminal labelled E on the VFD is neutral/Earth. One query I have is which wire should I wire into the E terminal, the Neutral or the Earth?

I loke your Pot, did you get that on ebay, if so could you advise the spec/link.

Many thanks for all your effort on the VFD making it much easier for my build. Much appreciated.

Cheers

John

Hi John. I'm not an electrician so I hope someone else can confirm or correct my input. You should be able to wire ether or Neutral or Ground to the E terminal, or you can attach them both. The mains coming into your main power panel usually have both your neutral and ground wires connecting to the same terminal bars. The earth ground is connected to the neutral terminal at the meter box and grounded to 1 or more copper rods run about 8 feet into the ground depending on the Amperage service provided. I only have 3 wires coming in to the VFD, 2 110 hot and 1 neutral. The neutral is grounded at my mains power box.

The pot is one that I bought about 20 years ago and is no longer listed. Its 100k but you only need a 10k for this setup. Wish you the best at setting up and hope all goes well. Let me know if you need anything else.

Tool Designer
03-10-2012, 11:25 AM
One silly question,
How we can identify U V and W wiring of the motor?

Check the motor connector on the spindle. Ether the male or female side will have some numbers on it. I wired mine to be U=1 V=2 3=W. Also, you need a 4th wire to ground the spindle. If you only have 3 poles on the spindle, connect the ground wire to the spindle connector and connect to the E at the VFD. If you don't you will have stray voltage at the spindle. Hope this helps.

alan_3301
03-10-2012, 11:26 AM
U,V,W can be connected in any way to the motor. If motor spins in reverse direction, swap any 2 wires. An alternative is so setup reverse direction in VFD.

as far as the R,S,T, and E, as long as the 3 phase voltage is within the input specs of the VFD, then each leg of the 3 phase can go to R,S,T. Ground to E, leave neutral disconnected.

This is what I have learned from skimming the huanyang vfd manual about 20 times. I don't have any 1st hand experience, so keep that in mind. Also I live in USA so I'm not sure if there is something I am missing with a euro wiring job.

Euro3D
03-10-2012, 06:47 PM
Hi Tooldesigner and Alan

Thanks for confirming.

I too was thinking that then each leg of the 3 phase can go to R,S,T and the Ground to E on the VFD leaving the neutral disconnected and research had shown that Neutral and Ground are connected.

Will post on the outcome.

Cheers

John

Tool Designer
03-10-2012, 08:59 PM
Here is a video on calibrating the machine.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/CVoU4zVPKZo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Khalid
03-11-2012, 05:29 AM
Hi again,
Thank You for the information about U,V and W wiring of the motor. your latest video about calibration shall be really very very helpful for my new machine :)... Your videos are great and the way of delivering is really awesome..
Thank You and keep posting your work.. may i know your name sir?

wingarcher
03-11-2012, 03:57 PM
Here is a video on calibrating the machine.


Thanks for that one!!! I finished up the mechanical assembly of my machine last night- helped in no small part by your series of videos. Some of the design of the machine has changed since you built yours (the R/P tension most notably) but you were very helpful.

It appears that in order to maintain alignment we'll have to be VERY careful around the gantry when it's off? On my machine right now, it's possible to move a single side of the gantry a small amount (1/8?) without the other side starting to move. Same for you? Do you plan to use the properly calibrated machine to set home switches so the gantry can re-set itself if it does get bumped?

In regard to use of the shims- could you have dialed that change in by directing one of the pair of slaved motors to move the appropriate amount, guessing that the error was part of that "rack" that's available. The rubber bumpers are hardly the most accurate devices, as they're drilled out lab stoppers.

Where do you get those carbide pins?

N

Tool Designer
03-11-2012, 08:31 PM
Thanks for that one!!! I finished up the mechanical assembly of my machine last night- helped in no small part by your series of videos. Some of the design of the machine has changed since you built yours (the R/P tension most notably) but you were very helpful.

It appears that in order to maintain alignment we'll have to be VERY careful around the gantry when it's off? On my machine right now, it's possible to move a single side of the gantry a small amount (1/8?) without the other side starting to move. Same for you? Do you plan to use the properly calibrated machine to set home switches so the gantry can re-set itself if it does get bumped?

In regard to use of the shims- could you have dialed that change in by directing one of the pair of slaved motors to move the appropriate amount, guessing that the error was part of that "rack" that's available. The rubber bumpers are hardly the most accurate devices, as they're drilled out lab stoppers.

Where do you get those carbide pins?

N

In my case I had some spring in the 3x6 beam so I wanted to counter that anyway. The BOB I'm using drive both motors off of the same input and there is no slaving of the motors. I'll have to run for a while to see if that is going to be an issue for my machine. If it is then I switch to over to a slave drive. The Carbide pins I had made from scraped out carbide end mills.

Tool Designer
03-11-2012, 08:36 PM
Here is a video of some Contour milling.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GeJqH1p7V5Q" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Euro3D
03-13-2012, 06:22 PM
Hi Tooldesigner.,

I wired up a three phase plug and lead into the Chinese VFD, each hot leg on R, S and T terminals and the Earth to E, left the neutral unconnected.

I powered up the VFD by plugging in the three phase plug into the three phase wall socket.

There was silence for 5 seconds, no led light on the VFD, then right on 5 seconds a pop and smoke. The VFD popping tripped the three phase circuit breaker on the main board as well as blowing two of the three phase fuses on the main board!

I can't tell if I have done something wrong or the unit was faulty?

Looks like I will have to purchase a hitachi unit that everyone seems to go for when the chinese units don't play ball.

Cheers

John

Euro3D
03-15-2012, 03:52 PM
Hi Tooldesigner,

I have been thinking a lot about why my VFD went pop as I want to avoid making the same mistake again.

I am starting to conclude the HY02D223B (23B is 230V) is not rated for three phases of 230VAC which is 400V across any two hot legs and the reason it got toasted. 400v is way higher than 230VAX

Which means if you want three phase input you would need to go to a 43B.

Do you know if the three phase voltage OUTPUT can be contained to just 220V three phase so the 2.2kw water cooled spindle can be operated by the 43B? The manuals say input voltage matches output, but I am suspecting that is not accurate info?

The 23B may well be rated for three phase of power however the 3 phase is not specific in the advertising or the manual and I am thinking what Huanyang are trying to say is the maximum voltage across any two hot legs on a 23B cannot be greater than 230VAC.

Thoughts?

Cheers

John

alan_3301
03-15-2012, 06:36 PM
Im not at all an electrician, but are you sure you aren't working with ~460v three phase? since each phase is 120 degrees apart, you wouldn't measure full voltage? Have you measured at the receptacle with a voltmeter? I believe 220v three phase should be 220v between any 2 hots.

you can post in your thread so we dont clog up tooldesigners thread, just a thought? :)

Euro3D
03-15-2012, 06:55 PM
Hi Alan

Yes, your spot on, the three phase power I have is 3 hot legs of 230VAC which I measure 399VAC between any two legs, or as you point out correctly called 3 Phase 400VAC.

the theoretical calculation is 1.73 (square root of 3)x 230VAC yields 397.9VAC and I measure 399VAC.

I have shown a picture below of my power outlets, the one on the left is three phase, the one on the right is single phase.

The five pins of the three phase are
N - Neutral
E - Earth
L1 - 230VAC
L2 - 230VAC
L3 - 230VAC
Measuring between L1 and L2, or L2 and L3 the voltage is 400VAC
Measuring between L1 and N, or L2 and N or L3 and N the voltage is 230VAC
Measuring between L1 and E, or L2 and E or L3 and E the voltage is 230VAC
Measuring between N and E the voltage is 0.03VAC

The three pins of the single phase are
N - Neutral
E - Earth
L1 - 230VAC

So my three phase is 400VAC and not 230VAC as I originally thought and the most likely reason I cooked the VFD!

I can't change to a VFD rated for 3phase 380VAC input because the output is 380VAC and spindle needs 220V.

So looks like I will have to revert to using single phase 240VAC which lowers the efficiency of the VFD but not much I can do unless I change spindles as well.

I am happy to burn and learn on the cheaper chinese gear then wear it out then go for some better quality armed with the knowledge of what to do and not do with VFD's and spindles, all good learning.

allengambrell
03-19-2012, 12:48 PM
How did you drill out the pullys and the helicoil? I have the same 14mm shafts on my motors with the 1/2 hole in the pulleys and coil.

Tool Designer
03-19-2012, 07:42 PM
How did you drill out the pullys and the helicoil? I have the same 14mm shafts on my motors with the 1/2 hole in the pulleys and coil.

On a lathe with a 3 jaw chuck and a drill. However the middle sprang out so it ended up under size in that area. I then finish ground the inside with a Dremel and a small sanding barrel. If I ever do another one, I'll put it in a vice with v-jaws and interpolate the hole with an end mill.

allengambrell
03-19-2012, 08:22 PM
Thanks for the info, but I talked to cncrp and they will bore them out for me.

Also what microstep settings are you using with the controllers? I have the 878oz motor kit, and am trying to figure out the microstep and motor tuning(to get them smooth and close) before mounting them on the machine.

Analias
04-22-2012, 12:44 AM
Tool Designer, what are specs on your e-chain (dimensions and length for each axis)? I'm trying to decide what I need for my machine.

Tool Designer
04-22-2012, 09:22 AM
Tool Designer, what are specs on your e-chain (dimensions and length for each axis)? I'm trying to decide what I need for my machine.

Hello Analias, here is what I used:
Igus Cable Carrier Energy Chain 15.050.048 18" Long (Z13)
Igus Cable Carrier Energy Chain 250.05.055 44" (Z27)
Igus Cable Carrier Energy Chain 250.05.055 40" (Z25)

18" is about the shortest you want for the Z-Axis
40" is about the shortest you want for ether X or Y axis's.

I bought mine from this person on ebay:
items in igus store on eBay! (http://stores.ebay.com/Automation-Wholesale/_i.html?_nkw=igus&submit.x=13&submit.y=14&LH_TitleDesc=1&_sid=187186941)

Analias
04-22-2012, 12:06 PM
Hello Analias, here is what I used:
Igus Cable Carrier Energy Chain 15.050.048 18" Long (Z13)
Igus Cable Carrier Energy Chain 250.05.055 44" (Z27)
Igus Cable Carrier Energy Chain 250.05.055 40" (Z25)

18" is about the shortest you want for the Z-Axis
40" is about the shortest you want for ether X or Y axis's.

I bought mine from this person on ebay:
items in igus store on eBay! (http://stores.ebay.com/Automation-Wholesale/_i.html?_nkw=igus&submit.x=13&submit.y=14&LH_TitleDesc=1&_sid=187186941)

Thank you, and thanks for the URL. The machine geek (aka. the little boy) loves looking at sites like that. Reminds me of the days I would spend an afternoon sifting through junk at Weird Stuff in San Jose. After eBay came along they were never quite the same.

chagocnc1
04-23-2012, 10:07 AM
COULD TOY SHARE YOUR MACH3 XML FILE? i WILL BE A GOOD START FOR MY BUILUP.

THANKS,

krduramax
04-24-2012, 09:32 AM
I have also built the CRP4848 router with the NEMA 23 package for Ahren. So I have the Gecko 540 controller. My question to you is,"Do you like your Chinese spindle and the VFD that came with it"? I have been told not to get the chinese VFD and go with Hitachi VFD. I can get the spindle and VFD at a better price. Just wanted your opinion. As do you know if I can control the spindle in mach 3 with the Gecko G540 drivers? It does offer a 0-10 volt for VFD connection! I wanted to control the on/off and RPM of the spindle from Mach3. Thanks for you advise!!!

vtx1029
04-24-2012, 10:24 AM
I have also built the CRP4848 router with the NEMA 23 package for Ahren. So I have the Gecko 540 controller. My question to you is,"Do you like your Chinese spindle and the VFD that came with it"? I have been told not to get the chinese VFD and go with Hitachi VFD. I can get the spindle and VFD at a better price. Just wanted your opinion. As do you know if I can control the spindle in mach 3 with the Gecko G540 drivers? It does offer a 0-10 volt for VFD connection! I wanted to control the on/off and RPM of the spindle from Mach3. Thanks for you advise!!!

Yes you can control a VFD with a gecko 540. I'm using a router and a super pid with my g540 having mach 3 control it. Its really the same thing for a VFD.

krduramax
04-24-2012, 11:37 AM
Tooldesigner,
I was just wondering if you like your chinese spindle/VFD setup. I have been told to buy the spindle but not the VFD. It was recommended to me to go with a hitachi VFD. What are your thoughts on the chinese VFD and is it easy to setup and get running? Or should I go with a different VFD?

krduramax
04-24-2012, 11:44 AM
VTX1029,
Do you like your router with the Super-PID setup? Or would you go with the chinese spindle? As you can see I'm trying to decide on going with the chinese spindle or the router with the super-PID controller? Any thoughts would be helpful. I just finished a CRP4848 router and now to the point of what to put on it. Will be doing mostly wood and some plastic.

vtx1029
04-24-2012, 03:03 PM
VTX1029,
Do you like your router with the Super-PID setup? Or would you go with the chinese spindle? As you can see I'm trying to decide on going with the chinese spindle or the router with the super-PID controller? Any thoughts would be helpful. I just finished a CRP4848 router and now to the point of what to put on it. Will be doing mostly wood and some plastic.

The good thing about the router is if my router fails I can easily yank it off, run to the local hardware store and buy another one and be up and running the same day.

The super PID works great! I really wish I would have purchased one sooner. With the super PID & Precise bits collets my router has done everything I have asked it to do.

But for all out use I think the spindle/vfd would be a better choice if you can swing the extra $$$. I may get a spindle some day, If I do I will go with the Hitachi vfd.

Analias
05-01-2012, 11:47 PM
I only have 3 wires coming in to the VFD, 2 110 hot and 1 neutral. The neutral is grounded at my mains power box.

Tool Designer, could you give me specifics on how your VFD is wired? I'm looking at the manual for the Hitachi X200. It shows wiring for single and triple phase power. The X200-022NFU can handle either. I see three or four terminals on the X200 that need to be wired to depending on single or triple phase input. I can only assume the single phase is for 220VAC 2-wire (hot/neutral) and ground, not 110VAC. Assuming the pin names are standard (L1, L2, L3/N, ground), how did you wire your two hots and the neutral into the VFD? [It looks like the 3-phase model uses the same pins and are labeled R/L1, S/L2, T/L3, ground]

Since I'm working on my shop and I have capacity in my main panel, I ran a 100A sub-panel to the shop. I used 3 wire (2 hots and a neutral) and a ground to run them. From the X200 docs, I sized for 30A 220 VAC circuit for the VFD.

How do I run this into the X200? I initially bought three-prong 220V@30A turnlock outlets and plugs - Now I'm second guessing myself. Do I need four-prong?

Analias
05-02-2012, 12:05 AM
From this thread on another board, New VFD wiring & setup [Archive] - The Home Shop Machinist & Machinist's Workshop Magazine's BBS (http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/archive/index.php/t-27115.html). It looks like I connect the hots (black and red) to L1 & L2, and run the neutral or ground to the L3/N tab or the ground tab on the X200.

Does this look right? If yes, should I run the ground tab/L3 to the equipment ground in the sub-panel and let the neutral float? The ground and neutral are separated in the sub-panel and the neutral is _NOT_ bonded to the equipment ground (but they are bonded together back at the main panel).

If the above looks good, can I use the three-prong 30A outlet/plug that I purchased and run the ground (there is a green screw marked ground), or should I use a four-prong?

Analias
05-02-2012, 12:15 AM
I hate replying to my own posts, but rereading the other thread it looks like I need four-wire: L1/L2 (black/red), L3/N (neutral), and Ground to the ground tab. Wired up just like a four-wire range. So I need a four-prong outlet/plug.

If I'm wrong, please catch me before I do something stupid :D

Frankmali17
09-03-2012, 09:44 PM
Hello Tool Designer...
First.. great job on maching and video posts...

I seen Longs Motor stuff on Ebay...
After some time on your machine...
Do you feel that these motors they sell are really as good as they claim?

Has everything been working well for you..
CNCRP seems to thing the 960oz-in motors they offer are great...
I am looking to cut cabinet parts from plywood and melamine.
THe Long's Motor stuff can be bought direct, at a savings.. I just wanted to know if you feel that the seem to perform to the specs they claim.

Do you remember what kit you got?
THanks
Frankmali17@yahoo.com

Tool Designer
09-04-2012, 06:51 PM
Hello Tool Designer...
First.. great job on maching and video posts...

I seen Longs Motor stuff on Ebay...
After some time on your machine...
Do you feel that these motors they sell are really as good as they claim?

Has everything been working well for you..
CNCRP seems to thing the 960oz-in motors they offer are great...
I am looking to cut cabinet parts from plywood and melamine.
THe Long's Motor stuff can be bought direct, at a savings.. I just wanted to know if you feel that the seem to perform to the specs they claim.

Do you remember what kit you got?
THanks
Frankmali17@yahoo.com


First off I do not want to discourage anyone from considering the motors or electronics that CNC Router Parts sell. They have spent a lot of time combining a very excellent system for their machine kits and have made them Plug & Play. There is a difference between the motors they sell and Longsmotors. The inductance of Longs motors is much higher and the power supply's provided are lower then what the motors should probably run at voltage wise. They are now offering kits with more power supply's and with 60 volts. To get the most out of the 1600 size you would need to run close to 100/110 volts, however the drivers can only handle 80 volts max. I myself am looking to buy an unregulated power supply of 72 volts to get more high end speed. However, they currently run very well with the 48 volt supply, I just have to limit the top speed to about 800 IPM rapids. Other then that I have not had any issues as of this date with the kit I purchased. With that being said here is a link to the latest offering that I would recommend.

【US Ship&Free Ship 】4Axis Nema 34 Stepper Motor Dual Shaft 1600oz.in& Driver CNC | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Ship-Free-Ship-4Axis-Nema-34-Stepper-Motor-Dual-Shaft-1600oz-in-Driver-CNC-/271009722118?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f19702f06)

yackback
09-30-2012, 12:17 PM
Here is a video on calibrating the machine.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/CVoU4zVPKZo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I am interested in running this test for myself. Do you have any recommendations on where to get precision ground rods like you were using?

Also what purpose does the square channel that you milled serve?

DonFrambach
10-01-2012, 12:13 AM
I am interested in running this test for myself. Do you have any recommendations on where to get precision ground rods like you were using?


Go to Mcmaster.com
search for "dowel pins"

allen00se
11-18-2013, 01:36 PM
Tool Designer,
I am actually within a week of purchasing my own 4x8 machine and am heavily looking at the CRP48x96. I was just wondering if you had any feedback yet about the quality of the kit. Does it seem like it will hold up well, do you have to re-calibrate often, is it sturdy etc. Just anything that comes to mind now that you have used it for quite some time.
Thanks!

Tool Designer
11-18-2013, 08:23 PM
Hello Allen,
Been quite a while since I posted any thing here. In my opinion, the CRP machines are the most rigid CNC Router kits available. Having been a Cutting tool Engineer and Designer for 34 years I know a fair bit about machine rigidity. The quality is by far well above most kits available today. Above all else, the customer service is far and beyond many. Ahren and gang care very much about what they sell and support it 100%. My suggestion is if you are ready to spend the money, than they are your best bet for success. Recalibration is not usually necessary unless you disassemble the machine or the gantry gets out of whack from a crash or you move it while off. Just keep it clean and lubed, preventative maintenance, and you will be running for a long time. My best to you and your adventure.

Tool Designer
11-18-2013, 08:37 PM
Hello everyone. For those of you that sent PM's and asked questions on my video's that I have not responded to, please except my apologies. I have had a few changes in my life both work and family health issues to attend to for about a 1-1/2 years. All is well for now. I hope to respond to everyone's questions soon. Also, I plan on doing more video's in the near future about the CRP machine and Machining 101 type stuff. So if anyone has any requests for topics, please fell free to ask. In the works right now is converting my machine into an open frame machine, for quick change fixture plates and a low cost 4th axis. Stay tuned my friends. My best to everyone. Tool Designer.

nlancaster
11-19-2013, 08:30 PM
Also on the side of CNRP if you want to get a machine that is a little custom. IE I am looking at a machine that is 4x2 so instead of a CRP2448 it wouldbe a CRP4824. Not the prov model but a standard machine. Ahren was more then willing to do that kind of customization at a very reaonsable price.

Frankmali17
11-20-2013, 10:14 AM
Mr Tool Designer,
I have been hoping you would come back to us :-) I hope you and your family is well.
I / We have become quite fond of your knowledge and videos.
I am getting ready to order a 4x8 kit... and I love the info and what I was able to learn from you.
We look forward to any new things you can share and even shoot an unedited video of.

Jerry In Maine
11-20-2013, 12:33 PM
I'm considering the CRP 4848. A bit gun shy though because I just bought a $3k machine that turns out I can't use. I have the Chinese water cooled 2.2 kw spindle which is a bit heavier than the typical router. With the current machine the gantry would sag about 0.07" with the router at the mid-point. I wanted to use the machine for some rather delicate carving and the gantry sag just ruins things. Do you think the CRP4848 gantry would support this spindle w/o sagging Figure its at least twice as heavy as a router...

ahren
11-20-2013, 02:14 PM
Jerry,

The CRP4848 uses a 3" x 6" extrusion for the gantry. Using 8020's deflection calculator, a 50 pound load on the center of a 60" piece (the length of our gantry) yields 0.0015" of deflection. That's being conservative, as the gantry is supported slightly in-board from the ends, so the unsupported span is closer to 50", which yields a 0.0008" deflection number. Hope that helps!

Best regards,

Ahren
CNCRouterParts (http://www.cncrouterparts.com)

Jerry In Maine
11-20-2013, 02:20 PM
It sure does help! I'll place my order today..

nlancaster
11-20-2013, 03:33 PM
Plus you also have the cold rolled steel rails standing vertical attached to the gantry beam. So I bet deflection is even lower then that.

Jerry In Maine
11-20-2013, 04:02 PM
I haven't weighed that spindle but I don't think it weighs much more than 20#.
Placed the order for the CRP4848....informed of a possible 3-4 week lead time. Business must be good...

Tool Designer
11-21-2013, 06:35 PM
A question for everyone. I am currently in the design stage of a 4th rotary axis. Design criteria is: Cost, Accuracy, Quick setup, and Maintenance. Right now I'm torn as to the drive head shaft configuration. Options as follows: 1-8 thread with or w/o Morse taper (to use standard lathe drives and chucks), Face Plate with Morse taper (lathes drives and face mounted chucks), R-8 or C-5 collet drive, or ER32 Collet drive. What would your preference be, keeping in mind the first 2 would be lower cost. Your thoughts would be appreciated. Tool Designer.

Frankmali17
11-21-2013, 07:00 PM
Hello Mr Ahren,
You guys are getting a lot of attention...
How are the new kits working out?...
I am curiously watching how the new rail system is working out....
As mentioned in this thread, the 3x6 extrusion, along with the steel rails, should be quite stiff.
The new system uses a 1/2" x 3/4" system with V Groove bearings....
It seems that the Z axis floats off of these rails.

I guess my question is weather your testing shows comparable stiffness or rigidity with the previous design?
Also, is it true that the Pro kit has slightly more travel that the older model?
Could one order a 4x8 kit with the side extrusion one continuous length rather than spliced?

Where are you sourcing your V-Groove bearings... .I notice some of these bearings develop some slight movement under axial load? Like if you were pushing sideways on the bearing.... I would hope yours won't develop these problems...

In summary, thanks for your responses in advance, and congratulations on your growth, and development.

I'm considering a 4x8 kit.

Jerry In Maine
12-17-2013, 05:35 PM
I have my CRP4848 built but having a bit of trouble getting the X axes bearings adjusted. My Y and Z axes are smooth as glass though.
I get a little binding here and there as I slide the gantry back and forth. To fix this I moved the gantry to the spot of most friction and adjusted there by lightly squeezing with clamps and tightening the riser mount bolts. This smoothed things out but but I notice that I can then rotate some of the horizontal bearings with my finger. If I move the gantry some those bearings might stop freely rotating and others might spin free. Its as if they touch the steel in some places along the ways but not in others. I can't get full free movement of the gantry if all horizontal bearings touch the steel, regardless of how "lightly" I adjust.

garywilson4
07-03-2014, 05:27 PM
hi TD
did you ever figure out why your spindle ran in reverse? if not i think i read somewhere if you swap any 2 of the wires to the spindle it runs the correct direction (not the earth obviously)

Tool Designer
10-22-2014, 06:33 PM
Hello everyone. It's been a long time since I have posted. Well I'm finally getting around to redoing my garage to turn it into a wood shop. For those interested I am posting some video's of the progress. As soon as I get my floor redone, I will be building a new base for the CRP machine and I'll show that build also. Can't wait to get it out of the basement and into a real shop. Then we can start to have some real fun with it and share some information also. Here is a link to my YouTube Chanel if you want to follow along. Thank you everyone that has been supportive of my endeavors. Be back soon. Here is a link to my YouTube Chanel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrxMdaIXWi_2EXNiLS3RikQ