View Full Version : RFQ: 3D Black ABS Part + Creating mold

12-09-2011, 06:44 PM
I`m making a camera accessory in small quantities, and I`d like to learn more about CNCing to see if it can help. To that end, I`d like to see how much one of the parts would cost to mill from black ABS, and to find out what kind of quality I should expect, compared to FDM 3D printing. I`m after a matte black finish that would look good next to a DSLR camera, without requiring the hours of sanding the FDM parts need.

I`d also like to find out how much it was cost to make an aluminum mold of the part, suitable for use with urethane resin, I`m thinking this might be the best way to go for the first hundred units. I`m located in Murrieta, California.

(STL file, 143x67x10.5mm)

12-09-2011, 11:07 PM
Can you post a picture or something, I'm pretty leary about downloading stuff like this. Is idruna.com your website?

12-09-2011, 11:58 PM
Sorry, I wasn't able to attach the zip here. I`ll try attaching a screen shot.

12-10-2011, 11:49 AM

I was able to open your STL file with Solidworks but couldn't get the dimensions, there seems to be some kind of error. Could you post an IGS drawing of the part?

I believe painting finish would make your part a great match to the camera.

If it's worth making a mold depends on your quantity.


12-13-2011, 11:39 AM

I can open the STL in SolidWorks also but I am having trouble with dimensions.
Can you send me (or post) an iges or step file? Also a PDF showing what are the critical dimensions, what's tapped, etc.

Please send files to briscoe_machining@hotmail.com

If the part is milled a problem would be the square pockets you have. They will need to have some kind of radius on them.

If you think you can get a good part (with no air bubbles) then a mold is the way to go here if you are going to making 100+ parts. I can't tell how thin some of those sections are until I get a model I can measure but you might have a real problem getting the mold to fill all the way. You would need to goto an high pressure injection mold to solve that problem- and THAT is very expensive.


Brad Briscoe
Briscoe Machining LLC

12-15-2011, 11:50 PM
Hi Brad, Hugo,

I used MeshLab to convert the STL to DXF, this may or may not work better: http://idruna.com/TopDxf.zip

For the interior pockets I can add a radius, I`d just need to know a suitable value.

I`m using threaded inserts, so no tapping.

The thinnest wall is 1mm. I made a silicon mold of the more complicated bottom part, and it worked surprisingly well for a first attempt. I just had so many underhangs the mold ripped, so I`ve been eliminating them for this design.

12-16-2011, 06:39 AM
I`m attaching a shot of the bottom part of the design, I would greatly value some feedback on whether the hinge design would be suitable for CNCing. The battery door part would have a corresponding indent. I know it would come out too rough from a FDM printer.

12-23-2011, 01:50 AM
Had a lot of problems with people being unable to read my STL files. I decided the best way to learn about CNCing my design would be to buy a Taig based Deepgroove1 mill, I`m hoping it will arrive next week. Thanks everyone for your replies.