PDA

View Full Version : Problem Electronics Setup 8056D Drivers



dugpits
08-29-2011, 07:17 PM
So...the problem is....I don't know what I'm doing. :withstupi

Have 3x570 oz motors, 8056D drivers, 48v 12.5A PS, C10 BOB, bunch-o-wire.

Now what?

Electricity and grounding and all this stuff makes me nervous 'cause i don't work with it much.

SO...from reading around, I hook AC to PS, PS to C10, C10 to Drivers, Drivers to Motors. That right?

Regarding the PS, do I need a 3 prong plug or will the 2 prong I have on hand suffice - I read some about the FG plug saying not used or something but it needs to be the 3rd prong ground... What do I need to do to make sure I'm safe with this setup?

Really don't feel confident about what I'm doing so looking for some guidance. Shouldn't be difficult, but I prefer not to get any un-expected shocks or fry any of my equipment.

Also ordered a C6 board that should be in later in the week for spindle control, heard it needs a different ground - might have questions about that after I get the first setup going.

Thanks for the help,

Doug

rpovey
08-29-2011, 08:31 PM
There is a wiring diagram on Kelings site, just follow that.
You connect 5v to the C10, but 48V to each of the drivers.
Personally I'm using a 3 prong power connector with FG connected to the plug ground.
I'd suggest connecting one driver all the way through to the stepper and verify it works with Mach or EMC, once you've done that the rest is straight forwards.

dugpits
09-02-2011, 11:55 PM
So, I hooked everything up for 1 motor (X axis) according to the schematic from the Keling site for the 5056 with C10 Board.

http://kelinginc.net/KL-5056WithC10.pdf

I am running 8056D drivers, but the setup should be the same.

Jumped pin 10 to 5v for estop. Jumped master enable on the 5v input side. Jumped Dir+ and Pul+ on the driver as per schematic above.

Jumpers are checked on BOB ok. (I think, I don't really understand the pull-up, pull-down jumpers, but the pin 2-9 are set as output)

Configured Mach 3. Found port address (add in card), address is D888 for my PCI board. Says it is LPT3 so used port 3 where applicable. Activated x axis with pins 8 and 9. Tried both toggled low active on and off in Mach.

The digital drivers are supposed to have an auto-detect feature for the pulse/per rev, but I went ahead and set the dip switches to 1600 per, set my steps per..in mach 3 to 8000 since when I get it hooked to machine it is a 5 TPI ballscrew.

Getting NOTHING...no motion at all out of the motor. I let everything sit there for a while...a few hours. The PS got warm (not hot), the motor got warm, the driver got warm - so I know there is a least power flowing. Tried the MDI input and the jog control.

Read some posts, manuals, watched the video off the mach site for setting up...I still don't know what I am doing wrong. (I've tried every permutation of set-ups I could think of).

I'm a little frustrated.:tired:

Any ideas? What did I do wrong here? Is this the wrong place to ask? (sorry if so)

Thanks for the help,

Doug

ger21
09-03-2011, 07:00 AM
Says it is LPT3 so used port 3 where applicable.

Assign it to Port1. Mach3 only supports 2 parallel ports, Port 1 and Port 2.

The LPT # has nothing to do with which port # Mach3 uses.

dugpits
09-03-2011, 10:09 AM
Thanks Gerry,

Yeah, I wasn't thinking about the 2 port assignments...duh.

However, I originally had them assigned to port 1 in mach since that's what all the tutorials had....didn't get anything with it assigned Port 1 either.

I will try again to verify. Actually, just hooked it up...no movement with Port 1.

So...is there any way to test this in a methodical manner? Obviously I'm getting power since everything is getting 'warm' - and the green light is on driver and the red LED is lit on the C10.

Is there a way to check to see if any actual signal is getting through?

I've tried checking with a meter to different pins...and I'm getting 5v where I think I'm supposed to. (master enable to gnd, +5v to gnd, etc).

I tried this since I read it on a thread somewhere - when I set everything up and I jog, the Step Pin (Pin 8) reads a voltage of about .1 volt, drops to zero when stop jogging. Pin 9 jumps from 0 to 5v depending on the direction I jog which also makes sense since it is the dir pin. (Doesn't change when I stop jogging, only changes on direction change)

So that seems to work (right?)

So is the problem at the wiring of the driver? Or are there more things that could be wrong at the BOB side? How can I check the driver?

Thanks again,

Doug

ger21
09-03-2011, 10:21 AM
If the Direction pin is 0V one way, and 5V the other way, then Mach3 is working correctly.

The motors should lock up if the drives are working.

Possibly you have the step and direction wired wrong at the drives?

rpovey
09-03-2011, 12:28 PM
Taking step back is the DRO changing in Mach when you jog?
The diagram is for active low signaling, so you should set the jumper on the C10 so that common is 5V, though if you have Sherline mode set like the Mach setup instructions on Kelings site says you'll get motion either way.

First thing to establish is that the direction pin on the C10 is changing 0-5V when you change the jog direction, if not it's the mach setup that's the issue.
Assuming you don't have a scope, there is no easy way to verify the step pin, but if the dir pin is working it's likely fine.

dugpits
09-03-2011, 04:38 PM
rpovey -

I changed the jumper to 5v, it was on common. I had tried the sherline 1/2 pulse mode before but got nothing, with or without the active low checked.

When i switched the jumper to 5v, i got...VERY choppy motion at best, but I could tell it was sending some kind of signal. I then put it in the sherline 1/2 mode and it ran smooth. (Yay!)

I changed the driver settings to make it 2000 steps/rev (1/10 microstepping), and set the mach to 10,000 per inch (5 TPI ballscrew). It didn't really want to work this way, so I played with the accel/velocity and step/dir pulse delays and got it to run smooth....but the number of steps seems like something is off. I line up the flat, zero it out, and move .2 inches = 1 rev...but I don't get 1 rev. I was using a G0 command, so I used a feed command...slow at 5 ipm, and got 1 rev.

In short - needs some tweaking. If anyone has any quick tips on that, great, otherwise I will just play with it until I get it going.

Also, can someone please explain what the Sherline 1/2 pulse is really doing?

Thanks again rpovey and Gerry for helping get this thing going

-Doug

rpovey
09-03-2011, 08:02 PM
You shouldn't have to set sherline mode. Having said that it won't hurt.
According to the driver docs, any pulse width over 3us should be fine.
I have Sherline mode disabled, set up for active low pulse, and the pulse duration set to 5 on my mach setup and it works fine.

If your losing steps in G0, it's likely that you acceleration is too high, try an acceleration of 5 (assuming your in inches), and work up until you start losing steps, then use 2/3 of that.

You should also momentarily flip switch 4 on and off, it triggers the automatic tuning for the motor. It actually does mention this in the manual, but it's pretty well hidden.

Sherline mode effectively changes the pulse width to the entire period of one mach kernel timeslice, this 1/2s the maximum pulse output rate, but allows you to bypass the maximum 15us pulse length in mach. It's not necessary for these drivers, but with it enabled the driver will likely work even if the active high/low step setting is incorrect. I suspect this is why Keling suggests setting it.

Mad Welder
09-04-2011, 07:22 AM
In short - needs some tweaking. If anyone has any quick tips on that, great, otherwise I will just play with it until I get it going.




For a quick and easy to understand explanation have a look all nine short videos, here is the one explaining the correct selection of driver step allocation and can be applied to any setup by inserting your own TPI and motor specs.
CNC Electronics 8.mp4 - YouTube

Good luck with the project.:cheers:

dugpits
09-10-2011, 01:14 AM
So...my power supply works. Outputs 48v.

However, I was looking at it trying to figure out how to mount it in a case when I noticed that the fan had a cord laying loose in it - and I recalled I never remember the fan coming on and the PS had seemed to get pretty warm.

So, I took the cover off, and there is a loose cord. I don't know if it is supposed to be loose or not, but it was caught up in the fan.

This cord has a white connector, 2 wires, 1 white/1 black. A similar cord is plugged into a white connector on the board at the very "bottom back right" if looking in from the fan side. (see pic).

A similar connector is behind the 2 yellow blocks on the left side (you can't see connector in pic but it is back there).

Do I need to connect this? Seems the power cord to the fan was connected, I don't know if this cord tells the fan when to run..??

A zip tie holding several wires together make the wire in question barely able to reach the empty connector.

Any thoughts appreciated.

Thanks,

Doug

Mad Welder
09-10-2011, 02:49 PM
My Keling KL-600-48 Switching Power Supply, Keling Technology Inc, USA (http://www.kelinginc.net/SwitchingPowerSupply.html) power supplie's fan is on full time and the PS never heats up.

A solution for you is to look up the specs of your power supply, if you have a multi meter test the Volts from the connecter, check the required supply for the fan and if both are the same and the connector fits the fans connector, and your specs suggest fan needs to be on then it looks likely that the connector fell off or as you suggest the tension on the cable tie most likely just disconnected it.

dugpits
09-16-2011, 02:20 PM
My Keling KL-600-48 Switching Power Supply, Keling Technology Inc, USA (http://www.kelinginc.net/SwitchingPowerSupply.html) power supplie's fan is on full time and the PS never heats up.

A solution for you is to look up the specs of your power supply, if you have a multi meter test the Volts from the connecter, check the required supply for the fan and if both are the same and the connector fits the fans connector, and your specs suggest fan needs to be on then it looks likely that the connector fell off or as you suggest the tension on the cable tie most likely just disconnected it.

Thanks Eoin,

I did just end up plugging the connector in to see what would happen. Seems to work now. Doesn't run all the time, just as it needs it to keep the temp down...so I guess it's all good to go!

Mad Welder
09-16-2011, 03:11 PM
I did just end up plugging the connector in to see what would happen......
so I guess it's all good to go!


ha sounds like something I'd do just plug it in and see what happens:D:D
Just a tiny bit of advice though that's not a good idea:nono: and it doesn't always work…..and sometimes can cause more damage than good....

But either way glad to hear you got sorted