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chadcummings
03-02-2011, 07:54 PM
I want to start by saying that while I am going to show step by step how I assembled my machine, this is no way an exact method. This is my first machine and I am hoping to make some mistakes and learn from this process and hopefully help someone else NOT make the same mistakes.

I will be open to ideas throughout the process and may adjust things on how I do them like routing of wires and other items based on feedback from this group.

So, the FedEx Santa came yesterday and "DROPPED" 3 boxes off. For the trip they made, the boxes are not as bad as I expected.

After a careful inventory I looked over each item to make sure there was no obvious problems from shipping.

I must say that from the looks of the items, they could have held up to WAY much more abuse. These things are VERY rugged.

The boxes did have a couple of holes in them so I emailed George the list below to make sure I am not missing a screw or something from this shipment.

Here is what came in the boxes: (forgive my ley terms)
2 - 7525 47" aluminum box tubes
2 - 47 1/4" x 25mm SS rods
1 - 4' ball screw with brackets for each end and mount for double nut
2 - CNC end plates
1 - 8" Z frame
1 - 24" Y frame
8 - slotted table tops pieces
3 - NEMA motor mounts
1 - 6' cable chain
40 - T slot nuts
42 - 20mmxM6 counter sunk bolts
12 - long hex head motor mount bolts
2 - grease fittings
16 - 25mmxM6 hex bolt
25 - 22mmxM6 hex bolt
1 - motor coupling for Y axis

Talking about customer service, George received my email on his blackberry and immediately called me to make sure everything was ok. You will NEVER find anyone who has a genuine care about their products like George does.

Below you will find a picture of the entire shipment of parts resting on the table that will be used as their final resting place. This thing is impressive!

Stay tuned for the build!
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=127887&d=1299113603

chadcummings
03-02-2011, 10:40 PM
So it is day 2 in the build and I have decided that I am only going to work between 1-2 hours a day until it is done.

A couple of things to remember before you get started:
1) Use the included scrub cloth to go over all of your parts to get any grime off that may have happened during shipping; this also works great to get the ink off the end pieces and buff them up.
2) Make sure there are no burs left in holes, threads or edges of pieces to cause you a problem. Use a flat file and the scrub cloth to remove and return to like new condition.
3) ALWAYS start screws by hand!!!
4) Bolts do not need to be overtightened. If you are worried about them backing out, use Locktight on them.

Tools you will need:
4mm T-handle Allen wrench (used for motor mount bolts and counter sunk bolts)
5mm T-handle Allen wrench (used for 25mm-M6 bolts for securing the end pieces to the box tubing and SS rods)
5mm 90 deg Allen wrench (used for 25mm-M6 bolts everywhere else)

STEP 2:
I am beginning this at STEP 2 due to the fact that the first thing anyone should do upon receiving their CNC is to do an inventory.

Make sure you clear your work area good so that you will not be falling over your parts.

If you purchased adjustable legs for the end plates, mount them now.

If you are like me and did not know you could get them until the end plates came in, you will need adjustable legs that are threaded to a M8-1.25 thread.


STEP 3:
In this step you will need:
1 - End Plate (motor mount side)
2 - Box tubing
6 - 25mm-M6 hex bolts (longer of the M6 bolts)
2 - 2" wooden support blocks

1) Finger tighten bolts through the end plate and into the box tubing
2) Place far end of box tubing on 2" blocks
3) Snug bolts attaching box tubing to end cap, you will tighten these later during alignment process.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=127946&stc=1&d=1299123421

STEP 4:
In this step you will need:
1 - ball screw
1 - ball screw clamp
4 - 22mm-M6 hex bolts (shorter of the M6 bolts)
6 - 25mm-M6 hex bolts (already in ball screw clamp)
1 - 13/4" wooden block

1) Remove bolts from ball screw clamp
2) Make sure to clear the clamp of any burs before this step. The more time you spend polishing the inside of the clamp the smoother and easier it is to mount.
3) Slide clamp onto ball screw and tighten bolts using the same alternating method you would when changing a tire on your car.
4) Slide bearing block over bearing on motor coupling side of ball screw.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=127947&stc=1&d=1299123489
5) Slide coupling through hole in end plate.
6) Place ball screw clamp onto wooden block to make level with rear hole.
7) Bolt bearing block to rear plate using shorter hex bolts.

My little helper!
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=127948&stc=1&d=1299123489

STEP 5:
In this step you will need:
4 - 22mm-M6 hex bolts (shorter of the M6 bolts)
1 - Front plate
1 - small bearing mount

1) Install small bearing plate on backside of Front plate using 4 of the 22mm-M6 hex bolts and tighten.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=127949&stc=1&d=1299123489

STEP 6:
In this step you will need:
4 - counter sunk bolts
4 - T-slot buts
1 - T-slot plate

1) Holding the T-slot nut with the small nub facing away from the T-slot plate, install the bolt through the plate and into the nut. Turn only until the threads take hold.
2) Repeat until all 4 nuts and bolts are installed into the T-slot plate.
3) On end of frame that does NOT have an end plate, slide t-slot nuts into slot on top edge of box tubing.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=127950&stc=1&d=1299123489
4) Slide plate to the far end of frame ensuring you keep plate square with frame as to not bind it in on the rail.
5) DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS YET!
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=127951&stc=1&d=1299123489

STEP 7:
In this step you will need:
20 - counter sunk bolts
20 - T-slot buts
5 - T-slot plate

1) Repeat STEP 6 a total of 5 more times.
2) DO NOT TIGHTEN BOLTS YET!!!
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=127952&stc=1&d=1299123489

chadcummings
03-03-2011, 10:08 PM
Ok, Day three is here and this is where I finish for a couple of days until more parts come in.

STEP 8:
In this step you will need:
2 - SS round rods
2 - 25mm-M6 hex bolts
2 - 2 34/" wooden blocks

1) Bolt each SS round rod to the rear end plate but do not tighten.
2) Prop up opposite end of SS round rod.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=128032&stc=1&d=1299207923


STEP 9:
In this step you will need:
1 - Main carriage for Y-axis
2 - 22mm-M6 hex bolts
2 - 3/4" wooden blocks

1) Ensure you have adequate room on the table to place the Y-axis in front of your table. If you do not have room, take a minute and make room.
2) Set Y-axis in front of table top and place wooden blocks under bottom to bring to proper height.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=128033&stc=1&d=1299207923

3) Gently position bearing blocks so that SS round rod begins to enter them.
4) Slowly push Y-axis back into position carefully making sure you do not bind bearing blocks. Position Y-axis so that the ball nut clamp is over the bottom brace where the T-slot nuts are located.
5) Finger start screws.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=128034&stc=1&d=1299207923


STEP 10:
In this step you will need:
1 - Front plate

1) Position front plate so that front bearing block and SS round rod holes are lined up and push into place. This will center the Y-axis bearing clamp.
2) Turn roller bearing over 4-5 times in each direction to ensure it will not bind or is bent.
3) Tighten hex bolts for Y-axis bearing clamp.
4) Remove front plate a set aside.
5) While doing this I noticed the cross brace on the Y-axis was loose. You can tighten these with a 2.5mm Allen wrench.


STEP 11:
In this step you will need:
2 - T-slot plates
8 - T-slot nuts
8 - counter sunk bolts

1) Repeat STEP 6 ensuring you slide all the plates to the far end.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=128035&stc=1&d=1299207923


STEP 12:
In this step you will need:
1 - Front plate
8 - 25mm-M6 hex bolts

1) Align front plate with roller bearing front bearing and SS round rods and press into place.
2) Install hex bolts through front plate into round rods and box frame. Ensure box frame is flush on top when you tighten.
3) Go back and align and tighten far side bolts securing box frame as above.
4) Evenly space and Align T-slot plates and tighten bolts.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=128036&stc=1&d=1299207923


STEP 13: (OOPS!!!)
In this step you will need:
2 - grease fittings (9/32" socket)

1) Remove the T-slot section directly over the Y-axis bearing block to gain access.
2) Remove all blocking you previously put in place.
3) Install grease fittings. You will notice that the grease fittings have approx 1/8" of clearance to the table.

Here is where I have to ask the question. What type of grease should you use?
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=128037&stc=1&d=1299207923


Even though I have not greased yet, I have continued on and will grease later.

STEP 14:
In this step you will need:
1 - Z-axis assembly
4 - 22mm-M6 hex bolts

1) Install Z-axis assembly to Y-axis frame using the above mentioned hex bolts.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=128038&stc=1&d=1299207923

Until the next shipment of parts. Good luck and enjoy.

chadcummings
03-27-2011, 05:10 PM
So it's been a few days but I finally get some time to work on the build.

Sorry for the lack of photo's but my 4 year old lost my camera until today.

So in the first photo, I have added:

1) Porter Cable mount and my PC890 router
2) Wiring harness for each motor with EZ-G540 ends. The EZ-G540 ends have adjustable potentiometers that can be used with any motor you choose.
3) 3/4" MDF scrap board mounted on top of slotted aluminum to prevent damage to table top.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=130090&stc=1&d=1301260142

One thing I ran into was a slight alignment issue when moving across the gantry. A quick email back and forth with George and this was quickly cleared up with a couple of turns of the allen wrench and a minor adjustment of the block holding the ball screw.

The second photo is from the back side of the gantry. I bought some angle aluminum which I plan to drill and them drill/tap the brace across the gantry so that I can mount the angle to act as a tray for the cable chain to ride in.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=130091&stc=1&d=1301260142

chadcummings
03-27-2011, 09:20 PM
Ok, so I figured out a way in which to mount the cable chain.

I purchased a section of 1.5"x1.5" angle aluminum. I figured out how long I wanted it and cut the far end at a 45 and rounded the corners. I then drilled the holes for the bolts to go through.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=130115&stc=1&d=1301275138

I then drilled and tapped the cross brace to match and mounted the angle with M6 round head bolts to alleviate the cable chain from snagging on it.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=130116&stc=1&d=1301275138

I used a wooden spacer to hold the cable chain out approx 1/4" from the angle while I drilled and attached it with 3 small nut/bolts on the 1st, 4th and 7th piece to ensure it would ride straight.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=130117&stc=1&d=1301275138

sagreen
03-29-2011, 04:02 PM
Ok, so I figured out a way in which to mount the cable chain.

I purchased a section of 1.5"x1.5" angle aluminum. I figured out how long I wanted it and cut the far end at a 45 and rounded the corners. I then drilled the holes for the bolts to go through.


Chad,

Looking good! Looks similar to the angle that I used to hold my cable chain in my build log in the DIY area. I used a 1 inch wide strip of double faced tape to hold my angle to the back of the gantry. Used acetone to clean both surfaces and stuck the angle to the gantry. Worked like a champ. The aluminum is real thin, and I wanted to keep any bolts / screws out of that area that would snag the chain.

Scott...
RMGreen Videos - Instructional Videos for Woodworking, CNC, Guitar Building (http://www.rmgvideos.com/)

chadcummings
03-29-2011, 04:34 PM
Chad,

Looking good! Looks similar to the angle that I used to hold my cable chain in my build log in the DIY area. I used a 1 inch wide strip of double faced tape to hold my angle to the back of the gantry. Used acetone to clean both surfaces and stuck the angle to the gantry. Worked like a champ. The aluminum is real thin, and I wanted to keep any bolts / screws out of that area that would snag the chain.

Scott...
RMGreen Videos - Instructional Videos for Woodworking, CNC, Guitar Building (http://www.rmgvideos.com/)

Yeah, the bolt heads were my concern as well. That is why I used a 1/4" piece of wood as a spacer to hold it away from the bolts while I bolted it to the angle.

gio666
03-29-2011, 05:54 PM
You could use button head bolts , be less chance on catching on chain

gio666
03-29-2011, 05:58 PM
or turn the angle around and run chain along top of angle

gio666
03-29-2011, 06:14 PM
Chad,your thread is great and easy to follow,thanks for doing the pic by pic, it helps me out a lot

chadcummings
03-29-2011, 06:24 PM
You could use button head bolts , be less chance on catching on chain

I believe the ones I used are button head, they are rounded over very nice so it does not have a good surface to catch on. I also chose two rows so that the bottom row would hold the chain out away from the top a little if it were to drift over to them.

chadcummings
03-29-2011, 06:26 PM
or turn the angle around and run chain along top of angle

EXCELLENT IDEA!!!

I never thought of that.

I measured as precise as I could by hand but in the end it was still by hand. I tried to flip it around to try and I would have to buy another piece of angle to redo it...it just did not line up exactly.

Next machine I buy I will though. :)

chadcummings
03-29-2011, 06:32 PM
Chad,your thread is great and easy to follow,thanks for doing the pic by pic, it helps me out a lot

No problem.

Where would the DIY community be if it were not from collaboration. :)

This lets me get feedback and ideas and hopefully, helps someone else out in the end.

Next stop is the power supply....just looking for an aluminum/steel enclosure that is approx 10"x10"x3.5".

When I can get that and my new motor couplings arrive, I should be in business.

After I am up and running I will evaluate the need for limit switches.

Any ideas?

sagreen
03-31-2011, 11:06 AM
No problem.

Where would the DIY community be if it were not from collaboration. :)

This lets me get feedback and ideas and hopefully, helps someone else out in the end.

Next stop is the power supply....just looking for an aluminum/steel enclosure that is approx 10"x10"x3.5".

When I can get that and my new motor couplings arrive, I should be in business.

After I am up and running I will evaluate the need for limit switches.

Any ideas?

Chad,

You will want switches to do repeatable homing. Using switches, Mach3 can quickly set your machine to X zero, Y zero A LOT faster than you can do it without them.

Scott...
http://www.rmgvideos.com/

chadcummings
03-31-2011, 06:14 PM
Chad,

You will want switches to do repeatable homing. Using switches, Mach3 can quickly set your machine to X zero, Y zero A LOT faster than you can do it without them.

Scott...
RMGreen Videos - Instructional Videos for Woodworking, CNC, Guitar Building (http://www.rmgvideos.com/)

I have some limit switches but I am not real happy with how to mount them.

I am of half a mind to try something using photoelectric cells. I am a EE so it should not be too difficult.

sagreen
03-31-2011, 07:09 PM
I have some limit switches but I am not real happy with how to mount them.

I am of half a mind to try something using photoelectric cells. I am a EE so it should not be too difficult.

Chad,

Not sure if you've seen it, but take a look at the way I mounted my sensors in this thread http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc_router_table_machines/120902-build_log_rmgvideos_xzero_raptor-10.html Post # 116. Might work for you as well.

Scott
RMGreen Videos - Instructional Videos for Woodworking, CNC, Guitar Building (http://www.rmgvideos.com/)

chadcummings
03-31-2011, 11:02 PM
Chad,

Not sure if you've seen it, but take a look at the way I mounted my sensors in this thread http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc_router_table_machines/120902-build_log_rmgvideos_xzero_raptor-10.html Post # 116. Might work for you as well.

Scott
RMGreen Videos - Instructional Videos for Woodworking, CNC, Guitar Building (http://www.rmgvideos.com/)

:banana: Very nice!!!

I like that.

I'm gonna have to check them out.

chadcummings
04-10-2011, 07:32 PM
So my control box is 85% done. Here is the front and back of it. I still have to install the connectors which will mount below the G540 for the 4 inputs.

These will facilitate the proximity sensors for the 3 axis and the touch probe.

Features of this control box are:

Main DC power supply for G540 and steppers - 42V
Aux DC power supply for proximity sensors - 24V
master on/off power switch w/ led indicator
15A fuse for main AC line
Relay activated AC connector for spindle
G540
120mm and 60mm fans
Emergency kill switch

chadcummings
04-27-2011, 09:08 PM
Well, the inputs finally came in. I have them mounted below the G540.

I still have to wire up my limit switches and install motor couplings...I am working on setting up the software so it is ready as well.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=132670&stc=1&d=1303952889



http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=132669&stc=1&d=1303952836

Galtor
07-07-2011, 09:36 PM
any updates?:bat::bat::bat::bat::bat::bat:

FUBAR62172
07-07-2011, 10:15 PM
how much has the unit cost to build so far?

chadcummings
07-07-2011, 11:13 PM
Sorry, between work and wife, been very busy. I will have updates this weekend. I have been cutting with it and love the machine, still working out tweeks with Mach3.

I now have the proximity switches in place and have a probe/height setter working as well.

All will have pics by Sunday evening.

Galtor
10-25-2011, 03:40 PM
liar liar pants on fire!(chair)