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rustyolddo
07-14-2005, 01:52 PM
This is my Ron Steele conversion mini-mill, it has a few variations
from the plans, it has 5/8" Roton ball screws on all 3 axis, AlSi
Bronse gib strips, driven by the hobbyCNC 4AUPC board & TurboCNC. Still have to add the Zaxis guard & finish tidying up the case for the controller board. I'll be building the 4th axis next, have a 4" rotary table, have the mount already made and the stepper motor is on the way.



Test Run on Lexan, code came from CNCZone downloads (http://www.outdoorsunlimited.net/~chucksmy/Pictures/guinness.jpg)

mxtras
07-14-2005, 02:04 PM
Nice work, rustyolddo!

Are you using a VFD for the spindle? - I see the variable speed box - is that 'stock' or modified?

Scott

itsme
07-14-2005, 04:15 PM
Hi,

Your mill looks impressive. Well done. Have you made anything with it yet? What kind of performance are you getting (speeds etc)?

Regards
Warren

rustyolddo
07-14-2005, 09:35 PM
Nice work, rustyolddo!

Are you using a VFD for the spindle? - I see the variable speed box - is that 'stock' or modified?

Scott

That's stock varible speed on the mini-mill. It has a two speed gearbox as well.

rustyolddo
07-14-2005, 09:38 PM
Hi,

Your mill looks impressive. Well done. Have you made anything with it yet? What kind of performance are you getting (speeds etc)?

Regards
Warren


Just some engraving examples for now. The CAD/CAM software is my next hurdle. THe perfomance tweaking is waiting on a new power supply that should be in place in a week or so. I'm close to 20IPM where it sits but I haven't pushed it thru any metal yet. Just finished it.

Deviant
07-14-2005, 09:54 PM
Do you have any pictures of the X and Y axis during the ballscrew installation?

rustyolddo
07-15-2005, 07:12 AM
Do you have any pictures of the X and Y axis during the ballscrew installation?

No. It wasn't anything exotic. Y axis is configured the same as it was. I made an aluminum block and threaded it for the ballnut & a set screw & placed the ballnut in the rear of the block. I added a thrust bearing to the front of the Y axis support.

The X axis required removing about .125" from the underside of the table and a small area on the saddle. Trial & error fitting. THe X axis is definately a shoehorn fit. Ron Steele sells ballscrew conversion plans, he uses 3/8" ballscrews that work perfectly without modifying the mill, I already had the 5/8" ballscrews and didn't want to shell out the $$ for new ones.

hoagiem
07-16-2005, 05:36 PM
nice work. where did you get the clamps, i have been looking for that type and was about to make some.

rustyolddo
07-18-2005, 03:10 PM
nice work. where did you get the clamps, i have been looking for that type and was about to make some.

Clamps come with the 4" rotary table. They just happened to be handy. I'll post some more pictures when I'm done tidying up everything, the controller, my 4th axis, some of my tooling etc.

One thing that works good for fabricating custom clamps is iron channel. Better than angle iron due to the profile & thickness. You simple half it and mill each segment of the 'L' for the height & width you need and then drill for the stud.


--C

hoagiem
07-18-2005, 07:23 PM
thanks for the tip, i'll give it a try. now that i think about it i have some hold clamps that came in a set for my rotary table that i haven't used yet. i'll have to dig them out. did you cnc your rotary table? i am just curious as to hard it is going to be, i just ordered a motor for mine and the 4th axis stuff to upgrade my controller. looks like it might be an interesting project, otherwise known as a pain in the butt!

have fun

Halfnutz
07-18-2005, 10:27 PM
Congratulations! Looks good, the paint adds a nice touch. It matches perfectly. Now that youve got the bug, whats next? Oh yeah, SOFTWARE! Man, I'm still trying to swallow that pill. I think I'm gonna have to shell out a grand for anything decent on the CAM end, that hurts.

rustyolddo
07-18-2005, 11:52 PM
Congratulations! Looks good, the paint adds a nice touch. It matches perfectly. Now that youve got the bug, whats next? Oh yeah, SOFTWARE! Man, I'm still trying to swallow that pill. I think I'm gonna have to shell out a grand for anything decent on the CAM end, that hurts.

That's the next big step. But frankly, I've gotten to this point, I've got a clue as to how things work, enough so that I can do a few lines of hand code to get what I want, so that megabuck software doesn't scare me as much now. Intimidate me, yes. But if I can get a hands on demo and feel comfortable with what I see, I can stomach the cost I think. Been wanting to learn CAD for years, don't need fancy 3D solid modeling, yet. Want to see what OneCNC has to offer and see if my old brain cells can comprehend it. Already have BobCAD V19, and I'm struggling with it. I was a DOS person for a long time, hand coded uP code in my younger days.

Got a few more goodies to go and a surprise upgrade on the mill that I can't disclose yet but it is an awesome upgrade. I'll have a little web site & photos showing everything once it's all tidy. Standby...

JRouche
07-19-2005, 07:05 PM
Looks good. Did you make the gib strips or find a supplier? I need to replace my gib keys and cannot find a supplier for tapered gib stock. Thanks, JRouche.

rustyolddo
07-20-2005, 09:59 PM
Looks good. Did you make the gib strips or find a supplier? I need to replace my gib keys and cannot find a supplier for tapered gib stock. Thanks, JRouche.


I Made mine on another mill. I bought a piece of SiAl Bronze from Metal Xpress. Surfaced both sides then took my saddle and placed it in the mill vise. Next I placed the bronze stock against the dovetail and held it in place with an adjustable parallel and some ground stock as a spacer. I milled the edge of the gib strip then inverted & repeated. This gave me the precise angle of the dovetail. Dovetails are kinda odd, 55 deg? I stood the saddle on edge and bored the pockets for the set screws.

I would have prefered tapered gibs but too much work. What I discovered was the original gib strips were spot drilled and the setscrews were dog point and since they didn't have a flat pocket to seat against, they cocked the gib strip. My first attempt was surface grinding the original gib strips which made no difference. Had I cut flat pockets for the setscrews, I would have likely kept the original strips.

rustyolddo
10-05-2005, 03:58 PM
Here's an updated wide photo of the mill along with a finished sample of work and a pic of the 4th axis. I'm getting 90ipm rapids. The pockets in the aluminum part were cut with a 2 flute EM at 1700RPM taking .050" per pass. Total of 4 passes for a depth of .200"

http://www.outdoorsunlimited.net/~chucksmy/Amillwide.JPG

http://www.outdoorsunlimited.net/~chucksmy/Amillpart.JPG

http://www.outdoorsunlimited.net/~chucksmy/RT0064.JPG

CerveloRod
10-05-2005, 06:11 PM
Is your rotary table the Phase 2 or the Precision one? I have the Precision version from LMS. I would like to hear how you attached your stepper mount to it.

It looks real good all together like that..

Rod

rustyolddo
10-05-2005, 07:33 PM
Is your rotary table the Phase 2 or the Precision one? I have the Precision version from LMS. I would like to hear how you attached your stepper mount to it.

It looks real good all together like that..

Rod

It's the precision model from LMS

Basically I built a mount and it secures with two set screws to the worm gear support that protrudes once you take the knob & scale off the table. It uses a Ruland coupler to couple the motor to the worm gear shaft. I had to pocket the worm gear support on each end for ball thrust bearings to reduce friction and backlash.

http://www.outdoorsunlimited.net/~chucksmy/RT0056.JPG

http://www.outdoorsunlimited.net/~chucksmy/RT0060.JPG

http://www.outdoorsunlimited.net/~chucksmy/RT0061.JPG

spincaster
01-17-2006, 04:38 PM
I have one of Ron Steele's belt drive kits and am considering the cnc conversion. Did you think Ron's instructions/plans are worth the $? What software are your using? Now that you have had it for a while how do you like it???

Jack

nullbert
09-13-2006, 02:37 PM
Hi,

Thanks for posting pics of your conversion!

Question- with the 5/8" ballscrews & nuts, did you use double nuts on both the X and Y axis?

I'm considering going the 5/8" route for cost savings, but I wasn't sure if the double nuts would limit travel.

Brent

nine 16
09-20-2006, 09:33 PM
I thought I might get away without posting for a while just because there is so much good info available for a new member to digest. Many of my questions have already been answered.

Rustyolddo's comment earlier about his mini mill's gibs being cocked I found to be true with my own Micro Mark mill. It wasn't until I took it thouroghly apart that this was dicovered.

I'm guessing casual owners of this type of machine may have the same situation and not know it.

Just an observation.

Fantastic forum. Many thanks for creating it.

fignoggle
09-22-2006, 12:25 AM
nice powder coating (is it?) on the pieces to match your grizzly!

using double nuts will reduce travel indeed. the problem with this in the x-axis is that you'll need to grind down the housing (unless it's the circular type) to fit under the table (that's how we've done it in test systems). in the y-axis, we can increase travel with the acme/acetal nut combo, but with a single-nut, we don't get the increase in travel.