View Full Version : Need Help! 2.2kw water-cooled spindle smoked then quit!

11-19-2010, 09:03 PM
Is it dead......what can I do? I was setting my VFD up through a g540 after I went through the manual setting up the parameters, did a test run then POOF! What gives? Are these that friggen sensitive?

11-19-2010, 10:41 PM
Could you tell us some more about your settings, what you connected where so we can start trouble shooting. Did you ever get it running from the VFD alone? Also want to check, did you check your water pump was working? Lastly what poofed, the spindle or the VFD?

I have just wired mine up on the test bench and am happy enough with its performance and I used the wiring diagrams floating around the web.

11-19-2010, 10:49 PM
I'll have to get back with my settings. I did have it running with the VFD alone, water cooling system was running fine, finally it was the spindle that started smoking.

11-24-2010, 06:38 PM
Ok. My replacement 1.5kw Huanyang water-cooled spindle is on the way. I did not have the 2.2kw before--it was always a 1.5.

Can someone please post their successful PD settings on the VFD? I have found several listed on this message board however most posts are when problems arise. The dealer only warned not to run below 100hz for a long time. I really do not want to fry another one of these things!

I will be running this off a G540 using Mach 3 should I get another interface card or plug?

I have a thermaltake reservoir/radiator/pump installed that is rated at 400 liters per hour so I really don't think that cooling is an issue.

Please post anything that would make this a success for me the second time around!


11-24-2010, 07:05 PM
I think I may have found what I was looking for.

11-26-2010, 02:24 PM
If it smoked, then quit...

You ran it under-voltage, so that caused amps to be higher than normal... Or... You ran it over-voltage, so the amps+volts exceeded the "normal operation" of the unit. (The thin wires in the coil over-heated, melted the plastic coating, shorted as the ohms dropped, causing even more heat.

If a motor is rated for 1200watts, that is a maximum rating. (Usually) It can sustain loads up to that level, for short periods of time. Constantly, expect to deliver/drive it with half that rating for constant load.

1200 watts = (120v * 10a) or (240v * 5a) or (12v * 100a)
If the Amp rating is only 10a, and you tried to power it with a 12v source, you would fry it. The wires can't handle 100a. Similarly, if the motor says it can handle 120v @ 10a, it can be operated at 240v, as long as the amps are kept below 5a, (Not 10a, because then you are beyond the 1200w limit.)

Remember that load increases amps as it decreases the voltage. The amps rise twice as fast as the voltage drops. So running it at 1200w, with 120v @ 10a, will result in 60v running voltage and 40a running amps under load. 60v * 40a = 2400watts, which is why you normally operate the device with half the wattage...

120v @ 5a (600w)
Loaded, the motor sees...
60v @ 20a (1200w) Which is your limit... Though your amps are high, they are not amps fed-in, they are amps resisted. You are still feeding 5a, solid, or 10a pulsed PWM... The result is inductive load, or magnetic resistance. Thus, the reason the motor heats-up like a 1200w light-bulb. The higher the load, the greater the resistance, the greater need for liquid cooling, to reduce that inductive resistance.

11-29-2010, 12:13 PM
Ok. I am certain that I ran it too low (voltage). I reconfigured the settings at the VFD using the guide I posted earlier. What should be the operating range within Mach 3?