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miles peters
06-17-2010, 10:55 PM
Hi I am a fence builder who is to stupid to know he can’t put a plasma table together so I’v ordered a 4 foot gantry from Dynatorth and I’m about to start to build an 8 foot table I am hoping to be able to pick some brains on this site if I can figure out how to work it.
I am no good with computers so good luck with this project .
The table I want to build is a smaller vergen of a 6x12 in a build thead I have seen on this site.
I thought I would put a center slat holder on a crank so I can just drop the slats in then crank them to an arc does that make any sense.
I went to a industrial refrigeration outfit and found a used fan for 200$ thay said it was 4000 cfm but it's only 1h.p. its built like a large furness fan were the air gos in from both sides and the motor and bearings are in the steem however the motor is sealed so I'm hopping it will stand up for a littel while.
How far apart should the slats be the ones I see look like thay are around 3in. is that to wide for smaller parts.
I know nobody here owes me anything but I hope to get some feed back.

WSS
06-19-2010, 12:02 AM
miles,

I recently built a DT setup and the biggest wish I have now is that I had done the water table THEN, when I built it. It is "down the road" now. I know I need it but don't want to shut it down to do it.


Three inch wide is good for slats, magma-joe and Edwardo put screen below the slats on their DTs so small parts won't go to the bottom of the tray, something I will include "when" I get to the water table.


WSS

miles peters
06-19-2010, 11:39 PM
wss
Thank you for your input it's your build log that is the inspiration for my table thanks for all the help.
I'v been back and forth on the water or air thing for weeks.
Electronics ,precision seel, and water just somthing about that combo it don't feel right I know I shouldn't base my design on feelings.
I am building with the water table in mind to make the switch less difficult
and I think I will build a Small tray maybe 3x4 that can hang off the slats to try the water.

Edwardo
06-21-2010, 01:24 PM
I see you're from Canada so you may have to concider the climate also, is your shop heated in the winter for a water table, if using a air handler system it will suck out the warm air from your shop so you may need a fresh air intake over the table. I built my table from DT drawing and it turned out well, the only thing i changed was using 1/4" wall tubing instead of 1/8th, as for a crank to arc the slats, when i built mine i welded a peice of angle iron down the center of the table and off set the groove for the slat to the center of the 2 on the out side, it gives a nice arc and you dont have to ever adjust it, to support the center angle iron i tacked it to one of the slats around the center of the table. I used 3/16 x3" flat for slats but i think i could have used 1/8...

miles peters
06-21-2010, 11:24 PM
Edwardo
Thank you for your help I can use all I can get. I thought I would cut slots in 3 in. angle with my chop saw and use 1/8 in.x 4in. thay will be loose but that should be o.k. if thay are in an arc I hope anyway
I will bolt the slat holders so there easy to change.
here are some photos of my start.
I live in Vancouver so it is not often cold I think this will be an air table but that may change.
how much did you off set the center groove.

Edwardo
06-22-2010, 11:46 AM
Your table is looking great, heavy duty like WSS and Magma-joe.
I,m not at home at the moment to measure my spacing but if i remember correctly they are at 3" spacing, the 2 outside angle iron are notch and mounted the same so your slats span across the table straight, the center angle is notched the same 3" spacing but offset to the center between the other 2, now when your slats span across they a have a arc, the arc also keeps your slats tight... im not saying this is the best way of doing it but it works great for me. At the moment i am just using a old furnace fan for my table which works ok when cutting with 40 amp consumables and thinner sheets, but i tried 80 amp on some alum once and it couldnt keep up with the smoke, i rarely use anything larger than 40 amp so its no big deal for me but i will upgrade in the future once i build a new shop, i sometimes spray water on the sheet while cutting, it helps keep the dust down plus minimizes warpage on the thinner gauge steel, the water just runs out the bottom and into the floor drain...
You arent stupid with this project, building a gantry is by no means easy and i wouldnt try it either, i didnt have the time/patience or tools for that and for me i wanted to get cutting asap.
Nobody on this site owes anyone anything, we are just a group of people with the same interests and we share our experiences freely with each other, we all started out like you are now and we all asked questions, there are guys on here with alot of experience and it is a great place to be.
Have you decided on which plasma you will use? Myself i have a 1250 Hypertherm which will cut anything i need, the consumables last a long time and are availible close to home, they have a new 45 that i have also heard good things about, most of the other guys in this thread use Hypertherm and there is a fellow ( Jim Colt ) who is a rep for Hypertherm that frequents this site and gives advice freely to thoughs who ask, that alone is a asset as i havent seen anyone from the other plasma makers on here ever. Hypertherm also has a thread on this site.

Have you decided on which programs you will be using? WE-CIM or other CAD-CAM programs? If WE-CIM then WSS and Magma-Joe may be able to help you with questions, if Corel draw and Sheetcam then i may be able to give you a few pointers, either way it will be a learning curve so dont get to frustrated, once you have a grasp of the basics then the rest comes easy.

Good luck and thanks for posting your pics, keep them coming as we love pics on here...

EDD

miles peters
06-24-2010, 10:34 PM
I have a Hypertherm 1000 but I orderd a machine torch for a 1250 as it will fit my 1000 and I plan to up grade when I can aford too.
I have also ordered the we-sim program just going on what I'v read on sites like this.I know very little about computers and I just hope I have'nt bit off more than I can chew.
I need to buy a computer to run my table as I only have a mac.
I was thinking about a laptop so I can work on programs anywhere does that make sense .
Would a note book work? How much power do I need?

WSS
06-25-2010, 03:12 AM
Miles,
You will be happy with the we-cim software. I assume you will be cutting inserts and fence parts for your fence company? What thickness will be your staple? The build looks strong.


Edwardo, I am going to shoot you an email w/ some TAP files attached.

Cheers,
WSS

miles peters
06-27-2010, 12:31 PM
I will be cutting mosty 1/4 mild steel.
I machine some hinges from 1 in. I guess theres no way a 1250 would cut that eh. there are no pierces in that project.
machining is very slow but I hate to farm work out.
I am building my table hevy because I would like to add oxy-acetylene in the future.

miles peters
06-28-2010, 10:44 PM
Recent photos
I 'm trying to put in lots of photos because other peoples photos were very useful to me.
If anyone spots anything goofy please let me know.
Sorry about the picture quality it's a cheep telephone.

WSS
06-29-2010, 02:36 AM
It looks great! I see you are firmly down the path of vacuum table. Just leave a little room between the rails and the slat holders for a water tray insert if you change your mind later. I left .1875" between each side for this. Photos are great for all to look over, you never know what a guy will see and run with. You have accomplished quite a bit in a short time.

WSS

miles peters
07-02-2010, 10:41 PM
I left 1\4in. between the rails and slat holders in case I need to true the rails.
My slat groves are 1/4 an my slats are 1/8 I was surprised to see how loose thay are even with the bow in them.

WSS
07-16-2010, 03:10 AM
Hey Miles, you've been quite. How is the build going?

WSS

miles peters
07-16-2010, 11:33 PM
I am still moving but a little slow as work keeps getting in my way but thats a good thing as I have a large bill to pay.
I put a magnetic switch on my fan its one I had laying around the coil is 220 volt hope thats ok.
My gantry will be ready to ship next week I hope. I don't know how long it will take to come across the country.
I still have not welded my drop side as I'm not sure how to get it straight.
The two 2x2 tubes are bolted to slots so thay can be adjusted but I don't know what to use for a ten foot stright edge.

WSS
07-17-2010, 12:27 AM
Miles,

Checkout this thread.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86346

I used the thin wire trick and it worked perfect. Stretch it tight and it will be true.

It is important to get close from the start. That way you are not thinking about how to fix it later when it is running. That being said, the DT is pretty flexible/forgiving. I had to shim the drop side followers to line up with my table a bit,small things you do once and forget you did it later.


WSS

miles peters
07-17-2010, 10:52 PM
Thanks for the link Tom your a handy guy to have on here.I like the corner to corner wire trick for torque. Simple but I would never thought of it.
I notice a lot of builders buy leg levelers why not just use bolts what am I missing here.

miles peters
07-22-2010, 09:25 PM
more photos
I am putting in a booth for a warm smoke free environment for me and my computer as I am getting a joy stick I think that mite work alright.
Hope my gantry comes soon.

miles peters
08-07-2010, 10:47 PM
.

miles peters
08-07-2010, 10:55 PM
yahoo!
My gantry came and it looks like it fitts the table

WSS
08-08-2010, 08:53 PM
yahoo!
My gantry came and it looks like it fitts the table

Miles,

Is the over hang on the drop side (slave) for a attachment of some kind?

Does your gantry have vee rollers on both the master and slave side? mine has vee rollers on the master and cam followers on the slave side. Vees self clean better.

You will be cutting soon!

WSS

Edwardo
08-08-2010, 11:00 PM
I was just looking at that also Tommy?? The only thing i can see is support for the cable carriage which looks alot longer than what i have seen before.
EDD

miles peters
08-09-2010, 10:59 PM
the overhang on the gantry is to run the torch out over the tubing cutter.
I thought I should have that because I use a lot of pipe for chain link fence.
It may be good for coping or address posts or who knows what.
Yes both sides have vee rails the slave side rollers float side to side maybe 1 inch or so.

Edwardo
08-09-2010, 11:14 PM
Thanks Miles, it makes sense now... nice build and happy cutting.

WSS
08-09-2010, 11:28 PM
the overhang on the gantry is to run the torch out over the tubing cutter.
I thought I should have that because I use a lot of pipe for chain link fence.
It may be good for coping or address posts or who knows what.
Yes both sides have vee rails the slave side rollers float side to side maybe 1 inch or so.

DT has some good ideas. You will find all sorts of things to do with the tube cutter, I am sure.

The vees will be nice, right now I have to blow the rail off before I start to cut and in between cuts if I am cutting close to the slave side.

WSS

miles peters
08-12-2010, 10:38 PM
I used hevy walled tube for my rails.
The conners have a large radius so when I screwed down the rail it did not sit square. I did a hay wire repair buy putting a set screw in the radius at each mounting screw with a hole in the opposite side for a hex wench so as to ajust the track seems to work hopping for the best.

miles peters
08-28-2010, 10:24 AM
I made the call to Dynatorch and thay took the time to help me with the setup everything seems to work fine I have made a few cuts.
only thing is I also must run with stop cut at lost arc uncecked.
Now comes the hard part to learn the soft ware.