PDA

View Full Version : joe 2006 METRIC build



wout
05-06-2010, 04:13 PM
Hi, joe was so kind to give me permission to convert his plans to metric sizes.
I would like to build one, but some things aren't available overhere in europe in these specific sizes, so i'll be reworking the plans.

18 mm mdf
35 mm diameter aluminium, 2,5 mm thick. I think i'm pretty much done with the base.

How does this look: enough grip on the tube? (pic 1)
Between the bearing and aluminium profile are 2 nuts. Will this give a problem? This gives me an almost perfect distance. In the joe 2006 plans it looks like there is a piece of metal tube between the bearing and profile, but i haven't found anything standard that will fit there besides the 2 nuts.

http://www.wereldderindianen.be/wout/6.jpg

Another question. On the original plans the x axis torsion box supports are on one side longer. i made them on both sides the same. Could that give me any problems? It just looke more rigid having the pipes stick out less, but i might be making a mistake here. Some quick render:

http://www.wereldderindianen.be/wout/7.jpg

I'll hopefully have some more to show tomorrow.

VCR
05-06-2010, 06:04 PM
Hello

Opss, ;-) I don´t think I have the skills to keep up whit you drawings.

I have a question, and please keep in mind that I don´t have any skills in CNC building.

In your top detail wouldn't it be better to use a L shaped stall bar instead of the pipe? It would be easier to fix to the chassis of the machine and I have the feeling It would be more stable. It could be fixed like < or L and a upside donw L

VCR

ger21
05-06-2010, 07:29 PM
I can tell you that the bearings will quickly wear flat spots on the aluminum tube. My machine uses a similar design with steel tubes, and the steel is getting flat spots on it.

VCR
05-07-2010, 06:03 AM
I have a sketch :-)

Fatboy
05-07-2010, 04:45 PM
The x axis is offset to make room for the adjustment box which I don't see in your rendering. The box is on the narrow side and this centers the gantry. On my router the distance from the inside of the gantry to the bed is 5.25" (OOPS-133.34mm) on both sides.

How does this look: enough grip on the tube? (pic 1)
Between the bearing and aluminium profile are 2 nuts. Will this give a problem? This gives me an almost perfect distance. In the joe 2006 plans it looks like there is a piece of metal tube between the bearing and profile, but i haven't found anything standard that will fit there besides the 2 nuts.

Use the combination of nuts, flat washers, lock washers, or bits of tubing to space the bearings on the pipe. Your rendering is correct on the bearing/pipe location, keep in mind that this will be rotated so that the edges of the angle will be 90° and the bearings on the other side of the gantry will be working to hold these in place.

Fatboy

Biff
05-13-2010, 10:40 PM
Holy crap man!! That last pic is a render? Wow...

What software is that?

Fatboy
05-14-2010, 10:20 AM
Hello

Opss, ;-) I don´t think I have the skills to keep up whit you drawings.

I have a question, and please keep in mind that I don´t have any skills in CNC building.

In your top detail wouldn't it be better to use a L shaped stall bar instead of the pipe? It would be easier to fix to the chassis of the machine and I have the feeling It would be more stable. It could be fixed like < or L and a upside donw L

VCR

The machine works well as originally designed using the pipes. Why complicate it by re-inventing the wheel?

Fatboy

wout
05-14-2010, 04:04 PM
Sorry for the late reply, i was really busy this week, including celebrating my birthday :) Anyway, thank u for the replies.

biff, i'm modeling everything in rhino, the render is max.

Fatboy, thank u for the help. I'm still wondering if the offset on one side of the gantry is completely necessary, i don't really fully understand at this moment how the adjustment box works but i'm sure i'll understand when i get to that part of the modeling, i just haven't looked properly yet. :)

The spacing works perfectly with 2 nuts on the 30mm pipe.

Vcr, i actually was wondering the same.
It's perfectly possible to use square pipes, 30mm wide ones, 3mm thick.
But i'm not sure if it will be better this way.
I'm wondering what the experts have to say on this.
Round or square pipes? Anyone tried the difference? Joe used the round ones and i'm sure he had a good reason for it?

Here's a screengrab from the model (using 40 mm screws, i replaced them now with 30 mm which are a perfect fit.)

http://www.wereldderindianen.be/wout/9.jpg

Next up is the gantry, hopefully soon.

Fatboy
05-14-2010, 04:54 PM
Happy birthday, my daughter's was yesterday (32).

No, the offset isn't neccesary but then the usable table in Y would be offset too. You will see when you get there.

The big reasons to use pipes: cost, availability, they can be rotated to several angles to get the best bearing contact and when worn. The square stock can be rotated only 90° at a time. The angles would be a single use item.

Also, with the pipes you can spin them to polish the bearing surfaces. There's a set-up for doing this with a portable drill somewhere in the forums. I used my lathe with an outboard support and a lot of emery cloth. The Y axis pipe were galvanized and shined out rather nicely. The X pipes, however, were painted black and a real b*tch to clean plus they are twice the length and twice as many.

The rendering of the bearing nut plan is exactly what I have on my X axis.
Good Job,
Fatboy

tinuz
07-28-2010, 06:54 AM
Great i will follow this thread and watch the progress of a metric build joes cnc.
Im thinking of building one but couldnt find any plans in metric :(

Kind regards,
Tinuz

LikuiD
07-28-2010, 11:37 AM
I've always wanted to build my own CNC machine, but have been discouraged by the fact that there aren't any metric plans out there :(
I've looked everywhere here in Egypt, but everything is sold according to metric standard units, starting from the MDF sheet thickness to the drill bits :(