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joecnc2006
04-22-2005, 10:57 PM
First of all i had build a simple and cheap CNC Machine for one purpose only, to be able to machine parts for my New CNC Machine I am building now.

Here is the 1st machine..

Also a teaser of it cutting..

http://www.lumenlab.com/~joe2000chevy/CNC/joe-cnc%20new.wmv

joecnc2006
04-22-2005, 11:01 PM
OK now that I built the 1st one I was able to learn the software and working of CNC, then came the task of drawing up plans, I got a jrgo plans, but they had an even smaller cutting area than the 1st one i built this would not do me, so I sat Down and redrew it all to a much larger machine, This one will have a cutting area of around 26"x45" (to be finally determaned when finished). After I got it all modeled the way I wanted it came the task of starting to manufacture all the parts.

So now here are the parts I have done thus far for your enjoyment and questions are open. Here is a screen capture of the model.

joecnc2006
04-22-2005, 11:03 PM
Cutting parts on 1st CNC Machine.

joecnc2006
04-22-2005, 11:06 PM
Now the Gantry, Also sitting on 1st machine to compare the size.

And last pic of EMC cutting parts on 1st machine.

Ken_Shea
04-22-2005, 11:21 PM
Very nice work Joe, I bet this goes much faster then the first one :)

joecnc2006
04-22-2005, 11:51 PM
yes, 1st one took about 3 weeks, this one is taking about 2 weeks (working in the evening, and a weekend, but I should be finished this weekend.

lurch
04-23-2005, 12:30 AM
Looking good Joe!! I've started on a second smaller machine in steel, mostly, and I'm still finishing the little parts on my first machine.....Too many ideas, not enough time.....!! Keep the posts coming love to see new builds, especially different approaches to the same problem....

BTW, are you using the BDI for EMC???

Kammo1
04-23-2005, 04:00 AM
Joe I must applaud you on not only building a 1st machine but also a 2nd!!!!!!! man you don't hang around. When making your'e own machine would you recommend building the basic structure 1st ie just basically the frame and then getting leadscrews, motors etc after or do you get all the materials 1st and then make the frame to fit??? It puzzles me of what is the besy way to go any help is always very well appreciated. Laz.

ger21
04-23-2005, 08:51 AM
Aren't you going to get a lot of flex with those long unsupported pipes?

joecnc2006
04-23-2005, 03:28 PM
Looking good Joe!! I've started on a second smaller machine in steel, mostly, and I'm still finishing the little parts on my first machine.....Too many ideas, not enough time.....!! Keep the posts coming love to see new builds, especially different approaches to the same problem....

BTW, are you using the BDI for EMC???

yes, the one i have is BDI-EMC 4.18

joecnc2006
04-23-2005, 03:30 PM
Joe I must applaud you on not only building a 1st machine but also a 2nd!!!!!!! man you don't hang around. When making your'e own machine would you recommend building the basic structure 1st ie just basically the frame and then getting leadscrews, motors etc after or do you get all the materials 1st and then make the frame to fit??? It puzzles me of what is the besy way to go any help is always very well appreciated. Laz.

What i do is see the parts that is most available and easy to get then build a machine around that. For example the standard lengths and standard thread and pipe dia.

joecnc2006
04-23-2005, 08:38 PM
Cut out the Anti Backlash Nut Assembly, here is a picture on CNC Machine and a Finished Assembly.

joecnc2006
04-23-2005, 09:13 PM
Motor / Lead Screw coupler.....

joecnc2006
04-24-2005, 01:36 PM
Here are the Large Adjustment Blocks.....

joecnc2006
04-24-2005, 02:17 PM
Large Adjustment Blocks Installed...

joecnc2006
04-24-2005, 11:25 PM
Added two springs tothe Z Axis to act as a counter balance so the motor does not have to work as hard to lift the tool.

gregmary
04-25-2005, 12:15 AM
Looks great Joe,

The springs are an original idea.

I am also starting the build of my second machine. It will look alot like yours I think. I have finished manufacturing the parts out of nylon and bought my sheet of 3/4 MDF today. I am planning how to cut all the pieces out of the 4'X8' sheet. My first machine was the JRGO and my second will be a decendent thereof. Keep the pics coming!!!!

Greg

joecnc2006
04-25-2005, 03:17 AM
Aren't you going to get a lot of flex with those long unsupported pipes?

I will see once it is finished, if so i can add a suport on the interior of the pipes.

joecnc2006
04-25-2005, 08:11 PM
Got the Bottom Section complete, not just need to put it all together, Here is a picture of it, and also a picture to see the Size comparison to my 1st machine.

joecnc2006
04-27-2005, 05:49 PM
Gantry Installed....

joecnc2006
04-27-2005, 11:05 PM
Well after about 2-weeks build and a few more days prior of planning and drawings, I finished My new CNC machine.

Cutting area 26"x48"x4.5"

here are the pictures of the finished machine, you can compare it to my drawings and see what you think.

thanks, Joe

lurch
04-28-2005, 12:09 AM
Congratulations! Looks good, Joe!
Your cutting bed is two layers of MDF on two pieces of 1.5 inch angle iron, correct? Let me know about the deflection, if any on that setup please. I'm already headed that way on mine, though I was going to weld them up to an end piece of angle iron, and add another rib under the center.

Will this lead to canabalization of the 1st router to make a third, or were you planning to keep both in operation??

joecnc2006
04-28-2005, 12:47 AM
Congratulations! Looks good, Joe!
Your cutting bed is two layers of MDF on two pieces of 1.5 inch angle iron, correct? Let me know about the deflection, if any on that setup please. I'm already headed that way on mine, though I was going to weld them up to an end piece of angle iron, and add another rib under the center.

Will this lead to canabalization of the 1st router to make a third, or were you planning to keep both in operation??

Yes the 1st machine will be taken apart and I may start on another machine, can always use a better machine :) , i have a few people who are interested in this machine, i may cut some parts for them.

morrissp
04-28-2005, 03:47 AM
Joe great job, as I am also starting on my machine, I'm interested in the deflection of the bed, as it's a lot simpler than making a box section.

Steve

Kammo1
04-28-2005, 04:31 AM
Joe what tips and advice would you give a newbee starting his 1st CNC?? what did you find when building both of your machines the most troublesome and mostly hardest things to make or set-up?? I'm sure that you can help as you have made this in very quick time and any pointers are always acceptable here. Kammo1

scubasteve2365
04-28-2005, 04:53 AM
Yes the 1st machine will be taken apart and I may start on another machine, can always use a better machine :) , i have a few people who are interested in this machine, i may cut some parts for them.

Please put me on that list .......you know Ive been bugging you .....Make me first too .... hint hint wink wink .....

Great work ......

10bulls
04-28-2005, 05:26 AM
Great stuff Joe! I am very impressed at how fast things came together.
Are you using the same bearing design as your 1st router for the X-axis (2 skate bearings with spacer on top and support block underneath)?
I'm using a similar bearing design on my router ('cept with 2 bearings underneath) and am interested in how yours have held up.
Andy

erikkate
04-28-2005, 11:01 AM
If i were you, i would paint that thing. Looks good though!
With a bit of paint it would look even better!
An oil stain will destroy your piece of work in a blink.

joecnc2006
04-28-2005, 11:27 AM
Joe great job, as I am also starting on my machine, I'm interested in the deflection of the bed, as it's a lot simpler than making a box section.

Steve

The rail have a slight deflection to them maybe 1mm tops, ( for my wood projects this is fine) I may make a mod to the design to adress this if i'm going to be cutting metal, the bed does not have hardly any deflection at all, i used 1/8" steel angle iron, if you go with 1/4" it will stiffin it even more.

joecnc2006
04-28-2005, 11:34 AM
Joe what tips and advice would you give a newbee starting his 1st CNC?? what did you find when building both of your machines the most troublesome and mostly hardest things to make or set-up?? I'm sure that you can help as you have made this in very quick time and any pointers are always acceptable here. Kammo1

The most important thing is accuracy in your cuts, if your cuts are not sqyuared up you will see it later on in the build when trying to align and square the gantry to bottom rails, even the adjustment blocks can adjust only so far.

Also the skate bearings work really well on the second machine, as this is a modified jgro layout. If you do not have drawings to go by it will make the build alot harder and you will be forever modifying the machine, plan out every aspect, part, of the machine.

joecnc2006
04-28-2005, 11:38 AM
If i were you, i would paint that thing. Looks good though!
With a bit of paint it would look even better!
An oil stain will destroy your piece of work in a blink.

Yes that is my plan, however i will be able to cut all the parts on the new cnc machine, now that I know it works well, and I can paint it as i make it, then when completed just replace the parts as I go, plan is to rebuild the gantry as a test and how efficient i can do it.

Joe

joecnc2006
04-28-2005, 03:06 PM
I figured out a way to keep the gantry from flexing, i will take another angle iron turned upside down from the ones on the side of the machine, bolt it to the existing frame with adjustable slots and then place additional bearings on the side og the gantry to ride ontop of this rail, or another idea is to to have bearings ride on the top of the existing rail. this may be a simpler aproach. however this approach will cut down on the X axis cutting area by about 3 inches.

Catapultsup
04-28-2005, 09:44 PM
Hey Joe didn't I see that dog on a web page before. lol

joecnc2006
04-28-2005, 11:13 PM
Hey Joe didn't I see that dog on a web page before. lol

:)

KP23
05-02-2005, 08:03 PM
WOW! what can I say Joe, this gets me excited about finiching mine.
I will try to attach my photo's again. By the way, do you know if I can use 1/4 -20 all thread rod and still keep accurent demintions when routing?????

Ken

randyf1965
05-02-2005, 10:05 PM
Dog with shades?

joecnc2006
05-03-2005, 12:33 AM
WOW! what can I say Joe, this gets me excited about finiching mine.
I will try to attach my photo's again. By the way, do you know if I can use 1/4 -20 all thread rod and still keep accurent demintions when routing?????

Ken

1/4" rod is ok for a small machine, but it will whip around to much on larger machines, imfact i may have to replace my 5/16" - 18 back to the 1/2" -13 like my 1st one, because this machine runs a little slower.

KP23
05-03-2005, 08:18 AM
So I would be OK using the 1/2-13 on my 32" axis and 5/16-18 and 1/4-20 on the other two? But how will they effect the fead distance in a program? Do I have to compensate travel distance from one rod size to another when writing a program or converting a DFX file? (I will be using my router mostly for engraving pictures)

Ken

joecnc2006
05-03-2005, 10:40 AM
So I would be OK using the 1/2-13 on my 32" axis and 5/16-18 and 1/4-20 on the other two? But how will they effect the fead distance in a program? Do I have to compensate travel distance from one rod size to another when writing a program or converting a DFX file? (I will be using my router mostly for engraving pictures)

Ken

I would use the same size rods, to avoid different travel timming per axis....

HomeCNC
05-03-2005, 03:09 PM
Nice Joe! It won't be long and you will be cutting thoes Haas PJ sides :D (inside joke)

joecnc2006
05-03-2005, 04:38 PM
Nice Joe! It won't be long and you will be cutting thoes Haas PJ sides :D (inside joke)

Yes fixing to start on them, and try to generate money to make an even better machine, the Cycle never ends does it. :)

ShayArnett
05-07-2005, 10:45 PM
Do you think there is anyway possible I could con you into cutting a set of those parts for me? I would really like to get started on my machine, but my woodworking skills aren't so hot, and it would be nice to have all those accurate parts to start with. I would actually be happy with and prefer parts for the original size machine if that would make it any easier, and I only need the mdf pieces, I have loads of some unknown plastic that I will be using for all of the plastic parts.

I would be happy to pay for supplies/time/shipping/etc just let me know if you would be interested, shayarnett@arnettmultimedia.com preferrebly.

joecnc2006
05-08-2005, 02:02 AM
Nice Joe! It won't be long and you will be cutting thoes Haas PJ sides :D (inside joke)


Here is one side. :)

randyf1965
05-08-2005, 11:39 AM
Yes, that is ONE of my goals in building my router! makes me want to work 10 hours a day on my router (on top of 8-10 of normal work!!!)

Hope to have it all together by end of summer

joecnc2006
05-09-2005, 01:26 AM
New Gantry to replace the existing one that was cut on the tablesaw, this one was all cut on the cnc..

joecnc2006
05-10-2005, 12:06 AM
New Adjustment blocks cut on CNC and fits perfect.

joecnc2006
05-10-2005, 12:07 AM
I just came up with a way to help support the leadscrew on the CNC and to lock the lead screw from moving so i can go back to the rubber gormet on the motor side, to help reduce any leadscrew wobble. bearing is sandwiched between poly in grove, then lock nuts on both sides of bearing.

joecnc2006
05-10-2005, 02:38 AM
Lead Screw Bearing support Cut and Installed.....

CNCRob
05-11-2005, 04:31 PM
Your 2nd machine is looking great. I think its cool how you took your first machine and made alot of the parts for the 2nd.

acondit
05-11-2005, 06:41 PM
Joe,

Your 2nd machine is looking great. I think its cool how you took your first machine and made alot of the parts for the 2nd.


What you are doing for your second router is a large part of what convinced me to build an MDF based router as a first project rather that a steel framed router.

Alan

joecnc2006
05-12-2005, 12:19 AM
Thanks Guys, I Have a few people that want me to cut some parts for them, so they start out with a good clean machine....

Well tonight i Designed the Tool Holder for the RotoZip in Solid Works, then Cut it out on the CNC. Here are the Pictures of it from design to finished. (Cut out of UHMW)

joecnc2006
05-12-2005, 12:43 AM
Z Axis Adjustment Blocks Cut out on CNC and Taped...

joecnc2006
05-12-2005, 01:36 AM
Last thing done tonight The Y Axis Assembly, I really like the way everything lines up and bolts right together. (Much easier when parts are cut on the CNC Makes assembly of everything faster and easier, no worries of parts not matching or being out of alignment).

Catapultsup
05-12-2005, 07:27 AM
hey Joe on my machine for bearing support I did basically the same thing it makes a great thrust block

joecnc2006
05-13-2005, 12:45 AM
hey Joe on my machine for bearing support I did basically the same thing it makes a great thrust block

yea i think it will work well..

joecnc2006
05-13-2005, 12:47 AM
Cut the Z Axis Assembly, all thats left now is a couple leadscrew bearing suports, and assemble it and test.

mocnc
05-14-2005, 05:35 PM
Hey Joe, you are doing a great job! I know you aren't finished yet, but I was wondering if you are going to sell parts.....like the roto zip holder, the end bearing block for 1/4 x 20 threaded rod, and the 1/2" gas pipe mounting/adjusting brackets. Also just a part of your "y" axis assembly?? I am using linear bearings for my z axis, but I am still going to use the 1/2" gas piping for my "y" axis. Oh and one more part that needs to be cut is my end pieces for my "y" axis that accept the the adjusting brackets for the "y" axis black pipes. Please let me know if you can. I know that sounds like alot of parts, and well it is, but for reasone beyond my control I can't do them at this moment. If you want you can email me with you answer.....morecchio@cogeco.ca

joecnc2006
05-15-2005, 12:32 AM
Hey Joe, you are doing a great job! I know you aren't finished yet, but I was wondering if you are going to sell parts.....like the roto zip holder, the end bearing block for 1/4 x 20 threaded rod, and the 1/2" gas pipe mounting/adjusting brackets. Also just a part of your "y" axis assembly?? I am using linear bearings for my z axis, but I am still going to use the 1/2" gas piping for my "y" axis. Oh and one more part that needs to be cut is my end pieces for my "y" axis that accept the the adjusting brackets for the "y" axis black pipes. Please let me know if you can. I know that sounds like alot of parts, and well it is, but for reasone beyond my control I can't do them at this moment. If you want you can email me with you answer.....morecchio@cogeco.ca

Thanks so much :), yes I will be cutting parts for other people within a day or two, I will send you an e-mail..

joecnc2006
05-15-2005, 12:38 AM
I Redid the footprint of the Bearing suport found out it slightly interfiered with the adjustment blocks for the Z Axis so cut them with a notch out of it, an "I" design.

joecnc2006
05-15-2005, 12:39 AM
Well I was not happy with the anti backlash and tensioner nuts, so i redesigned then to have steel nut inside it.....

Here are the pictures.

lurch
05-15-2005, 01:57 AM
Great looking anti backlash assemblys! What kind of rod is that you are using?

joecnc2006
05-15-2005, 01:03 PM
Great looking anti backlash assemblys! What kind of rod is that you are using?

5/16" because i wanted to use the standard skate bearings as leadscrew supports/ bearing blocks.

joecnc2006
05-15-2005, 01:05 PM
Stepper motor spacers...

pminmo
05-15-2005, 02:08 PM
Great looking stuff Joe.

Phil

Hobbiest
05-15-2005, 08:27 PM
Its pretty awsome how much these machines help to build eachother, isn't it? How did you cut the hex shaped holes? Very small bit?

joecnc2006
05-15-2005, 10:00 PM
Great looking stuff Joe.

Phil

thanks, I have considered, possibly making your board sometime, but i like a all in one board.... :)


Hobbiest,
I used a 1/8" end mill up spiral bit.

joecnc2006
05-15-2005, 10:01 PM
its all comming together now.....

pminmo
05-15-2005, 11:09 PM
thanks, I have considered, possibly making your board sometime, but i like a all in one board.... :)


Hobbiest,
I used a 1/8" end mill up spiral bit.

Well I do have an all in one, based on the 3977SLP package. DB25 in, 3 axis bipolar, conntector for a 4th axis, and connector for limit and home switches, and 2 drivers for relays, all in a 3.9 x 3.2" pcb. Trouble is, troublshooting the 1st prototype is driving me nuts. The 28Pin TSSOP package is a little bitty bug, and getting it on right and working is a real challenge!!! Probing it is even tougher.

Phil

joecnc2006
05-17-2005, 01:03 PM
Well I do have an all in one, based on the 3977SLP package. DB25 in, 3 axis bipolar, conntector for a 4th axis, and connector for limit and home switches, and 2 drivers for relays, all in a 3.9 x 3.2" pcb. Trouble is, troublshooting the 1st prototype is driving me nuts. The 28Pin TSSOP package is a little bitty bug, and getting it on right and working is a real challenge!!! Probing it is even tougher.

Phil

Look forward to seeing more on it.

joecnc2006
05-20-2005, 10:05 PM
Here are pictures of finished machine.

CNCRob
05-21-2005, 09:34 AM
Joe, Your machine looks awsome!

nkjh97
05-21-2005, 02:02 PM
Your machines look great. you've inspired me to try to make one. thanks.

joecnc2006
05-23-2005, 12:05 PM
Joe, Your machine looks awsome!


Your machines look great. you've inspired me to try to make one. thanks.

Nice to hear. Thanks you very much.

Joe

joecnc2006
05-23-2005, 12:10 PM
Here are the edrawings of individual assemblies so you can get an idea, of what is involved and a closer look into it in 3d, If any one is interested I am Cutting parts for some people for then to build one, I can provide you some parts to those who are not quite able to make them due to limited tools but would like to start, alot of these parts are used in the original jgro plans which people are using in the forum. You can email me and let me know if you might need anything.

http://www.lumenlab.com/~joe2000chevy/CNC/

You can download the Solidworks e-drawing viewer, its free on their site.

http://www.solidworks.com/pages/programs/e...2_register.html
Click E-drawing Viewer Only


Thanks, Joe

zoltan
05-23-2005, 03:52 PM
joe,

May I ask for these files in Solidworks format? I am interested in dimensions...in mm if it is possible

joecnc2006
05-25-2005, 02:44 PM
Cutting Small Adjustment Blocks. and them cut with all 4 side drilled and tapped.

Did not take long, Cut them at 30 in/min.

zoltan
05-25-2005, 02:48 PM
Joe,

There is no chance to help me with your files in Solidworks format?

joecnc2006
05-25-2005, 05:23 PM
Joe,

There is no chance to help me with your files in Solidworks format?


Yes of course i can My plans drawn in Solidworks is Based from original plans (jgro) here from The Zone, So i have no right to protect them, or even try to sell them, Other than my time i put in to redraw them, but as i see it redrawing the cnc machine just helped me build my machine, and also produce files for me to be able to provide parts for others, which can be used in either machine, regardless of the size. I just want to be able to help people out that really do not have the means to be able to produce the parts them self.

Just send me an e-mail i can zip and send to you.

joe@lumenlab.com

gmfoster
05-25-2005, 09:02 PM
Cutting Small Adjustment Blocks. and them cut with all 4 side drilled and tapped.

Did not take long, Cut them at 30 in/min.

What material is that and what thickness? I have a hard time locating plastic that thick at a reasonable price.
Garry

joecnc2006
05-25-2005, 09:32 PM
Hi Density Polyethalene 3/4" think, I have a plastic dist less than 1 mil. from my house.....

I have been cutting them and selling to people just as you see them.

chuckknigh
05-26-2005, 12:57 AM
Selling them for how much? They look well designed and well made. Congratulations on finding a niche!

-- Chuck Knight

joecnc2006
05-26-2005, 01:51 AM
well im not out to make a huge profit, this is more a hobby and like i said to help others, so i made up a tentive price list to try to shoot for, let me know what ya think? if to low or to high in your honest opinion...

hmmm well to think of it maybe people will not tell me i'm 2 low.. hahaha.

3 - sets, Lead Screw Bearing supports = $30.00 (does not Include Bearings)

3 - sets Anti Backlash Nut w/ Tensioner = $12.00 (Includes Nuts 5/16")

4 - Small Adjustment Blocks = $16.00 (does not include 1" adjustment bolts)

4 - Medium Adjustment Blocks = $16.00 (does not include 1" adjustment bolts)

4 - Large Adjustment Blocks = $18.00 (does not include 1" adjustment bolts)

6 - Linear Alumn Bearing Block Suports = $30.00 (3 sizes 2 ea., 8", 7.5" and 6")

Linear Bearing Slides 1 1/4" angle, with 4 bearings = $15.00 ea. (total 6 needed, 8", 7.5" and 6")

Hardware Only.

Thanks, Joe

zoltan
05-26-2005, 01:50 PM
Joe,

Thank you again. I have sent an e-mail to your e-mail address. I hope you can send the e-mail soon.

txcowdog
06-02-2005, 12:00 PM
[QUOTE=joe2000che]Here are the edrawings of individual assemblies so you can get an idea, of what is involved and a closer look into it in 3d, If any one is interested I am Cutting parts for some people for then to build one, I can provide you some parts to those who are not quite able to make them due to limited tools but would like to start, alot of these parts people are using in the forum. You can email me and let me know if you might need anything.





Spectacular! I was having a hard time visualizing how each of the parts fit until I got a hold of these 3D drawings. Thanks.

joecnc2006
06-02-2005, 02:38 PM
Spectacular! I was having a hard time visualizing how each of the parts fit until I got a hold of these 3D drawings. Thanks.


Were in Tx are you? I'm in San Antonio, Let me know if i can help ya with anything.

Joe

joecnc2006
06-05-2005, 03:59 AM
Just an Update, I have had a few request for some parts, so I have setup a paypal for people to use who might be interested.

Joe

txcowdog
06-05-2005, 11:46 AM
Hey Joe,
In an early picture it looks like you are using steppers out of an HP III and if so are you happy with the 100oz/in they provide or will you be moving to a larger motor?

joecnc2006
06-05-2005, 11:58 AM
Hey Joe,
In an early picture it looks like you are using steppers out of an HP III and if so are you happy with the 100oz/in they provide or will you be moving to a larger motor?

yes they work good, i use 32v on them, which helped alot. do not use less than 24 i would think or they will loose steps. I will be upgrading to 200oz soon, because i am cutting more and more so spead will help me out, it cuts fine now i run at 30ipm.

mvaughn
06-05-2005, 04:10 PM
Joe,

I see that you use solidworks for all of your CAD work. Can you describe the process and tools you use to go from Solidworks to NC / G-Code?

joecnc2006
06-06-2005, 09:50 AM
Joe,

I see that you use solidworks for all of your CAD work. Can you describe the process and tools you use to go from Solidworks to NC / G-Code?

I work for an Engineering Company, We have an Elaberate Autocad, Solid works will export to Dwg, and I modify it in autocad to make it a simple drawing, then you can use a dwg to g-code which will also run within autocadd, Downloadable from the Zone.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8226&highlight=dwg+gcode

and just a little editing and your done.

Joe

joecnc2006
06-08-2005, 01:03 AM
UpDate:

Whom ever is ready to start to build a CNC Machine, and would like me to make some parts for them send me an e-mail, I have set up a paypal to make it easier for people.

Thanks, Joe
joe@lumenlab.com

ynneb
06-08-2005, 02:29 AM
Cool Joe, I hope your service goes well.
I guess the parts you are providing are CNC cut frames and rail mounting blocks.
Will it be up to the builder to source the other parts?

I think what you are offering will be a great head start for newbies and those without the time to put into it.

Can you give us a price indication of how much the basic kit you are providing is?

abasir
06-08-2005, 02:59 AM
UpDate:

Whom ever is ready to start to build a CNC Machine, and would like me to make some parts for them send me an e-mail, I have set up a paypal to make it easier for people.

Thanks, Joe
joe@lumenlab.com

How I wish you're on this side of the world so that the shipping charges won't be more expensive than the actual part :mad:

joecnc2006
06-08-2005, 09:45 AM
Cool Joe, I hope your service goes well.
I guess the parts you are providing are CNC cut frames and rail mounting blocks.
Will it be up to the builder to source the other parts?

I think what you are offering will be a great head start for newbies and those without the time to put into it.

Can you give us a price indication of how much the basic kit you are providing is?

Thanks well hopefully you can cut parts for people that are to far from me and shipping would be cheaper from you.

Joe

joecnc2006
06-08-2005, 09:47 AM
How I wish you're on this side of the world so that the shipping charges won't be more expensive than the actual part :mad:

Where are you located? we may have people that are closer and can cut them for you? i have all my drawings and g-codes created.

Joe

abasir
06-08-2005, 08:38 PM
Where are you located? we may have people that are closer and can cut them for you? i have all my drawings and g-codes created.
Joe

Malaysia, the small land mass between Thailand and Singapore. There are plenty of machine shops around town but none is keen on small quantity, hobby type jobs. Also, my mouth get watery whenever I go to eBay :frown:

joecnc2006
06-14-2005, 11:46 PM
Well the MDF Dust was starting to get to me and all over everything, so i made an attachment to the cnc and attached a 3hp shopvac, cost 40 bucks. The dust left over that you see on the parts is all the shopvac left behind, very very little worked even better than i thought prob collects more than 90% of it, However, when cutting HDPE the shaving fly out some so the collection is cut down to maybe 30% but that ok the HDPE is very easy to clean up..

joecnc2006
06-17-2005, 12:26 AM
Parts that were Ordered by a customer, Cut and ready to ship out.

I am Now ready to cut parts for anyone who might need some, I have a price list here, and I can Also cut the Whole Machine I have IN MDF and Now Have means to produce the whole thing in HDPE..

Joe

Kammo1
06-17-2005, 05:08 PM
Nice work Joe hope you make some money from this as you have offered a great service to newbee's in building their 1st homebrew CNC. I have a question for you and that is what leadscrews are you using to drive your machine ? I am building or planning all the bones of the machine at present and using skate bearings and pipes like yours and am I correct in saying that the threaded rod you use for the leadscrews fit in the skate bearing's ie 8mm internal diameter at the other end opposite the stepper motor ? Over here in the UK the skate bearings have an 8mm internal diameter so I was hoping on using 8mm threaded rod as it will fit nicely in the bearing holder without any hassles or am I wrong?? I will be contacting you for some anti-backlash nutsif these will fit the threded rod. Kammo1

joecnc2006
06-17-2005, 08:42 PM
Nice work Joe hope you make some money from this as you have offered a great service to newbee's in building their 1st homebrew CNC. I have a question for you and that is what leadscrews are you using to drive your machine ? I am building or planning all the bones of the machine at present and using skate bearings and pipes like yours and am I correct in saying that the threaded rod you use for the leadscrews fit in the skate bearing's ie 8mm internal diameter at the other end opposite the stepper motor ? Over here in the UK the skate bearings have an 8mm internal diameter so I was hoping on using 8mm threaded rod as it will fit nicely in the bearing holder without any hassles or am I wrong?? I will be contacting you for some anti-backlash nutsif these will fit the threded rod. Kammo1

Yes you are correct, I use 5/16" - 18tpi threaded rod, and so far i have no problem with it whipping. I wanted a machine that was easy to build, yet larger than the standard diy cnc, and also part easy to aquire.

Joe

Kammo1
06-18-2005, 03:20 AM
Many thanks Joe for your reply, bro that is good enough for me I will use that as well.
I will be buying the Hobby CNC kit with the 200oz stepper motors to go with my machine but will start building real soon now that I have all my answers and yes like you want to get available parts and build the machine with this.
I cannot wait to start as I am really excited at taking on a project like this and for me it will be a great challenge, I am going to log it all and take many pics to show my build and will post them as soon as I can. Kammo1.

Ozinus
06-18-2005, 12:54 PM
Joe
I am impressed with your machine I built my first cnc router from scratch and it was ugly to say the least and also was not very accurate but at least I got some cnc experience, Since finding this board I am wanting to build another and I would like to know how much you would charge to cut out all the frames (MDF) I see your other prices and think that they are reasonable
Getting all those important pieces cut out accuratly would greatly speed up my assembly process, Thanks in advance, Ozinus

bwshop
06-18-2005, 03:21 PM
Nice Job Joe What Software Do You Use

joecnc2006
06-19-2005, 10:35 AM
Joe
I am impressed with your machine I built my first cnc router from scratch and it was ugly to say the least and also was not very accurate but at least I got some cnc experience, Since finding this board I am wanting to build another and I would like to know how much you would charge to cut out all the frames (MDF) I see your other prices and think that they are reasonable
Getting all those important pieces cut out accuratly would greatly speed up my assembly process, Thanks in advance, Ozinus

yes i can help you out, just send me an email joe @ lumenlab . com

thanks, Joe

joecnc2006
06-19-2005, 10:36 AM
Nice Job Joe What Software Do You Use

thanks, solid works and acad at work, dwg to g-code maker, and mach2 and EMC in linux

rweatherly
06-20-2005, 11:55 AM
I am going to build my first, and thought about a JRGO style machine. Any suggestions regarding that basic design (i.e., things you would change)?

Thanks,

Richard

joecnc2006
06-20-2005, 03:01 PM
Make sure to build from the Z axis out, cutting the Pipe rail holes last, after making sure of the spacing between rails match your plans.

joecnc2006
06-22-2005, 03:49 AM
Well I have a break now, If anyone would like me to make any parts for them just send me an e-mail I have a few extra and can send out pretty quick.


Thanks Joe

joe@lumenlab.com

joecnc2006
06-22-2005, 01:09 PM
I got a few messages asking for a price list here is what i have offered and done for others.

Here is a complete list and people can choose what they like depending on their built level.

Most parts work for the standard jrgo machine, just pipe size holes in adjustment blocks will change.

I'm looking forward to your feedback, Let me know what you think.....

1 - set, Tool Holder for Rotozip Upper and lower = $20.00 (does not include bolts)

1 - set, Nema 23 motor Spacers 3 total = $10.00 all three

3 - sets, Lead Screw Bearing supports = $30.00 (Does not include Bearings)

3 - sets Anti Backlash Nut w/ Tensioner = $15.00 (Includes Nuts 5/16")

4 - Small Adjustment Blocks 1" inside Dia. = $16.00 (does not include 1" adjustment bolts)

4 - Medium Adjustment Blocks 1.25" inside dia. = $16.00 (does not include 1" adjustment bolts)

4 - Large Adjustment Blocks 1.5" inside Dia. = $18.00 (does not include 1" adjustment bolts)

6 - Linear Alumn Bearing Block Suports = $35.00 for MDF and $45.00 for HDPE (3 sizes 2 ea., 8", 7.5" and 6")

Linear Bearing Slides 1 1/4" angle, with 4 bearings = $18.00 ea. (total 6 needed, 8", 7.5" and 6")

All the MDF pieces cut for the main structure only and ready to put together (no hardware) = $250.00 (Does not include Cutting top or very bottom two alignment pieces)

All pieces cut in HDPE for the main structure only (High Density Polyethelene) Ready to put together (no hardware) = $500.00 (Does not include Cutting top or very bottom two alignment pieces)

Remember prices may change slightly (but will hold on order date) depending on if i actually loose money in time and materials as the proccess goes on, as it is i am loosing or breaking even to start. The more people i have the more i will be able to get quantity on materials and drops the price for me initially

Thanks, Joe
joe@lumenlab.com

joecnc2006
06-23-2005, 12:16 PM
Well I have cut some parts for a few people and sent them off, One guy in another forum, (LumenLab.com) which has a thread here also wrote a responce after he recieved his parts (he is located in Canada) made me feel good to know i got him off to a good start.

Here is the post word for word:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
I got my parts from Joe in the mail today. I had been in discussion with Joe for a long time on the IRC channel about building a CNC machine during the time he was redesigning his original set-up and he offered to make some parts for me once his second design was finalized.

The fundamental structure of his machine is similar to the free design by Jgro of CNCZone. Pulsareus built his CNC from those plans. But Joe has a gift for eliminating excess and simplifying things down to their essence. After looking at Joe's drawings you can see how simple the construction is and how little material is required.

The majority of the parts for this setup appear to be well within the ability of the average DIY hobbyist who can cut a straight line and drill a hole. The parts I asked Joe to make for me were the pieces that I felt needed the most precision: the screw bearings, the anti-backlash nuts, and the guide bearing assemblies. I threw in the tool holder for good measure. All the pieces look really good and are very consistent. The quick test I did with the guide bearings show them to move like butter over the pipe rails and their accuracy looks pretty good for my purposes. Once I start building (assuming that I do things correctly) I will be able to add additional comments.

At the the stage I am at right now, I can say that having Joe help me out by letting HIS machine do much of the tedious work is a real help. So, if you are on the fence about starting a CNC project of your own, I can say that Joe's parts will save you a lot of headache. Considering the cost that commercial machined parts and kits go for, this project is a steal because Joe's inexpensive design will be accurate enough to bootstrap you into being able to build more sophisticated CNC machines (after you cut enough projector cases for you and your friends of course!).

While I am at it, I think it should be acknowledged that Joe put a lot of time and effort into designing a system that will help out all the members of this community. Helping people build CNC machines will only help the Lumenlab community have access to good projector enclosures and keep costs down for everyone. I for one recognize that Joe's contributions to the growth of this community and this DIY projector hobby are enormous and I count myself lucky to have him here. Well done Joe!

In case you didn't feel like reading the entire message above, it bears mentioning that my initial impression upon opening up the package and examining the parts was:

"SWEET!!!"


--------------------------------------------------------------------------

I'm hoping to be able to help others also, I have tried to keep the prices of part as low as possible and also not loose money in the proccess.

Thanks, joe

joecnc2006
06-28-2005, 12:29 AM
Here is another picture of a set of parts I'm mailing out tommarrow..

I have two others i'm making parts for, I like the way the HDPE cuts.. (Very Clean)

Joe

Ken_Shea
06-28-2005, 12:41 AM
Joe,
Those parts look exceptionally nice, I would imagine they will be very pleased and impressed with them.

Ken

joecnc2006
06-28-2005, 01:21 AM
Joe,
Those parts look exceptionally nice, I would imagine they will be very pleased and impressed with them.

Ken

Thanks Ken,

Yes so far they have been surprised when they get them on how they look. and measure up.

Joe

jackasscowboy
07-05-2005, 07:28 PM
I want to let everyone know how much I like the parts I ordered from Joe.

A couple weeks ago I asked Joe to make me some parts. Last week I came home to find a package of parts that absolutely exceeded my expectations. The parts came quick and look excellent.

If any of you are trying to decide whether you should make your own or buy from Joe I'd suggest the latter. I don't know how I would have made these parts myself. Certainly not to the same quality he did.

-Terry

strat
07-05-2005, 07:49 PM
What material is that and what thickness? I have a hard time locating plastic that thick at a reasonable price.
Garry
http://thecuttingboardfactory.com this is where i have been getting stuff from just got an order of some 1" stuff


good job joe best of luck!!!!

ynneb
07-05-2005, 08:49 PM
I want to let everyone know how much I like the parts I ordered from Joe.

A couple weeks ago I asked Joe to make me some parts. Last week I came home to find a package of parts that absolutely exceeded my expectations. The parts came quick and look excellent.

If any of you are trying to decide whether you should make your own or buy from Joe I'd suggest the latter. I don't know how I would have made these parts myself. Certainly not to the same quality he did.

-Terry
What a glowing report !
Good job Joe, and keep us informed of your progress Cowboy.

joecnc2006
07-05-2005, 10:43 PM
I want to let everyone know how much I like the parts I ordered from Joe.

A couple weeks ago I asked Joe to make me some parts. Last week I came home to find a package of parts that absolutely exceeded my expectations. The parts came quick and look excellent.

If any of you are trying to decide whether you should make your own or buy from Joe I'd suggest the latter. I don't know how I would have made these parts myself. Certainly not to the same quality he did.

-Terry

Thanks Cowboy, glad i could help.

Joe

mocnc
07-06-2005, 04:04 PM
Well I have to say this......I too ordered some parts from joe and they are very well done! I have a few more parts that are coming in from joe and I can't wait to receive them. If you are new and are just starting out, get joe to make you some parts......hell from what I seen I would get him to make me the whole machine! If I would have started now I would most definately have joe make my cnc. I know....I know....part of the experience or fun is in the making...but if you are not careful it could easliy double the cost of making it. I say get the cnc from joe or even a few parts made and get yourself on the right track. The when it is all said and done, learn from joe and learn from your second machine that you can make using joe's first! It would be worth it! Joe is a great guy to deal with and is very helpful. I am most definately going to deal again with joe! Thanks Joe for everything!

kd5dhu
07-07-2005, 12:58 PM
Joe,

What model of RotoZip are you using on your router?

Thanks,

Mike

joecnc2006
07-07-2005, 06:27 PM
just the RZ1 now, cheap to replace.

kd5dhu
07-07-2005, 07:05 PM
Joe,

I looked at that one at Home Depot, Couldn't figure how to get the handle strap off with out breaking it. Does the handle strap come off?

BTY: I'm Building the JGRO machine, and attempting to follow the plans exactly with out adding any of my ideas (next machine that will be cut off off this one). Is your tool holder compatible with the JGRO design? If it is I may want to order one. I'm assuming it's compatable with the RotoZip RZ1.

Thanks,

Mike

strat
07-07-2005, 07:28 PM
take a look at sears also they have RZ copy that is a fair unit 20k lo 30k hi spindle 1/4 and 1/8 collets and i paid $30 for it but that was almost a couple years ago
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&fromAuto=YES&bidsite=CRAFT&pid=00917252000

kd5dhu
07-07-2005, 09:12 PM
Strat,

Thanks for the link, I'll go give it a look.

Not to anal but, I'm trying to follow the JGRO plans as much as possible since this is my first CNC machine. But I've already broken that rule!

On the base, instead of building the divided box, I made it one big heavy slab out of 4 chunks of 3/4" MDF glued together. I was afraid if I built it like the plans were laid out it might come out warped. Did the same for the table top.

Instead of using flanged bearings for the threaded rod support, I made blocks with skate bearings, like Joe did for his machines.

And for all the adjustment and threaded rod bearing blocks, they are made from 24mm thick gray PVC sheet, instead of MDF.

Need to get some pictures of it, it's going to be a HEAVY machine!

Mike

joecnc2006
07-08-2005, 07:59 AM
Joe,

I looked at that one at Home Depot, Couldn't figure how to get the handle strap off with out breaking it. Does the handle strap come off?

BTY: I'm Building the JGRO machine, and attempting to follow the plans exactly with out adding any of my ideas (next machine that will be cut off off this one). Is your tool holder compatible with the JGRO design? If it is I may want to order one. I'm assuming it's compatable with the RotoZip RZ1.

Thanks,

Mike

Yes the little flexable handle comes off, i had to pry a little with a small straight screwdriver while sliding the little plastic clips sideways.

The tool holder i have for the roto zip is 6" wide which is the same width as the jgro z axis. so you and make tapped holes and bolt it on.

Joe

txcowdog
07-08-2005, 10:43 AM
Joe,
I was looking at the 3D drawings you posted and was thinking about the allthread whipping. In particular while looking at the gantry I thought about adding something like a pillar block on the back side at the bottom with a skate bearing for the allthread to run through. By adding this extra support to the allthread, do you think this might help with whipping?

joecnc2006
07-18-2005, 05:03 PM
Joe,
I was looking at the 3D drawings you posted and was thinking about the allthread whipping. In particular while looking at the gantry I thought about adding something like a pillar block on the back side at the bottom with a skate bearing for the allthread to run through. By adding this extra support to the allthread, do you think this might help with whipping?

I will give it a try and see what happens, as soon as i have some down time to remove the leadscrew, but sounds like it will help, I can cut at 42ipm above that it starts to whip to much, Sure can not hurt.

Joe

kd5dhu
07-24-2005, 01:31 PM
Joe,

Quick question:

Can you verify the wiring of the HP RH7-1048 Stepper Motors to the HobyCNC 4AUPC board? My machine is the JGRO design.

I have both Japan Servo Co., Ltd. KP56QM2-001 and the MINEBEA Co., Inc -
ASTROSYN 23LM-C701-01 stepper motors. Both types have the same wire/color configuration.

I am ASSUMING that they should be connected, as described on the "4 axis
4AUPC Rev1 Driver Board Kit Contents.xls" dated 03/06/2005, that I should
follow the wiring diagram for the Japan Servo:

A = WHT/RED
a = RED
COM = BLACK
COM = WHITE
b = WHT/GRN
B = GREEN

Here is a spec sheet on the motors I'm using:

www.allsurplus.net/HP-Stepper.pdf

Trying not to make smoke!

Thanks a bunch in advance!

Mike

txcowdog
07-24-2005, 08:05 PM
Hey Joe,

While I am not as far along as Mike I will have the same problem as I also have the HPIII steppers and the HobbyCNC board. Your help hooking these up is greatly appreciated.

txcowdog
07-25-2005, 12:04 AM
Joe,

As long as I'm standing here with my hat in my hand could I ask another question? When you used the three computer power supplier to get your 38v, did you put a capacitor across the output? If so, what size? I had read in another post that it is necessary but now I can't find that post.

Thanks again.

zoltan
08-06-2005, 01:00 AM
Joe,

Can you tell me, please, what parameters are you using when you cut polyamide? I mean speed, rpm, plunge rate..? I want to make the adjustment blocks from polyamide and I could not figure out the parameters.

Thank you,

Zoltan

joecnc2006
08-08-2005, 03:23 AM
I cut at 30ipm, .1" per pass (I like to be safe than sorry), and the rorozip is 30,000rpm.

zoltan
08-08-2005, 03:44 PM
Thank you. At this speed is not melting? I did not try yet to cut polyamide due to the fear that it melts and .....

Zoltan

roadkiller
08-17-2005, 06:56 PM
I was wondering if it was possible to use a router in this setup to cut alluminum sheets (1.5mm max) or copper blocks to make watercooling blocks and what kind of router would be necessary to do this job.

joecnc2006
08-17-2005, 09:17 PM
I was wondering if it was possible to use a router in this setup to cut alluminum sheets (1.5mm max) or copper blocks to make watercooling blocks and what kind of router would be necessary to do this job. 1.5mm alumn should be fine, using slow speed rates, and also lower speed, I swould use an adjustable rotozip, or an adjustable switch wor a router.

joecnc2006
09-14-2005, 10:30 PM
Yes you are correct the wireing listed by hobbycnc for the japan servo works good.

Joe


Joe,

Quick question:

Can you verify the wiring of the HP RH7-1048 Stepper Motors to the HobyCNC 4AUPC board? My machine is the JGRO design.

I have both Japan Servo Co., Ltd. KP56QM2-001 and the MINEBEA Co., Inc -
ASTROSYN 23LM-C701-01 stepper motors. Both types have the same wire/color configuration.

I am ASSUMING that they should be connected, as described on the "4 axis
4AUPC Rev1 Driver Board Kit Contents.xls" dated 03/06/2005, that I should
follow the wiring diagram for the Japan Servo:

A = WHT/RED
a = RED
COM = BLACK
COM = WHITE
b = WHT/GRN
B = GREEN

Here is a spec sheet on the motors I'm using:

www.allsurplus.net/HP-Stepper.pdf

Trying not to make smoke!

Thanks a bunch in advance!

Mike

zoltan
09-15-2005, 01:16 AM
Hi Joe,

I followed your parameters 30-35 ipm, 2 mm depth, but mine is melting at 30K rpm. I went down to 8K. Unfortunately the cutted surface is not smooth and clean. So, my next question is what tool do you use, what type of bit/cutter?

Thank you.

Zoltan

Lionclaw
09-15-2005, 02:51 AM
Zoltan, I had the same problem. I had to follow the cutter with the air compressor to keep the material cool.

strat
09-15-2005, 04:52 AM
when i was getting into it all i went to grizzlys and they set me up with a bit for working plastic it has one flute and cut thru like butter no melt off

joecnc2006
09-15-2005, 11:06 AM
I used a two flute up-cut end mill

zoltan
09-15-2005, 02:42 PM
Thank you to both of you. I got an one flute bit 3 mm, and it really cuts like butter at 800 mm/min and 8K RPM. unfortunately it has only 8 mm active length. I hope to find out one with at least 20 mm. Hopes...

Zoltan

tomcook
09-16-2005, 02:22 AM
hi there i wish to build one of those machine that you created
just gathering info at the moment
got the hardware sorted out in my head
having problems with power sources
i would like to get max peformance out of 200oz in steppers
using a hobbycnc driver board what should i use for power in cheap easy too get form
cheers
tom
ps maybe wrong place to post
but for life of me dont know where elso to post this ques
pss
1/2 13 tpi threed rod is it normal threeded rod or speiacal lead steew
thanks

joecnc2006
09-19-2005, 01:14 PM
hi there i wish to build one of those machine that you created
just gathering info at the moment
got the hardware sorted out in my head
having problems with power sources
i would like to get max peformance out of 200oz in steppers
using a hobbycnc driver board what should i use for power in cheap easy too get form
cheers
tom
ps maybe wrong place to post
but for life of me dont know where elso to post this ques
pss
1/2 13 tpi threed rod is it normal threeded rod or speiacal lead steew
thanks

I would use the power supply parts that Hobby CNC provides then you just add a transformer as recomended by them.

Yes the 1/2"-13tpi is a standard threaded rod.

Thanks, Joe

dneisler
09-24-2005, 04:55 PM
Joe,
I have emailed you about getting your Items you are offering, but so far I have not got a reply other than you stating about 3 weeks, which is fine. Do you still offer the items, just let me know, let me know a total, and I will paypal you the cash imediatly.

Donald Neisler

truman
10-02-2005, 11:19 PM
hey joe you give a package deal for everything customer 2 bought might be interested if you do

joecnc2006
10-03-2005, 01:09 PM
hey joe you give a package deal for everything customer 2 bought might be interested if you do

Not sure what you are asking.

I have a little backlog of about 2 weeks, because of the hurricans here in Tx, I had to get my mom out of the Houston area and now have taken her back, and doing a little repair for her.

dneisler
10-03-2005, 02:21 PM
I contacted you on 9/16, and idea when you will have mine ready? Or when I can see a invoice so I can pay you?

bubbahotep
10-03-2005, 10:57 PM
Joe,

Please PM me at your convenience.

I'd like to order the following from you for a standard JGRO build...


1 - set, Tool Holder for Rotozip Upper and lower = $20.00 (does not include bolts)

1 - set, Nema 23 motor Spacers 3 total = $10.00 all three

3 - sets, Lead Screw Bearing supports = $30.00 (Does not include Bearings)

3 - sets Anti Backlash Nut w/ Tensioner = $15.00 (Includes Nuts 5/16")

6 - Linear Alumn Bearing Block Suports = $45.00 for HDPE (3 sizes 2 ea., 8", 7.5" and 6") (these might not be needed in the standard JGRO, please let me know)

Linear Bearing Slides 1 1/4" angle, with 4 bearings = $18.00 ea. (total 6 needed, 8", 7.5" and 6")


looks like $208.00 plus shipping

Thanks

joecnc2006
10-26-2005, 08:31 AM
Joe,

Please PM me at your convenience.

I'd like to order the following from you for a standard JGRO build...


1 - set, Tool Holder for Rotozip Upper and lower = $20.00 (does not include bolts)

1 - set, Nema 23 motor Spacers 3 total = $10.00 all three

3 - sets, Lead Screw Bearing supports = $30.00 (Does not include Bearings)

3 - sets Anti Backlash Nut w/ Tensioner = $15.00 (Includes Nuts 5/16")

6 - Linear Alumn Bearing Block Suports = $45.00 for HDPE (3 sizes 2 ea., 8", 7.5" and 6") (these might not be needed in the standard JGRO, please let me know)

Linear Bearing Slides 1 1/4" angle, with 4 bearings = $18.00 ea. (total 6 needed, 8", 7.5" and 6")


looks like $208.00 plus shipping

Thanks


Sent you a message... Hope you got it.
thanks, Joe

joecnc2006
10-31-2005, 05:27 PM
Here are the diminsions of the Larger parts of the machine.

kn6398
11-02-2005, 06:55 PM
Hey Joe,
I'm getting ready to build one of your modified CNC and have already ordered your parts. What size pipes and thread rod are you using for the X,Y and Z?

Thanks,
Kray

joecnc2006
11-02-2005, 07:06 PM
Hey Joe,
I'm getting ready to build one of your modified CNC and have already ordered your parts. What size pipes and thread rod are you using for the X,Y and Z?

Thanks,
Kray

1/2" x 18", 3/4"x36" and 1"x60", the threaded rod i used is 5/16-18 same lengths

Rance
11-02-2005, 07:44 PM
...I also have the HPIII steppers and the HobbyCNC board. Your help hooking these up is greatly appreciated.

CowDog,

Don't know if you got an answer on your HPIII steppers. Try http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=60920&postcount=86

kn6398
11-02-2005, 11:00 PM
What about motor size and controller. I plan on getting the Hobby CNC kit with 200oz stepper motors. Will that be good for cutting wood, plastic, foam and aluminum if I can.

txcowdog
11-02-2005, 11:33 PM
Rance,

Thanks for the links. All help is greatly appreciated. I am slowly getting this pile of parts assembled into something recognizable.

joecnc2006
11-02-2005, 11:52 PM
I have the Hobby cnc kit including the 200oz motors and the power suply i got from them, I just have not had the time to put it together its still in the box, I am making a complete hdpe machine and will, be using it with the new motors.

I have not cut alumn yet with it, because i did not want to attempt it with the hp motors, but it does cut mdf, birch ply, and plastic very well.

Joe


What about motor size and controller. I plan on getting the Hobby CNC kit with 200oz stepper motors. Will that be good for cutting wood, plastic, foam and aluminum if I can.

joecnc2006
11-07-2005, 10:25 PM
Here is the transformer I rewound and will be using in the near future on the CNC Machine. I striped a Transformer out of an old Microwave oven which has a primary side 120vac and a secondary side 2,000vac.

1st picture you can see how it looked after removal.

2nd picture is the secondary 2,000vac removed (used jigsaw, then a 1/2" drill bit), I need to point out at this point it is very important not to mess up or scar the Primary winding, which has a protective varnish on it.

3rd picture was a test with two winds to figure out how to get 24vac, result was 1.9 +/- which makes 26 windings.

4th picture is the final result of my total two hours of labor. final result was 24.2vac - 24.3vac, the fluctuation in current could be because I just used clips to make the connections.

Mr.Chips
11-08-2005, 12:24 AM
[QUOTE=joe2000che]Here is the transformer I rewound and will be using in the near future on the CNC Machine. I striped a Transformer out of an old Microwave oven which has a primary side 120vac and a secondary side 2,000vac.


Good job!

How many watts will it output?

Thanks,

Hager

mhiggins
11-08-2005, 12:30 AM
Joe,

What gage wire did you use in the rewinding of your microwave transformer? And, was it solid or stranded?

I am under the impression, maybe incorrectly, that the gage of the wire will have a bearing on the current output. Have you tested to see how many amps your transformer produces?

Thanks,
Mike

joecnc2006
11-08-2005, 01:10 AM
[QUOTE=joe2000che]Here is the transformer I rewound and will be using in the near future on the CNC Machine. I striped a Transformer out of an old Microwave oven which has a primary side 120vac and a secondary side 2,000vac.


Good job!

How many watts will it output?

Thanks,

Hager

Not sure how to measure the watts or amps with my meter, I got 0.3omhs when it is off.

Joe

joecnc2006
11-08-2005, 01:11 AM
Joe,

What gage wire did you use in the rewinding of your microwave transformer? And, was it solid or stranded?

I am under the impression, maybe incorrectly, that the gage of the wire will have a bearing on the current output. Have you tested to see how many amps your transformer produces?

Thanks,
Mike

I used 14g solid wire.

How do i calc the amps with meter?

mhiggins
11-08-2005, 10:48 AM
I used 14g solid wire.

How do i calc the amps with meter?


Amps=volts/ohms

I thought you would test the resistance in the secondary coil then plug it into the above formula but 24.3V/0.3Ohms=81Amp. That sounds really high.

Can anyone else out there shed some light on this?

Lionclaw
11-08-2005, 11:12 AM
Nice work on the power supply Joe. Have any ideas on where to source the transformers? I was thinking of hitting the good will store...

joecnc2006
11-08-2005, 12:37 PM
Nice work on the power supply Joe. Have any ideas on where to source the transformers? I was thinking of hitting the good will store...

If you just call an appliance repair shop they may have some they just throw away because it is not worth fixing for them.

joecnc2006
11-09-2005, 05:56 AM
Tonight I had the transformer pluged in for an hour and 1/2 with a fan on it and it got up to 117deg. only and was a constant 24.1vac, I will be using a 120mm fan for cooling the power and control box.

Here is the Solidworks file I did and modeled after the HobbyCNC plates. And Will cut out on the CNC, Also Thinking of using Lexan for the front and back plates with Floresent Blue Light Inside to make it look nice and to see the insides.

Joe

joecnc2006
11-11-2005, 12:08 AM
Ok here is the finished power/controller box cut on the CNC, with clear front.

joecnc2006
11-11-2005, 09:48 PM
Here is the final result 36.5vdc, ran it for an hour and only voltage fluctuated 0.1vdc

HayTay
11-13-2005, 11:55 PM
Joe2000Chevy,

I'm trying to follow in your footsteps but keep getting lost on the path. :confused: I noticed your using SolidWorks for your modeling and somehow getting working g-code from your part drawings. Can you enlighten me (us) on how this is done? Inquiring minds would like to know.

I've been furiously downloading trial/demo versions of CAM software but can't seem to figure out, or find, one that will produce a cut part that looks anything like the one that I (re)modeled. I'm trying to keep it simple and attempting to produce the g-code for the JGRO designed Y BEARING BLOCK - cnc_dtl30. Everyone has access to the drawing from the download section and it's a simple rectangular part with 2 grooves/slots and 4 holes (see picture).

Issues include (but are not limited to):
1. Inside & outside cuts are incorrectly determined.
2. Holes are way too large (3-4 times bigger than the material stock!).
3. Grooves, slots, chamfers, blind holes, pockets, etc. are cut completely through the material instead of to the correct depth.
4. Final part is sized incorrectly. Part is either too large, too small, or incorrectly proportioned.

My current setup includes the following:
1. JGRO machine design using HP LaserJet II/III stepper motors
2. Xylotex XS4430U unipolar stepper motor controller
3. SolidWorks PE (Personal Edition/90-day trial version)
4. ??? CAM Software ??? (T.B.D.)
5. ArtSoft Mach3 CNC controller software
6. ??? Other requirements ???

Maybe a wiki (http://www.wikipedia.org/) could be started as a work in progress that takes us from what file format to save in, through the CAM software your using, and into g-code that's "ready-to-cut".

Any help would be greatly appreciated,

Harry

joecnc2006
11-15-2005, 09:57 AM
I could not get a good cam program to work for me because i did not have the time to sit down and learn it, What you really should start with is a DWG file and use a DWG to G-code program, start with a 2d drawing not a 3d drawing of part only, then in the software choose each line and tell the program the width depth etc. untill every thing is acounted for in the drawing, maybe use a highlighter and take notes as you go. then run it in a cnc simulatar program to physically see the part alot of these programs are open source.

Joe


Joe2000Chevy,

I'm trying to follow in your footsteps but keep getting lost on the path. :confused: I noticed your using SolidWorks for your modeling and somehow getting working g-code from your part drawings. Can you enlighten me (us) on how this is done? Inquiring minds would like to know.

I've been furiously downloading trial/demo versions of CAM software but can't seem to figure out, or find, one that will produce a cut part that looks anything like the one that I (re)modeled. I'm trying to keep it simple and attempting to produce the g-code for the JGRO designed Y BEARING BLOCK - cnc_dtl30. Everyone has access to the drawing from the download section and it's a simple rectangular part with 2 grooves/slots and 4 holes (see picture).

Issues include (but are not limited to):
1. Inside & outside cuts are incorrectly determined.
2. Holes are way too large (3-4 times bigger than the material stock!).
3. Grooves, slots, chamfers, blind holes, pockets, etc. are cut completely through the material instead of to the correct depth.
4. Final part is sized incorrectly. Part is either too large, too small, or incorrectly proportioned.

My current setup includes the following:
1. JGRO machine design using HP LaserJet II/III stepper motors
2. Xylotex XS4430U unipolar stepper motor controller
3. SolidWorks PE (Personal Edition/90-day trial version)
4. ??? CAM Software ??? (T.B.D.)
5. ArtSoft Mach3 CNC controller software
6. ??? Other requirements ???

Maybe a wiki (http://www.wikipedia.org/) could be started as a work in progress that takes us from what file format to save in, through the CAM software your using, and into g-code that's "ready-to-cut".

Any help would be greatly appreciated,

Harry

truman
11-18-2005, 07:22 PM
Ok here is the finished power/controller box cut on the CNC, with clear front.

hi Joe would you be willing to show the internals of your power supply in a few pics I have all of my parts and could use some visual help, also what size cap did you use

thank you

Rob

joecnc2006
11-19-2005, 12:36 PM
Here is the insides, It is the HobbyCNC power kit, the cap size is 50v 68,000uf

Hope that helps.

Joe



hi Joe would you be willing to show the internals of your power supply in a few pics I have all of my parts and could use some visual help, also what size cap did you use

thank you

Rob

truman
11-20-2005, 04:38 PM
yes that did help alot my power supply wll be using the components recomended on Phils site basically the same setup as yours.

thank you

Rob

WilliamD
11-20-2005, 07:34 PM
Could you wire a couple of these in series to get a higher voltage? Or would you just use more windings? Where do you get these "caps" and "bridges?" Any help would be greatly appreciated! :)

joecnc2006
11-20-2005, 08:06 PM
Could you wire a couple of these in series to get a higher voltage? Or would you just use more windings? Where do you get these "caps" and "bridges?" Any help would be greatly appreciated! :)everything came from HobbyCNC as a Axis Kit, controllor Board, Motors, and power unit less the transformer.

Yes you can either use two power units in series, or use more windings, However since i used shielded wire I cound only force 26 turns into it which was just enough for what i wanted.

Joe

truman
11-20-2005, 09:26 PM
in the simple power supply link on Phils site there are links to components, you can order your transformer for $18.00 if you live in the U.S but if you don't they want a min order of $100.00 U.S to ship unfortunately I live in Canada so I had to hunt one down I found one for $30.00 Canadian at a surplus store called Sayal 24VCT 10A. From what I have been reading series will increase voltage parallel will increase amps I have also seen multiple transformers one for each axis in power supplies on this site which would be the way I might go if I build another.

Rance
11-20-2005, 11:20 PM
...series will increase voltage parallel will increase amps. I have also seen multiple transformers one for each axis in power supplies on this site which would be the way I might go if I build another.

Rob,

You can't always put power supplies in parallel. The one with just a smidgen higher voltage will take the bulk of the load. You'd have to buffer them from each other using resistors or similar. You'd be better off with one power supply for each axis rather than trying the parallel thing.

Rance

WilliamD
12-13-2005, 10:53 PM
Joe, how would you figure the amps on that powersupply? Have you used it yet, and it's worked? I'm not really worried about the amps then if it seems to work. Is there a reason you used shielded wire? I am building the exact same powersupply, and have some unshielded wire, and am wondering if it will do the same as shielded. I love your new machine, you seem to be somewhat of an expert on these machines. :)

joecnc2006
12-13-2005, 11:27 PM
Joe, how would you figure the amps on that powersupply? Have you used it yet, and it's worked? I'm not really worried about the amps then if it seems to work. Is there a reason you used shielded wire? I am building the exact same powersupply, and have some unshielded wire, and am wondering if it will do the same as shielded. I love your new machine, you seem to be somewhat of an expert on these machines. :)

The shielded wire was just what i could get real easy, and also so i did not have to coat the bare wire, If you have the bare wire that is better and able to use more windings, I have only tested the bench tested the power supply, and have the motors on the gantry on my New CNC Model 2007. still in the build proccess.

I'm no expert by anymeans, I have just taked ideas found here and implimented them and added a few of my own to make it all work together.

Joe

Blackhawk
12-17-2005, 11:48 PM
Wow, you have really inspired me! My dad agreed to reward me with something new for my hobby (RC Planes) or something else in the price range (300-400ish) and I was going to get an rc transmitter, but now I'm thinking this is the ticket! I have wanted to design my own rc plane and kit it for a while, and now I'll be able to do it. I'll start off with a good machine and opensource software, none of the parts I'll be making at first will require 3D, and once I've sold enough kits I'll buy nice software and a transmitter too! This could be my summer job lol.

joecnc2006
12-29-2005, 08:41 PM
Well the time has just about come when I need to dismantal this machine to make room for the New one, I just have to figure out what i want to do with it, Sell it, store it to run two machines later, use parts from it to build a very small pcb unit. not sure yet.

If someone thinks they can use it let me know you can make an offer, i have 4 hp 100oz motors one for spare, Hobby CNC Controllor board, three ATX power supplies running in series with floating ground (32.6v 8a output).

Joe

scott wiggins
03-09-2006, 02:50 PM
Are you still making the parts and do you still have the motors, controller, etc for sale?
Scott

joecnc2006
03-09-2006, 06:40 PM
Are you still making the parts and do you still have the motors, controller, etc for sale?
Scott

I sold everything for the second machine already, I am making parts for the new Model 2006

ras97
04-06-2006, 12:50 PM
Hi,

I'm belgian and I would like you excuses me because I don't speak very good English.

I hope you will understand me.

Your CNC router looks very very good and I think I will build one likes yours (I hope).

It is possible to have some dimensions of different parts on a plan? Could you publish some dimensions on this forum?

What price would you take for send a plan with dimensions of your CNC router?


Thank you very much.



Julien.

truman
04-06-2006, 01:06 PM
I believe all of the drawings are in pdf on page 10 if that helps Julien

joecnc2006
04-06-2006, 01:44 PM
I believe all of the drawings are in pdf on page 10 if that helps Julien

Correct, the other things not in my PDF's are the portions of the JGRO that was not modified, This was a Modified JGRO machine.

I have moved on further, and produced a better machine in my opinion known to some as CNC Model 2006 r-2... you can just list the post started by me (username)

Joe

ras97
04-07-2006, 02:17 PM
Hi,

Ok, thank you, and excuse me because I dont have seen the acrobats pages.

Julien.

Indy
04-13-2006, 01:45 PM
Does this design use the threaded mdf like the jgro machine?

hines
04-13-2006, 03:14 PM
Here is a link to Joe's new machine

http://cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15139

joecnc2006
04-13-2006, 04:13 PM
Does this design use the threaded mdf like the jgro machine?

Yes, but i have moved on to a much better machine.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15139

No threaded MDF to be concerned about.

Joe

truman
08-01-2006, 05:08 PM
hey Joe how did you do the joinery on the gantry?

Drakkn
11-07-2006, 06:38 AM
Hi Joe

Is there a build plan that tells you which is the best order to build your unit.
I have decided to make from aluminium and have found someone local who can cut for me.So I need to know which order to get the parts cut so I can start assembly on one area while he makes the next area if you see what I mean

joecnc2006
11-07-2006, 08:50 AM
for the second machine, as the same with all machines i usually start with the X-axis and build my way up to the Z-axis, Its like having the foundation first.

pelletman
05-13-2007, 03:44 AM
Hi Joe, and vevryone on cnc zone. im to to cnc zone your 2nd machene looks great where can i got a set of plans for it.

thanks tom

ger21
05-13-2007, 07:41 AM
.dwg and .dxf here.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37399

pelletman
05-15-2007, 07:14 PM
Joe,

Love your work, do you sell any kits for your fitst or 2nd machine. i really dont have the space to cut all the parts.

thanks tom

joecnc2006
06-11-2007, 11:08 AM
A member asked if I would know or post if someone would be interested in a kit that i had made for him, All HDPE no MDF in this one, His name is Ralph you can post if interested and you can work out details here or with him.

here is a picture of the parts (once again all HDPE)