Drawer Slide CNC

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 47

Thread: Drawer Slide CNC

  1. #1
    Registered
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    US
    Posts
    44
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default Drawer Slide CNC

    This is my newly finished Hardware store CNC machine. Let me know what you think!



    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ki6YhrPeuQM]Home made CNC with hardware store parts - YouTube

    Similar Threads:


  2. #2
    Registered
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    US
    Posts
    44
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Here are some pictures:


















  3. #3
    Registered judleroy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    406
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    You have done an excellent job. It seems to work very smoothly. A great machine to get into Cnc.
    Judleroy



  4. #4
    Registered
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    US
    Posts
    44
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by judleroy View Post
    You have done an excellent job. It seems to work very smoothly. A great machine to get into Cnc.
    Judleroy
    Thank you!

    I have a lot to learn, but I'm certainly addicted. I have been working on my code writing, in the video I have a lot of unnecessary and redundant machine moves. I have reduced my cut time dramatically just from experimenting.

    I think I have less than $200 into the machine....including electronics. I also designed and built it rather quickly...less than 2 weeks, after work.



  5. #5
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    2392
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Nice build! That's a good arrangement for getting reliable motion from drawer slides.

    One weak point looks to be the use of a single narrow rail for the Z axis, that's a lot of side leverage there on that narrow rail. I would be tempted to screw a flate plate of wood to the Z structure, then use 2 drawer slides for Z or 2 rails/rods of some type.

    And maybe lower Z a little bit, to give you a bit more rigidity to cut out flat stock as being "addicted" I'm guessing you will use this machine to make parts for the next one...



  6. #6
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    canada
    Posts
    1662
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jkarisny View Post
    I think I have less than $200 into the machine....including electronics.
    What are the details of the electronics ?
    You've built yourself a very cool unit for $200.

    Anyone who says "It only goes together one way" has no imagination.


  7. #7
    Registered
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    US
    Posts
    44
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cyclestart View Post
    What are the details of the electronics ?
    You've built yourself a very cool unit for $200.

    I have the TB6560 driver ($22), a 12v power supply ($12) off ebay and small 5.3v/ .75A stepper motors ($10).

    For the computer running the whole deal, I used a HP Pavillion 503n I had laying around.

    How do you guys wire up everything? I want sockets on the cpu case that I can plug the steppers into, so I don't have to drill holes and use grommets. As you see from the pictures below, I need to clean up the wiring.











  8. #8
    Registered
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    US
    Posts
    44
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RomanLini View Post
    Nice build! That's a good arrangement for getting reliable motion from drawer slides.

    One weak point looks to be the use of a single narrow rail for the Z axis, that's a lot of side leverage there on that narrow rail. I would be tempted to screw a flate plate of wood to the Z structure, then use 2 drawer slides for Z or 2 rails/rods of some type.

    And maybe lower Z a little bit, to give you a bit more rigidity to cut out flat stock as being "addicted" I'm guessing you will use this machine to make parts for the next one...

    Thank you!
    I was thinking the same thing about the Z, but turns out, it's the strongest axis! The part I need to make is the router mount itself, as you can see I have a pipe clamp and some wire holding it on.

    And yes, It's already cutting parts for the next machine....



  9. #9
    Registered
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    BCS Mexico
    Posts
    177
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    I love it!!! Well done and don't worry about cleaning up the wires....



  10. #10
    Registered
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    US
    Posts
    44
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by EBC View Post
    I love it!!! Well done and don't worry about cleaning up the wires....
    Thanks!

    Even though it doesn't look like much, I still want to clean up the wiring so It can be more mobile. I still need to build a large base/cabinet for it. I'll post some pics after I find some 6 pin sockets and plugs...



  11. #11
    Registered
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    1
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    I like it!
    Most of it appears very simple...cut and dry!
    What did you use to drive the steppers and where did you obtain them?



  12. #12
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    2392
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jkarisny View Post
    ...
    The part I need to make is the router mount itself, as you can see I have a pipe clamp and some wire holding it on.
    ...
    Take a look at this for a cheap $29.99 spindle choice;
    http://www.harborfreight.com/electri...aft-44141.html



    That will be easier to mount than the Dremel and a much better functioning spindle.



  13. #13
    Registered
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    US
    Posts
    44
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RomanLini View Post
    Take a look at this for a cheap $29.99 spindle choice;
    Electric Die Grinder with Long Shaft



    That will be easier to mount than the Dremel and a much better functioning spindle.
    You really think it will be a better spindle? I can see it being easier to mount. I just used the dremel because I had it but it seems to have some run-out. Does anyone use the Harbor Freight spindle? I'd be interested to see how those bearings are compared to the dremel.



  14. #14
    Registered judleroy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    406
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    It's a die grinder so it should have better bearings. As for tuning that's questionable. If it were me I'd save up for a Bosch colt or similar small router. Dremal tools do not have good bearings and are not very rigid although it is a good starter spindle.
    Judleroy



  15. #15
    Registered judleroy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    406
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Sorry instead of "tuning" it should say runout. These iPads auto correct spelling even when you don't want them to.
    Judleroy



  16. #16
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    8082
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    That die grinder's manual says it's 14 inches overall length and weighs a little over 4 pounds, 500 watt, 25k rpm. It is considerably more power than a Dremel, and far more rigid where it counts.

    The big question is what is the typical run-out of these things. I doubt it is as good as most routers considering the intended uses of a die grinder.

    CarveOne

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  17. #17
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    2392
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Yeah it definitely has MUCH better bearing support in the cast metal "neck" then a Dremel has in it's flimsy plastic neck... Although sorry to the OP, I didn't realise they were over 4 pounds!

    CarveOne- usually die-grinding is an application where the runout needs to be pretty small, most air die grinders for instance are pretty good. But these are all probably made in the far east by some factory contracted to the lowest dollar bid... So runout is anyone's guess. I'm still using a cheap brand router with good runout but I hand picked it in the store and it was the third one tested. The other 2 were nasty. And a lot of that is the collets too I think.



  18. #18
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    8082
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RomanLini View Post
    Yeah it definitely has MUCH better bearing support in the cast metal "neck" then a Dremel has in it's flimsy plastic neck... Although sorry to the OP, I didn't realise they were over 4 pounds!

    CarveOne- usually die-grinding is an application where the runout needs to be pretty small, most air die grinders for instance are pretty good. But these are all probably made in the far east by some factory contracted to the lowest dollar bid... So runout is anyone's guess. I'm still using a cheap brand router with good runout but I hand picked it in the store and it was the third one tested. The other 2 were nasty. And a lot of that is the collets too I think.
    I'm 100 miles from the nearest Harbor Freight store (they know me all too well though) and I've never seen one at that store. I've never seen or used one either, so run-out was the first question. It also seemed to be a bit unwieldy for use on a small CNC machine, but if it clears the ceiling ...... and doesn't topple the machine over on fast direction reversals ....... then it might work perfectly for General Overkill's CNC machine.

    CarveOne

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  19. #19
    Registered
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    US
    Posts
    44
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Yikes, over 4 pounds!?

    I don't think my tiny little steppers could handle that amount of weight. I guess I could upgrade, but I'd rather not. Wonder if I could add a spring assist, to lessen the "weight"? Has anyone done this?



  20. #20
    Registered
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    61
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Good job, the setup looks clean. Is that a linear rail in the z-axis?

    I am also building a drawer-slide low cost CNC, I had started a thread a while back, you might be able to find it. My design has only x-axis with drawer slides (slides in a vertical position). It is going very slow due to lack of time.

    However, one thing that I have noticed is that the 100 lbs load bearing drawer slides are great for in-plane, but have a lot of play in the out-of-plane direction (+z direction the way you mounted them). I am afraid that if your dremel catches even slightly on the work piece, it will lift your entire x-y table up with it. This is the reason I mounted mine in a vertical direction with mechanical constraints in the out-of-plane direction.



Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


About CNCzone.com

    We are the largest and most active discussion forum for manufacturing industry. The site is 100% free to join and use, so join today!

Follow us on


Our Brands

Drawer Slide CNC

Drawer Slide CNC