XZero DemonX 110 inch build

[azam1959]

i learned what a grease gun was but now that i am ready to use it i saw number of videos on youtube and i will return the grease gun i bought (still in the box). i ordered following grease gun; little expensive but i hope it will be easier if i can put the gun on stable place and just take the hose to the grease fitting. hope i will get it in few days.

http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Lubrication-1162-Automatic-Pneumatic/dp/B0019COQ6C/ref=zg_bs_15707871_4]Amazon.com: Lincoln Lubrication 1162 Fully Automatic Pneumatic Grease Gun: Home Improvement

mill and lathe i am getting next month do have one shot oiler but if those machines or any of my woodworking machine need greasing, this gun will be helpful.

i am glad i brought the machine build to a logical end point yesterday. if anything is incomplete it would been a struggle b/w my mind and body (which is not able to get off the bed today).

Will be off for few days to recoup from activities from last couple of days.

second picture is the proof that now i know what a grease gun is :-) i am not shy advertising my ignorance with my dumb question and hope i will keep learning.

Regards,

Attachment 156832

Attachment 156833

[azam1959]

making sloooow progress

1) Fixed the rails for x and y axis. i thought x axis rails will slip with gentry weight but i was wrong, rail is holding the position. only one issue here ... two of the screws close to end of the rail lost contact with the t nut inside (from very start i know that screws should be little longer) so i have to use bit more force to move gentry towards the end due to some slop in rail in the end. i will not worry about this for now but if motor can not handle this additional load, i may have to disassemble the machine or give up few inches of work area (which is fine for now)

2) gentry is moving very smoothly when i move the x axis ball screw by hand. on each turn, there is a point where i feel some friction. this resistance/friction significantly reduces when i loose screws on motor side bearing holder. George asked me to try to loose screws on the ballnut and then try to tighten bearing holder screws. will give this a shot next time i am in basement.

3) start putting in the table top. holes on one of the profile are perfect. i had to move second profile due to inaccurate cut and now holes are all messed up. I drilled few holes by hand and i guess i have to drill around 40 more holes from hand drill :-( no happy but this is the price of learning. i am not in hurry and have no deadline (actually i will like to complete the machine before i get my mill and lathe in 4-5 weeks)

old iphone gave up on me, but may be this is a sign to refresh technology and get ipad, no photos till i get ipad ... oh well. grease gun is already shipped and George also shipped one more box. from what i gathered, after George's last shipment i am still missing at least motor mounts and i think Geoge also mentioned that he is sending z axis and one more coupling, did not quite get it but i will find out in few days.

cheers

[azam1959]

was not well but do cherish few hours i was able to spend on the build.

1) I put on the table top. on the one end back plate seem to be curved compared to table top. Will post the picture when I get he camera (already ordered it and will take couple of weeks, just can not go and get it from bestbuy). On the other end of the table, there is about an inch slit between the table top and end end plate. Will not effect functionality but do reflect on craftsmanship.

2) Got the grease gun. compressor interface came with the gun was incompatible with my compressor. I have two nail guns and one of them is rarely used. I just took the interface from this gun and put it on the gun. Also loaded the grease but am exhausted right now and I know that greasing may need more time then I can spend right now.

3) George sent me Y axis spacer, cable tray and two couplers. I am still missing motor mount and there is no commitment on when i will get this.

4) now the challenge ... coupler do have a very small hole in the center but dmm motors do have a larger shaft. additionally motor do have a key which is suppose to connect ballscrew->coupler->motor. coupler i got, does not have any space for the key. bottom line George sent me wrong couplers. George told me to just make the hole in the coupler and throw away the key and tight coupler screw and it will provide enough friction for motor to run the ballscrew. not sure this will work. i did post on dmm thread about coupler and seem like i will need broach machine to make the slot in the coupler. I did not check the price but saw the picture of broach machine and i don't think i will be getting this machine for one function.

I also spent some time on alignment and at this point x axis ball screw move very smoothly and i expect this to get even better after greasing. after greasing i have to complete the y axis assembly and put the spindle. things does not work first time for me but i think i am close to be be done if George help me with coupler and motor mount.

George,
You told me to buy dmm kit. Please help me with the coupler. I also need the commitment on motor mount. Person on the dmm thread mentioned that he has to cut motor shaft half an inch for his motor mount to work. I do not have skill to cut the motor shaft, please make sure that motor mount do work with the motor. Heeeeeeeeelp

[theremin]

1) I put on the table top. On the other end of the table, there is about an inch slit between the table top and end end plate. Will not effect functionality but do reflect on craftsmanship.

You might have the table positioned too far towards the end with no gap. Since the table comes in 6 inch widths, you're kind of stuck with an overall table length that is a multiple of 6. If the table is overlapping the end piece on one end but coming up short on the other, you might be able to split the difference by moving the entire table just a bit.

Dave

[azam1959]

table position is not an issue. I started with one end and table top is touching the end of two profiles at one end but there is gap b/w table top and end plate; even if i try i can not deflect 1 inch thick end plate and i have no logical explanation for this gap. On the other end there is 1-2 inch space b/w last table top and end plate. six inch multiple is the explanation for 1-2 inch gap but this shows oversight from vendor though .... profile and ball screw should be cut so that there is no gap.

i think i need to move dust from an old camera i have and try to post few pictures. may be during the weekend.

my main issue at this point is not these cosmetic things. without motor mount and right type of coupler i will not be able to use the machine and i do not see a way to resolve this issue. i do not have skill or resources.

You might have the table positioned too far towards the end with no gap. Since the table comes in 6 inch widths, you're kind of stuck with an overall table length that is a multiple of 6. If the table is overlapping the end piece on one end but coming up short on the other, you might be able to split the difference by moving the entire table just a bit.

Dave

[azam1959]

do remember that i have to put the pictures of end plate curvature. old camera did not work, have to wait for couple of weeks till i get ipad. i will put on the picture.

greasing was non event. i did not have grease interface on one of the z axis bearing and i put in the 90 degree fitting i bought. i think fitting i bought worked better compared to one came with the bearing. getting grease gun with flex hose was also a good decision. i do have some confusion if i was able to fill up bearings with the grease and next time i will remove the grease fitting and use the interface Dave mentioned couple of weeks ago.

i did log tight y ball bearing concern couple of weeks ago. now that i have parts, i assemble y axis plate. i was right, i had to take out the grease fitting from y axis ball screw. no harm done and no major design issue here but only surprise is George was not able to provide correct info when i talked to him about my concern or may be i did not communicate the issue clearly.

as for motor mount, George is working with his supplier and i think i should be able to get motor mount in a week or two. thanks George.

i am also getting help from my mentor on making key slot on the coupler

will be back with more progress and photos after i get motor mount.

[azam1959]

forgot to ask two questions .... after greasing i put on the last piece of table top. Although there is 1+ inch slite, I do see slite getting thinner in the middle. what i am trying to say is that i see inward deflection on both the end plates.

1) Is it common for a machine to have longer profile/extrusion and slightly shorter ball screw?
2) Is it possible to bend two one inch thick and may be 4-5 inch wide (with effective span of 50 inch) with four bearing holder screws? These plates are very heavy duty and if i am no seeing the deflection i will not believe that these screws are able to create deflection in heavy duty end plates. of course other explanation is that this is by design and i did not notice the deflection before assembly.

lets say my suspicion is correct and ball screw is little shorter then profile, i think it is good for the machine right? this will prevent ball screw deflection in the middle by providing tension at both ends.

thanks for any insight you have.

ps: i think i do need a camera asap. lets see what can i do to post pictures soon.

cheers

do remember that i have to put the pictures of end plate curvature. old camera did not work, have to wait for couple of weeks till i get ipad. i will put on the picture.

greasing was non event. i did not have grease interface on one of the z axis bearing and i put in the 90 degree fitting i bought. i think fitting i bought worked better compared to one came with the bearing. getting grease gun with flex hose was also a good decision. i do have some confusion if i was able to fill up bearings with the grease and next time i will remove the grease fitting and use the interface Dave mentioned couple of weeks ago.

i did log tight y ball bearing concern couple of weeks ago. now that i have parts, i assemble y axis plate. i was right, i had to take out the grease fitting from y axis ball screw. no harm done and no major design issue here but only surprise is George was not able to provide correct info when i talked to him about my concern or may be i did not communicate the issue clearly.

as for motor mount, George is working with his supplier and i think i should be able to get motor mount in a week or two. thanks George.

i am also getting help from my mentor on making key slot on the coupler

will be back with more progress and photos after i get motor mount.

[azam1959]

Friends,
Here are the photos. Name of the photos are descriptive; three photos each from front and back end plate. I tried to keep the camera at the same distance in all the six close ups and hope that folks can see that plate is bending inward. Hope to hear some logical explanation and if there is any issue find the solution.

I do remember ball screw had resistance at one point in each rotation and loosening the bearing holder screws did help. I don't think screws are over tighten but in morning I will loose the screws and see if plate come back to original position.

Last photo is when I thought I followed George's advise and assembled the y axis knowing that space is tight. Mark in the picture is made by y axis ball screw grease fitting on the y axis plate. I disassembled the y axis plate quickly and don't think there is any damage to y axis ball screw.

forgot to ask two questions .... after greasing i put on the last piece of table top. Although there is 1+ inch slite, I do see slite getting thinner in the middle. what i am trying to say is that i see inward deflection on both the end plates.

1) Is it common for a machine to have longer profile/extrusion and slightly shorter ball screw?
2) Is it possible to bend two one inch thick and may be 4-5 inch wide (with effective span of 50 inch) with four bearing holder screws? These plates are very heavy duty and if i am no seeing the deflection i will not believe that these screws are able to create deflection in heavy duty end plates. of course other explanation is that this is by design and i did not notice the deflection before assembly.

lets say my suspicion is correct and ball screw is little shorter then profile, i think it is good for the machine right? this will prevent ball screw deflection in the middle by providing tension at both ends.

thanks for any insight you have.

ps: i think i do need a camera asap. lets see what can i do to post pictures soon.

cheers

[azam1959]

of course first the question. do you think i should move the z axis down? there is about 8 inches available below the assembly and spindle do have five inches below spindle mount plate and then material thickness and bit height. i think i am ok here but not sure, will like to do it right but even if this is not right, it will not be difficult to fix if this does not work. I do have smaller screws and larger screws and fortunately I so have one right size screw. i will take the right size screw to the shop and get more. if i get any advise on moving the z axis, i will implement it now before putting in the right size screws.




now some update on end plate curvature. screws for x axis bearing holder were not very tight to start with. ball screw is moving very smoothly. i loosen screws on both the side and do not see any gap appearing b/w bearing holder and end plate. i will like to understand why i have curvature but at this point i do not think there is anything wrong with ballscrew length. i will keep the screws loose for few hours to see if it takes some time for ball screw to come to original size but i do have serious doubt that i will find anything there. i also checked the joint b/w profile and end plate and it is flush. if i do not have reinforcement l channel i know that profile will deflect a bit and curvature will not be this much noticeable.

Friends,
Here are the photos. Name of the photos are descriptive; three photos each from front and back end plate. I tried to keep the camera at the same distance in all the six close ups and hope that folks can see that plate is bending inward. Hope to hear some logical explanation and if there is any issue find the solution.

I do remember ball screw had resistance at one point in each rotation and loosening the bearing holder screws did help. I don't think screws are over tighten but in morning I will loose the screws and see if plate come back to original position.

Last photo is when I thought I followed George's advise and assembled the y axis knowing that space is tight. Mark in the picture is made by y axis ball screw grease fitting on the y axis plate. I disassembled the y axis plate quickly and don't think there is any damage to y axis ball screw.

[gio666]

The reason there is tension when tightening bearing house is because you don't have end frame mounted right.there is a massive gap on end frame to profile. Ballscrew are very soft on ends after they are machined ,so I would not know if end is bent now on machined end as it would be the weakest of the parts being joined and take all the force because none of the other parts will move .

[azam1959]

Thanks George. I do had issue with uneven reinforcement channel end and it may be contributing the gap. I will go and double check.
Can you please elaborate following sentence ...

Regards,

[QUOTE=gio666;1103581]. Ballscrew are very soft on ends after they are machined ,so I would not know if end is bent now on machined end .

[azam1959]

George,

clarification .... these posts have nothing to do about the merit of XZero quality or finger pointing, last thing i want is you being defensive, no need for that, your machines are very good quality .... i am new in this field and need help.

i did go back in the basement and do not see any massive gap (compared to inward curve). on one joint, one of the screw is loose either issue with the screw or the threads in the profile but even in that case, gap is very small compared to the curve and not convinced that gap is contributing factor here. I also checked on the side and underneath the joints and do not see any issue there. I am posting closeups of joints, please help me understand the curve if you can. again, functionality is not compromised as i see it by manual rotation of ball screw.

The reason there is tension when tightening bearing house is because you don't have end frame mounted right.there is a massive gap on end frame to profile. Ballscrew are very soft on ends after they are machined ,so I would not know if end is bent now on machined end as it would be the weakest of the parts being joined and take all the force because none of the other parts will move .