LinkBack URL
About LinkBacksor just put 2 nuts and 2 washer on stud and leveling would be easy
or just put 2 nuts and 2 washer on stud and leveling would be easy
XZero CNC
And would be better to have machine a bit higher so nothing gets caught under gantry
XZero CNC
If not bolted to table, first run at high speed machine will be on floor
XZero CNC
This certainly sounds like the way to go. Don't want the thing to fly off the table. HA!Originally Posted by gio666
How deep are the holes in the bottom for the M8s?
(I just want to figure out how long of screws I need to get when I get my washers.)
Does this look correct for my z axis?
Yes is right how you have it, you can also separate bearing blocks one more bolt hole and Z axis will be stronger
XZero CNC
It's been a while since i have posted an update.
Progress has slowed just a bit.
Can anyone point me to some information about wiring up proximity switches to the G540? To save inputs would you wire them in parallel?
I found this thread: G540 and proximity switches
It goes from complex to simple.
Thoughts?
Sorry for the slow progress. It's been crazy the last few weeks. I have a vacation coming up starting on the 6th. Over the ten days I plan to do my best to finish the project and make my first cuts. I have two main issues to address.
1. I need to fix my table so it is more appropriate for my router. I did not think about mounting my router to the table. (Brain Dead Move! Ha!) I have support structures where I need to run bolts to the router. This should not be a big deal but it may require me to bolt on a piece of angle iron to the front. So I need to pickup some stuff. (I wish it was easier to get metric stuff in my neck of the woods...oh well.)
2. Setup the Electronics. I am using a Gecko G540. Here is the part that I am confused with I am using proximity switches for the Home/Limit. 5 in all The G540 has only 4 inputs. I really wish it has 6 inputs as I would like to make/use an auto tool height plate.
With classic physical switches, I could wire them in parallel and use less inputs. I have read that that is not the thing to do with proximity switches.. or you cant do that...I have not figured out which one it is.
Also, some say it's best to use a separate power supply for the switches. The G540 has 10VDC out on Pin 9. Could I just use that?
I went ahead and ordered the XZero Y sensor mounting plate/cable chain holder so I may just get the X working and worry about the Y when it comes in.
My goal is to have the router's first cut done by Friday the 13th. :-)
My vote would be to get the machine secured to the table physically, then get it running without worrying about the prox switches at all until later. I have switches to install on mine, but have been running the machine quite nicely using only Mach3's virtual limits and might well never even bother with the physical switches.
After you get the machine up and going, you can add the prox switches to the mix with the knowledge that the machine works correctly.
Just my .02....
Dave
Dave,
Good advice.
Just hook up the E-Stop and let it go.
I'll sleep on it and see if I can let my self do that. Besides it's not like the thing is hard to take apart. I may just setup the x prox before I put the top on just to make it a little easier. Or may just throw caution to the wind. Thanks again.
Yeah, E-Stop is good to set up at first without a doubt! And go ahead and put the switches in to where you don't have to take anything apart later--just don't worry about getting everything working into the G540/Mach3 yet.
It's not really throwing caution to the wind I don't think. It's just building from the ground up and adding one new layer (and challenge) at a time. Doing it that way when you come up upon a problem, you know what it is that you changed last and it's easier to troubleshoot....
Dave
YES prox switches are always better done last,
XZero CNC
Posting Permissions
