Table for Xzero machine - your thoughts & ideas

[igor]

They are also called threat cutting screws. They have hex drive heads

[amasters]

Thread cutting

there are the following types;
Thread forming
Thread cutting
Self drilling

the following is taken from McMaster website.

Thread-forming screws have a blunt point and fine threads. They form mating threads in metal, plastic, and plywood by displacing material rather than cutting it. They form a defined number of threads per inch and require a drilled or punched hole.

Thread-cutting screws cut machine screw threads and eject the chips as they're turned. They have a round shank, tapered entering threads, and a notched end with a blunt tip. Use them in metal, plastic, and plywood. They require a drilled or punched hole.

Self-drilling screws drill their own hole, tap a thread, and fasten material in a single operation. Excellent for use in sheet metal. Install them with a power driver.


McMaster.com has a huge selection of countless types in inch and metric.
McMaster-Carr

[igor]

The thread cutting screws I have been using I have been getting at Home Dept. Thses have a hex head and chisle/flat cutting tip. I use a cordless impact driver and it goes through 16g tube with ease. I use #8 for table tops and shelves. Beats the hell out of drilling and tapping holes.

[xsnrg]

Just thought I would share some pictures of my Raptor32 stand. This thing is as solid as a tank.

[amasters]

Nice looking table!

I ordered mine from George as well, minus the long pieces. Can't wait for the parts to get here. I will be getting 3/16" wall thickness tubes and paint them to match.

Couple of questions;
How much did you oversize it compared to the Raptor dimensions?
What are those feet/casters? They look nice where did you get them?
What thickness ply did you use?

[xsnrg]

Nice looking table!

I ordered mine from George as well, minus the long pieces. Can't wait for the parts to get here. I will be getting 3/16" wall thickness tubes and paint them to match.

Couple of questions;
How much did you oversize it compared to the Raptor dimensions?
What are those feet/casters? They look nice where did you get them?
What thickness ply did you use?

Can’t remember the measurements off hand, but I think the plywood I cut was around 40x58 in. There was no modification to Georges stand, just assembled then cut plywood to fit.

They are leveling casters. They have a foot that screws down to rest on the floor. I bought my castes from woodcraft, but I had to modify them as the bolt holes were to close to the tube size. George makes an insert that goes inside the leg tube that has a plate to bolt the caster to. He recommends this 25P80F 2.5 Leveling Casters| 1322 Pounds in Load Capacity

I used 3/4 inch plywood and carriage bolts

[miljnor]

What you're missing is that you have to look at the whole system from tool tip to earth. Everything is related.

Didn't miss it, as I covered it in a simpler explanation. Impedance isn't something most people understand.

I didn't miss anything, I was simply stating that there are two problems that while interrelated are dealt with in different ways.

If I push on a beam it will bend to a certain degree, thus flexing, not vibrating. Just bending and letting go of it will let it flex back. That's one system.

If you hit something with a hammer it will ring like a bell (barring any sort of damping).

Sand inside the legs is great for one, but useless for the other. Concrete can help with both but has a certain frequency that its best at while if it bends over a certain point becomes useless for rigidity.

If you don't deal with both you will probably solve neither, because both will cause issues. Although for a hobby machine rigidity is probably the more important.

[afnid]

I just finished up my control box wiring and getting my sensors mounted.

Hope to submit the quote for the steel table tomorrow .. so need any feedback quick!

40x60 RaptorX

All 2" 14 gauge square tubing with 3/16 1.5x2.5 angle iron for the ends. Top will be at the same height as my table saw and other benches. My brother is going to weld it up for me and then I will likely have it powder coated.

Mounting a set of the same leveling casters.

Didn't want anywhere to set things around the sides and wanted the bottom to be accessible.

I am moving the track under the table and centering the control box which will be mounted with rubber vibration isolators. Trying to keep the wiring mess away from the operating side.

Going to set the computer on the wood bottom instead of hard-mounting it. Considered rack-mount, but again didn't like it hard-mounted. Want to add a monitor arm something like:

Build Log: RMGVideos XZero Raptor Build

But haven't decided where to position it yet. I want something a little more ergonomic for the wireless keyboard/mouse, so sans shelf. Could mount it with one of these to isolate vibrations from the lcd:

Bushings

and something like the top half of this:

Amazon.com: 3 Way Adjustable Tilting Desk Mount Bracket for LCD(Max 33Lbs, 10~25inch)- Black: Electronics

Had also considered something for the dust collection hose, maybe just a bracket to keep it stable going over the gantry, but can be dealt with later.

Will add some rivet nuts to mount a smart strip and a superpid.

Can't think of anything else.. yet..

edit: attachment must have timed out..

[BanduraMaker]

.
I didn't miss anything, I was simply stating that there are two problems that while interrelated are dealt with in different ways.

Judging from your response, I still think you're missing it. Re read Dave and my post a couple times and do some reading up on vibration and damping.

[BanduraMaker]

If I push on a beam it will bend to a certain degree, thus flexing, not vibrating. Just bending and letting go of it will let it flex back. That's one system.

If you hit something with a hammer it will ring like a bell (barring any sort of damping).

Let me elaborate a bit. The two things you're describing above are actually the same thing, not different things.

Imagine this for a minute. Let's say you have a beam in your hand and smack it with your hammer.

Will it be displaced? Yes, a lot- because your hand isn't strong enough to hold it.

Will it deform? A little but mostly not because your hand isn't that rigid. it will probably also be all elastic deformation meaning it will return to its original shape.

Will it ring? A little but not long because your hand is damping the vibration.

now take that beam and sink it into concrete and smack it....

Will it be displaced? Yes but not nearly as much as in your hand.

Will it deform? yes, possibly even plastic deformation if you hit it hard enough- something almost impossible in example one.

Will it ring - yes, probably a lot.

Now this is a simple example but just to get you thinking about the relationships going on here.

[miljnor]

edit: probably not good to sidetrack this thread though. so deleted for that reason

[BanduraMaker]

edit: probably not good to sidetrack this thread though. so deleted for that reason

Start another thread, this is worth discussing. Put it in the main woodworking section so that there's more eyes and ideas on it.