4-axis unipolar kit

[itsme]

Thanks for those pictures, George. I ordered a 4 axis kit last night, so now I'm just waiting for the post. Can I assemble it with 'normal' electrical solder from the local hardware shop?

I'd also like to know what everyone uses for the case to enclose their boards. Is it easiest to bend one out of some aluminium sheet, or use a container that is already available? George, is that fan a 5V fan that runs off the board's supply?

The enable switches sound like a good idea. I'm guessing that these could prevent back EMF from damaging the board when (if) the machine is being used by hand??? If my guess is correct, then I think I might just do the same when the time comes.

Lastly, on the back of your case, I see that you've connected the stepper outputs to some sort of plug. Are these just standard sockets that are available from most electronics places? They also seem like a good idea...

Thanks
Warren

[Hawkeye]

itsme,
1: Watch out on the solder, if you get it from a hardware store, make sure it's electrical solder. I jnow this sounds stupid, but they do carry solder for plumming which dosen't have a flux core and is different in compisition (Tin percentage mainly).

2. For the case, I got this one on clearence at radio shack for $7.00, it was normally $12.00. so either way it won't set you back to much. The enclosure comes with a plastic and a metal bottom (or top depending on how you mount it) and had plastic lugs to mount a board. I took the metal bottom, cut it to size to fit the lugs and then mounted my Xylotex board to it using regular computer stand-offs.

3. I haven't got a clue about the back-EMF, but the axis switches are handy.

4. I used regular DB-9 conectors for my Controller and Cables. you'll end up with a couple extra pins but they work fine. I mounted all of the axis plugs vertical and the one horizontal plug is for my Home, Limit and E-Stop switch. I also custom made my cables with the DB-9 conectors on one end and the plugs that fits my Powermax II stepper motors on the other end.

As an after thought, I would probably have made a Junction Box mounted to the actual machine as an "In-between" conection. If I had done this I could have ran the Limit/Home switch lines on the extra pins that were available on the DB-9 conectors (Also keeping Axis integity), Plus if you ever moved the machine, all you would have to do is un-plug the connectors at the junction box and at the computer and be able to move both without any wires getting in the way.

Hope This Helps,
George

[brickman]

Hawkeye,

What gauge wire can you use with your DB-9 Connectors? Are all DB-9 connectors rated for the same current?

Thanks,
Brickman

[Hawkeye]

brickman,
I haven't got a clue. I used some heavy duty LAN wire. it had 4 sets of shielded pairs and was solid wired. I'm sure there is someone here that knows though.

George

[xylotex]

Hi,
Solid wire is not especially a good choice for wiring up stepper motors. After a number of back and forth bending motions, it can break. The unipolar driver chip has internal diodes that will withstand over 100V, so you may not suffer the "blow-up" problems that the bipolar chip faces (the high voltage create by disconnecting the motor while running, goes through these diodes), but things wont work right if one of the condutors breaks.

Jeff

[Hawkeye]

That depends on if you are using a moving gantry or moving table machine. On a moving gantry, I agree. If you are building a moving table type machine, the wires shouldn't be moving on any of the axis.

George

[ger21]

Your router still moves side to side and up and down, doesn't it?