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Yes as a matter of fact I do appreciate this thread! Re the resistors, according to the g540 manual it seems that you multiply the amps of the motor by 1000 to get the resistor value. I think that we have the same steppers so the small ones are 3.5 amps when wired parallel thus 3.5 K ohms for those. The large z stepper I believe is 6.1 amps? Thus 6.1K ohms +/- 5%. I need to check my notes on the amps.
It says that you don't need resistors for any stepper 3.5 ohms or larger but then the stepper won't hold and will heat up.... So figured that it's simple enough to install them.
It took me a bit to figure out the wiring from the ac wall to the switch to the power source. I will install a fuse or breaker on the ac line in.
The emergency switch works by normally being closed and then stops the g540 when pushed in opening the circuit.
I like that they put the charge on off switch on the outside so you can test your electrical power and emeergency switch without hooking up the motors.
Now.... What did you all do with green ground from the ac input? Did you just attach them to the chassis (outer box)?
Lastly, the only shielded 4 conductor cable I could find around here was 18 ga. A little heavy and stiffer than the 20ga recommended but..... It's local.
Scuba, your stuff looks good. Good luck with your surgery.
Thanks again for the thread and the great postings
Steven aka the other steve...
Originally Posted by Scuba Steve
I bought the pre assembled box (silly since during assy I pulled every single component out and out back in at some point) when I changed to the unregulated psu it piggies to me that they hadn't wired a ground at all. SCARY. so I wired the ground to the base of my psu as the bolt went into the box grounding the box at least.
YOUR GETTING CLOSE! its weird that I'M exited. lol
What happened when I tested out the g540 without the motors connected was just as you noticed, when I cut the ac it took about 30 or 40 seconds for the capacitors and the core to discharge.
But when I hit the e stop the g540 immediately went onto fault (the little red fault light went on). So I assume that the steppers would immediately stop. But the ac and dc would still be hot.
This leads me to another thought for the sx3. Since the spindle is not under 540 control I think it might be good to patch a connection to the estop on the mill spindle itself. So you don't have to hit estops when you might be in "panic" mode?
Last edited by Stevenh111; 01-13-2012 at 02:13 PM.
looks like i will be wanting to speed up from the 1800 rpm that it comes with. Any ideas on what i need to be looking for. Are there threads around that will heip? i havent seen any go619's doing it yet.
thanks
SCUBA
Last edited by Scuba Steve; 01-17-2012 at 09:35 AM.
I personally would just order a pulley from SDP/Si or other supplier with the same tooth count as the one on the spindle so you have a 1-1 ratio
will give you 3600RPM +/- at the tool. You will lose torque at lower speeds with this set-up but the gains in material removal rate in aluminum will probably outway the torque loss
Some use the motor gear from the X4 to accomplish the same thing but sourcing may be an issue.
If you have access to a lathe and cant find it in the exact shaft size you can get one with a smaller bore and machine it out or make a reducer bushing if the bore is too large.
JTCUSTOMS
"It is only when they go wrong that machines remind you how powerful they are."
Clive James
3600 RPM is a good move, if you use small drills.
Smaller drills need the speed. 200-3600.
Will run a 8mm tap in steel, manually.
100-1800RPM standard:
Higher torque and lower minimum speed.
Larger drills above 10mm usually run below 1800
Will run a 12mm tap in steel, manually.
Is it permanent?
To swap pulleys on a day to day basis is not practical.
You can still swap them back if have a big job, and an hour to waste, and can get the pulley off the motor with a puller.
Super X3. 3600rpm. Sheridan 6"x24" Lathe + more. Three ways to fix things: The right way, the other way, and maybe your way, which is possibly a faster wrong way.
Trying to get back starting on this rig. Back to good health so I tore up my ball screw nut. Over ran it due to not having limits. Can someone tell me what I need to order? I bought the delux kit from Cnc fusion and the Y is the one that shot its balls all over the place. 8 see the one for 33 bucks but does not specify if it's the one I need or not.
Thanks
Steve
had a spendle bearing to go out it was thr tapered one at the bottum. been reading but cant find them in stock anywhere not to mention the kluber grease. Can anyone help with a location preferrable on the east coast. cant figure out why this happened either. just been playin in some lexan and alluminum. nothing harsh. any ideas.
scube
One word, two syllables and sounds just like "CHAI KNEES"
Here is a link for the kluber nbu 15
I will try and dig up some info on the upgraded bearings, but all the numbers are in a thread here.........somewhere........
JTCUSTOMS
"It is only when they go wrong that machines remind you how powerful they are."
Clive James
I understand. Just what I could afford. Hope to put all the American in it as possible. Done got a lot of American mula in it so gotta keep going. I found some info but not any good suppliers. I found the sealed ball bearing at the local parts store in national but the thrust and cone are not so easy. I think I will start a thread of just the go619 upgrades
Bottom bearing locked up. Had no lubrication at all. I broke in the spindle just as instructed. Any ideas on how to do so when I get it back together with the kluber.
Thanks cornbinder
Got all my bearings and Kluber grease will be here today. Any tips or tricks that I may need to know about before I start??
Got Bobcad installed last nite and starting to itch!!
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