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It's called an expanding arbor. Like these
Tiger
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What is holding the wheel in this pic? http://www.cncbotparts.com/part_imag...ing_colson.jpg I think that screw in the center gets tightened and then the aluminum pieces press outward. Is there anything like this I can buy? What is it called? Or something I can make with only a lathe? I need to hold a 5" wheel like that in a 4" chuck but I need the outside face of it exposed just like the picture.
It's called an expanding arbor. Like these
Tiger
Looks like it's just a simple stub axel and they're clamping it where the bearings are located. I doubt it's a split taper or expanding arbor.
It's on a homemade aluminum split. You can see the cut plainly clear across the exposed face.
Tiger
Yeah, looks like it's set up to machine the bearing bores. The tire has 6 X 2 molded into it, so it's too small for what i originally thought.
I think an expanding arbor is what I was looking for/ thinking of, however my wheel is a bit of an odd size though: 29/32 bore. But, I forgot that I might be able to just hold it in the chuck by putting the jaws inside the bore and then opening the chuck to hold it from the inside. I'll have to try it. Boy I love my new HF 8x12
Be very careful gripping with chuck support only in that manner. It can let go. The little gripping length of the jaw may not hold it stable enough to take much vibration let alone a cutting load. If it brakes free, I'd hope you can play dodge wheel!Originally Posted by sanddrag
You should be able to turn a mandrel/spud/shank/mount, whatever they all work the same......only different. All it takes is some round stock a bit larger than the bore you intend to hold.
Turn it to the diameter of the bore +.01 to a length sufficient for the task. If this is to be an expanding type, it is a good idea to cut a groove at the shoulder where the diameter was reduced. This helps it flex/expand easier.
You can drill and tap the exposed end for a bolt and counter sink the end so that a flat head cap screw can spread it open when tightened. Now remove it from the lathe and band saw the length of the turned section up to the groove. Rotate the mandrel 90deg and cut through the length of the turned section again so that the mandrel has 4 pie sections to the length of the turned spud end.
You may need to clean the threads up a bit after sawing, but the flat head screw should do that too.
Place it back in the lathe chuck. Put some pressure on the screw to expand the mandrel just enough to be noticeable. Turn the spud end to the actual diameter of the bore, enough to get the bore to go on with maybe .001 clearnace? Not only does this bring it to actual size, but it trues it to the spindle center for minimizing runout. Once you remove it from the chuck, slim bets are that it will return to that exact same position. You must be the judge of how close is close enough.
It should be ready for work!
For less work or an operation that does not require access to the bore it is gripped by. You could just turn the shaft to the bore diameter, drill and tap the end to hold the works with a washer to the mandrel. Or go the really lazy way and use the washer as a pusher puck with the live center in the tail stock.
Of course you could also use the live center in the tailstock to expand the mandrel drectly and skip the drill and tap operations
.......then again you could use the live center in the tail stock with a pusher puck to support the bore on the chuck jaws IF they really turn on true center close enough for the task and say the heck with all the above!
It's all good! But safer is always gooder!
DC
Learn cause and effect through experience. Mastering those relationships is the "Common Sense" ability within the art of any trade.
It looks like the I.D. has been bored to size, then placed on a mandrel to do the O.D.
On the other hand, You have different fingers.
unfortunately it is just a bit too small to fit over the jaws. I've thought of something that's maybe just a press fit. Kind of a pain to put in and take out though. Maybe I'll try making the expanding thing. I'm concerned about getting wobble from it but I'd have to give it a try. Thanks for the suggestions.
What kind of operation are you trying to do to the wheel?
DC
Learn cause and effect through experience. Mastering those relationships is the "Common Sense" ability within the art of any trade.
Hi,
I have made arbors like this by tapping the hole with the appropriate size PIPE tap. After splitting the end and running in the pipe plug you will get an even,
high force expansion.
ErnieD
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