Sword Stick

[ImanCarrot]

I plan to make a sword stick, but I have a couple of questions about wood working (never done it before) so if anyone can help I'd be most gratefull.

I'm getting a couple of swords which I think are rapiers (not sure till I collect them today).

I plan to split the handles and remove them then remove the hand guards. I then plan to hammer the tang flat (the bit at the end of the handle).

I'll then get two solid wooden walking sticks and cut a handle sized bit off the end of them.

Now here's the problem... how to get the hole down the middle of the sticks. The sword blades are about 3/8" at the thickest 3' long (not inc handle) and about 1/2" wide.

I had planned on splitting the sticks. Immagine splitting them straight down the middle then milling a slot right down each half length using a 3/8" end mill and going 1/4" deep on each half.

Obviously the two halves would then be glued together and the sword would fit into the slot.

Has anyone else tried this please? or has anyone got a better way to go about this?

Many thanks in advance.

Iain

[Geof]

It sounds like you have it correct. Two walking sticks so you can get one grooved half from each to get a full circle after glueing? Use a ball nose mill for the groove so you leave a bit more material for strength and do not create a sharp corner.

HIH are you going to fixture the halves of the stick for machining?

What are you going to do if the sticks warp after cutting?

You will make sure you offset the initial cut on the sticks the opposite way so you make enantiomers?

[One of Many]

A couple options I can think of.

Cut a 3/8" slot through one side and cap it off with a 3/8" glued block that will gain you a 3/8x1/2" core opening. Using a differrent wood can give a nice contrasting lamination.

Otherwise, drill through the wood and use a coping saw or weld in a band saw to finish the rectangular core. I doubt the length of the handle will take well to broaching like a mortising bit would work.

DC

[ImanCarrot]

Two stick so I can get a ful circle, yep.. that's my thoughts. Unless I can split the wood lengthwise, either by hammering a sharp blade down it's length or by hammering lots of them hand razor blades down the side wall, but I'm certain that I'd never get a straight split cos of the wood grain?

I plan to fixture it directly on to my mill table on the T slots which are true to my X travel. The walking sticks will, no doubt, be tapered so I was planning to use different height v- blocks along its length then thought "hang on.. the blade tapers anyway" so might not be a problem just clamping it to the T- Slots. I might need to hand finish the slot in the wood.

Ball nose mill is a good idea, thanks mate.. didn't think of that. Was gonna use an end mill. I'll end mill it out then ball nose it- more strength as you say.

If it warps? hmm... hadn't thought of that. Initial thoughts are putting the two halves together with the blade inside, using padded jubilee clips to clamp them together (without glue) and steaming the lot for two hours. Obviously would need to remove the varnish from the original walking stick halves. I could use a plastic drain pipe for a container connected to a kettle or something.

Is there any wood that doesn't warp a lot?

Or.. perhaps I could just mill a slot down the length of one whole stick. Put the sword in (greased), fill the slot with that putty stuff that sets like concrete, remove the blade and get a french polisher to add the wood effect on the filled slot.

Can't wait to pick em up.. getting them in two hours.

[ImanCarrot]

Cut a 3/8" slot through one side and cap it off with a 3/8" glued block that will gain you a 3/8x1/2" core opening. Using a differrent wood can give a nice contrasting lamination

That is a better idea than my concrete putty stuff. I like the idea of a different wood for contrast. I could have this strip, say, a lighter colour with calipgraphy running up it.

[Geof]

Originally Posted by One of Many ......Cut a 3/8" slot through one side and cap it off with a 3/8" glued block that will gain you a 3/8x1/2" core opening. Using a differrent wood can give a nice contrasting lamination.......

Much nicer.

Maybe less work also.

For fixturing make a shallow wooden trough secured to the mill table.

Support the walking stick in this with a few little wooden blocks.

Pour a high melting point paraffin wax around the stick to cast it in place.

Do your machining.

Melt the wax away with a hot air gun.

[greybeard]

Old Bill is having a problem with today's yoof carrying blades
What he'll make of sword sticks I shudder to think.

Do you need to start with walking sticks ?
I'd prefer a nice black, silver topped cane, so I'd go the fishing rod route, ie split cane. Or even bored out bamboo, not much material to remove.

John

[ImanCarrot]

Yeah, they're illegal in the UK cos it's a concealed weapon. I just fancy making one for the hell of it.

You are allowed to walk around with one if it's an antique though (>100 years old).

I fancy solid wood instead of cane- I did think of it though.

Still waiting on dellivery of the swords

[greybeard]

If you turned it out of some of your lens material, it wouldn't be "concealed".

John