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Hard to understand what you mean? But usually the fence has angles for blade clearance when cutting a miter "on the flat", or a compound miter.Originally Posted by Plugger
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Hi,
This might be a dumb question...
Someone gave me a Makita chop saw LS1030. The fence is a one-piece. I'd be fine with that, but it has a v-shape to it. So, I can only adjust the fence to cut square long pieces or square short pieces. I cannot cut both without moving the fence or adjusting the angle.
I plan to take the fence out and cut the middle section of the fence out. I'll then have a two piece fence where I can set them both in a straight line and square to the blade.
What's the v-shape for???
Thanks!
Hard to understand what you mean? But usually the fence has angles for blade clearance when cutting a miter "on the flat", or a compound miter.
Here are some TOP VIEW sketches.
This how I would set it up for cutting a long piece of wood. Note the gap between the wood and the fence since the fence is v-shaped. The u-shaped part of the fence goes behind the blade and is not cut. Then, when I use the same setup to cut a short block of wood the end will have an angle on it. Why do they put a v-shape on the fence? It's not bent. It's a casting in perfect condition.
Thanks!
No that's a defect in the casting. They supposedly mill the face flat but I don't know why that happens. I 've used an auxiliary fence that's screwed on using the holes on the aluminum fence. Place a straight board long enough and screw it in using the holes Omost fences do). Use shims if there are gaps. Get the blade adjusted for a sqiare cut, and cut through the wood.
If we just need to crosscut, we would actually make an auxiliary table, L-shaped, to sit on top of the chopsaw table. Just have to make sure you don't go through, or if it a sliding compound saw, set the depth so it doesn't cut through.
If your fence really is bent like that there is something not right. Can you take a picture?
If your board does not touch in the center it will be dangerous to cut as it will want to grab the blade. No cuts made on that fence will be square.
Something does not sound right.
Yes the blade will be pinched by the wood as it's being cut...
Simple solution IMO is to remove the fence and make a pair of hardwood cheeks fitted with c/s bolts with nylock nuts and double coil washers. Then shoot the face flat and square with a shooting plane either machine or hand. Refit an check the new wooden fence face is both square (upright) to the table and the surfaces are perfectly in line. I have a Makita and it also has the fence faces 'v' shaped as in your sketch. This is a tad easier to do than the tip from louieatenza
I use mine for cutting ex skip floor-boards for fire wood! Not precision work but it would bind on the blade if used without the cheeks.
Regards - Pat
It’s not that uncommon to be that way or for that to happen. I have 2 Bosh chop saws with the same problem. An auxiliary table with shims as posted before is a good fix.
Thanks everyone!
I see that I am not the only one having this problem.
Since the condition of the fence looks perfect, I originally thought it might be made that way for some trade-specific job.
Maybe they didn't stress releive the metal or something, and over time, it "warped". I don't really know.
In any case, I will either cut it into two or make my own one piece. It does seem easiest for me to just cut it into two with a hack saw and touch the end to a grinder to smooth it.
Thanks again for the good ideas and feedback!
ps - No pictures.... I don't have a camera right now. Sorry!
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