How about a drill bit?![]()
I'm making cribbage boards - some have nearly 500 1/8" holes.
I've had good luck with 1/8" spiral up-cut round-nosed 2-flute carbide bits cutting into pine, oak and maple.
As a bonus, I sometimes use them to carve out decoration too.
They are slowly getting dull and I'm wondering if anyone would recommend a different/better way of doing this?
I can't really complain at all - I've drilled maybe 50,000 holes with two bits so far - just exploring alternatives.
Thanks
David
How about a drill bit?![]()
Gerry
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Yeah - tried a couple of those - maybe I need to explore more but they didn't seem to do so good a job - they had more flex and wandering in the harder woods. One I tried snapped...
But then I just grabbed what I had lying around the shop...
And you can't really use them to carve with - but a bit change wouldn't be too much of a hassle.
Maybe if I got a tougher, shorter better quality drill bit more suitable for router CNC drilling.
Any suggestions?
How deep are you drilling the holes? A stub length bit would be more rigid and a solid carbide bit would be even more so. A good place to start may be a good quality stub length cobalt drill bit.
Matt
Also, how slow can you spin them?
Gerry
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
I use a 1617EVSPK Bosch, 8-25k rpm, which I run at about half way, probably 15k, 8 would be the slowest.
I usually drill to 0.5", sometimes to 0.75". Tapered pegs that bottom out don't hold very securely.
How would a stub-length carbide drill bit differ from the currently used stub-length carbide round nosed bit?
Currently, there is a tiny rim around the finished holes straight off the machine, but a single finishing pass with an orbital sander with 220 grit paper leaves very clean holes.
I may have it just perfect with the current bits, but if it is, it is by random luck rather than experience. Thanks for the input so far.
In wood, there probably isn't a big difference between a drill and an endmill/router bit but a drill is designed to drill, while an endmill is made to cut. Differences may include increased clearance on the drill for faster feeds as well as a faster helix to help eject chips from the hole, which will keep the bit cooler and make it last longer.
Matt
Thanks Matt - that's a good point. I'm thinking of buying a couple of carbide stub-drills and seeing what difference they make.
I cut 1/8" holes in cribbage boards made from maple, bubinga, purple heart, cherry and many other types of woods. I use a 1/8" boring bit from Amana. I run the spindle at 2500 rpm. I use a plunge speed of .75 ips and the holes turn out perfect every time. Boring bits are a wonderful thing.
Don
http://www.dlwoodworks.com