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Thread: Drilling thousands of holes - recommendations needed!

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    Drilling thousands of holes - recommendations needed!

    I'm making cribbage boards - some have nearly 500 1/8" holes.

    I've had good luck with 1/8" spiral up-cut round-nosed 2-flute carbide bits cutting into pine, oak and maple.

    As a bonus, I sometimes use them to carve out decoration too.

    They are slowly getting dull and I'm wondering if anyone would recommend a different/better way of doing this?

    I can't really complain at all - I've drilled maybe 50,000 holes with two bits so far - just exploring alternatives.

    Thanks

    David


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    Community Moderator ger21's Avatar
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    How about a drill bit?
    Gerry

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


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    Yeah - tried a couple of those - maybe I need to explore more but they didn't seem to do so good a job - they had more flex and wandering in the harder woods. One I tried snapped...
    But then I just grabbed what I had lying around the shop...

    And you can't really use them to carve with - but a bit change wouldn't be too much of a hassle.

    Maybe if I got a tougher, shorter better quality drill bit more suitable for router CNC drilling.

    Any suggestions?


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    How deep are you drilling the holes? A stub length bit would be more rigid and a solid carbide bit would be even more so. A good place to start may be a good quality stub length cobalt drill bit.

    Matt


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    Community Moderator ger21's Avatar
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    Also, how slow can you spin them?
    Gerry

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


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    I use a 1617EVSPK Bosch, 8-25k rpm, which I run at about half way, probably 15k, 8 would be the slowest.

    I usually drill to 0.5", sometimes to 0.75". Tapered pegs that bottom out don't hold very securely.

    How would a stub-length carbide drill bit differ from the currently used stub-length carbide round nosed bit?

    Currently, there is a tiny rim around the finished holes straight off the machine, but a single finishing pass with an orbital sander with 220 grit paper leaves very clean holes.

    I may have it just perfect with the current bits, but if it is, it is by random luck rather than experience. Thanks for the input so far.


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    In wood, there probably isn't a big difference between a drill and an endmill/router bit but a drill is designed to drill, while an endmill is made to cut. Differences may include increased clearance on the drill for faster feeds as well as a faster helix to help eject chips from the hole, which will keep the bit cooler and make it last longer.

    Matt


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    Thanks Matt - that's a good point. I'm thinking of buying a couple of carbide stub-drills and seeing what difference they make.


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    I cut 1/8" holes in cribbage boards made from maple, bubinga, purple heart, cherry and many other types of woods. I use a 1/8" boring bit from Amana. I run the spindle at 2500 rpm. I use a plunge speed of .75 ips and the holes turn out perfect every time. Boring bits are a wonderful thing.
    Don
    http://www.dlwoodworks.com


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