painting vcarvings...

[davidmb]

Looking good Arbo, I have just got my hands on some atomised brass and copper powder, the intention is to mix it with polyester resin, fill a design, sand back and polish, I have seen some examples that look like metal inlay.

Myozman, if the wood is sealed before carving, does the paint not wick up the end grain of the wood? although I guess it will depend a lot on the viscosity of the paint and the type of wood used.

[Arbo]

David, the reason I sealed mine with three coats of varnish first was so the paint did not wick into the wood. I tried one with two coats and still had a bit of wicking, so three was the answer for my project in pine. Of course it will be different as you say, for other woods.

[myozman]

Most of the ones I've done have been in red and white oak. I use a fast dry rustoleum or Black lacquer. Drys really quick. As soon as I spray, I start wiping it off away.

[davidmb]

Arbo, is it really varnish that you are using to seal the wood, I have been using celulose sanding sealer, a coat dries in a couple of minutes that you can sand but you need good ventilation as the fumes are quite bad, sanding sealer tends to be cheaper than varnish, keep the good stuff for the final coat, if you have a lot to do this can speed up the production quite a bit.

[mlk1950]

Has anyone ever tried applying stencil paper to the wood before carving? I thought read somewhere about someone who used this technique. I would think you would still have the bleed problem, so you would to seal the letters after you carved them before spraying.

Thanks Mike

[louieatienza]

When I was doing all this stuff by hand, I would seal everything with a couple coats of shellac first before painting the carvings. Reason being, shellac is generally compatible with all types of finishes when used as a sealer coat. If you use varnish, you're kind of tied into that for the top coats, which may not be a bad thing depending where the sign will be.

Since most of what I do is for indoor use, I use shellac because it dries very fast being alcohol based. After a few coats, I spray lacquer over everything. The first coats have to be very thin to avoid bleed through, and the lacquer dries lightning fast. After 5-6 light coats, I sand the surface off, dust with an air nozzle, and finish the entire piece with lacquer.

You could also use a waterborne polyurethane to finish the whole piece, and fill the letterings etc. with an artist brush and latex paint, using a rag to wipe excess off the surface, though this is time-sonsuming...

[mlk1950]

I do not know if you have access to one or not but, I use a 24" dual drum sander.

I cut the lettering/carving about a 1/16 deeper than it needs to be, then paint the lettering/carving as desired.

Once dry I run it through the sander removing the paint that was on the surface.

I then use a dry rolling method to apply a different color to the face, or I just clear coat the entire thing if that is what the project requires.

When you say dry rolling method, do you use a very short nap roller with most of the paint rolled out before you apply?

Thanks Mike

[zool]

Use masking film.

Paint/varnish the uncut sign.

Let dry.

Apply masking film over the whole sign.

Cut sign.

Only the cut areas [lettering and designs] will be left raw; the rest of the sign will still be covered with film.

Paint cut areas.

Let paint set.

Pull masking BEFORE paint in cut areas [lettering and designs] dries all the way.

Spray varnish over whole sign if required.

WAY simpler than hoping for no bleed through with varnish, shellac, lacquer.

And yes can be expensive, but what is your time worth?

[mlk1950]

Use masking film.

Paint/varnish the uncut sign.

Let dry.

Apply masking film over the whole sign.

Cut sign.

Only the cut areas [lettering and designs] will be left raw; the rest of the sign will still be covered with film.

Paint cut areas.

Let paint set.

Pull masking BEFORE paint in cut areas [lettering and designs] dries all the way.

Spray varnish over whole sign if required.

WAY simpler than hoping for no bleed through with varnish, shellac, lacquer.

And yes can be expensive, but what is your time worth?

Sounds like the slickest way to do it for sure! As for my time, considering what it cost in time and money to build the machine. How much research it took just to get where I am now. The cost of the Mach and VCarve pro ( which are very reasonable) for what was involved in the development of those two fine softwares. I would say about $50.00 to $80.00 per hour.
The average person really has no clue how much is involved in the whole process. I now I didn't when I started, but now that I have done it like all of you have, I'd do all over again in a heart beat. Building one of these machines and the thrill of actually seeing it create something for the first time was priceless!

[Arbo]

zool, what sort of masking film? Or more specifically, what is masking film?

[louieatienza]

I wonder if regular transfer tape would do? It's the stuff that vinyl guys use to transfer cut vinyl letters and graphics to whatever object they apply it to. Worked for a sign company for 4 years, never though about using it to mask paint.

Also paint will wick the most in the end grain. I've been very successful using shellac, though it might have to be brushed into the letters to get the end grain sealed. You could also try making sizing out of watered down glue as well.

Using shellac givevs you more options on a finish coat since its considered a universal sealer. If you use varnish, you're stuck with varnish, and it doesn't cut into itself, so successive layers just sit on top of each other. Not the easiest finish to level off, and you'll leave witness lines if you sand through the first coat.

[zool]

ARBO:

Watch this youtube video, its about using masking film with air brushing, but you'll get the idea.
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAjt4ILkMTY&feature=related"]YouTube - Clear masking Films[/nomedia]

Here is a link to Gerber Scientific. They seem to have some of the best sign making materials, they never fail. Same kind of quality as 3M products.

Vinyls and Films - Gerber Scientific Products - Sign Making Supplies, Foils, Materials & Accessories

LOUIE:

Masking film is a bit heavier than the transfer film. Also, if my memory is not completely fogged, the adhesive on masking film is much more "sticky" as: 1. don't have to worry about pulling the vinyl letters off; and, 2. it has to seal better to keep paint out.

You are absolutely correct about shellac. If ever there was a goof proof sealer/finishing product shellac is it. Its been around since the Pharaohs [as has hide glue] so it has stood the test of time. I like it as the solvent is isopropyl alcohol about as harmless substance as there is.