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  1. #61

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    Thanks for the kind words!

    Last night I setup the base on my 24"x36" surface plate, which is perfectly level. Then I used my 12" Starrett machine level to set the base plate level. There appears to be a problem with the bore in the center of the base plate, as the Bull's-Eye level was way off!

    After I removed the little level from the plate, I placed it in the center of the base plate and now the Bulls-Eye level is dead center! The bore is too tight, and it's forcing the level off to one direction, All I can say is my head must of been out of tram

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Newton's Cradle-100_4826-jpg   Newton's Cradle-100_4827-jpg  


  2. #62

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    Today I worked on the fixture for milling the large radius around the bearing holes in the pivot forks. This required my tilting the mill's head to 41.8 deg. Then I milled a block 7.625" long on both sides. After re-tramming the head, and setting up the fixture in a vise. I found out I had an error in the angle! Apparently, I had the complement of the angle! Thats 41.8 deg instead of 48.2 deg.! A bit difficult to detect in my little shop, so I had to file in a small amount of the fillet radius where it intersects with the existing surfaces. No Biggie, but if I plan on using it again, I need to repair the fixture!

    Tomorrow I'll mill the last radius on the outside of the small fork, then these are ready for plating!

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Newton's Cradle-100_2728-jpg   Newton's Cradle-100_2729-jpg   Newton's Cradle-100_2730-jpg   Newton's Cradle-100_2727-jpg  

    Newton's Cradle-100_2726-jpg  


  3. #63
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    Not a problem widget!

    here's a suggestion, re-bore the base plate centre hole over size. Make a decorative brass "plug" to press fit into the over sized centre hole, then bore this brass plug to fit the bubble level. I'll look like you meant it to be that way!



  4. #64
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    and remember guys.....

    hes doing all those nice looking parts WITHOUT CNC!!!

    it some times seems like some things are no big deal ,when all ya have to do is draw up a part in mastercam,tool path it, and press run .its good to see some one make something thats a work of art ..because you know how much WORK went into the art

    good looking art eric!!!

    "witty comment"


  5. #65
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    Each step of a project like this one can be 95% setup time and 5% cutting time. Setup is really tedious work that can lead to errors, and hand cutting in every conceivable direction can create many "oops!" situations. Eric is doing work here that deserves to go into a science museum. I am honored to be witnessing this work online each day.

    You rock WidgitMaster!

    CarveOne

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  6. #66
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    Default SUCH NICE WORK

    I think this is the reason he is called widgit"MASTER"

    Mike

    Warning: DIY CNC may cause extreme hair loss due to you pulling your hair out.


  7. #67

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    Wow!
    With all those "At-A-Boy's" I'm gonna need to be extra careful!
    Ya know, one Oh-S#IT will erase all them "At-A-Boy's"


    This morning I've been working on a way to drill those super hardened chrome steel balls! Because they are Chrome alloy steel, they are super hardened to the core to 62-67 Rockwell-C.

    I have been looking all over the world for a long straight-flute 1/4" solid carbide drill, but the cost is off the scale! The only one's available can only drill to a depth of 1"

    My solution is to make a precision steel fixture for the lathe, which will allow me to drill one hole 1/2" deep in all five balls. Then I can insert a precision fit pin in the bottom of the fixture to locate the existing hole on center. Then I can drill the 2nd hole in all five balls.

    But putting a pin in a blind hole through the aluminum fork, would be a one time deal! So I have decided to drill & tap the center of the pins straight through, that way I can install a setscrew to push the pin out if necessary. Also, a nice decorative button can be screwed into the hole to cover it up!

    The key feature to drilling the balls is to maintain close tolerance to the centerline, as any error will cause the balls to deflect, and loose all the energy from impact!

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Newton's Cradle-assembledballfixture-jpg   Newton's Cradle-bottomballfixture-jpg   Newton's Cradle-explodedballfixture-jpg   Newton's Cradle-topballfixture-jpg  



  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by widgitmaster View Post
    Wow!
    With all those "At-A-Boy's" I'm gonna need to be extra careful!
    Ya know, one Oh-S#IT will erase all them "At-A-Boy's"
    A true master knows (or figures out) how to hide those with something that looks like it was part of the original design. Even if it has to be a whole new part.

    CarveOne

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


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    I am a general machinist. I work on manual machines that are about 50 to 60 years old. and does it ever feel nice to hear people giving those kinds of props and compliments about parts being made without the use of CNC. Amazing work Widget Master.



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    hmme if heat the spot where you want to drill you dont have to heat the whole thing red hot then as the small spot turns to blue you will be able to drill it with a hss drill. I use this technic to drill qr20 plate chainsaw bars and Induction hardened chrome shaft. Honestly I dont know if it would work on Ball bearings. My boss says its called x10 material whatver that is lol.

    Last edited by Korellibopper; 10-17-2009 at 12:50 PM.


  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Korellibopper View Post
    hmme if heat the ball bearing red hot then as it turns to blue you will be able to drill it with a hss drill. I use this technic to droll qr20 plate chainsaw bars and Induction hardened chrome shaft. Honestly I dont know if it would work on Ball bearings. My boss says its called x10 material whatver that is lol.
    For this project, I think it's unlikely that he wants to change the hardness or the precise shape of the ball bearings due to the heat applied.

    CarveOne

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


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    yeah your right I'm wrong I do wonder though is the bearing through hardened?



  13. #73
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    Patience and perseverance have a magical effect before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish.


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    After I removed the little level from the plate, I placed it in the center of the base plate and now the Bulls-Eye level is dead center!
    Just a thought but...

    Is the bull's eye designed to be referenced on the top surface of the base? i.e. is the top square to the bottom?

    Re. drill problem:

    How about using a reduced shank PCB type carbide drill mounted (brazed?) into a extension rod? (with lots of pecking) ?

    BTW fantastic work Eric - as usual

    Bill


  15. #75

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    Actually the BE-Level is very precision made, as I measured no deviation in flange thickness. I just made the bore too tight, I have a good fix for it, and it will look like nothing was ever wrong!

    Today I finished up the four top buttons for the top of the Newton's Cradle, I put a nice 3/8 radius on them and polished them good!

    Then I made the fixture for the ro-tab, so that I could mill the external radius on the little fork end of the pivot arms. Then I made a big disk to clamp the parts to the fixture. With a 3/8" end mill, I quickly milled off the surplus material. Then I spent two hours deburring and polishing the swing arms.

    Now I have another nine parts ready for the plater Monday morning

    Tomorrow I'm going to sit on my butt and do nothing, so my arthritic fingers can relax and stop aching

    Widgit

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Newton's Cradle-100_4826-jpg   Newton's Cradle-100_4829-jpg   Newton's Cradle-100_4830-jpg   Newton's Cradle-100_4831-jpg  

    Newton's Cradle-100_4832-jpg   Newton's Cradle-100_4833-jpg   Newton's Cradle-100_4834-jpg   Newton's Cradle-100_4835-jpg  

    Newton's Cradle-100_4836-jpg   Newton's Cradle-100_4837-jpg  


  16. #76

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    Quote Originally Posted by jalessi View Post
    Thanks for the suggestion Jeff, but that type of carbide drill would never produce precision results. First, the amount of pressure required to cut the hardened chrome steel would twist the soft steel shank of that drill. then the heat would melt the soft brass solder holding the carbide to the drill shank. Lastly, the grade of carbide is not hard enough!

    I think I have solved that part of the puzzle, but 1st I need to build a fixture !

    Eric



  17. #77
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    Eric,

    I thought that company also sold specialty drills for drilling bearing races.

    Jeff...

    Patience and perseverance have a magical effect before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish.


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    Smile

    HI Eric,
    "On the seventh day he rested" (Well Deserved)
    I have been watching this thread with interest and am waiting to see in antisipation to see it work.
    Have you an estimate of how much of the raw material is now around the floor?
    I think you need a "boy scout" to do the clean up for you http://www.cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon7.gif

    Have you cut any metal on your CNC machine yet?
    It would have been very useful for doing the swing arm radaii that you had to make special jigs to do on your manual mill (just my thoughts)
    I have a similar mill but it has Prototrak MX3.(1994 ish) This provides basic shapes patterns etc that can be sized to suit the job in hand,
    It would have been a nice exercise to program in the swing arm shapes into it
    Anyway enough of my ranting on!!
    Best Wishes
    John O R



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    Eric:
    Pity it wasn't a few months ago. Our EDM dept. was kindda slow for work. I could have had some precise holes burned into those balls. Our fellows that run our "state of the shop" are very well versed in our EDM dept. Wish it it was earlier, I would have liked to contribute to this effort.



  20. #80

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    Quote Originally Posted by jalessi View Post
    Eric,

    I thought that company also sold specialty drills for drilling bearing races.

    Jeff...
    No Jeff, there is not one machinist bit on that page!
    I suspect it was just Keywords to bring their HTML to top listing!
    Eric



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