Home welder suggestions?

[bb99]

HI All,

After looking at the prices of aluminum extrusions, I've decided to build my CNC frame from steel square tubing. I've decided to teach myself welding so I can weld the frame (I'm sure I'll find other things around the house to weld too). I'd like a welder that will run off my homes power and is easy to use. I've been searching and it seems that MIG welders are popular. However, I'd like to stay away from MIGs since they require a tank of inert gas. I don't drive, so getting the tank refilled would be a pain. I guess I'm left with either a stick or wire feed welder. Which is easier to learn/use? What is a good brand/model for home use? I'm not planning on welding heavy gage metal, so I'm guessing 110 is good enough for me. Any and all experiences (good or bad) with home welders are welcome. Also, if you have any features that I should look for (or look out for) would be appreciated.

Thanks,
bb99

[CNCadmin]

You can only use a TIG welder on alum, a regular welder ac/dc can be used for steel. Correct me if I'm wrong, it's been a long time since I've welded anything.

[HuFlungDung]

MIG welders are wire feed. Wires are commonly available for steel, stainless, hard-surfacing. You can also get aluminum MIG wire, but you generally need a spool gun to pull feed the wire, rather than push feed it. Aluminum wire is notorious for sticking in the welding gun. You need an inert gas for aluminum MIG.

There are small models you can buy for 110v operation. You can also use a flux-core wire (for steel) in them, so that you can scrape by without bottled gas.

MIGs are easiest to learn to lay a bead with, and are very nice for doing light sheet metal with, because the deposition rate is higher and lessens the chance of burn-through.

With the advent of new auto-darkening welding helmets, learning stick welding is not as bad as it used to be, either, since you can see a bit of what is going on while trying to strike an arc. Stick welders are considered more versatile, because of the variety of different rods you can use, for different metals, weld strengths, etc.

PS: don't burn your shop down. You need a workplace free of combustibles from flying sparks and gobs of hot metal.

[wms]

Mister BB99,

Here's a link to some info about welding. Different terms and machines. There is also some info about which machine to buy.
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/basics_hints/


Paul, you can weld about any metal with a TIG .

[sol]

I have been happy with Lincoln Electrics AC 225 model that I bought 20 some years ago; it is 230 Volts though; before I had a shop it was powered via a heavy duty extension cord from the dryer outlet.
The higher amperage that a 230 volt model offers is very handy for cutting metal. Also higher voltage welders tend to have a longer duty cycle so you do not have to make a point of waiting for the machine to cool down.
Anyway the price was right for this basic stick welder and it has served me well for a long time.
Yeah like Hu said, be careful about combustibles; my neighbor lost his (nice big) shop; fire investigators believe welding splatter was the culprit.

[Mortek]

The best garage welder in my humble opinion is a tig welder. Yes it requires gas , but there are no sparks flying around at all. It's a slower process, but more forgiving as you have a foot pedal to control amperage. It does however always require two hands, one to hold the torch and one to hold the filler rod. It will allow you to weld any kind of weldable metal. You can set up an account with a local weld supply store, buy or rent the gas cylinder and call them when you need it switched out and they will deliver it for you. It does require a certain amount of skill, but because of the speed of the process you are able to see that you have 100% solubility of the filler metal with the puddle, no cold lapping of the joint. To me it just takes coordination to learn. You can poke around and find a good used one for sale. They require 220 single phase power, kind of like your dryer or your kitchen range.

You can also change them to stick welding with a couple of flips of a switch. Usually they start at about 200 to 250 amps. I have seen less though. I think lincoln once made one that was 180 amps.

Oh one more thing. The most dangerous gas given off is ozone. Very clean and won't smoke up your garage.

[bb99]

Wow, just like Domino’s, but without the breadsticks! But seriously, thanks for letting me know some supply stores will deliver refilled bottles, I really do appreciate the information. This opens up my options. I do still need to deal with the volts issue. My dryer is three floors above my garage, so my only option would be to have a 220 line brought in. The problem with that is that I own a townhouse and this may be an issue for our board to decide.

I’m going to check with the supply stores in my area and see if they deliver bottles. If not, then there is no reason to bring the volts issue to my association.

Thanks for all the info,
bb99

[Mortek]

If your breaker box is in your garage then you just have to run a 220 line to where you want the welder to be from the box.

I ran a line from my meter box on the back of my home to the back of the garage and installed a new breaker box in the garage. It runs a miller 350Lx tig welder and a 3 axis cnc machining center.

[ropewrench]

I have never been able to get a 110 mig to weld aluminum.
Forget the stick welder for aluminum.
220 mig can weld aluminum but you are going to need pacience and pratice.
Tig will weld it all and weld it the best.
With a tig welder and a 220 mig you are going to be limited to where you weld "about 15 feet from the welder.
A 110 mig you can carry and plug just about any where.
A Stick you can get longer leads.
My money for at home is the 110 mig useing both flux core and gas. Gas will look better and cleaner. Use flux when pretty isn't needed.
Get the auto hood, a 4" or 4 1/2" grinder, safety goggles and an old long sleave shirt " sunburn protection".
The money you save on the 110 model and small grinder you should spend on the hood "auto darking lens".

I also gas weld

[HuFlungDung]

Ropewrench is right. It does take lots of juice to mig weld aluminum. And stick welding aluminum is like having a "draw" on mainstreet in Tombstone: you gotta be fast and know exactly where you're going because its all over in seconds

TIG is a bit overkill for a guy who just wants to weld some steel together, IMO. It costs quite a bit to get a good machine. But, only the individual knows what all he plans to do with it eventually.

[Verboten]

Hello,

I would suggest that you consider taking a intro to welding course at your community college.
This would allow you to at least try all of the common welding methods to see which would suit you best. Plus, you will have access to a lot of expensive fabrication equipment (welders, shears, brakes, grinders, torches, bandsaws, tables, etc.) and the instructor may let you bring in your own projects.
It will not be that expensive, should work around your schedule, and you will learn more about welding in a few weeks than you may with a few years of expensive trial and error.

Good luck

[bb99]

Hi All,

Just called my local CC. The next set of beginner welding classes begin on February 19! Also, by looking at the course schedule of the Fall 2003 catalog, it appears that the beginner courses are only offered in the mornings from 7:45 to 10:15. That would be fine if I didn’t have a fulltime job. I’m having the CC send me course information and class schedules for Sprint 04 as soon as they’re printed. In the meantime, I’d like to begin learning. So, here’s a shopping list that I’ve come up with:

110v wire feed welder (MIG/flux combo if possible (depends on $’s))
Grinder (already have a good one so I’ll put the money towards a hood)
Hood (best I can afforded, within reason)
Leather gloves

I’ve been reading the net and I’ve seen comments that the flux splatters quite a bit. My concern is that my neighbors may not like me burning the building down. I don’t have much flammable liquids in my garage and what I do have can be safely stored away. My question is: how much of a “safe zone” do I need around my welding area and what is the best way to contain the sparks/splatter?

--bb99