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| Welding, Brazing, Soldering, Sealing Discuss Welding, Brazing, Soldering, Sealing technique's here. |
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#1
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I need to buy a welder, and looking for some help. I know a few things for sure, probably will be a Lincoln , and a MIG/Flux for sure. I have access to localy two that I am possible interested in. Can anyone give me a hand? I am new to welding, but have several welders in my family that will help me get going. I don't want to break the bank either, looking for about $500, less is better always though :-) I wont be doing much welding, mostily flux core I would think. 1/8" - 3/16" material. Lincoln 3200 HD Lincoln SP 135T Millermatic 135 maybe Any thoughts on these, suggestions for others
__________________ ***For full up to date details visit my blog @ www.donald-neisler.com Donald Neisler |
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#2
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| Don't bother with any welder that doesn't have a 220v plug. The duty cycle sucks on the 120v units. The only thing those little toys are good for is maybe sheet metal. They all only have a 20% duty cycle at 70% output. This means you can only weld 2 minutes in 10. (weld for 2 minutes, cool for 8) These numbers are for 20 C (about 70 F), and I see you are in Texas, you probably have more 90 F days than most. On those days you will be down to 5-10%. I was welding out my shed floor 2 summers ago with a Miller 185, well under the 100% rating for that unit, and I was tripping the thermal switch several times an hour (30-35 C ambient). Make sure you have a gas valve on the unit. If you do go for a little unit, remember most of the flux core wires aren't the best for multiple passes. In the real world you MAY be able to weld 3\16, but only a couple inches at a time. Those small welders have cheaper electronics (you get what you pay for...) and if you insist on running it flat out, the sucker will probably cook itself right after the warranty is up. My advice is to save some money and by a real mig down the road. You should also consider a DC stick machine. There is a steeper learning curve on them, but they handle contaminated metal better. I built my own stick welder with a zena generator, and I can't say enough good about this unit! I have a welder, 6000w genset, and an air compressor on a 13hp honda motor. I have enough power to run 2 out of 3 at the same time! The zena is rated at 100% duty at max current. http://www.zena.net DSL PWR
__________________ On all equipment there are 2 levers... Lever "A", and Lever F'in "B" |
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#3
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| I understand that, makes sense. My issue with spending big money is, this may be the only time I ever use it. Renting one may be a better plan, but I have had such bad luck renting anything. That is why I was looking to buy a small one. I don't have acess to a tto 220, and duty cycle is not a issue for what I will be doing. I will have this project done in a month, so hopefully tempatures wont be a issue either.
__________________ ***For full up to date details visit my blog @ www.donald-neisler.com Donald Neisler |
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#4
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| I've never regreted buying a good tool, only cheap ones. I've bought tools for only one job before, but then you have it for future projects.
__________________ On all equipment there are 2 levers... Lever "A", and Lever F'in "B" |
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#5
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| I bought a 120volt mig from a mail order house in Illinois. Century Electric makes the machine. Does way more than a Lincoln or Miller "home center" cheapie at a fraction of the cost of a comparable industrial grade welder from Lincoln or Miller. I have a hard core IdealArc 250 stick welder (100% ducty cycle at 125 amps) that hasn't been used once since I bought the Century. DO not buy the small toy ones that anybody makes as they are just that - toys. You won't be happy if you plan to use it a lot, especially on heavier metal. Mine ran me about $700 and it has adjustable power, spot welding and many other nice features. It is like the 3rd biggest out of 5 that they sold at the time as I recall. DO not try to run it on a 12-15 amp "wall plug" socket. Run a dedicated, properly fused and wired 20+ amp circuit direct from the fuse panel with "dryer/stove" wire. Makes a HUGE difference in starting and establishing an arc. Besides, when wife fires up a mixer or microwave, you won't see a voltage drop and resultant lame weld. Yes,220 volts might be a pain to get BUT it is worth it when it comes to making welds that LOOK GOOD and ARE GOOD, structurally. I pulled a 220 subpanel to the garage that is connnected right to the main breaker - a real PITA to do but well worth it. The compressor and welder work just fine even if they cycle on at the same time and the lights don' flicker when you fire up a drill, grinder or the like.... Hint: buy the best you can afford, even if you don't need it. This way, you won't be disappointed. |
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#6
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| I own the Lincoln and love it. I am not a professional welder, just use it in the garage. The only time I trip the thermal switch is when I run it on the hottest setting and weld for an extended time. I have built a lot of items with the welder and never had a problem. I would not put my skills up against any pro, but I get a good clean, strong weld nearly all the time. If you don't plan to make a living with it, I would recommend the Lincoln. |
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#7
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| Still considering the Lincoln SP175 Lincoln 3200HD and I found a GReat deal locally on a Millermatic DVI for $1000, but that is stratching my budget really far. What are opinions on each?
__________________ ***For full up to date details visit my blog @ www.donald-neisler.com Donald Neisler |
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#8
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| Check out the following link: http://trailer-bodybuilders.com/mag/...tric_acquires/ Century welders are sold at NORTHERNTOOL.COM. See below for full list: http://www2.northerntool.com/cat-1/114+765791.htm The bigger Centruy's are 'semi-pro' welders as they have many of the features of the miller/hobart/lincoln's but are less costly at the time. Things may have changed since Lincoln bought them out. Whatever you do, do NOT buy a gassless one. Get one with the provisions for a gas solenoid. Makes for easier and nicer welds. Last edited by NC Cams; 01-03-2006 at 05:03 PM. Reason: forgot something |
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#10
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Hi, I picked up a SP 175-Plus last fall and have been using it quite a lot for various projects. What a nice machine. Little previous experience welding, but with a little practice I have been doing (no modesty here) a very nice job; clean radius welds. The only problem I have been having is seeing where the actual joint is. I really like welding with gas. No slag, no chipping... just brush and voila, clean pretty metal. BTW, I bought an auto-dimming (my word) welding helmet. So much nicer than doing the touch-headjerk-trigger dance. Can't imagine doing all the work I've done with one of the old dark-glass helmets. Highly recommended. Later... |
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#11
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| You can get a Hobart Handler 140 that runs off 115 VAC from Tractor Supply, they are always on sale for $419.00. It's a nice MIG, my brother and I have used it for the past 2 years to build 3 of those "Kitchens on Wheels"...the 20 to 24 foot ones. |
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#12
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| The ONLY problem with 110's is that input current is gonna be double that of a comparable 220 running at the same power level. This is why I suggested using heavier wiring in an earlier post - higher current can lead to voltage drop on 14 ga wire used on some 110 plugs.. If your incoming power is such that your two 110 phases are unbalanced load wise (IE: somebody fires up a 1000 watt microwave that is on the same side of the transformer as your welder, line voltage can drop and your weld can start looking ugly). Solution: If you can find ANY way to do it, pull 220 to your garage via a properly wired subpanel and get the bigger machine. If 220 is out, make sure the wife/kids don't decide to start microwaving pizza or cooking a turkey when you're trying to weld something special.... |
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