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Thread: Zach's Homebrew CNC Mill

  1. #37
    Registered jwolin's Avatar
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    Hey I don't want to divert this thread, but just wanted to ask you to consider documenting your project at CNC Mentor.com: | Home. I am just now starting to try to get the word out about the site. You could start a blog or even a group around your idea (think wiki, forum, etc). If you are not interested I totally understand but would like some feedback on what would be helpful if you have time. I am also trying to give back to the CNC community after all these years. I love you ideas. Keep em coming.


  2. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zach_G View Post
    Well I've made some progress in the past month. After weeks of waiting I finally took delivery on the drip tray. Probably overpaid too, at least it came out looking nice, that is until I unleashed my welding talents (or lack thereof). I went with 0.06" steel sheet since it also needs to support a full enclosure which is still tbd. Might just throw together some PVC pipes and shower curtain, I really want to get this thing running soon! Rustoleum primer and enamel was used on the frame and mill. Seemed to scratch off pretty easy with just a fingernail, so I tried 1 part appliance epoxy on the drip tray. A little better but still can scratch it with a fingernail. Should've gone with a 2 part epoxy. Oh yeah, the epoxy granite filling went well for the base of the mill. That sucker is solid now, around 350lbs. I'll have to take pictures and explain the process when I fill the Z column later. Figured its a good idea to wait until after placement on the base while I can still lift it myself. Getting the filled Y column in the drip tray was no simple task. As you can see, its way more fun to rig up levers and blocks to lift a few hundred pounds rather than buy an engine hoist. That's how they built the pyramids. Or maybe it was aliens. Didn't want to wait on them though so I went with blocks and levers.



    You may also now notice there are 4 blocks on the Y rails rather than the original 2. I was mulling mwood3's question on 1 blocks per rail and messing around with a 6" vise on the table. The whole thing just looked wonky and after a quick calculation with machining forces and comparing to bearing ratings, it seemed certain conditions would get dangerously close to the bearings max moment. Fortunately I was perusing ebay and serendipitously discovered another set of NSK bearings! Their mounting height is a little shorter and will require some standoff plates but this allows me to take the Z bearings and put them on the Y. In order to not lose the10" Y goal I bastardized 2 bearings by removing the end caps and sandwiched them together so that their balls now recirculate through both bearings. This saves me nearly 2" off ball return tubes and thus giga-bearing is born! Probably destroyed the P4 rating since the balls are individually sized for each track but wont be noticeable due to the limitations of the ballscrews. They still slide smoothly which is what concerned me most. I also machined a new saddle plate to bolt the X and Y axis together. This will connect to the old saddle plate still attached to the X axis, making life so much easier when it comes time to combine the X and Y since now I dont have to turn bolts in confined spaces. The only drawbacks I can see is a loss of 0.75" of Z travel due to the extra saddle plate, and the stiction of 4 heavily preloaded bearings is up to 80lbs. May have to turn on backlash compensation in Mach3 since I doubt the cheap chinese ballscrews have the rigidity to push 80lbs without deforming several thousandths. Speaking of, I've also begun overhauling the ballscrew bearing ends.



    While the ballscrews and nuts themselves are satisfactory, the cheap pieces of Chinese garbage bearing ends need some serious rework. The rubber seals are so tight on the shafts that they actually start smoking when turning quickly. Off with their seals! Next, all 3 needed nearly 0.025" of shims between the outer bearing race and housing endcap. The one housing that wasnt a press fit would let the bearings float that amount, which shows up as backlash. That's alot of backlash! Lastly, since these AC bearings are not duplex pairs, I decided to shim between the inner races to take out any additional backlash. I managed to destroy 2 sets of AC bearings pressing them off the shaft and out of the housing. Probably more my fault for not having a proper press, but at $6 a replacement from VXB.com its no huge loss. To shim the one good set left I placed arbor spacers (complements of McMaster) between the inner races until the outer races just barely grazed eachother under finger pressure, and then added another 0.001" shim for good measure. This set required 0.006" of shim, though I didnt notice that amount of backlash before due to the press fits probably helping to offset the races some. Could use a little more but I'm hesitant the ABEC1 tolerances would survive heavy preload for long. You can see the super high tech test rig. With the shimming it's getting 0.0015" movement from ~80lbs thrust. Tis all for now, waiting on some boxes with parts to continue. Then I can attempt squaring Y and Z columns once axis are reassembled.

    Awesome drip tray...I have been thinking on one almost exactly like it. Also would be the foundation for my enclosure. I would have made some metal spacer blocks where your threaded rods go through to absorb some of the harmonic vibration

    Did you buy that drip tray or make it your self.
    If you bought it can you share the info?
    If you made it can you share the dimensions?
    Richard


  3. #39
    Registered Zach_G's Avatar
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    Jwolin, nice site. Seems structured in a way that is more conducive to sharing designs and projects than a pure forum structure such as the zone. I'll have to mess around a bit more when I get the time.

    Thanks for the comment sabastion. The drip tray is about 41"x62"x6" deep. I designed it as a sheetmetal component in Inventor and sent the flat pattern and fold angles to a local sheetmetal shop for them to cut and bend to spec for $240, including material. If I had a box and pan brake I'd have attempted to do it myself though this came out way better than I could've done. Welded the seems together myself. It's actually pretty trivial to adjust the dimensions on the CAD model so if you ever decide to go this route I can edit the design to your dimensions and give you the same printout the sheetmetal place took.


  4. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zach_G View Post
    Jwolin, nice site. Seems structured in a way that is more conducive to sharing designs and projects than a pure forum structure such as the zone. I'll have to mess around a bit more when I get the time.

    Thanks for the comment sabastion. The drip tray is about 41"x62"x6" deep. I designed it as a sheetmetal component in Inventor and sent the flat pattern and fold angles to a local sheetmetal shop for them to cut and bend to spec for $240, including material. If I had a box and pan brake I'd have attempted to do it myself though this came out way better than I could've done. Welded the seems together myself. It's actually pretty trivial to adjust the dimensions on the CAD model so if you ever decide to go this route I can edit the design to your dimensions and give you the same printout the sheetmetal place took.
    Those are actually perfect measurements for future plans of extended X and Y axes on my X2. Plus I intend on adding an ATC a little later on. I will be adding some 1" square tubing along the inside edges of pan for mounting an enclosure also (you can steal that idea if you want Lol)

    Yea if you already have it set up and you could send to me that would be an awesome help...but dont go out of your way to draw something up if you dont still have it...thanks
    need to practice my welding any way
    Richard


  • #41
    Registered Zach_G's Avatar
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    No trouble at all. Im kind of OCD about my CAD model matching what I build. If I ever want to make changes it's nice to see the results in CAD first. Attached is the PDF schematic I sent the sheetmetal shop. It is in no way a complete set of dimensions, just enough to get a quote but they managed to fabricate without anything more. Let me know if you need any dimensions changed. The drawing adapts to the model so it's pretty much just change a number in a box and out pops a new drawing.
    Attached Files Attached Files


  • #42
    Registered Zach_G's Avatar
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    I've accomplished quite a bit this weekend. Been fretting over the connection of base a column for a long while now, and it finally came together perfectly. Decided to grout with the epoxy and iron oxide mix rather than scraping since my flange surfaces weren't at all conducive to scraping and grouting allowed the machine to be assembled in alignment without having to constantly scrape and check.

    3 set screws were drilled into the Z column flange, 2 in front and 1 in back. The column is then jacked up to an initial gap of about 1/8" before making necessary adjustments to tram the column. An indicator run along the side and face of an angle plate measures squareness. Depending on the geometry and direction of tilt, adjusting the set screws in the right direction actually moves the indicator further from 0! Took some CAD modeling to help wrap my head around that one and visualize the geometry.



    Once I saw no movement from the indicator, all the edges were sealed up with clear packing tape and modeling clay for the rough patches. The tape needs to be perforated with toothpick sized breather holes. I had hoped I'd be able to just pour some epoxy/iron oxide mix into the Z column based on prior experience of the epoxy slurry oozing from unplugged holes when filling the base. Probably didnt pour enough in so I had to resort to injecting. Mixed up some more epoxy and iron oxide to a viscosity similar to honey and injected it through the breather holes. The mix was pretty thick and only expanded about an inch but also didn't ooze back out. Checked alignment during injection, after curing, and after tightening the flange bolts with no noticeable change whatsoever! Peeling off the tape leaves a perfect seam. Needless to say Im now a big fan of joint replication.



    I decided to fill the Z column with E/G for additional support before attaching the head just in case the offset weight deforms the column. I weigh out all the components on a scale and mix the dry stuff in a 5 gallon bucket before dumping in pre mixed epoxy. A few minutes with a paint mixer results in an E/G the consistency of dry chunky peanut butter. The slurry isnt really pourable, more like scraping it out of the bucket. I then compact the mix with a wooden dowel for 15 minutes to force out as much air as possible. Don't know how effective that is compared to using vaccuum or vibrocompaction, but the bottom face of the base only had a couple small air pockets. There was only enough epoxy left for half, guess my estimates were a little off.



    No matter, should be enough to stabilize the column so I went ahead and attached the head and table. Had to use shims to tram the head forward/back since there's no means of adjustment in that direction. Also need to shim the table, it's about 0.003" higher on one side.



    I played around with the DTI and jogging a bunch, the advertised rigdity spec of these so called "anti-backlash" screws is a joke. There's about 0.008" of backlash in the Y, 0.002" Z, 0.001" X. Guess I'll need to overhaul the ball nuts like I did the bearing ends to squeeze out that backlash =\ Oh well, sure does look pretty on that stand.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Zach's Homebrew CNC Mill-dsc00999.jpg   Zach's Homebrew CNC Mill-dsc01003.jpg   Zach's Homebrew CNC Mill-dsc01015.jpg   Zach's Homebrew CNC Mill-side--side.jpg  



  • #43
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    I've been following your thread for a while now, man this is inspiring. Once i get some time and money, I plan on taking on this type of challenge myself.

    Anyways, keep up the great work. Machine is looking good.


  • #44
    Registered Zach_G's Avatar
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    Thanks for the encouragement! Youll need quite alot of time and a good chunk of money. Im in about $4k now, and dont want to even think about time consumed. Granted alot of that is spent researching and part sourcing. If I had to do it again (and yes, I've already got a list of things I'd do differently...) probably wouldn't take nearly as long.

    Right now Im in a sprint to the finish, of course these things are never really completed are they haha. Always improvements to make.


  • #45
    Registered jsheerin's Avatar
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    Looking good! Thanks for posting your progress. If you want to post what you'd do differently at any point I'd be interested in that. I think that's some of the most helpful information you can share.
    CNC mill build thread: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/vertical_mill_lathe_project_log/110305-gantry_mill.html


  • #46
    giz
    giz is online now
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    Loving this build - if I ever build a metal-working CNC from scratch I will definitely use this as a reference.


  • #47
    Registered Zach_G's Avatar
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    I've achieved a state of functionality! Lost interest for awhile, then got back into it. Did some more shimming to square up the table and tightened down some things to work out some backlash in combination with software backlash compensation to hit within a couple thous. Also put together waycovers for the Y axis. Tried overpriced flat bellows from Mcmaster but the folds were too stiff that it just ballooned out rather than collapsing back down. So I took a tip from the zone http://www.cnczone.com/forums/genera..._made_way.html and made up my own folded denim waycovers.

    Zach's Homebrew CNC Mill-dsc01047.jpg

    Took alooot of work but turned out nice. They are fairly self-supporting over the short Y axis. Not too sure about the waterproofing of the spar varnish, it seems to absorb a small amount of water but we'll see how it goes. Still need to fold up the z cover and make mounts but I felt comfortable enough to go ahead and attempt a cut:



    Been a couple weeks since then but I believe that was a 3/8" 2 flute carbide at 3krpm and 0.002" per tooth feed, 3/8 depth and 60% stepover. The smallish table felt like it had some noticeable vibrations but everything else was a faint buzz. Did some lighter finish passes and got a pretty decent surface finish!

    Zach's Homebrew CNC Mill-dsc01045.jpg

    Threw chips everywhere so I whipped up an enclosure out of PVC pipe and shower curtains. Small neodymium magnets at the bottom help keep the curtain from billowing out. Thank goodness for the leveling feet and casters, made it so much easier to reposition in its final resting point, now I can park my car in the garage again before it starts snowing!

    Zach's Homebrew CNC Mill-dsc01242.jpg


    Still got the limit switches to wire up, and hook up the flood coolant. Maybe a better way to lock the spindle rather than using a strap wrench. Then we should really be cooking. Oh yeah, and a belt cover to contain some of the spindle noise. It's geared 1:1 on a 3440 rpm motor and the spindle heats up noticeably at that speed. Could probably overdrive it with the VFD to 5000rpm with better bearings, though I'm kinda wishing I had geared it down for more low end torque. Might play with the voltage/current curves in the VFD but I doubt this arrangement could run a tap since torque drops off substantially below 1000 rpm; to the point where I can stall it by hand.

    Funny how all these little details seem to take more effort than the mechanics. Probably had more motivation earlier in the build too.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Zach's Homebrew CNC Mill-dsc01047.jpg   Zach's Homebrew CNC Mill-dsc01045.jpg   Zach's Homebrew CNC Mill-dsc01242.jpg  
    Last edited by Zach_G; 10-25-2011 at 11:03 AM.


  • #48
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    Thanks for posting the pictures of the enclosure. I'll consider making something like that for my Bridgeport.

    Tom


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