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  1. #21
    Gold Member BobWarfield's Avatar
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    sergizmo, that squaring process is also used in the professional world, though usually with moglice or something similar rather than JBWeld!

    The other difference is that rather than build it relative to the surface plate, they would square the column on the machine itself and then inject the material between the two pieces with a dam to hold it inside.

    It works very well.

    Cheers,

    BW

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    Thanks for the info Bob.

    I wanted to do it separately so the column could be removed later. The machine will have to be torn down to be moved sooner or later.

    The JB is in the mild steel range for strength and hardness which is fine. Plus it does not shrink. It's just being used to create a surface, there is no movement or anything. I wouldn't think of using it on a moving surface or the like.

    http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

    I'm having problems with the electronics again... Missing steps on the X and I had a freeze where it seemed to be stuck between steps. It's a really simple program, a domino top surface and profile. It machined the first one OK except for a couple missed steps on the X (a ridge on one layer of the roughing pass), second started missing more steps and the third out and out froze. I also could jog in .001" increments on the X but not .0001". This is getting really frustrating. I'll shoot out another email (hopefully he responds this time...), call if there is no response and try some things like Sherline mode to see if that fixes it. This is Gecko 250 based and I heard about that problem (needed Sherline mode) with some of them.

    If that doesn't work and things aren't resolved via email or phone I'll start to look at another electronics package... Probotix, Keeling, etc...

    Serge



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    Hi Serge,
    Thank you for the explaination!

    As for your electronics - if possible, try swapping the X- and Y-axis drives and see if the problem follows the drive or if it stays on the X-axis. If it follows the drive, well then it's the drive. If it stays on the X-axis it could be a wiring problem (although not likely) or a heat problem as you seem to have indicated already.

    The manual for the G250/251 calls for a minimum pulse width of 1uS, Mach3 will put out at least that, normally ~3uS even without increasing the pulsewidth setting. If Sherlinemode is needed you may have a problematic LPT-cable, I've seen that be the case. Obviosuly I don't know what the OEM may have put in between the LPT-port and the G251/251 which may be causing the problem as well.

    If you don't get the suport you need from where you bought it, and you suspect the problem is with the actual G250/251, you can always try contacting Geckodrive directly.

    /Henrik.



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    Henrik,

    I sent the control back, and assume something was done to check/fix that drive. I was very clear in the emails about what was going wrong.

    The computer was bought brand new. It may have an "under powered" parallel port, I've heard of this. Newer motherboards can have them.

    The first thing I'm going to try is Sherline mode. It seems there are many, many people who have had to do this with the 250/251. If that doesn't work I'll look at the cable, thank you for the suggestion.

    Serge



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    Hi,
    Yes, the underpowered LPT-port issue is quite common but the G250/251 doesn't have any opto-isolators so they require very little current on the step and direction inputs. They will (or should according to the datasheet) also work on both 3.3V and 5V ports. But, anything is possible and, as I said, if the OEM has put a break-out-board between the port and the drive then it's a whole other matter.

    What I'm trying to say about the cable is that IF it starts to work with Sherline mode turned on then the actual problem might be the cable. Bad/low quality cables can do strange things to narrow pulses like the ones sent out from Mach3 due to the capacitance of the cable. Increasing the pulsewidth considderably, which is what Sherline mode does, helps overcome the issue. Your description of the problem doesn't exactly match the symptoms of a bad cable though.

    I'm sure you'll get it sorted in no-time, good luck!

    /Henrik.



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    Electronics are by CandCNC. Initial performance looks to be very good. Fast and plenty of power. I got the Blade runner complete system with upgraded steppers and power supply (600oz-in and 48V). Yes, 600-oz in NEMA 23's running off a Gecko 251 based system.
    Not wanting to rain on anyones parade but I can't find any triple stack Nema 23's that'll manage 600oz! Generally all top out at about 380-390oz? So are these Nema 34's in which case they are underperforming or true Nema 23's which are possibly being asked to do more than they are able although with linear rails this is difficult to imagine. Without knowing what is in the CandCNC Blade Runner box it is difficult to diagnose but the manual refers to an internal fan - is this working? Have the G251's been installed correctly with a decent heatsink? Doesn't seem right having to suppliment cooling for a purpose made box?



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    http://www.candcnc.com/

    Click on "Complete Packages" at the top and then tabletop/benchtop. BladeRunner combo with upgraded motors. I have no way of testing or verifying this.

    There is a small internal fan. The Controller is very cramped inside, I think that is part of the problem. Everything is crammed together.There is a plate at the bottom that is the heat-sink. I have now drilled a bunch more holes in the case and that has lowered the temp another 2* according to the sensor on the plate.

    Sherline mode was switched on, this looks to have solved the problem.



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    Update: The Sherline mode fix has worked very well. No missed steps!

    I've done stage one on a set of dominoes. The finished dimensions will be 1.75" by .875" by .25". A 2" by .5" billet of aluminum is cut into .95" lengths. The tool used is a 3/8", 3 flute, 1.125" cutting length Sowa aluminum cutting (high helix) carbide endmill with a .005" rad at the corners. Run at 5,000 RPM for all ops. Stage one surfaces .006" off the top at 25 IPM, then roughs the profile at .043" DOC (.258" total, specified a max of .050") and 25 IPM. To end a finish pass of .005" full depth at 25 IPM. Total cycle time is 2:53. With the Sherline it was 12:30. I'm sure it could do 30IPM easy, there was no vibration at the spindle and these endmills like fast feeding so that would bring it down to 2:30 or so. Finish is a mirror.











  9. #29
    Gold Member BobWarfield's Avatar
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    Lay those out as a strip of 4 on the vise and it'll go faster.

    When you flip to face mill off the backing they'll drop out individually.

    You can use work offsets in your program to make the coding easier.

    Cheers,

    BW

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    Hi Sergizmo,
    What is that above mill, that round shape. Does it connect directly to sherline spindle. Do you think can mill any steel with this spindle. I am just want to know, I plan to buy this sherline also for my mill but I plan to mill steel. Thanks.



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    Quote Originally Posted by sergizmo View Post
    Unfourtunately I didn't know about the local Metal Supermarkets at the time, they have some pieces that could have been used for the base. One was 8" wide by 3 1/2" thick, that would have done nicely.
    But the price you would have had to pay... I usually pay about $6 a lb there.

    bob



  12. #32
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    Sergizmo,

    Are you making dominoes for a game?

    Very nice work!

    Jeff...

    Patience and perseverance have a magical effect before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish.


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    Nice machine you have built.
    Is it really in your bedroom?
    I hope to build something very close to that. With the set up you have how repeatable is it? Sorry its more than likely a stupid question but im new to DIY CNC's.



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    Quote Originally Posted by latheboy View Post
    Nice machine you have built.
    Is it really in your bedroom?
    I hope to build something very close to that. With the set up you have how repeatable is it? Sorry its more than likely a stupid question but im new to DIY CNC's.
    It does look like a nice machine, and he isn't the only one one here to be crazy enough to have a mill in an apartment, but with all those chips, I can't help thinking it's crying out for a full enclosure!



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    I dont even know where to start. Ill start with this awesome. How is the repeatability on it? What do you figure the total cost to be with vice?



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    Quote Originally Posted by asuratman View Post
    Hi Sergizmo,
    What is that above mill, that round shape. Does it connect directly to sherline spindle. Do you think can mill any steel with this spindle. I am just want to know, I plan to buy this sherline also for my mill but I plan to mill steel. Thanks.
    Sorry guys for not responding sooner.

    Hi asuratman,
    Do you mean the motor? The motor is a 1/2 horsepower 1700 RPM DC motor with a simple load compensating speed control (knob) type system similar to those found on the Sherline. I have it belted 3:1 with L series timing belt pulleys for a max RPM of 5,000.

    This may not be the best for steel. Unfortunately there are not many options besides the X2 spindle which is in my opinion crap. If you do go with the Sherline be sure to go with P/N 6501, 6502, 6503 or 6504. Those are the ones with the beefier case.

    http://www.sherlineipd.com/spindles.htm

    Do not get one of the all in one units with motor.

    Serge



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    Quote Originally Posted by rowbare View Post
    But the price you would have had to pay... I usually pay about $6 a lb there.

    bob
    Eeeek! They might discount the bigger pieces, who knows. Anyways, I think the base block is wide enough for the application. I'll run out of horsepower before any kind of flexing/deflection happens.



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    Quote Originally Posted by jalessi View Post
    Sergizmo,

    Are you making dominoes for a game?

    Very nice work!

    Jeff...
    Thanks Jeff,

    Yes. I'm making a standard set of 28 for a friends wife.

    I'm facing of the other end right now. Next up is rounding the edges with a 1/32" carbide radius mill. Then engraving with a 1/8" ball nose. Then bead blast and paint fill.

    Serge



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    Quote Originally Posted by latheboy View Post
    Nice machine you have built.
    Is it really in your bedroom?
    I hope to build something very close to that. With the set up you have how repeatable is it? Sorry its more than likely a stupid question but im new to DIY CNC's.
    Yes it's really in my bedroom.

    In terms of mechanical repeatability it's excellent, all 3 axis have only .0001" of backlash due to the ground screws (measured by jogging one way then the other with a tenths test indicator). Thank you ebay.

    I'll have to get the steps per inch absolutely dialed in perfect in Mach3 to make an accurate assessment, but from what I can see so far holding +/- .001" will be no problem.

    Serge



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    Quote Originally Posted by digits View Post
    It does look like a nice machine, and he isn't the only one one here to be crazy enough to have a mill in an apartment, but with all those chips, I can't help thinking it's crying out for a full enclosure!

    Oh it is! When facing off the dominoes I was restricted to cutting in one direction to avoid blasting chips onto my bed. Hopefully in the next couple weeks...



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DIY aluminum vertical mill build

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