Grizzly G0602 10" x 22" Lathe Conversion - Page 5


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Thread: Grizzly G0602 10" x 22" Lathe Conversion

  1. #81
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    Thanks for the reply, I have called Grizzly and they are sending me new bearings. but if they failed after 4 hours I would like to get some better ones and maybe sealed bearings if that if possible.


    Quote Originally Posted by Hans_G View Post
    I would call Grizzly first, they ought to cover that. Of course that won't really be an upgrade of any sort. Have you looked at the "10x22grizzlyandthelike" group? There's at least one or two threads on spindle bearing replacement and upgrading.




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    Quote Originally Posted by Astroguy View Post
    Thanks for the reply, I have called Grizzly and they are sending me new bearings. but if they failed after 4 hours I would like to get some better ones and maybe sealed bearings if that if possible.
    When bearings fail on Chinese machines, it often is more the low quality grease (Or sometimes lack of it) that do them in, rather than bad bearings. Try some good quality grease with the new bearings. That should serve you well.

    CR.



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    Quote Originally Posted by Crevice Reamer View Post
    When bearings fail on Chinese machines, it often is more the low quality grease (Or sometimes lack of it) that do them in, rather than bad bearings. Try some good quality grease with the new bearings. That should serve you well.

    CR.

    Thank You I will!!



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    Quote Originally Posted by Garland View Post
    how does the L1022 CNC lathe compare to the Syil C6?
    Well, of course, the Syil is already a CNC. But the Syil C6 is a different platform than the 10x22. The C6 only has a MT3 3/4 inch spindle bore, compared to the much heavier MT4 1 inch bore spindle on the G602.

    CR.



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    Quote Originally Posted by Crevice Reamer View Post
    When bearings fail on Chinese machines, it often is more the low quality grease (Or sometimes lack of it) that do them in, rather than bad bearings. Try some good quality grease with the new bearings. That should serve you well.

    CR.
    UPDATE: I have installed the new bearings and all seems well I used Mobil 1 high temp high speed bearing grease. I also popped out the balls on the oilers and install grease fittings. Now one question I am not sure how much to tighten the spindle? I tightened it up until there was no more play in the bearings and then gave the nut another half turn. I hope it is not too tight it spins very easy but there is no instructions on how much load to put on the bearings.

    Fred



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    Mate I would ask a Bearing manufacturer. Tell them the application, speed and bearing configuration and they can work it out for you.

    Cheers,
    Chich



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    Derek....where are you....

    Paul



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    Default Using the exsisting lead screws on the Grizzly Lathe

    I am a shop teacher and just purchased one of these lathes to convert to CNC. Because of a shortage of funds I hope to use some stepper motors I scrounged from another lathe. I also have a 3 stepper Xylotex drive board. Is it neccessary to switch to the ball screws? My goal is to have studnets write the program to turn down a hammer handle and then cnc the threads 5/8 - 11. Plan on using Mach III.

    Thanks.

    Jack Jenkins



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    Hello Jack.

    You can CNC anything with stock screws. It will just run slower, require more maintenance and wear out quicker. Zylotex? For a heavily used lathe--Used by students?

    You have to decide which is the better use of your time--Making chips or making repairs? IMO, a student operated machine needs to be unkillable and bulletproof as possible.

    CR.



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    Default Open to recommendations

    I read through this thread and I did notice that there was mention of Gecko. this is all new to me. So if you have any suggestions let me have them.

    Thanks.

    Jack



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    I recommend THESE electronics for the G0602:

    $289 G540 http://www.http://geckodrive.com/pro...px?c=3&i=14469
    $098 two KL23H284-35-4B 387 oz motor for X and Z When available, the KL23H2100-35-4B 381 oz motor will be an even better choice.
    $060 One KL-350-48 48V/7.3A power supply.
    $010 Estop switch
    $005 2 Home switches
    $009 Straight thru parallel computer cable.
    -------
    $471

    All of this is available from Keling:

    http://kelinginc.net/

    THESE motors are also good, cost only $3 more each and come with pre-made cables that are short, but should work with this lathe:

    http://cncrouterparts.com/product_in...ahst6mjdph4nm0

    You may also need some other stuff:

    You can use THIS wire for motor cables and home/limit switches. Ground the drain wire ONLY at the driver end. (Pins 3,4,5 for motors, PSU Ground for homes/limits)

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Stepper-Motor-Wi...item45ecb75966

    It also comes in 100 ft roll.

    BELDEN 8723-100 STEPPER MOTOR CABLE WIRE

    $32 http://www.fullcompass.com/product/305455.html 3 WK SHP

    $33? http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/catalogs/c273/P101.pdf

    $38 http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...100-/36F1033WA

    $39 http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...oductId=734180

    $40 http://www.markertek.com/Product.asp...&utm_campaign=

    $44 http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/Pro...SC=8723+060100

    EUROPE http://www.cable-world.co.uk/online.htm


    You won't need any db9 motor connectors with the G540, as they come WITH it. The G540 also has circuitry for simple spindle speed control and outputs for dc relays to turn coolant pump (Or router motor) on or off.

    These inexpensive relays are very good :

    https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.a...tname=electric

    You will need one of THESE 1/4 Watt 3.48K resistors for each 381 or 387:

    3.48KXBK-ND

    Or one of THESE 1/4 W 2.8K resistors for each 270:

    2.80KXBK-ND

    They only come in a pack of five, so about $1 for 10. With shipping it's about $3.50

    http://digikey.com/

    Or, in Canada:

    http://digikey.ca/

    You will also need an estop switch, Home/limit switches, Helical couplings and a 6 foot "straight thru parallel port cable. These are all available from Keling:

    http://kelinginc.net/CNCPackage.html

    The G540 is so small that many are mounting theirs INSIDE the computer case.

    Camtronics has a case MADE for the G540:

    http://s120220635.onlinehome.us/stepper-components.asp

    CR.



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    If this is ALL new to you, then maybe some of this will be helpful:

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78713.#3

    CR.



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    Quote Originally Posted by Astroguy View Post
    UPDATE: I have installed the new bearings and all seems well I used Mobil 1 high temp high speed bearing grease. I also popped out the balls on the oilers and install grease fittings. Now one question I am not sure how much to tighten the spindle? I tightened it up until there was no more play in the bearings and then gave the nut another half turn. I hope it is not too tight it spins very easy but there is no instructions on how much load to put on the bearings.
    Fred, there is a 3 page spindle bearing pre-load adjustment in the G9972 11" x 26" manual. http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g9972z_m.pdf I'm pretty sure it is the same spindle. There are other applicable adjustments that the G0602 manual leaves out too.

    Thanks to Derek for all the info on a great conversion and to Crevice Reamer for putting up a parts list and to all of the contributors for making this a great thread.
    Al



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    I no longer recommend the CNCRouterparts motors. Firstly they are not as good a G540 match as the now available Keling 381s. Secondly, the supplied cable is only one foot long, which forces you to buy the $17 TWELVE FOOT extension, (Way too much cable run) which means that each motor costs $20 more than the Keling 381s.

    http://crevicereamer.com/Page_71.html

    I will soon be finishing the "how to solder up G540 cables" article at:
    http://crevicereamer.com/Page_4.html

    MERRY CHRISTMAS and HAPPY HOLIDAYS to all!

    CR.

    http://crevicereamer.com
    Too many PMs. Email me to my name plus At A O L dot com.


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    Quote Originally Posted by AKGrayWolf View Post
    Fred, there is a 3 page spindle bearing pre-load adjustment in the G9972 11" x 26" manual. http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g9972z_m.pdf I'm pretty sure it is the same spindle. There are other applicable adjustments that the G0602 manual leaves out too.

    Thanks to Derek for all the info on a great conversion and to Crevice Reamer for putting up a parts list and to all of the contributors for making this a great thread.
    Al
    Thanks!



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    Very impressive and cool project. I just picked up a 4016 last week but have yet to use it...we have a Fadal 4020HT VMC with the 88HS control (1995)...so are familiar with CNC... After seeing this post and seeing the youtube video, I am definitely looking to convert this lathe in the future...

    We are robot systems integrators so projects like this shouldn't be an issue.

    One question and pardon my ignorance - is it possible to convert to CNC but still keep the hand controls to have my cake and eat it too?



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    Quote Originally Posted by MBX5 View Post
    One question and pardon my ignorance - is it possible to convert to CNC but still keep the hand controls to have my cake and eat it too?
    That question is often asked. Most everyone thinks they want to keep manual control--Until they actually CNC the machine--and then they soon forget about it.

    You CAN operate the lathe manually by jogging it with the keyboard. Think of it as power feed on both axes.

    You might want to read some of this:

    http://crevicereamer.com/Page_2.html

    CR.

    http://crevicereamer.com
    Too many PMs. Email me to my name plus At A O L dot com.


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    the MDI feature of mach3 is SOO much better then manual.... You can enter code line by line so for simple cuts and such.



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    Crevice Reamer, Thanks a million for the Driver Suggestions. This is exactly what I ended up ordering for my Grizzly 10x22. Should be in next week.

    I have a question (to anyone) regarding the ballscrews and couplings.

    The couplings in Derek's list end up being very high by the time you buy both halves and the rubber from McMaster Carr you end up at $36 per coupling. I wonder why he went this way, wouldn't some good zero backlash, spiral couplings be much cheaper and much better? Opinions welcome.

    If I'm reading McMasters description correctly, they are showing the ballnut clearance to be 0.015", doesn't that creat a whole lot of backlash issues? Being a lathe I know BL isn't "that" critical, but I would think you'd want to be 0 to maybe 0.003" or so ? Am I reading it wrong? BallScrew# 5966K262 BallNut #5966K16

    The angular contact bearings for the fixed end. #6680K12 I guess those running back to back ought to be pretty darn good for $26 each. These are open bearings, in this environment, would it be better to throw a couple of seals in there or would the metal filings eat them alive?

    I notice Derek did not have any bearings listed for the free end although he mentioned adding some later. Looks like McMaster #5972K327 12x32x10mm metal shielded ought to be good enough for the free end, especially being $4.41 each.

    This will be my first endeavor thru CNC Land other than a few small projects and I don't want to mess it up too bad...

    Thanks for any suggestions or opinions.
    Richard



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    Quote Originally Posted by rwskinner View Post
    ...
    If I'm reading McMasters description correctly, they are showing the ballnut clearance to be 0.015", doesn't that creat a whole lot of backlash issues? Being a lathe I know BL isn't "that" critical, but I would think you'd want to be 0 to maybe 0.003" or so ? Am I reading it wrong? BallScrew# 5966K262 BallNut #5966K16...
    I ordered some linear rails recently (different project) and found these ballscrews, which I bookmarked for future use... http://www.automation4less.com/store/cutandship.asp

    Cheers,
    -Neil.



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Grizzly G0602 10" x 22" Lathe Conversion

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