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Thread: G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION

  1. #81
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    Default SPINDLE-MOTOR CNC CONTROL RELAY

    Let's install the spindle-motor control relay inside the headstock.

    Here are two #36 holes:


    Now let's tap those holes to 6-32:


    Relay mounted:


    The top terminal is Normally Closed.
    The next terminal down is N.O.
    The far-left terminal is Common.
    The bottom two terminals are for relay coil.

    Here's the G0602 wiring diagram:

    LEGEND:
    L: Line Voltage
    N: Neutral
    PE: Ground
    KM: Magnetic Motor Contactor 110V, 20A
    SB1: ON Push Button Switch (With KM holding circuit through KM)
    SB2: Emergency Stop Push Button Switch
    C1: Motor-start capacitor
    C2: Motor start capacitor
    SA: Motor Direction Rotary Switch
    M: Motor 110V

    Can you figure out how the relay will be wired so that full manual motor control is allowed, but by command of Mach3, it turns motor on while disabling manual operation, and off?

    CR.

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    Let's review normal operation of the G0602 motor power circuit, and then wire up our new control relay:

    The 110V line voltage comes directly from the power cord to the KM relay coil. From there, it travels through the Estop switch, (SB2) and then to momentary push-button switch SB1. Pushing SB1 closes relay KM and enables the holding circuit to keep it closed.

    At this point, Power is supplied to motor-direction switch SA, but the motor will not run unless a direction is selected. The relay will remain closed until either Estop switch is turned off, or power cord disconnected. (Or until the Master Switch on my FC stand is turned off.)

    At some future time, I may want to control motor-direction by Mach3. Right now though, I only want Mach3 to start and stop the motor by G Code command. I will manually select motor direction at beginning of program, and turn motor on and off by turning motor contactor KM on and off.

    When the motor control relay is OFF, the motor will be controlled manually as normal, through the relay NC contact.

    CAUTION!! THESE ARE 110V AC WIRES. MAKE SURE POWER IS OFF AND MACHINE UNPLUGGED!
    CAUTION!! THESE ARE 110V AC WIRES. MAKE SURE POWER IS OFF AND MACHINE UNPLUGGED!
    CAUTION!! THESE ARE 110V AC WIRES. MAKE SURE POWER IS OFF AND MACHINE UNPLUGGED!

    We will wire this up by first cutting the wire (#4) between Estop switch SB2 and Push-to-start switch SB1:




    The Estop end is wired to relay Common terminal, using a crimp spade terminal and a crimp splice:


    The Push-button end of the wire is routed to the NC terminal of relay:


    Normal manual control of the motor is now restored.

    The way things are wired, all we have to do to activate relay KM, is provide a connection from Estop to Neutral wire of power cord. That connection is available on contactor KM, but it is difficult to reach. I opted to remove 4 screws from the electrical box and slide the box back to achieve access.

    The easier way is to just remove the relay from its mount. See the big hole that I drilled for thread-sensor wires? Just to the left of it is a screw and washer:


    The KM relay is mounted on a slide track. That little screw and washer is the only thing keeping the relay on the track. Removing the screw and sliding the relay to the right takes the relay from its mount and allows access to all KM terminals. Whichever way you access it, now is the time to make sure ALL terminals are tight and all wire crimps good.

    WHOOPS! I would have drilled that big hole in a different place, had I known then how the KM relay is removed. The hole and sensor wires will be relocated to the upper right hand corner--for both easy relay-removal and to route the thread sensor wires well-away from the rotating spindle.

    Here is the Mach3 control wire connected to the control-relay NO terminal and routed back to the KM electrical box with the other wires:


    This is the N terminal where contact will be made using a slide terminal:




    The relay coil will be powered by 24V and a G540 output:


    Mach3 activation of motor-control relay also BREAKS the connection of the push-button start switch and deactivates the holding circuit. Motor control by the new relay is absolute and G Code On-Off spindle-motor control is assured.

    The Original Estop switch motor-stop function is retained for both manual and Mach3 operation. Later, we'll also wire the G540 Estop function to the same switch, using the second set of NC contacts.

    CR

    Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 07-17-2010 at 03:27 PM. Reason: ADD CAUTION 110V AC
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    Let's run some wiring up to the electrical box:


    Attaching wire protector to existing electrical box unused cable inlet:


    Routed 8 pair cable and one extra 24V relay line. Notice start/run capacitors have been repositioned to left of box:


    CR.

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    Default ELECTRICAL BOX TERMINAL STRIP

    Drilled the new hole for sensor wires:


    Let's mount a terminal strip for electrical box:

    With the terminal strip mounted to a plastic strip, it can slide into the electrical box:


    It is mounted to the plastic with countersunk flat head screws and nuts:


    It goes in at an angle, but then lays flat and will be secured with a screw:


    Now it can be removed as necessary for wiring it up with this 8 conductor twisted pair wire:


    CR.

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    Perhaps you were wondering what these small holes were for:


    They are for the wire tie, which will act as a strain-relief:




    Final routing of the cable assembly:


    TERMINAL STRIP WIRING GUIDE:

    VFD GRD-----VFD OUT-------+VFD IN--------RELAY OUT-------ESTOP------------BLK------------GRN-------------RED
    |<-------------VFD------------>|--------------------------------|<---ESTOP--->|<-------SENSOR WIRES------->|
    0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0

    0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0
    7---------------8---------------9---------------5--------------10--------------NEG-------------1--------------+24V
    BLUE------WHITE/BLUE------WHITE/OR--------ORANGE--------WHITE/BR--------BROWN---------GREEN---------WHITE/GR
    |<----PAIR---->|:::::::::::::::::::|<----PAIR---->|::::::::::::::::::|<----PAIR---->|::::::::::::::::::|<----PAIR---->|

    Relay coil +24V will be provided by above extra wire run alongside 4 pair cable.

    CR.

    Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 07-21-2010 at 03:20 PM. Reason: Modify wiring diagram with Estop ground
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    I had mounted the terminal strip too close to electrical box wall. Had to move it over a little so terminals would fit:




    Wiring the G540 section of Estop switch:


    CR.

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    There is a mistake in the above wired terminal strip, as shown below. The brown and white/brown wires were transposed. I wired the brown to where the white/brown should have been and vice-versa. One of you hawk-eyed Zoners should have caught that!

    TERMINAL STRIP WIRING GUIDE:

    VFD GRD-----VFD OUT-------+VFD IN--------RELAY OUT-------ESTOP------------BLK------------GRN-------------RED
    |<-------------VFD------------>|--------------------------------|<---ESTOP--->|<-------SENSOR WIRES------->|
    0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0

    0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0
    7---------------8---------------9---------------5--------------10--------------NEG-------------1--------------+24V
    BLUE------WHITE/BLUE------WHITE/OR--------ORANGE--------WHITE/BR--------BROWN---------GREEN---------WHITE/GR
    |<----PAIR---->|:::::::::::::::::::|<----PAIR---->|::::::::::::::::::|<----PAIR---->|::::::::::::::::::|<----PAIR---->|




    CR.

    Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 07-22-2010 at 11:45 AM. Reason: ADD PICS
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    Here is the way it SHOULD have been wired:


    CR.

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    Default EXTENDING SPINDLE SENSOR WIRES

    Let's wire up the Hall Effect thread index sensor:

    The wires that come attached to the sensor are not long enough to reach the new terminal strip. To extend them, I'm using a foot or so of motor cable. This cable has the same black/green/red colored stranded wires as the sensor. I will use staggered reverse-wire-twist "Western-Union" splices to join the two:

    http://www.saskschools.ca/curr_conte...5/lesson5.html

    Notice the pre-positioned heat-shrink tubing:


    After splicing, I have soldered the joints. Yes, this makes a possible breakage point in flexible wire, but these joints won't flex much and will be supported by several layers of heat-shrink tubing:


    Next the pre-positioned HS tubing is slid over the joints and shrunk with a heat gun:


    Long HS tubing is now applied. It is hard to push wires through a long section, so the HST will be in two sections. This also doubles the HS over the joints. First section:


    And Shrunk:


    Second section is now slid on. To improve the crimped connection on thin wires like this, I like to double over the stripped ends:


    Here is the business end of the sensor with wiring routed thru lathe bulkhead. All drilling dust has been carefully cleaned up from around it and the spindle before final installation. The brass screws are Loctited in place and the mount screws have lock washers:


    The wiring travels well-clear of the rotating spindle:


    And enters the Electrical box:


    CR.

    Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 07-24-2010 at 08:20 AM. Reason: Add text.
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    Default UPDATE ON MY PROBLEMS WITH PHOTOBUCKET

    Previously, I was unable to upload pics from my new 12 MP camera. The old 6.1 MP camera had always worked fine. After tinkering, found that "Bulk uploader" would work with images, but I still could not upload videos.

    PROBLEM SOLVED:

    Now I can upload both images AND video from new camera. Just needed to update to latest version of Adobe Flash Player.

    http://get.adobe.com/flashplayer/

    CR.

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    Default FINISH WIRING TERMINAL STRIP

    The VFD terminals are for possible future use. Here, from left to right, are the Relay, Estop and sensor connections. Notice the sensor cable is tied to the other 3 wires:


    The Ground terminal is doing double-duty for both Estop and sensor:


    After testing continuity of all wiring, we can install the strip (By tilting to left and sliding it in under the capacitor) into the electrical box and screw it down:


    The Electrical box is now finished, and after testing will have its cover screwed back on:


    CR.

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    Default WIRING OTHER END OF CABLE

    OK! Here's the Electrical box wiring:

    ELECTRICAL BOX TERMINAL STRIP WIRING GUIDE:

    VFD GRD-----VFD OUT-------+VFD IN--------RELAY OUT-------ESTOP------------BLK------------GRN-------------RED
    |<-------------VFD------------>|--------------------------------|<---ESTOP--->|<-------SENSOR WIRES------->|
    0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0

    0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0-------|-------0
    7---------------8---------------9---------------5--------------10--------------NEG-------------1--------------+24V
    BLUE------WHITE/BLUE------WHITE/OR--------ORANGE--------WHITE/BR--------BROWN---------GREEN---------WHITE/GR
    |<----PAIR---->|:::::::::::::::::::|<----PAIR---->|::::::::::::::::::|<----PAIR---->|::::::::::::::::::|<----PAIR---->|

    Now let's wire up the OTHER end of the cable:




    The connections are, left to right:
    1. White/Green, +24V
    2. Green, Sensor Input #1
    3. Orange, Motor Relay Output #1
    4. Blue, VFD Ground
    5. White/Blue, VFD Output
    6. White/Orange, VFD +10V
    7. White/Brown, Estop
    8. Brown, Ground
    9. Brown, Separate +24V wire for Motor Relay.

    CR.

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    Default FIRST MOTOR RELAY TEST

    The way the G540 outputs work, is they provide a circuit to ground when activated. I should be able to test the relays by connecting a wire to ground and then touching that wire to the output terminal. The motor should start and then stop. Let's try it:




    Oh! Oh! The relay DID start the motor, but the motor should have STOPPED when the ground wire was taken off the terminal. I had to kill it with the master switch. This would mean Mach3 could START the lathe motor, but not STOP it.

    I forgot to take into account the centrifugal switch in the G0602 motor. This does not disengage until the motor RPM has wound down a bit. That delay allows the G0602 KM contactor hold circuit to activate upon motor-control relay release, and keep the motor powered on until Estop or power disconnect. This MUST be fixed.



    Can anyone guess how I'm going to solve this problem?

    CR.

    Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 07-26-2010 at 11:10 AM.
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    To solve the problem, let's install a SPST on/off switch between the motor-start relay and the SB1 manual push-to-start switch:


    UP is CNC operation:


    DOWN is manual operation:


    Flipping switch up to CNC will also kill holding-circuit power to contactor when in manual operation, instead of pushing Estop switch.

    CR.

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    Default SECOND CONTROL-RELAYS TEST

    The motor-control relay powers the motor directly. The Flood-control relay powers an electrical outlet. I don't have FC connected yet, but I can plug a drill into the outlet and the noise of that will simulate flood control.

    Let's try that relay test, substituting a grounded wire for the G540, again:





    Relays test successfully! The new switch has done the job and the relays work as they are supposed to.

    CR.

    Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 07-28-2010 at 09:31 AM.
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    looking good. I'm excited to see what you have planned for a coolant system. keep it up!
    --Will



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    Quote Originally Posted by will gilmore View Post
    looking good. I'm excited to see what you have planned for a coolant system. keep it up!
    --Will
    Thanks Will! I'm excited too. It should be fantastic!

    CR.

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    Default UPDATE, BUILD LOG REDUX

    I have made some retroactive changes:

    1. The quad-vaned disk


    that I had used for thread indexing is apparently no longer supported in Mach3--Now only either evenly sized slots or single slot/vane disks can be used. There is confusion about whether multiple vanes will work. Just to be sure, I have cut off all but one of the sensor disk vanes, because single vane is DEFINITELY supported.


    2. I have added a strain relief to PSU cord:


    3. Previously I stated that the half-nut lever


    had to be slightly loosened to allow good Z movement. In actuality, the lever can be locked down tightly as it should be. The problem was caused by too-tight Gib adjustment and the Z screw wasn't all the way to the right, which caused some binding.

    4. The original computer that I bought for this lathe has died:


    First problem I have ever had with a TD computer. Probably my fault, since Tiger Direct specified that it was for horizontal use only. They will fix it under warranty, but I need a vertical computer for this application. I'll use it somewhere, just not for this lathe. Here's what I'm replacing it with:
    http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...467&CatId=5139

    I have had a similar one, a 2.4 GHZ GX260, on another application for awhile. It reliably runs Mach3 at 75K with never a problem and comes with an old-fashioned roller-mouse, which works better on the lathe mouse-table. The Optiplexes are built like tanks! In comparison, the present computer seems like tin. I'm going to stick with Optiplex from now on.

    CR.

    Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 07-30-2010 at 08:03 PM. Reason: ADD PIC
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    Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 07-29-2010 at 07:31 PM.
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    Default NEW COMPUTER HAS ARRIVED

    Shipped from Illinois, same day as ordered, by Tiger Direct. Two days or less later for UPS ground delivery in continental US. PDQ!:


    Packaged extremely well, as usual:


    Now installed into it's niche:


    This one came with Windows XP already aboard, so just have to install Mach3 and it's ready to go.

    CR.

    Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 07-30-2010 at 09:07 AM.
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