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Thread: G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION

  1. #41
    Registered Crevice Reamer's Avatar
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    I intend for this mount to be only temporary, and so have left it in a raw state. It occurs to me though, that some of you might want a more attractive end result--Even for Stage One. If there is enough interest, I will finish this Stage one Z mount out and post pics.

    Would anybody like to see that?

    CR.

    http://crevicereamer.com
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  2. #42
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    I wanted to use the existing Lathe Estop position for the G540 electronics also,



    but it is a Single Pole Single Throw Normally Closed switch. There are no contacts to connect the G540 Estop through. This would require a Double Pole Single Throw switch, but DPST NC switches are expensive and hard-to-find. Sure, I could use a relay, but that introduces a level of complexity and possible failure. IMO, an Estop needs to be simple and failsafe.

    Fortunately, the normal $10 Estop switch that Keling sells has removable NC and NO contact modules:


    It would be nice to be able to just buy an extra NC module, but I couldn't find any. Probably only for sale by the thousands anyway.

    By combining the two Keling switches that I already have, a DPST switch can be made:

    1) Carefully pry up the retaining clips and wiggle/slide off the green NO module:




    2) Now do the same to the donor switch, only removing the red NC module.

    3) Slightly trim the short dovetail on the red module so it will fit together with the other red one. Here illustrated on a green module:


    4) Now slide the donor red module into the slots of the newly configured switch and snap them together:


    Voila! a successful module transplant and a DPST Estop switch for cheap. Sponge please nurse:


    5) Unplug the lathe, unscrew the front panel and turn the existing Estop knob counterclockwise until it clicks free. Remove existing Estop switch:



    6) Extend it to the left, loosen terminal screws and slide off wiring (They are slotted terminals):


    7) Install wiring onto new DPST Estop switch. It doesn't matter which wire goes where, as long as both wires are on just one module. I used the side closest to start switch:


    8) Unscrew knob from new switch. (counterclockwise)

    9) Unscrew chrome nut.

    10) Install new switch thru hole from inside.

    11) Attach chrome nut.

    12) Screw mushroom knob back onto switch.

    That's it boys and girls. There is now a red module just waiting for the Estop wire from G540 and then to PSU ground:



    Waste not want not: The perfectly good old lathe Estop switch will now serve on another project--taking the place of the donor Keling switch.

    And I now have a DPST NO Estop switch good for something if I can ever think of a use for it.

    CR.

    Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 06-20-2010 at 11:34 AM.
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  3. #43
    Registered Teyber12's Avatar
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    I would love to see pics of the finished z mount. Would be cool to see you CNC something on the sx3 gold plating never hurt anyone! i kid. but the more pics you post the merrier



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    Quote Originally Posted by Teyber12 View Post
    I would love to see pics of the finished z mount.
    OK. Here you go:







    A little paint can go a long way. Next a motor cover.

    CR.

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    Who can guess how I made this motor cover?



    CR.

    http://crevicereamer.com
    Too many PMs. Email me to my name plus At A O L dot com.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Crevice Reamer View Post
    Who can guess how I made this motor cover?


    CR.
    Looks like some sort of leather seat covering stretched over it.

    Last edited by Magnum164; 06-21-2010 at 10:02 PM. Reason: removed picture from reply


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    Quote Originally Posted by Magnum164 View Post
    Looks like some sort of leather seat covering stretched over it.
    Good guess, but nope, that's not how. No leather, no cloth.

    Guess again.

    CR.

    http://crevicereamer.com
    Too many PMs. Email me to my name plus At A O L dot com.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Crevice Reamer View Post
    Good guess, but nope, that's not how. No leather, no cloth.

    Guess again.

    CR.
    Haha.. Very large heat shrink

    But final guess is it must be vinyl covering.....

    Last edited by Magnum164; 06-21-2010 at 10:51 PM.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Magnum164 View Post
    Haha.. Very large heat shrink

    But final guess is it must be vinyl covering.....
    Ha! Ha! I actually HAVE some heat shrink big enough, but the stuff is so powerful it would probably crush the motor when shrunk.

    Nope! not Vinyl.

    CR.

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    OK, here's a hint: The motor cover is NOT soft. It is actually quite sturdy:



    UPDATE: Made the spindle sensor vane disk:



    CR.

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    Well actually appears to be plastic. I could see using some air induction from a truck intake or something (yea, I use car parts for most stuff). But just hard to tell from the pics.



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    we give up, what is it?



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    Quote Originally Posted by Magnum164 View Post
    Well actually appears to be plastic. I could see using some air induction from a truck intake or something (yea, I use car parts for most stuff). But just hard to tell from the pics.
    Correct! It IS plastic. I cut this out with a razor blade. But what did I cut it out from?



    Quote Originally Posted by Teyber12 View Post
    we give up, what is it?
    Don't give up so soon. You KNOW this. I'm sure you have seen it. It's a very common item in many homes.

    CR.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Crevice Reamer View Post

    Don't give up so soon. You KNOW this. I'm sure you have seen it. It's a very common item in many homes.

    CR.
    coke (or pop) bottle.



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    Quote Originally Posted by Magnum164 View Post
    coke (or pop) bottle.
    No, but that's not a bad idea.



    CR.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Crevice Reamer View Post
    No, but that's not a bad idea.


    CR.

    ok the only thing I can think of with that bottom and shape is a 1/2 gallon milk carton.

    Final Answer...



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    Both right and wrong. I use the 1/2 gal size for N34 motors. For N23s the 1 quart size works best. Drink the milk, save the carton, apply razor blade and Shazam--a free, easy-to-make motor cover.

    You would have guessed it right away, had I shown you the part that was cut off:



    Congratulations Magnum! You may borrow the Ferrari, as long as Zeus and Appolo go with.

    Good tenacity. Well done!

    CR.

    Last edited by Crevice Reamer; 06-23-2010 at 07:59 AM.
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    I made the vanes on the sensor disk too high. The magnet in the sensor could actually bend them slightly:


    Can't risk a vane striking the sensor at 2000 RPM. Trimmed back the vanes by 1/8 inch each:


    CR.

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    Preparing to install G540 wiring:


    CR.

    http://crevicereamer.com
    Too many PMs. Email me to my name plus At A O L dot com.


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    Default SPINDLE SENSOR SWING-ARM MOUNT

    I'm going to mount the spindle threading sensor on a swing-arm above the sensor vane.

    These pulley-plate screws are convenient for use:


    But the screws are a little short. That is an original screw on the left. The screws that mount the follow rest (on the right) are just the right size though:


    I will use those now and replace them later.

    I cut the swing-arm to size on my 10 inch table saw, with a carbide-tipped blade:




    Now it's ready for drilling and tapping.

    CR.

    http://crevicereamer.com
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