G0602 10x22 LATHE 3 STEP CNC CONVERSION

[Crevice Reamer]

Looks GREAT! I've had my G0602 on cnc for almost 2 years now, it's a wonderful machine. I'm using 5/8" ballscrews and roton nuts and I get 100ipm on the Z and 140ish on the X, that's at 50v. Any faster and it can stall doing some hard operations. I mounted the X ballscrew directly underneath the cross slide and bolted the roton underneath in the front by milling out a pocket and drilling two holes.

I've got 425oz motors on both and I still stall the Z sometimes when drilling, if the bit is dull or I get the speed/feed wrong. Otherwise it's a brute. I am quickly growing out of the 1hp spindle though, at 2400rpm where I usually run it for AL I can get it to stall. (though that's taking a 0.375" dia DOC when boring at 0.75ipm with coolant, asking a bit much? haha). 2-3hp with VFD would be my next step, do you know if I can still run something like that on 110v?

You're going to want a splash shield above the lathe otherwise coolant will fling EVERYWHERE. I made mine on a hinge with a spring, it covers the top and front, letting the coolant drip down the front or down the stock splashpan, and it goes about halfway down the bed which is enough. I'd like to build a table like yours with a full enclosure and a much deeper chip tray.

I set up X and Z limits but never use them. Z limit is almost pointless because different tools are closer or farther from danger so you'd have to change it with every tool change, so I unplugged mine and just "try" to code wisely. X limit also never touches, but my microswitch is in a perfect place where I rest my hands, so I use it as an estop while I'm watching the machine work.

Last year I bought a used Valenite centerdex boring bar on ebay for ~$60, what an incredible investment! I have to do a lot of boring in aluminum, like 2" dia holes 1" deep, this tool is amazing. 1" dia, 3/4" shank, no centerdrilling or predrilling required, just plow it in. Next to the centerdex my other favorite tool is a 35° right turning tool. And if you cut a lot of aluminum then definitely get some "for aluminum" inserts like the ones that I use from KBCtools.com (pg 251), good price and they leave a glass smooth surface finish which completely pwns other inserts.

I never really get a chance to talk about my cnc tools so sorry if I'm gushing, haven't had time to set up a build thread or anything. Ohh I did figure out a way to wire the spindle contactor so that Mach3 can rotate it clockwise or counterclockwise using two outputs, that took a good day of fooling around to understand. It's great because it lets me do my boring with M3, stop the spindle, turn it backwards with M4 and do OD machining on the back of the part using X-3.00 type numbers. That gets one entire side of an part done with one tool. Fun stuff.

My backlash with the ballscrews is under 0.002 for both, and that's with stock balls. I think even just 0.125" balls would make it a bit tighter without going too tight, maybe one day.

Great build and keep having fun with it, can't wait to see some completed parts!

John

Thanks John! Wow! You packed lots of good info into a short post. Gush all you want. I have seen your build somewhere--Nice Work!

Splash shield is coming up. I COULD add another relay for reverse, but will probably save that for the future SX3 BLDC motor exchange.

CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

I find that there are times when it is needful to disconnect AC power to the PSU. I CAN do that by unplugging it but:


It would be SO much easier, and less wear-and-tear to have a dedicated switch, so let's add this one:




The switch and outlet have their neutrals tied together by this little brass strip:


We want them separate, so that strip must be wiggled until it breaks off:




Next, we tie the OUTPUT of the switch to the INPUT of the outlet. The two terminals are always a different color. Here, the inputs are brass or silver and the neutral outputs are black. A wire from switch black output terminal to outlet silver input terminal does the job:


Now we wire the black hot wire to the brass switch input, and the white neutral wire to the black outlet neutral. The ground wire goes to the remaining green terminal.

Put it all back together and voila! A flip of the switch to the right will turn on the PSU:


CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

This coolant delivery/return system is basically copied from Hoss's excellent X2 Freak design:
http://hossmachine.info/projects_8.html#flood coolant

Thanks Hoss!

Let's build it. First the pump is installed into sump:


A hole is cut into sump top to allow passage of hose/power cord:




The filter basket fits on top of sump and under the basin drain:


The filter-basket drain hole is cut into the sump top:


A hole is cut into the botom of filter basket and a couple of gaskets made for filter drain:


Drain installed into filter basket:


A hole for basin drain tube is cut into filter-basket top:


Tilting filter basket allows basin drain to enter filter hole:




As filter is lowered, filter drain enters hole in sump top:




completed sump/filter assembly waiting for filter material and coolant:


CR.

[cornbinder23]

Great build CR looking good and updates are keeping me from getting any work done at "work" lol

QQ, will the upper filter box allow for all of the coolant to drain back?
It looks as if there will always be a stand of water untill it reaches the drain holes drilled into the female adapter.

I just finished my coolant set-up and will try to post pics tonight in my build thread lets just say my pump might be on the WAAAYYYY too much side
2500gph but I put in a return line for it so hopefully no worries

JT

[Crevice Reamer]

Great build CR looking good and updates are keeping me from getting any work done at "work" lol

Thanks JT!

QQ, will the upper filter box allow for all of the coolant to drain back?
It looks as if there will always be a stand of water untill it reaches the drain holes drilled into the female adapter.

NO! All of the water won't drain back. The idea is to trap any fines that get through the filter by both sedimentation and having to pass through the filter again to drain.

There will also be some coolant trapped in the spin/fines filter.

I just finished my coolant set-up and will try to post pics tonight in my build thread lets just say my pump might be on the WAAAYYYY too much side
2500gph but I put in a return line for it so hopefully no worries. JT

Wow! That's a lot of pump! I'm only using a 900Gph pump. By return line, I assume you mean a diverter valve to allow pressure release and not burn out the pump.

CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

First, the sump floor needed finishing:


Now let's put the filter together:

This ring will hold up the bottom of the drain filter:




Drain filter is installed over drain:


Then folded over top of drain:


These standoff/diverters were cut from bottom of gallon water jugs. They will slow the flow of coolant and direct it away from the drain, which will help heavier fines settle to bottom:


And are installed like this:


The main filter is installed over diverters:


The chip basket:


Chip basket filter:


Main splash filter:


Assembled filter:




Ready for coolant:




CR.

[The Aspirator]

That's a very elegant/complicated sump! Love it. Mine is just a tube welded to the base of the stock drip tray, through my table down a hose into a 5 gal bucket. There are two filters, one is just an aluminum cork for the hole in the drip tray with a bunch of 1/8" holes drilled in it, the other is a scotch brite pad right before the tank.

My pump is also 900gph and it's awesome, perfect size. I've got a ball valve so I can regulate flow and I usually keep it turned down pretty far. You need a pump at least 500+gph to be able to pump the fluid from the ground up to the top of the table.

[Garland]

subscribed!

[Crevice Reamer]

First we clean thoroughly with WD40, and finish with alcohol:




After drying, Silicone seal is used to caulk the cracks:






Using the same Silicone Seal, Diverter shield is glued on:


This must now dry for 2 days before getting wet.

CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

I feel the need to protect this high-Voltage area from coolant:


The shield is cut and formed from thin sheet metal, with edges folded over for safety and rigidity:


Next step is drilling/tapping mount holes into headstock and securing with flathead screws--which I will buy today.

It should do the protection job nicely while allowing easy access to controls:


CR.

[Magnum164]

So what is the purpose of disconnecting from the PSU..? If it is for lightning protection I have found there is no true protection, other than no connection. Which means unplugging from the wall..

[Crevice Reamer]

So what is the purpose of disconnecting from the PSU..? If it is for lightning protection I have found there is no true protection, other than no connection. Which means unplugging from the wall..

In theory--Short of unplugging from wall, the best Lightning protection is a tight knot in end of main power cord. The idea is that extreme surge through knot will burn out wires in cord first, thus protecting equipment.

This method was invented and tested by Jerry Pournell back in the eighties, when he was experiencing many computer destroying lightning surges. I have not had it put to the test yet, but believe him, so always tie a knot in ends of cords.

No, the switch is not for lightning. I just like to be able to easily disable the drive electronics sometimes. I could do it by unplugging, but that introduces wear and strain on connections. I'm quite pleased with the switch. I want to install one for the flood-pump too, but need to find a switch/GFCI combo that doesn't cost $25. The new tamper-proof electrics have seriously jacked up the prices.

CR.

[Magnum164]

In theory--Short of unplugging from wall, the best Lightning protection is a tight knot in end of main power cord. The idea is that extreme surge through knot will burn out wires in cord first, thus protecting equipment.

Actually it goes to the theory as well that lightning can not make turns, so a coiled wire is generally what I use in my ham shack equipment. But be careful, to tight of a knot or coil can generate a higher heat in that area under high loads and can actually start a fire..... another lesson learned

[Crevice Reamer]

Roger that!

CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

This screw sticks out too much and will interfere with installation of coolant splash shield, so has to be replaced:


It turns out that the screw hole is not tapped all the way through. Cheap HF tap set to the rescue:


The new screw sits lower, but I'm looking for an even flatter solution:



CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

Apparently, Silicone Seal has an "Instant rusting" effect on machine ways:


Not quite sure what to do about this. I suppose cleaning out the rust and SS, painting the ways at that point with Rustoleum, and reappying SS is one way to go.

CR.

[RotarySMP]

Normal silicone releases acetic acid during curing. No wonder it caused rust. Won't really matter in that location, other than optically.

[Crevice Reamer]

Twenty to one coolant/distilled water ratio ready for mixing:


32 ounces of Synkool to 5 gallons of distilled water.

CR.

[cornbinder23]

Normal silicone releases acetic acid during curing. No wonder it caused rust. Won't really matter in that location, other than optically.

You can use O2 sensor safe rtv and it wont have that effect on the metal
I use it all the time seasling up aluminum nitro engines with no ill effects to any of the parts ferrous or non ferrous

JT

[Crevice Reamer]

NOW you guys tell me these things?

Flexible silicone seal around the cracks of the headstock/ways should seal out the drips though.

A heads up would have been nice back on 7/11.

CR.