The best manner in which to fiberglass-reinforce ABS, Styrene, etc. is to
first sand the "back side", and then to utilize a urethane resin to layup the
glass. Ensure that you do the *entire* piece- otherwise, I have found that
often enough the fiberglass "part" will pop off. Don't be discouraged if it
A easy tip / trick I've learned also, is to overlap the edges *slightly* with
the resin- not the glass matting. It seems to help prevent the part popping
off a little more often.
These techniques are often used in hot tubs, bathtubs, etc. for added
An excellent primer is made by dupont for plastics- although now you can
buy much lower cost plastic "spray paints" that work fairly well, as well as
rustoleum's plastic products..
For the paint itself, I stick with urethane based paints- as they seem to
grab the plastic slightly better. They do cost a bit more, but- for the added
shine, as well as durability- I think it's worth it.. That whole "Do it right one
time- as opposed to wrong several" concept. I tend to ignore most of the
latex users myself. .....
And before you start worrying- especially if you talk to the special people
in dupont's sales department.... You do NOT need a "Flexural additive" for
the urethane based paints. The urethane paints are the same ones used
on cars these days- and everyone knows you can *usually* dent a door
slightly - and pull the dent out- and keep your paint intact, if you're careful.
I use the polyurethanes - not the polyester resins. I have put a coat of
polyester resin over a fully cured polyurethane layer in the past, as a test-
without adverse results.
Priming styrene with CA glue is just overall more expensive and time
consuming than some generic polyurethane resin, 'glass, and sandpaper.
Plus the whole factor of being able to spread the resin with the right roller
quickly- and have a little more "working time" than the CA glue....
-- I love your website by the way. It has some great info.