Hey!
Very nice pictorial of your excellent work!
Here is the cross slide set-up; the Bronze handwheel was todays effort; the alumi support was also made today (tool post is beside the cross slide)
The circle you can see is the referance locator for the compound slide; it keeps it on center as you swing the compound through the arc; an 8mm screw locks the compound
Looking right down the cross slides center; the small setscrew deep down is the adjustment for backlash; there is a small teflon button under the screw; it presses the leadscrew into the nut to reduce the backlash; the other 2 cap head screws hold the nut under for the leadscrew
Compound slide being attached; the 6mm allen key is in the locking 8mm caphead
Here is a bottom shot of the compound; the locating ring can be seen; the 2 small holes in the alumi handle extention are for gaining access to the locking 6x32 setscrews that lock the handwheel and the leadscrew adjuster
The compound on the cross slide; the allen key has locked the compound at an angle to show how tapers can be cut; the bronze insert in the middle is the nut for the 1/4"x20 leadscrew (0.05"/rev)
The final normal setting for the compound slide; the access hole for the taper setting is now closed as it's quite far ahead of this position; also helps to keep crap out of the allen head; tool post is on; the round guide bars for the main way are visible too; these are Thompson shafting; held with 4mm capheads into a CNC machined 90dgr each side of the main bed; these are accurate to within 0.001
Shot of the collet set-up; also in the shot is the main leadscrew bearing (just under the collet chuck) this will support the 7/16"x20 (0.05/rev) leadscrew
The collet chuck still need 2 holes drilled into it for tightening; the adjusters for the main carrage can be seen too with locking nuts; these again like the leadscrews have teflon buttons to help maintain accuracy; the cross slide has smaller set screws for the same reason (2 small holes just above the main section of the carrage)
Drive end of the spindle; the 1.125 dia is threaded ready to hold the 8 step pulley; the main bearing can be seen; another is right behind the collet chuck; the spindle can take 0.650" through; the run out is 0.0004" at this time; once the drive is complete I'll grind it totally true with a pencil grinder in the tool post
I'm also going to add chinese scales and make the ShumaTech DRO; there will be a tail stock added and a 90dgr block to make the compound into a vertical slide; the tool post will be removed and a small vice added to hold small parts
Top speed wil be over 12,000 and lowest speed will be just over 1400 with 8 steps
One day (after my NC mill) I'll CNC it
I should add; the project was designed in SurfCam 2001; the machines used to make the parts were a Supermax 56 and a Fanuc wire
I don't work at that place anymore (projects like this are not allowed; and I had to hide it all the time); my new place the boss says "hey just build whatever you want" (in my time) The Mill project is coming nicely in SurfCam 2002 and I'll post a photo of the shaded surfaces soon
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Last edited by Stevie; 02-15-2004 at 01:39 PM.
Hey!
Very nice pictorial of your excellent work!
Very nice pictorial of your excellent work!
Bloy2004 does some really nice work and knows what nice work is, so that is a nice compliment to which I fully agree.
Nice work on the knurling, speaking of which I will post a question on in the correct forum.
Ken
Wow I must say that I'm very impressed. Its nice to work in a shop that will let you do your own projects in your spare time. Keep up the good work and post us on future progress.
Carl
It really is Superb workmanship and plan. Great pictorial representation to boot. Talent is easy to recognized in the work it does and as a novice I can see it here.
Stevie,
The round ways are interesting, did you build the ways or is it a part of an existing machine?
Phil, Still too many interests, too many projects, and not enough time!!!!!!!!
Vist my websites - http://pminmo.com & http://millpcbs.com
Hi Guys; thanks for the kind words (although some of the parts I'm "Embarrassed" about; could have made them better; I rushed them to get them out of sight again)
pminmo: no it's not part of anything else; I designed it to be that way; the cuts are 0.250" X 0.250" the round stock is 0.500" the Supermax cut the rabbits and I simply screwed the stock in place (quick way to make ways)
The Saddle is wire CNC EDM'ed to match the centers; 4 adjustment screws with the teflon buttons to keep it all nice and tight (tool makers love tight things ;-) )
Ken; the knurl is one of the things i could have done better; the cross slide one was tough as the stock I used only just made the part; I had nothing to hold on; the knurl puts soo much pressure on the bronze it was almost coming out of the 3 jaw (it was a scrap piece I used)
The mill project will be much better as now there will be no pressure to hide it; I've got it 50% designed; I have designed some parts a little different just like the Lathe project; after more than 35years in a trade you do learn something; and I'm almost to that age when stuff starts to fade from memory; the changes are to the head slide/motor area; I think it will be interesting to some
The lathe will be fully digital; I was going to go the chinese scale route; but after finding the linear optical encoder strips by US Digital I'll simply make my own fully enclosed DRO/slides using extruded alumi; plus the compound is only 2 1/2" of travel; so the optical route is much better
On another note for the lathe project; before i do go the whole hog CNC way; I'd like to try to make it stepper powered for the ways; but have it use a manual jog; is there a way to move the steppers with a jog dial; and have multiple resolutions by using a selector switch working in tandem with the jog dial; I'd love to have 0.1-0.010-0.001-0.0001" switchable and have the jog dial marked accordingly; even better would be 2 full sep jog dials (saddle and cross slide) the saddle could be swichable to the compound stepper
So has anyone tried this on a small scale; the full sized Supermax had the exact same setup for manual milling and for zero pick-up
For those interested in the CNC mill project; the travels will be 10" Z 10" Y and 26 or 28" X not exactly small; but still benchtop; I want it big enough for several projects i have in mind; one is a super small fully CNC mill using #17 sized steppers with 2X2X4" travels and a spindle speed of 100,000 rpm
Interesting,one is a super small fully CNC mill using #17 sized steppers with 2X2X4" travels and a spindle speed of 100,000 rpm
What will you use it for? Or just a show peice?
I like your lathe so far. Tool and Die makers always impress me because they are very fussy by nature, so the work they do is always impressive.
E
I wish it wouldn't crash.
actually the size would be ok for quite a few projects; you could even make a small RC aircraft engine with that size; granted a lathe would also be needed; but imagine the carbs and stuff it would make
Small engravings was my first thoughts on it; plus the "wow" that really works factor
I guess after seeing the 4mm ball screws you can get; my mind started to grind
As my regular job is not really Tool and Die anymore (just regular old General Machine work) I need to keep my hand in with design and toolpaths
I was working on a 12ft long stellite coated auger shaft this week; the flights and some of the working areas of shaft got re-welded up and needed to be re-machined to size 5.250" dia; with 0.125"/side stellite; needed a 63 finish (tough to get) I used a Makita hand belt sander 1"x30" to get the final finish; worked really good too; run the lathe in reverse (80rpm) and sand with Alumi oxide belts; don't go below 120grit and the stellite will spring to life
The Mill project will be all steel for the main frames of the machine; most likely 1/4 plate mig welded and stress releaved (over-night soak)
Another thought on the lathe; I'll be adding drilled holes with a div head; every 10dgr around the rear part of the collet chuck; with a indent shaft i can then lock the spindle ever 10dgr; I also bilt a small 2 way slide to mount above the spindle; this has a 30,000rpm air powered 1/4" spindle; with this i can machine stuff like hex's while the part is still on center; I have some 25mm anti-aircraft guns to make in 1/48th scale and the muzzle has 6 flash ports; I'll have to use a 0.01"ball mill to make them
Last edited by Stevie; 02-16-2004 at 07:47 PM.
I'm almost to that age when stuff starts to fade from memory
I knew we had something in common
I got a feeling this is going to be a great thread.
Don't quit on us now Stevie.
Ken
Ken; this July 22nd I'll be 51
Started my apprenticeship in England when I was 15; got payed 5 pounds a week; thats about 25cents/hour; and still managed to get blind drunk every Thursday and Friday night (hehehe)
blind drunk every Thursday and Friday night
LOL,
And I bet every Saturday morning you said "I am never going to do that again" Right?
pretty much
I have not got drunk since i moved to Canada in 1980 (well maybe a few times) I find it's just not worth it
I can think of worse places to get drunk than England... love those ales and bitters. A meal in a mug, like a liquid pork chop.
Mice work on the lathe. I also like your concept of a nano-mill. It would actually be perfect for jewelers who mill precious metals directly, or design a wax for a mold.
nano-mill spindle, a dental handpiece perhaps?
Swede
"Mice work on the lathe..." haha obviously I meant "Nice". One thing I forgot to mention, for knurling like yours, if you can find a "Quick" brand coin knurler, it makes exquisite instrument type knurls by cutting rather than cold forming. They are expensive but can occasionally be found used/surplus and bought for a song from someone who doesn't know what he has.
Good news on the spindle run out front
I made a small tool post grinder and re-cut the spindle taper for the collets
I used a block of 7075 T6 Aluminum and fitted into it the NSK pencil grinder; by holding 1 collet on a mandrel and the other end of the mandrel in the spindle I was able to accurately dial in the exact taper with the compound slide
Then with the pencil grinder going at 60,000rpm I could re-cut the inner taper with the lathe turning (took 5 cuts of about 0.0001 to make it run perfect)
Next project: I'm going to make the lathe CNC controlled; I've ordered a 2 axis PCB board (kit) for stepper motors; with a PC power supply and a breakout board (kit) to connect the 2 axis to a PC via the LPT1 port
I have 6 NEMA17 (35oz/inch approx) sized steppers already; however I think NEMA 23 (100oz/inch) sized will be needed to make it really sing
With this set-up I can make brass or aluminum AA barrels for my scale warship project to my hearts content
I forgot to add why I've had a change of mind and I am CNC'ing it now; well I figured out how to change it to both; the 7/16" 20 leadscrew for the X axis is still very long; I can fit both a 14 XL groove timing belt pulley and a handwheel; thus a stepper can be outboard of the leadscrew and I can still just manually use the lathe; the cross slide set-up is just a bit harder to change; look at the last but 1 of the pics; the bronze nut/bearing on the cross slide leadscrew; I'll swap this for an extended version; it will still control the leadscrew playbut will extend out and be bored to fit the stepper shaft; a simple support can come off the center 2 wear adjusters on the saddle; this the stepper motor can be screwed to
If I make a few small changes to the compound slide I can even make it stepper powered; then when it's mounted on the 90dgr block and the cutter is in the spindle collet; I can use it like a 3 axis mini mill
First cut tonight with the lathe; thats a P/Bronze scrap I brought home from work today 5/8" dia
I was just looking to chk the stability of the spindle bearings and the ability to take a good cut; this puppy can really cut; up against the collet (you can see the 90dgr cut) it's almost 3/16"/side and no chatter; wow; then I went for finish cuts in steps with a taper; it worked way better than I thought it would I'm on the slowest speed 1800rpm
I'm still just locking the saddle and using the compound for X axis
I'm going full speed now to CNC it for sure; it will be a great non-ferris lathe (if I use a slower motor I could cut steel)
The tool post grinder I just made is right behind the lathe (excuse the feelers for shims under the tool; I need 0.03" for a 1/4" tool)
The V belt drive can be seen; the motor is under the benchtop and on vertical slides for belt tension (it's own weight)
I need way covers for sure; I'll make them from brass shimstock I made a tiny bending brake some time ago (5" max width 0.02" capacity)
What do you guys think; will Nema 17 steppers drive this; or should I go right to 23's ???
What kind, size, and how many bearings are used in the headstock? Does the saddle ride on linear bearings or wear pads? Igus has a new design similar to your main way. Drylin W series I think. Very nice work!
Stop talking about it and do it already!!!!!
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
The head has 2 6006 SKF Precision-Plus Steel Ball Bearings
you can get them from a bearing supplier or McMaster-Carr page 1015
I made the pulley retaining nut to encompass the job of tensioning the bearings (pre-load)
The head is 6061 T6
Now about the ways; the main bed was CNC machined to + - 0.0005 in all directions; then 2 Thompson 1/2" shafts were screwed down into the 2 1/4X1/4 rabbits (for use of a woodworking term)
The saddle was wire EDM'ed to mate with the 2 round bars with a min clearance; the saddle is made from 7075 T6 same as the bed (in fact for now the cross slide nut is also 7075 T6; with a teflon button for backlash comp)
There are no bearings as such in the set-up; the thompson is very smooth and the wire cut is smooth but with the tiny surface imperfections 1 pass leaves; this is what I wanted; the tiny pits hold my way oil; the screws holding the thompsons also hold a bit of oil that the saddle can pick up; it all seems to work real nice
The way adjusters for the saddle can be seen in the next to the last pic on page 1; again under each 4mm setscrew is a teflon button (I made a small core drill to make them; 1/8" dia x 3/16th long)
So I guess to answer your question there are no linear bearings in the lathe; just round ways for the saddle and dovetails for the other 2 (all dovetails were wire EDM'ed with 0.0005 clearance)
*edit edit* I should also add; the tool post will not be staying; I'll machine up a length of steel with the same shape as the interchangeable tool post holders like can be found in tool suppliers; then I'll cut off as many as possible and make 5 or 6 holders; the holders will be matched to a new post with height adjustment; if I'm going to CNC this I'll need repeatablity in the tool set-ups