Wholesale Tool 3n1 CNC Conversion (56k warning!)

[3space]

Just found this thread, and looked through every post. Amazing job on this, holy smokes!!!

[FannBlade]

Poor cammy we knew him well. My condolences!
pictures still look good though.

LOL. cammy was an old fart his time was well served.

Aw gee that sucks, don't you hate when that happens....on the bright side though you don't have to worry about your wrists getting tired when typing with your new keyboard location

That is true it was an awkward angle for sure.

Just found this thread, and looked through every post. Amazing job on this, holy smokes!!!

Thanks and welcome to CNC Zone.

[Starleper1]

Somehow I missed this thread. Nice work. I don't think I've seen an artistic paint scheme tied into machine build yet.

[FannBlade]

Somehow I missed this thread. Nice work. I don't think I've seen an artistic paint scheme tied into machine build yet.

Thanks. Time and paint was in stock so seemed like good idea...at the time. I knew I was really pushing paint schedule and should have done a little more in depth mockup.

I will post some more pics Tuesday when my new camera gets here.

On a dark note my Dad was recently diagnosed with lung cancer and goes in Monday to have 2/3's of his right lung removed. So build may be on hold depending on his recovery rate.

Here are couple pics after painting control box. I just hit it with some spray paint to speed things up. I had a small job come up that I said I would do. Man was it hard to figure out using only one axis!

That is why you see mill back in original location. Did I mention I hate this mill unit!!!

In the first pic you can get an idea of how big a vise I need to make the mill useable. Second pic is a PC water cooled reservoir the guy wanted simplified.
For the oval hole I use a fly cutter and the one axis I had visions of a horrid crash, but actually went really smooth. Man was is rattling, chattering and groaning hole size is 2 1/4". Now I have to figure out how to put a 45 degree bevel on inside of the hole. Think I will go old school and try a router bit....wish me luck!

Edit: I also ordered one of these till I can find a pendant I like.

[Mad Welder]

Aw man I'm really sorry to hear about your dad, best wishes and prayers to help speed his recovery...

[smallblock]

That is why you see mill back in original location. Did I mention I hate this mill unit!!!

In the first pic you can get an idea of how big a vise I need to make the mill useable.

Vader,
For the mill solution, go over to the Shoptask users group on Delphi forums-
Also look at the HISTORY section on the Shoptask website SHOPMASTER USA | CNC Machine and Tooling
Look at the bridgemill machine. That was the solution they came up with for the milling on those old style machines. Somewhere in those delphi forums there were a couple of guys who built their own version of that quadra lift design and posted pics and materials list. I think if you put that upgrade on your machine, you will be shocked at what a good mill you will have.

[FannBlade]

Aw man I'm really sorry to hear about your dad, best wishes and prayers to help speed his recovery...

Thanks MadWelder I appreciate that.

Vader,
For the mill solution, go over to the Shoptask users group on Delphi forums-
Also look at the HISTORY section on the Shoptask website SHOPMASTER USA | CNC Machine and Tooling
Look at the bridgemill machine. That was the solution they came up with for the milling on those old style machines. Somewhere in those delphi forums there were a couple of guys who built their own version of that quadra lift design and posted pics and materials list. I think if you put that upgrade on your machine, you will be shocked at what a good mill you will have.

I will check that out. I have seen the bridge mills and always wondered if that would help. I think most of the problem is the rattling from the pulley the splined shaft goes through and possible the bearings. It could definitely use more support for sure.

[FannBlade]

My huge Tormach upgrade. Saw this on a post in the Tormach section that they were on clearance.. for $6.50 thought I better jump on one till I decied on a pendant.




Ahawww doesn't that look better? Chips everywhere.


my funky quick mount. Top spacer is just wedged in place.


In it's new location.




I think this is what I will work on towmorrow....wiring!

Please note this is not up to Code. LOL But she runs!


Some more UL listed wiring.




On a more serious note this is where I have a problem. The pulley fit here is really loose and causes quite a rattling noise that I'm sure is causing some of my finish issues. Not to mention it's "annoyingly" noisy.

Any ideas on how to correct this problem?


Playing with new camera.


Shot down the lead screw bearings.

[Alleykat]

Just read your thread from start till now,great progress.

I like your CNC definition in your signature.

[FannBlade]

Just read your thread from start till now,great progress.

I like your CNC definition in your signature.

Thanks

Little update: Worked on electrical and front panel for last day and half and this is all I got done.
Got the fan controller ,USB hub and DRO's mounted.
While digging through a box while cleaning I forgot I bought 3 DRO's for this build, not sure I will need them anymore but might as well use them.


YEP moved the VFD again. It was really hard to connect wiring on the bottom plus I read in another post VFD's put out a lot of electrical noise and I need more room for larger BOB and drivers. I will have to make yet another back plate to fill in notched out area.


Finally got the 220 and 110 lines runs. Wire on both is 12 gauge armored.
220 is run on double pole 15 amp.
110 is run on singe pole 20 amp.

Next day or so I will put in a separate ground rod off my panel here in the garage, not sure it's needed but will make me feel better since the run back to the house is 125'.


In all it's glory!


Here is the new VFD location and you can see how I mounted the powered USB hub.
Also hoping that will help with any interference on the wireless keyboard by using the USB reciever up front instead on behind the PC.


My wiring nightmare.

[Mad Welder]

Very, very nice...I like the control panel...and those three seperate axis DRO's...very good back up to Machs DRO and will make using the automatic steps per inch calculation within Machs Settings window very easy too

[FannBlade]

That is true.
I did the calibration today to see how it worked. I was getting 0 on my dial indicator cycling 3" and .100 I was really happy with that. Took 5-6 "adjustments" getting better each try. Way easier than getting out the calculator and punching in the formulas.

[Mad Welder]

.......Way easier than getting out the calculator and punching in the formulas.

curious here but why would you use a calculator?

[FannBlade]

curious here but why would you use a calculator?

To figure out steps per revolution.



Got the spindle temp display mounted again and added another e-stop. I finally hooked up the e-stop the other day after I ran into a little panic situation and hit it...boy I sure wish it would've had wires running to it then. Luckly only damage was the fixture and not the part.


New panel cut.


Got some of the wiring done last couple days. Most of the wiring needed to be extended then I sleeved everything.






Right about here I kicked on the PC to make sure everything came on....but Murphy showed up and had little tiny arc on top of the video card as luck would have it a strand of 22 quage wire about 1/2" long shorted the card.
I was planning on new MB anyway just pushed time line up a bit.


New 5v power supply for the BOB and powered USB hub on front panel. Also contactor I plan on reusing for 220v and 110v lines once I figure out how it works.

[Mad Welder]

To figure out steps per revolution.

Yeah....I forgot......too much to remember don't I feel stupid

[FannBlade]

Here is a small video so you can hear how quiet the spindle is now. Finally got set screws drilled and tapped for the pulleys. Plus with all the gears removed nothing left but the spindle shaft.
You can hear in part of the video that the screw has little bind or a bearing going out...it also reflects on the cut finish in a regular pattern.
Next step is linear rails on the cross slide and a ball screw.

"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_Z2QoHqJfg&list=HL1333337542&feature=mh_l olz"]spindle - YouTube

Also have an issue, that I knew all along, with oil leaking out of the spindle bearing caps with oil level so high.
With nothing left inside to splash the oil I'm going to install a pump with 2 lines directly above the bearing to lube bearing directly. I will also run the main line through a small radiator to help cool spindle. I hope that will allow me to bring spindle speed up to around 5000 rpm.

Electrical panel temped back together.
The PC angels came by last night and fixed my PC! I think I had something shorting out the AGP slot...removed it blew it all down and it worked.


All working.

[LUCKY13]

A ballscrew would be good for sure, IDk about leanier rails on the cross slide though. I am just thinking it may not dampen vibration as good as the dovetail setup.


I would try scraping the dovetails & building new gibs first ( and the ballscrew). Not a easy think itself but once you cut it for rails its kinda hard to backup. Rails are more for speed and with a new ballscrew you probably want really need it any faster. A lathe needs rigidity more than anything IMHO ( and accuracy).


If you do go for leanier rails be sure and get double ball curcuit heavy rails. Now there are some builds around with leanier rails that work very good, but I believe they did go overkill on size and rating.


Your machine is one of the best 3 in 1 builds I have seen, very cool machine now.


Jess

[Flateric]

Did you ever solve your loose pulley issue that you mention in post #88. I had the same issue with it and in the end corrected it by essentially affixing an aluminium block to the pulley itself with a close fitting hole. Then the alu block was slit vertically and a hex nut tightens the grip of the block against the vertical shaft.

This dramatically improved finish also and totally eliminates the play in the rotation of the shaft against the shaft.

Another benefit is it can be tightened up hard and helps the milling head have even less vertical play atleast for me when doing manual milling operations.

Hope this is clear enough for ya. And please if you have come up with a better solution please share. I have no doubt mine is not close to optimal.

[FannBlade]

A ballscrew would be good for sure, IDk about leanier rails on the cross slide though. I am just thinking it may not dampen vibration as good as the dovetail setup.


I would try scraping the dovetails & building new gibs first ( and the ballscrew). Not a easy think itself but once you cut it for rails its kinda hard to backup. Rails are more for speed and with a new ballscrew you probably want really need it any faster. A lathe needs rigidity more than anything IMHO ( and accuracy).



If you do go for leanier rails be sure and get double ball curcuit heavy rails. Now there are some builds around with leanier rails that work very good, but I believe they did go overkill on size and rating.


Your machine is one of the best 3 in 1 builds I have seen, very cool machine now.


Jess

Thanks
Interesting point. That is my biggest complaint with this machine is the VERY poor quality finish on the ways and gib adjustment is crude and ineffective. I will see if I can borrow a power scraper. Now you got me thinking I could have it ground first then scrape it. Time to call in more favors.

Did you ever solve your loose pulley issue that you mention in post #88. I had the same issue with it and in the end corrected it by essentially affixing an aluminium block to the pulley itself with a close fitting hole. Then the alu block was slit vertically and a hex nut tightens the grip of the block against the vertical shaft.

This dramatically improved finish also and totally eliminates the play in the rotation of the shaft against the shaft.

Another benefit is it can be tightened up hard and helps the milling head have even less vertical play atleast for me when doing manual milling operations.

Hope this is clear enough for ya. And please if you have come up with a better solution please share. I have no doubt mine is not close to optimal.

No I have not. How did you get the spline cut in the aluminum or did you buy it with it cut?
I think I can picture what you did with it now that I re-read it. Can you post a pic here I would love to see what you came up with.
I real close to throwing the whole thing in the trash!

[Flateric]

Actually I did not cut the spline into the hole at all and it is simply a close fitting round hole that sorta grips the shaft with varying pressure based on how tight the horizontal allen bolt is.

I'll take a picture of it later today, although mine has seen many years of use and abuse so it's nothing pretty like your incredible machine anymore.