Power Schematic for Old UHU Please Advise

[bill south]

I've completed my first control system using the old UHU controllers. I purchased completed kits from Smarbaga ages ago and just now had the time to build a new router. I'll attach a schematic which uses a bunch of pc817 opto's that I had to buy in 10's so I used most of them. I tried wiring the fault circuit without them but I could not get the e-stop circuit to work on my CNC4PC BOB. I think something is floating in the ground circuits.
Most of this circuit has been proven with the exception of the LED's which I added to the schematic today to indicate which UHU is in fault.
Please forgive the bad drawing but I used BOBcad which is definately not what the software was designed for.
Thanks for looking.
Bill

DON'T USE THIS DRAWING. IT IS NOT CORRECT! SEE THREAD BELOW FOR USABLE DRAWING.

[H.O]

Hi Bill,
First of all, you did a good job on the schematic, very nice.

I'm not sure that the indicating LEDs will work as you expect.... As soon as one drive faults it will signal an E-stop which will put the remaining two drives in fault state as well - all three LEDs will be ON.

/Henrik.

[LZ1TWB]

Nice work on the schematic, but I have a few ideas about it.

Firstly the RESET button below that drives the optos should be wired NO, so that when it is pushed the drives are reset. I don't know about the leds, but they are already on the board. If you want to see which drive faulted there should be put some sort of logic to do this.

Also the UHU does not have enable pin, rather that it has E-stop IN pin, which will not stop the drive if it is not put to +5V, it has to be driven to logic 0, to do this. There should be a wiring in the BOB so that when one drive faults the other receives its state and stops.

The 4 diodes after T1 should be rotated clockwise by 90 degrees.

With a little of modification I believe that this can be made a good reference schematic for all the new users that use to use the UHU controller.

Regards, Todor

[H.O]

Hi Todor,
As far as I can see the Reset button IS wired normally open.

I believe that connection called 5 volts out on the breakout board, feeding the 'Enable inputs' will be pulled low by logic on the board if/when the Enable signal to the board goes low, which it does when the system E-stops. Not sure on that one though.

And you're right about the rectifier ;-)

/Henrik.

[LZ1TWB]

Hi, I don't know what "standard" is used to draw the circuit but this is a NC contact in its open position, which I think is not correct. A switch is not pulled to be connected, it is pushed. The line that connect the wires should be above them. This is the same for the main power switch. Or maybe the reset and the e-stop contacts are on the same switch? This is another thing then.

I guess bill could give some info about the overall idea.

Todor

[Al_The_Man]

It looks like the main power switch should be a maintained switch of some kind, a PB is not going to be maintained, I assume the other N.C. PB is a twist lock maintained E-stop button, these will be N.C. when released, in this case it is shown right.
I would think the extra opto's a bit redundant, have you tried the LED in series with the Opto diode or even in series on the output side?
Al.

[H.O]

Todor,
You might be right about the symbol, I'm not used to this kind of symbols where a relay contact is drawn as a capacitor - that doesn't mean it's wrong though - just that I'm not used to read the thing ;-)

But, as far as I know, switches, relay contacts, buttons etc are never ever drawn in its "activated" state - they are, ALWAYS drawn in their normal "unpushed/unactivated" state and that's why I think that the Reset button is indeed a NO pushbutton.

/Henrik.

PS. Bill, I'm sorry, we're drifting a bit.... Did you have an actual problem with the circuit that you want help with or did you post it as a reference for others?

[bill south]

Thanks guys. I've redrawn the schematic and hopefully corrected the symbols to at least a usable state. Forgive my ignorance but I'm a sterilization process design engineer and my majors were micro and chem and not electronics. Guess it shows.
I'll upload a pdf of my current simplified drawing which is how my system is actually wired. Thanks to all for the input. BTW, I used three optos because I was advised to keep the components as close to each board as possible to prevent cross interference (Henrik? maybe advised this).
If there is anything wrong or you want to add or adjust, let me know and I'll email you a copy of the dwg file. Hope this helps out someone in the future.
BTW, I had doubts about the UHU drive but it seems to be performing OK so far.
Thanks again.
Bill

[H.O]

Hi Bill,
Again, you did a good job!
Using three indivudual optos for the reset-circuit is the right aproach. I believe what Al meant was being reduntant was the extra optos on the Fault-output, which it turns out you didn't use after all.

Do you have a thread about your particular project involving the UHU-drive? I'm always interested in seeing what others are doing!

/Henrik.

[Al_The_Man]

Bill, Sorry to be a bit picky, but according to the cap polarity, the diode +- polarity is backwards.
Also it is customary to draw the neutral line as a separate conductor, not show all neutral points connected to ground, although the neutral is actually at ground in the electrical panel.
Showing it this way may encourage someone to actually use the ground as a conductor.
Al.