LinkBack URL
About LinkBacks
Unfortunately Bourns lists this part as "not recommended for new designs" and I can find no distributor in the US who stocks it. The recommended replacement is useless.
Is this a reasonable replacement?
Thanks,
Keith B.
| | |
hi Paul, do show us some pictures of what you are setting up - before you fire up, I am interested in seeing what you have rigged up.
RGDS
IRfan
Unfortunately Bourns lists this part as "not recommended for new designs" and I can find no distributor in the US who stocks it. The recommended replacement is useless.
Is this a reasonable replacement?
Thanks,
Keith B.
Oops....Let's try the links again.
Bourns
href="http://www.bourns.com/pdfs/PM1608_series.pdf"
Possible substitute:
href="http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=nizYLPifhMBxxa1TM4qCHw%3d%3d"
Keith B.
No, the specs are a little more restrictive: higher Rdc, Lower Saturation current and what makes it 100% incompatible is a totally different footprint. I guess the best solution is to get the "right ones" from Paul or Irfan along with the kit.Originally Posted by kabowers
Best regards,
Kreutz.
Here's a picture taken tonight. more later, I need to lighten them.
Paul
Paul heatsinking is not enough - u need to have a fan at the bottom to cool all three drives, and I see the caps outside the PCB, I dont know if that is advised or not.
RGDS
IRfan
Hello;
Paul spoke to me about the capacitors long time ago, he doesn't have space enough in the cabinet to mount the capacitors upright on the boards, it is better to have them outside than not to have them at all. The ideal would have been to mount them from the copper side and cut a hole on the heat-sink, so they don't protrude much from the board assembly.
Your experience with the fan will help a lot, it seems that Paul has space to mount a medium sized fan, on the bottom of the cabinet, blowing vertically on all the boards at the same time.
Best regards,
Kreutz.
Hello All,
Kreutz, thanks for telling Irfan about our conversations about the caps. Irfan, I normally have a small small high speed fan pushing air through the drives, thanks for the reminder, I'll put it back in tonight. I'm going to try and send the lightened photo's, lets see what happens
Wow! that's a jungle of wire out there!
hello All,
I'm currently in the hospital so nothings happening with my mill project. my GP noticed that I was in atrial fibrillation during a routine followup. So in the following days I've had two Intracardiac Ultrasounds, a Cardiac Catheterization, several EKG's other procedures that I'm too lazy to look up the spelling on. I entered the hospital Friday afternoon & hope to go home late Monday after they do a something orther conversion to try and get my hearth back to it's normal beat.
I tried to put full 134vdc power to the X axis drive and had one strange short after another as soon as I applied the high voltage (in the proper sequense).I've started building a new drive using a new PCB to get beyong all of the scabs applied to the old board. I'm probably three hours from being done with the new board. I've removed the power dump for now. In one of the other posts I've noticed someone talking about a soft start. I'm thinking of giving that a try when next I power up the high voltage.
more as it occurres
Paul
gep thenerative
0
Paul;
Forget about the drives for a while and get better.
Your friend,
Kreutz.
Kreutz & Aill,
I'll probably work on the new drive card because this is one of the most peaceful, satisfying things I currently do. the long trip to get to this point makes actual progress feel good. Probably for the next couple of weeks I'll have
to walk around the house & down to the electronic workv area I use. I know we've talked around the subject of a soft start but my thinking is driven by the fact that starting a servo requires about 15 I'm not sure how high the current draw is when just appliying the 134vdc to a drive. I'll check the actual draw next.
Paul
Posting Permissions
| | |
