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  1. #21
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    Hi Paul,
    OK, so you've got three out of four board working? The forth one does "read" the encoder but doesn't communicate with the computer, is that correct?



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    H.O.,
    Hi, that's correct it will not talk to the PC, terminal program. I tried changing the U10, (MAX232) for a second it appeared that that was going to fix it then, I'm guessing the new MAX232 died due to a additional problem on the board.
    Paul



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    Wierd that it worked and then died on you again.... Here's a few quick things:
    • Inspect the board for solder bridges etc around U10 and U11 as well as the DSUB and USB connectors.
    • Check and make sure that the orientation of U10 and U11 is correct.
    • Check that C33, C34, C36 and C37 are mounted correctly (polarity).
    • Measure the voltage at pin2 on U10, it should be around +10V.
    • Measure the voltage at pin6 on U10, it should be around -10V.


    Oh, it's not a MAX232A you have mounted by any chance?

    /Henrik.



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    Quote Originally Posted by tenmetalman View Post
    H.O.,
    Hi, that's correct it will not talk to the PC, terminal program. I tried changing the U10, (MAX232) for a second it appeared that that was going to fix it then, I'm guessing the new MAX232 died due to a additional problem on the board.
    Paul
    Paul;

    Check also that the voltage at U10 pin 16 (VCC) vs PC_GND (J8 connector's pin3) is about 5 volts when the USB cable is connected to the PC (and the PC is ON).

    If you reset the UHU chip by shorting the RST1 pin to Ground, is there a change on the LEDs status, particularly LED Ds4?

    DS3 should be on, Ds1 should be off.
    Ds4 should come on after a short delay.

    With the encoder cable disconnected, DS1 should be ON.

    If this does not happen, there could be a problem with the UHU chip or associated circuit (including socket pins).

    All U10 voltages should be measured in reference to PC_GND (valid also for the measurements suggested by Henrik)

    Best regards,

    Kreutz.



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    H.O. & Kreutz,
    Thanks for the guide for working on #4 drive. I'm hoping that tomorrow will give me the necessary time & energy to take advantage of them. I had a little time this afternoon so I installed the three drives X, Y, Z. I've got the BOB hooked up, the 15vdc PS hooked up with the drives installed on their mounts & the mounts in the cabinet. I need to chase down two additional USB cables. I think I have everything on hand to wire the delay timer in for the High Power so things are going well. BTW the MAX232's I'm using are the MAX232N. I need to take a couple of pictures for here so that it'll make more sense for the other readers.
    Thanks Again, More Later
    Paul



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    Hi Paul,
    OK, MAX232N is fine, if it was the A-version the caps surounding the IC should be 0.1uF instead of 1uF like they are now but since you have the N-version you should be OK.

    Take your time and let us know what you find! Good luck!

    /Henrik.



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    Default continuing problems with drive #4

    good evening All,
    I finely got some time to check drive #4 as suggested. starting with H.O.s suggestions, on U10 pin #2 shows +9.15 pin #6 shows -8.73. Moving to Kreutz's Pin #16 shows 5.08 volts. there wasn't a response Ds4. After checking I replaced the socket that the UHU chip fits in. then as expected Ds3 the power led blinks and stays on. Ds1 now blinks and stays on unless I have the encoder cable plugged in, at which point it's out. Ds4 the ready led is on solid. it gives a little blip on resetting and stays on. Ds5 does not light at any time. I'm slowly going through all the joints in the RS-232 cable area. so far I changed capacitor C-18 to be sure one terminal had not been pulled loose in the can. I'm thinking of resoldering U-11, U-13 & U-12 next unless you guys have other suggestions............
    Paul
    BTW per Irfans suggestions I'm making up some schematics showing what I intend to do next with the mill wiring to see if you all approve & or have have suggestions for improvements



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    Hello Paul;

    Please, check U11 orientation and re-solder its pins, carefully measure voltage (+5V) between pin 1 and the +15V power supply ground terminal. Also measure the voltage (+5V) between pin 8 and PC_GND, if it does not communicate after that, please, replace U11.

    Best regards,

    Kreutz.



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    Default E-stop circuit for BOB & axis drives

    Hello,
    I've got a rough draft for the E-Stop circuit based on what I have & what little I know. the relay I have requires 12vdc and the existing E-stop uses 24vdc. Am I correct in assuming that a resistor can be inserted in the circuit to use the existing 24vdc to the 12vdc relay. Anyway, Look this over & give me some help here....... As I finish the other required circuits I'll post them
    Thanks
    Paul

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Pauls HP UHU drive project-image-jpg  


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    Default High voltage control circuit

    Hi,
    I've sketched up a quick control circuit for the 134vdc to the HP UHU drives, again I'm open to suggestions..................
    Thanks
    Paul

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Pauls HP UHU drive project-image-jpg  


  11. #31
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    Default High voltage control circuit

    Hello Again,
    After I posted the High Power I remembered that I had toyed with the Idea of getting the 12vdc control voltage from the PC when It was turned on.......
    This assumes that the PC is always turned on last. This would probably be OK.
    When the PC is powered up it will supply the USB voltage to all the HP UHU drives. the 15vdc will be powered by 120vac power as tapped off T2. So 15vdc would be available to the drives as soon as the master switch on the mill is turned on. then when the PC came up any fiddling by windows would be done when the 6 second delay has expired & the 134vdc is available to the drives.......
    Thanks
    Paul



  12. #32
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    Hi Paul,
    I'm not sure I follow your E-stop schematic so here are just a couple of general things you should concidder.

    You should never rely on the relay to energise in an E-stop condition. You should wire it so the relay is energised during normal operation and de-energises when you hit the E-stop. Perhaps that's how you have it already?

    It looks like you have drawn two connecions on each HP-UHU....That's not right.... Even if it's me reading your schematic wrong you can't connect the Fault I/O's to GND like you've done - they will ALWAYS be faulted then.

    I've attached a schematic that I think should work. As you see the relay must be a two pole relay. Also, you should concidder dropping the 130V supply to the HP-UHU's when in E-Stop. Otherwise, if a drive gets bad and you have a runaway it won't stop when you hit E-stop.

    Running a 12V relay on 24V will work by adding a resistor as you've done. To calculate what value it should be divide 12 by the rated current of the coil. If the coils is rated 55mA then 12V/0.055A=218ohm, take the closest standard value you have available, it's not critical. The resistor need to be able to handle 0.055*0.055*218=0.66W so a 2W resistor would be a good choice here.

    /Henrik.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Pauls HP UHU drive project-e-stop-schematic-jpg  


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    Paul, just follow Kreutz's circuit for E stop - scrap everything else - henriks circuit is telling the same thing as Kreutz's.

    no use going circles like me - learn from my mistakes

    ok cya



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    Default Back to work

    Hello All,
    I'm back, I have my I/O's fed the three USB cables & would have problems applying the E-stop to all drives. But thanks Irfan"s list & H.O.s advice I'll correct that. with any luck it'll rain today giving me a "free" shop day. I'm still at the point of having the three drives in & up on 5 & 15vdc. hooked up to the B.O.B. & servo power cables out. Z encoder cable is in & correct. X cables are in but need testing, the Y axis power cable is ready but the servo cable needs redone. I have both the Z & Y servo/encoder packages on the bench. the Z checks out OK but my bargain 500 line renco an't talking, guess I get to disassemble it & check the encoder & short cable to the connector, again. I picked up a package of encoders two years ago at the CNC get together. I've have mixed luck with them, some my learning curve & some that their specials that send reversed signals (Kreutz confirmed this). more as I proceed. it as time permits.
    I now have a adj. time delay relay bringing the 134vdc up after the 5 &15vdc to the drives fixing that problem.
    ONE point of note, many,many times I read of others problems that were a direct result of not pulling most if not all of the old wiring out of the control cabinet at the beginning of their conversion. READ & BELIEVE.
    THE SECOND point I'd like to share: DO NOT temporary wire things planning to do it RIGHT LATER...... this too will eat you up sooner or later.
    I now have the E-Stop circuit wiring sorted out that today should be the day it works .............. Push E-Stop button, 134vdc dropout, drives fault, putting Mach3 software into Reset. Thanks Guys, This has been a tough one for me !!!
    Paul



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    Good job Paul!
    Keep it up, take it slow and do it properly and you'll have your machine running before me. If you need assistance we're all here to help out!

    /Henrik.



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    Default correct inductor part number

    FOR EVERYONE'S INFORMATION THE CORRECT INDUCTOR PART NUMBER USED ON BOTH HP UHU DRIVES IS: PM2120-1R2M-RC



  17. #37
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    hi Paul, do show us some pictures of what you are setting up - before you fire up, I am interested in seeing what you have rigged up.

    RGDS
    IRfan



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    Unfortunately Bourns lists this part as "not recommended for new designs" and I can find no distributor in the US who stocks it. The recommended replacement is useless.


    Is this a reasonable replacement?


    Thanks,
    Keith B.



  19. #39
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    Oops....Let's try the links again.
    Bourns
    href="http://www.bourns.com/pdfs/PM1608_series.pdf"

    Possible substitute:
    href="http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=nizYLPifhMBxxa1TM4qCHw%3d%3d "

    Keith B.



  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by kabowers View Post
    Oops....Let's try the links again.
    Bourns
    href="http://www.bourns.com/pdfs/PM1608_series.pdf"

    Possible substitute:
    href="http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=nizYLPifhMBxxa1TM4qCHw%3d%3d "

    Keith B.
    No, the specs are a little more restrictive: higher Rdc, Lower Saturation current and what makes it 100% incompatible is a totally different footprint. I guess the best solution is to get the "right ones" from Paul or Irfan along with the kit.

    Best regards,

    Kreutz.



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