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Thread: Essential Items ?

  1. #1
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    Essential Items ?

    Finally come down to the wire, I've got almost everything setup and just need to push the big red button, however I have a few questions.

    I'm buying the Basic PCNC 1100 Package II




    Since it's a little tight in my garage for this machine, I'm looking into renting a space. Now I'm not really a rich guy, especially after I buy this thing. So I'm looking into a few little spaces to start out with and eventually move into something a little larger. The place I'm looking at is a 10 x 20 storage unit that allows business to operate 24 hours for only $160 a month that also includes electric.

    The problem I'm running into is, how much electric does this machine pull ?
    The space only has one outlet, the outlet runs from a main line on the ceiling, which looks like it's only made for a light bulb, but has a light bulb socket convertor that gives two outlets.



    Here's the outlet convertor that everyone there is using.

    http://www.christmaslightsetc.com/im...ocket_2tap.jpg






    What items do you think are needed with your first purchase ?

    I was looking at things like

    - Load Meter (31101)
    - Machine Oil (31386)
    - R8 Drawbar (30507) (just to have an extra one)
    - Lifting Bar (30576) (is this really needed) ?
    - TTS-R8 (30146)


  2. #2
    Registered zephyr9900's Avatar
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    twocik, section 2.1.1 of the manual says "Power required is 200 to 250 VAC, 50 or 60 Hz. Continuous current is below 15 amps, but a 20 amp breaker or slow blow fuse is recommended." You will also need 115V for the PC and other accessories.

    I had to add 230V wiring to my garage. It uses a special double circuit breaker that draws from both hot busses in the box, instead of one bus plus neutral.

    You could probably run the PC from the adapter you show.

    Randy


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    Registered 300sniper's Avatar
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    it doesn't sound like the storage is going to have the voltage or amperage you will need for the machine. it it is just lights on the circuit, the outlet in the storage is probably only 15a 120volt.

    is there a chance you can move some of your seldom used garage stuff into the storage and move the machine into the garage? in a garage, if you don't want to do permanent wiring, you should be able to install a plug on the tormach wiring and pull power off of the dryer outlet. you probably shouldn't do a load of laundry at the same time as you are running the machine though.


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    Sorry I'm not an electrician at all and most of this stuff is over my head. i do understand it a little bit, but completely. So all together I need at least 4000 watts or a 40 amp breaker ?

    I'm going to be running

    - Computer
    - Monitor
    - Coolant
    - Tormach
    - Florescent overhead light

    and other things I'll be running, but with the machine off if needed

    - 12" Chop saw
    - 3/4 hp metal bandsaw
    - Drill press


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    Chop saws can pull a lot of amps.

    In my shop I have the machine and control computer on dedicated breakers. That way if I am running the machine and doing something else that blows a breaker, the machine continues to run.

    When I first got my machine I used the stove plug inside my house and ran a 60' extension cord to the garage. It was annoying to have to unplug/plug in the stove all the time but I was renting and it allowed me to have power without installing new lines.


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    Quote Originally Posted by twocik View Post
    Sorry I'm not an electrician at all and most of this stuff is over my head. i do understand it a little bit, but completely. So all together I need at least 4000 watts or a 40 amp breaker ?

    I'm going to be running

    - Computer
    - Monitor
    - Coolant
    - Tormach
    - Florescent overhead light

    and other things I'll be running, but with the machine off if needed

    - 12" Chop saw
    - 3/4 hp metal bandsaw
    - Drill press
    the problem is going to be the storage is only going to have 110 volts to run the lights. it is also probably only a 15 amp circuit. the tormach is going to require a 220 volt, 20 amp circuit. unless you can get a storage unit directly next to the breaker panel, and the storage facility will allow you to have an electrician run the appropriate circuit to your unit, you are most likely out of luck running the machine there.

    honestly, the chop saw alone would probably trip the breaker if you loaded it up on a heavy cut.


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    I tried running mine on a 16 amp - 240V outlet when I first got it. Every now and then the breaker would trip when the spindle motor kicked in. I switched to a 20 amp outlet.

    You don't need the load meter or the lifting bar. TTS is good, machine oil you should be able to buy locally and the spare draw bar is pennies anyway.

    Phil

    Quote Originally Posted by twocik View Post


    What items do you think are needed with your first purchase ?

    I was looking at things like

    - Load Meter (31101)
    - Machine Oil (31386)
    - R8 Drawbar (30507) (just to have an extra one)
    - Lifting Bar (30576) (is this really needed) ?
    - TTS-R8 (30146)


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    The lifting bar made things easy for me.. It would not have been fun without but you could probably make something similar.


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    Quote Originally Posted by twocik View Post
    What items do you think are needed with your first purchase ?

    I was looking at things like

    - Load Meter (31101)
    - Machine Oil (31386)
    - R8 Drawbar (30507) (just to have an extra one)
    - Lifting Bar (30576) (is this really needed) ?
    - TTS-R8 (30146)
    Not sure what you need an extra draw bar for?

    I did end up using the lifting bar. Not necessary if you're lifting from below, but what I had available to lift my machine up onto it's stand was a gantry crane. So yeah.

    I'd add a vise, unless you've already got one. I'm using a cheap 6", and would vastly prefer a well-made 5".


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    Didn't need the tilting bar thing, buy Vactra Way Lube, Vactra is a cool word to say. You can't run the machine off the light socket, you will need a 20 or 30 amp dedicated circuit and a clean 120 volt circuit to run a computer and flood coolant.

    "Vactra"
    BlueFin CNC LLC
    Southern Oregon


  • #11
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    A couple of carefully placed slings and it's up.

    Three point lift, one at the lifting eye and two either side of the base (by use of a 5/8" steel bar through the front lifting holes).

    Phil

    Quote Originally Posted by compunerdy View Post
    The lifting bar made things easy for me.. It would not have been fun without but you could probably make something similar.


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    I think your list of list of essentials is correct. I bought the lifting bar and it proved very valuable in getting the Tormach up on the deluxe stand using a engine crane by myself. The lifting bar keeps the machine somewhat level whilst lifting and thus reduces the lift height and makes the placement much easier. If you have the luxury of a forklift you can probably do without that advice.

    If you plan to build your own stand I would caution you to remember to leave enough room under the stand to get your engine crane's legs under it or around it. Also be mindful how high you can lift the Tormach when deciding the stands height.

    I bought the Tormach deluxe stand, cause I couldn't build one that nice for much less $. But I have built a number of stands for other milling machines, lathes and other equipment I have. I think an ideal stand would be metal and have cross bars high enough to let you to put a engine cranes legs under it, but low enough you can slip a pallet jack (with blocks) under it and move it around your shop. You might not have a pallet jack now, but you might in the future, having bought one several years ago, I absolutely love it. It makes moving this heavy equipment around my shop a dream. The alternative would be to spend several hours taking everything down, move it and reassemble. Its not just the time saved, its the stress saved from the lifting experience.
    Last edited by mal97; 01-16-2010 at 02:51 PM.


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